TWO  WOMEN  ABROAD 


w >LVT  THEY  Saw  and  How  They  Lived 


WHILE  TRAVELLING  AMONG 


The  Semi-Civilized  People  of  Morocco,  the  Peasants  of  Italy  and 

France,  as  well  as  the  Educated  Classes  of  Spain, 

Greece,  and  Other  Countries 


BY 

Adelaide  S.  Hall 


"Pleasure  is  a  shadow,  wealth  is  vanity,  and  power  a 
pageant;  but  knowledge  is  ecstatic  in  enjoyment,  perennial  in 
frame,  unlimited  in  space,  and  infinite  in  duration." 

De  Witt  Clinton 


.MONARCH  BOOK  COMPANY 

(Formerly  L.  P.  Miller  &  Co.) 

CHICAGO,  ILL.;  PHILADELPHI.\,  PA 

1897 


A  duplicate  of  tins  book  can  be  pro- 
cured iliroiiKli  our  authorized  agent 
of  your  town,  or  by  writing  the 

PUBLISHKRS. 

MONARCH    HOOK  CO  . 
Chicago.  III.    -      Philadkli-hia,  Pa. 

Address  the  )iouse  nearest  yon. 
Sent  Post-paid  ON  Rkcript  of  Pkick. 

Chthb'nding     -        -       -        -     $2.75 
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CoPVRic.iiT — iSqy, 

Bv  LINCOLN   W.  WALTER, 


All  /*/>///«  /^fscrvi'd. 


The  Engravings  in  this  volume  were 
made  from  original  photographs,  and 
are  specially  protected  by  Copy- 
right, and  notice  is  hereby  given 
that  any  person,  or  persons,  guilty  of 
reproducing,  or  infringing  the  Copy- 
right in  ;uiy  way.  will  be  dealt  with 
according  to  law. 


To  THE  Companion  of  My  Voyage, 
MRS.   L.  P.  MILLER, 

THIS  SIMPLE  STORY  OF  TRAVEL  IS  DEDICATED, 

WITH    APPRECIATION-    OF    HHH   MANY    PRACTICAL    SUGOESTIONS 
ANU    DliliP    INTEREST    IN    ITS    PREPARATION 


MME.  LEBRUN  AND  DAUGHTER,  LUUVRE 


PUBLISHERS'    PREFACE 


^:^. 


E  realize  that  in  introducing  to  the  pubhc  "Two 
\\'omen  Abroad,"  with  the  expectation  of  holding 
the  reader's  interest  from  beginning  to  end,  we 
have  undertaken  no  easy  task.  The  dangers, 
discomforts  and  expense  of  travel  have  been  so 
lessened  that  thousands  of  Americans  now  cross  the 
ocean  in  palatial  steamers  to  see  for  themselves 
what  was  once  attainable  only  through  the  medium 
of  books.  The  columns  of  the  daily  press  report  cur- 
rent events  from  every  part  of  the  globe  almost  as  soon  as  they 
occur.  Therefore,  to  publish  a  book  describing  the  scenes  and 
incidents  of  a  six  months'  tour  in  foreign  lands  seems  almost 
absurd. 

But,  there  are  tourists  and  tourists;  among  them,  hosts  of 
women  travelling  singh',  in  pairs  and  in  parties;  some,  in  search  of 
health,   others,  for  study,    but  more,   for  pleasure. 

Another  class  go  abroad  because  it  is  considered  the  proper 
thing  to  do,  though  they  gain  little  knowledge,  and,  often,  not 
much  real  pleasure. 

Again,  one  with  an  eye  cjuick  to  discern  and  retain  the  beau- 
tiful, with  an  ear  ready  to  catch  the  harmonies  of  Nature  and  with 
power  to  interpret  her  varying  moods,  may  in  a  short  time  gather 
material  for  several  books,  the  outgrowth  of  a  tour  replete  with 
profit  and  delight. 

Such  a  traveller  is  the  author  of  "Two  Women  Abroad,  " 
Mrs.  Herman  J.  Hall,  who  in  company  with  Mrs.  L.  P.  iNIiller  visited 
Europe  last  summer.  Mrs.  Hall  is  connected  with  several  prom- 
inent women's    clubs  in    Chicago,    where    she    has   been    President, 

vii 


viii  PUBL/S/fRRS'  PREFACE 

lor  a  number  of  years,  of  one  of  the  largest  Art  clubs  in  the 
United  States.  In  lier  book  she  has  utilized  the  extensive  knowl- 
edge of  ]-)ersons  and  places  gained  by  years  of  study,  and  vi\ificd 
b}-  her  recent  journey. 

The  record  of  the  trip  is  unique.  Dry  details  are  eliminated, 
while  all  that  is  bright,  interesting  and  humorous  stands  out  in 
bold   relief. 

The  pen-pictures  are  artistically  wrought  and  present  in  a 
natural  and  charming  manner  the  customs  of  foreign  peoples. 

The  illustrations  are  an  aid  to  the  appreciation  of  wonderful 
scener}-,  famous  ruins,  venerable  cathedrals,  stately  palaces  and 
the  masterpieces  of  painting  and  sculpture. 

We  place  this  book  in  the  hands  of  our  readers,  with  the 
hope  that  one  reading  will  stimulate  a  desire  for  a  second  perusal 
which   will   prove  even  more   enjoyable  than   the  first. 

The  Publishers. 


INTRODUCTION 

FTER  a  visit  to  foreign  countries,  one  realizes  more  than 

ever  before  the  beaut}'  and  grandeur  of  America.      Neither 

the  snow-clad  Alps  nor  the  Sierra  Ne\-adas  rising  from 


an    azure    sea    and    the    smiling    plains  of    sunny  Spain 
surpass  the  grim   Rock_v  Mountains  or  the   varied  scenery 
of  the  Appalachians. 

Yellowstone  Park,  the  canons  of  the  western  states,  Niagara 
and  the  Great  Lakes  are  unique  among  the  wonders  of  Nature. 
The  Hudson  and  the  Mississippi  need  only  historic  ruins  and  lordly 
castles  to  rival   the   ''blue   Danube"  and  the  picturesque  Rhine. 

Not  only  is  our  country  rich  in  Nature's  gifts,  but  it  rejoices 
in  men  of  genius.  In  Literature  and  Science,  Americans  have 
won  lasting  laurels.  Longfellow,  Hawthorne  and  Mrs.  Stowe  are 
well  known  in  distant  lands,  and  the  eyes  of  the  world  are  fixed 
upon  Edison,    whose   discoveries  in  electricity  seem    unending. 

Although  our  Music  and  Art  are  still  in  their  infancy,  we  have 
talented  artists  in  both  fields,  whose  achievements  are  a  promise 
of  future  triumphs. 

The  appreciation  of  Art  is  daily  increasing  and  the  study  of 
Art  is  now  included  in  the  curriculum  of  nearly  every  important 
school  in  the  United  States.  Galleries  and  Schools  of  Design 
flourish  in  the  principal  cities,  developing  the  taste  and  talent  of 
the  people. 

Nevertheless,  we  must  ever  acknowledge  our  indebtedness  to  the 

ix 


INTR  OD  UCTl  ON  x 

Old  World.  The  Present  is,  in  great  measure,  the  disciple  of  the 
Past,  and  only  by  travel  can  we  learn  to  estimate,  justly,  the 
mature  civilization  of  Europe.  The  knowkxlge  thus  gained  is  one 
of  the  chief  elements  of  culture.  But  travel  is  not  possible  to  all; 
many  must  rely  upon  sources  of  information,  more  or  less  indirect. 

I^eproductions  of  famous  works  of  art  have  a  distinct  educa- 
tional \alue.  Therefore,  this  story  of  a  summer's  wanderings  is 
embellished  with  many  fine  illustrations  carefully  selected  by  my 
companicju. 

The    historical    references    and  other  data  are   based   upon  t' 
best    authorities,   and    in  a  general  way  the    book    may  serve  a^ 
guide  to    prospective    tourists.      Familiar   foreign    names    are    use 
but  those  occurring    less  frequcntlv  are  translated    into    English 
explained  in  footnotes. 

It    the    benefits    received,  and    the    delight   experienced    dur- 
the  journey  described  and  illustrated  in  this  work  are  shared,  e\ 
in  a  small    degree,    by   my  readers,    I    shall  feel    more   than  repaid 
f(ir  nu'  efforts. 

A.    S.    Hall. 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER    I 

CIUCACiO 

PAGE 

An  old  friend — route — letter  of  credit —  charming  widow — wardroln' — alco- 
hol  lamp — guides — fees — "  Bon   voyage!  " 17 

CHAPTER    11 

ON  BOARD  THP;  KAISER 

Meeting  friends  —  flowers — farewells — the  captain — service — steerage  pas- 
sengers— trumpeter — ship's  engines — stokers — concert — Azores — volca- 
no— birthday  cake 20 

CHAPTER    HI 

GIBRALTAR 

Gibraltar  —  fortifications  —  Union  Jack — cannon — caves — Turks — American 
consul — the  Alameda — donkeys  and  monkeys — Spanish  pesetas  and 
English  ha'  pennies 23 

CHAPTER    IV 

TANGIER 

A  Moorish  chief — pirate-like  boatmen — Tangier — customs — native  women — 
fakirs — Shing — hasheesh — visit  to  the  Governor — harem — prisons — the 
Calif  a — Belgian  Consulate —  Berbers — caravan — Mohammedans — mar- 
ket place — camels — snake   charmers — beggars 27 

CHAPTER    V 

CADIZ 

Embarkation  at  Tangier — carried  by  natives--extortion — rough  sea — Cadiz 
in  the  distance — a  chivalrous  people — cathedral — Murillo — St.  P^ancis — 
bullfight — Spanish  railway  train — primitive  ploughing — ignorance  and 
poverty 39 

CHAPTER    VI 

SEVILLE 

Seville — pnisiou — the  Giralda — cathedral — mantilla  and  rose — the  Alca- 
zar— Pedro  the  Cruel — House  of  Pilate — Holy  week — national  dance — 
gypsy  wagons — Italica — Roman  amphitheater — lions  and  martyrs 49 


COXTEXTS 
CHAPTER    VII 

CORDOVA 


PAGE 


"Castles  in  Spain"  —  Cordova — "El  Gran  Capitan  "  —  mosque  —  splen- 
did marbles — mosaics — perfumed  lamps — baths  ot  kings — flowers  and 
goldfish — bridge — peasants — cathedral  bells — Spanish  soldiers —  judg- 
ment of  Spain 5^ 

CHAPTER   VHI 

GRANADA 

Eagle's  nest — Spanish  grandee — American  tourists — Senor  Carmona — the 
Alhambra  —  Gate  of  Justice — fountains — stalactites — marble  baths — 
Court  of  the  Lions — assassination — a  Holy  of  Holies — Boabdil — the 
Conquest  —  summer  palace  —  enchanted  garden — watch-tower — Span- 
ish kitchen — woman's  rights — tombs  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella — g_\ps\- 
caves — Columbus — Washington   Irving 60 

CHAPTER    IX 

NAPLES  AND  THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

The  bay — the  city — welcome — moonlight  on  the  sea — Bismarck's  birth- 
day—  transparent  ice  cream  —  Sardinia — quaint  streets — Easter — mu- 
seum—  cheese,  chestnuts  and  garlic — wayside  shrines  —  Pompeii — 
petrified  food  —  the  King's  Guard  —  opera — stubborn  mule  —  jolly 
party — Vesuvius — chasm  of  sulphur  —  explosions  — devilfish — cameos 
and  corals 77 

CHAPTER    X 

FROM    CAPRI  TO    ISKINDISI 

Fishing  towns — women  porters — blue  waters — lemon  groves — starry-eyed 
girls — roasting  coffee — artist's  studio — a  wooden  leg — Turkish  corsair — 
flowers — Blue  Grotto  —  corals — Roman  tyrant — wines  and  fish — cliff 
dwellers — dwarfs — w'istaria — inlaid  wood — tarantella — gay  costumes — 
sea  bathing — Boston  girls — spinning — mountain  roads — picturesque 
Amalfi — natural  cathedral — St.  Andrew  —  Salerno — Apennine  range — 
Brindisi — Virgil 94 

C1I.\1'T1:K'    XI 

THE   IONIAN    ISIJCS 

The  Achille — fellow  passengers — Corfu — drachmas — St.  Spiridion — a  peas- 
ant woman — (jreek  churches — royal  palace — papyrus — Mouse  Island — 
Ulysses — "Pan  is  deadl" — Sappho's  leap — Antony  and  Cleopatra — 
Turks  and  .Vrnnnians 103 


CONTENTS  xiii 

CHAPTER    XII 

PATKAS    TO    ATHENS 

PAGE 

The  Professor  and  the  Doctor — cakes  and  marmalade — Acro-Corinth — St. 
Paul — Mt.  Parnassus — Oracle  of  Delphi — navel  stone — sacred  fire — 
canal — Nero's  plans — Pentelic   marble — Acropolis — Pericles io8 

CHAPTER   XIII 

ATHENS  I 

Athena  and  Poseidon — torchlight  procession — coffee  and  masticha — public 
buildings — Palace  of  Ilion — seaside  resort — regatta — Crown  Prince — 
Parthenon — Erechtheum — a  concert — education — the  Stadium — Queen 
Olga  —  crowning  of  the  victors — Marathon  race — agriculture — Greek 
church  —  beads — funeral  monuments — Antigone — tinker  and  tailor — 
household  shrine — palace  and  princess — Hymettus  honey — St.  Irene — 
Theseum — Plato — Eleusis — cobblers — Mars  Hill — prison  of  Socrates..    112 

CHAPTER    XIV 

OLYMPIA   TO    ROME 

Lord  Byron — Arcadian  valley — Olympia — Temple  of  Zeus — ivory  and  gold 
— Pelops  —  Olympian  games  — gymnasium  —  wrestlers  —  the  matchless 
Hermes — archaeologists — shepherds — washing  linen — Greek  bag — fam- 
il}'  moving  —  hospitality  —  baroness  —  quarantine — Tarentum — oysters 
and  fish — beautiful  villa — a  joke — drafting  soldiers — palace  at  Caserta 
— lapis  lazuli  and  alabaster — a  looking-glass — Capua — amphitheater — 
Caesar 143 

CHAPTER    XV 

ROME 

The  eternal  city — St.  Peter's — queer  devotions — American  sculptor  and  his 
bride — Vatican — Swiss  guards— galleries  and  gardens — Leo  XIII. — 
Michael  Angelo — "  Prince  of  Painters" — Beatrice  Cenci — Roman  Eo- 
rum — Colosseum — Arch  of  Constantine — Pauline  Borghese — Erench 
Academy — a  model  —  King  and  Queen — churches — picturesque  peas- 
ants— a  dish  of  brains  —  the  Colonna  palace — Palatine  Hill — Romulus 
and  Remus — Appian  Way — Claudian  aqueduct — catacombs — St.  Ce- 
cilia— Keats  and  Shelley — Pantheon — Parliament — flower  girls — Ro- 
man pansies i  j6 

CHAPTER    XVI 

PISA    AND    FLORENCE 

Leaning  Tower  —  Galileo — Savonarola — burned  at  the  stake — Giotto's 
Tower — the  Baptistery — Ghiberti's  Gates — the  Uffizi — Pitti  Palace — 
— Benvenuto  Cellini — rare  gardens  —  crickets — carnival  of  flowers — 
"Singing  Boys" — a   yellow  rose — Protestant   cemetery — Dante 211 


xiv  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER    X\II 

THE    RIVIERA   AND    MILAN 

PAGE 

Carrara  marble — gray,  desolate  cliffs — roses  and  roses — Italian  farmhouses 
and  French  cottages — Nice — Francis  I.  and  Charles  \. — chateau  at  Eze 
— Monaco — Monte  Carlo — beautiful  gardens — paintings  and  statuary 
—  gambling  rooms — perfect  decorum — illuminations  — serpent  of  vice — 
Genoa — Christopher  Columbus — old  palaces — "sea  without  fish" — 
Campo  Santo — irrigation — Leonardo  da  Vinci — Milan  cathedral — an 
emerald  cross — roval  palace — Napoleon — La  Scala — "The  Last  Sup- 
per"— letters  of  Tasso  and  Galileo 232 

CHAPTER    XVlll 

VENICE 

The  Grand  Canal — quiet — the  Piazza — St.  Mark's — pigeons — Winged  Lion 
and  St.  Theodore — Palace  of  the  Doges — Giants'  Staircase — "Marriage 
of  St.  Catherine" — "Venetia" — Paola  Veronese  and  liis  art — Tintor- 
etto— Hall  of  the  Great  Council — Bridge  of  Sighs — prison — a  marble 
bride — Rialto — Ghetto — boiling  crabs — a  Venetian  funeral — Venetian 
glass  —  mosaics — the  Brownings  —  the  Lido — Armenian  monaster}' — 
superstitions — tlie  moonlight 246 

CHAPTER    XIX 

SWISS  CITIES  AND  MUNICH 

Romeo  and  Juliet — Como — povert}' — simpletons — the  St.  Gotthard — pil- 
grims— tunnel — William  Tell — Lucerne — the  Lion — glacier  mills — cha- 
mois -music — Lake  of  the  Four  Forest  Cantons — the  Rigi — Briinig  Pass 
— Swiss  housewives — a  storm  —  Eden  —  the  Jungfrau — old  chalets — 
town  pump — mountain  sprites — a  friendh'  visit — Thun — feudal  castle — 

armor — locked  beds — Jura  mountains — baptism Swiss   beds — Berne 

— the  Nydeck  bridge — grotesque  fountains — St.  Bernard  dogs — mam- 
moth cask — grand  organ — sun  spots — lake  dwellers — Munich — street 
sweepers — Peter  Paul  Rubens — Bavarian  cavalry — royal  retreat — a  mad 
king 268 

CHAPTER    XX 

VIENNA  AND  BUD.\PEST 

The  language — German  food — ridiculous  adventure — weird  chant — abbeys 
— magnificent  cit\' — Emperor  and  King — invitations — Ring  Strasse — 
Votive  Church — Maria  Theresa  —  jewelled  bouquet — the  Treasury — 
Rothschild's  luxuries  —  liomc  of  Marie  Antoinette — "Beautiful  Blue 
I)aiirtd)e  " — 1 1  ungarian  peasants — thousanilth  :inniversar\' — gorgeous  cos- 
tumes— golden  coaches — ancient  crown — Magvar  streets — underground 
railway — Os  Budavara — the  Czardas — gii/yds  and  F.isi-  Kaff,-c — tourna- 
ment—  I'ranz  Josepli — a  princess — contest  of   noblemen — products  ....    298 


CONTEXTS  XV 

CHAPTER    XXI 

DRESDEN  AND  CARLSBAD 

PAGE 

Natural  fortress — valley  of  the  Elbe — the  Strauss  orchestra — Zwinger  gal- 
lery— the  Sistine  Madonna — Green  Vaults — Luther's  goblet — Trump- 
eter of  Sackingen  —  stronghold — lawbreakers — ^  Dresden  china — ram- 
parts— Saxon  dames — Queen  Carola — Carlsbad — the  Spriidel — a  ball — 
pretty  Russian — foreign  dancing — Bohemian  costumes 326 

CHAPTER    XXII 

NUREMBERG  AND  THE  BLACK  FOREST 

Moat  and  towers — dormer  windows — stone  cutters — Albrecht  Diirer — Brat- 
wurst-Glocklein — German  delicacies — victim  of  war — heart  of  a  forest 
— firs  —  elves  and  fairies  —  Alte  Schloss  —  romantic  glen — Undine — 
Castle   Eberstein — glorious  views — legends — nunnery 342 

CHAPTER    XXI II 

THE  RHINE,   COLOGNE,  AND  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE 

Ma^'ence — an  adventure — Mouse  Tower — Lorelei  rocks — ^"Bingen  on  the 
Rhine"  —  dragon's  Jair — Roland — Hildegard — ^broken  hearts  —  Rhine 
wines — Cologne  cathedral  —  chocolate  factor}' — Aix — three  treaties — 
Charlemagne's  tomb 361 

CHAPTER    XXIV 

THE  HAGUE,   AMSTERDAM,   AND  DELFT 

From  mountains  to  marsh  lands — quarries — d^kes  and  canals — sunset — 
homely  architecture  —  Rembrandt  —  Mesdag — Scheveningen — -Amster- 
dam— Ryks  Museum — parrots — mammoth  locks — Wilhelnrina — Delft — • 
William  the  Silent — pottery — Rotterdam — Dutch  cooks 373 

CHAPTER    XXV 

BRUSSELS   AND   WATERLOO 

Foreign  currency — celebrated  ball — battle  of  Quatre  Bras — Palace  of  Jus- 
tice— eccentric  artist — Brussels  lace — Waterloo — the  Lion — La  Haie 
Sainte — La  Belle  Alliance  —  two  armies  —  Hougomont  —  Maitland's 
Guards — "All  is  lost!" — naming  the  battle — downfall  of  Napoleon 388 

CHAPTER    XXVI 

PARIS 

The  tourist's  Mecca— city  of  caf^s — Parisian  women — -Eiffel  Tower — the 
Luxembourg — modern  art — Pantheon  and  Sorbonne — evening  rides — 
Americans  and  French — Moulin  Rouge — Parisian  dishes — Raffaelli — 
opera  — the  market — the  national  fete — Li  Hung  Chang — Champs  Ely- 


x\i  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

sdes — the  Louvre— art  schools — Gobelin  tapestries — Versailles — a  roj'al 
dairy  —  Marie  Antoinette  —  Napoleon's  tomb — a  bluebottle  fly — Fon- 
tainebleau — Charles  Sprague  Pearce — American  artists — shops — work- 
ing classes 400 

CHAPTER    XXVII 

MONT  ST.   MICHEL,  GRANVILLE,    AND  THE  CHANNEL  ISLANDS 

Norman  peasants  —  farms — a  scare — coaching — Benedictine  abbey — Gaul- 
tier's  leap — cloisters — charnel  house — eaten  by  rats — Mnie.  Poulard — the 
tide — Granville — fishermen's  homes — Jersey — jewelry — British  soldiers 
— Alderney  cattle — Guernsey — the  Needles — Cowes — a  royal  wedding. .    448 

CHAPTER    XXVIII 

LONDON 

Anglomania  —  Roman  foundations  —  population — signs  — characteristics — 
Westminster  Abbe}' — Poets'  Corner — Chapel  of  Henry  VII. — the  Tower 
— the  warders — crown  jewels — Lyceum  Theater — British  Museum — 
South  Kensington  Museum — -Royal  Academ)- — St.  Paul's — Zoological 
Gardens — a  wise  elephant — Parliament  Buildings — House  of  Lords — 
Westminster  Hall — Regent  Street — Piccadilly — soda  water — Hyde  Park 
— Rotten  Row — St.  James's  Palace — -the  Ragged  Schools — Hampton 
Court  —  famous  pictures  —  mammoth  grapevine — Twickenham — Pope 
—  Richmond — maids  of  honor — Kew — a  sail  on  the  Thames — Chelsea 
— East  Indian  dinner  —  ■■Old  Curiosit\'  Shop'  —  Whitechapel  —  good 
Samaritans 455 

CHAPTER   XXIX 

CASTLES    AND  COLLEGES 

Gray's  Elegy — Eton — Windsor — St.  George's  Chapel — Frogmore — O.xford 
— students  —  Christ  Church — Gladstone  —  St.  Frideswide's  shrine  — 
Broad  Walk  —  Queen's  —  ancient  customs  —  Magdalen  —  martjrs  — 
"Bloody  Mary" — Blenheim — Duchess  of  Marlborough  —  Warwick — 
— "Last  of  the  Barons" — relics  of  a  giant — peacocks — Warwick  vase 
— country  roads — coaching  parties — cyclers — Kenilworth — Queen  Eliz- 
abeth— Leicester — revelry — rural  wedding — St.  Mary's — "a  grain  of 
salt" — paradise  on  earth 484 

chapti:r  XXX 

H  O  M  !■:  W  A  K 1 )   B  O  U  N  D ! 

English  railways  —  Liverpool  —  two  orphans — "Silence"  —  Queen  Vic- 
toria— on  board  the  Umbria — two  noblemen — the  "  Ancient  and  Hon- 
orable " — musings — home 506 


■LCyi^i^^yT'^ — 


TWO   WOMEN  ABROAD 


CHAPTER  I 


Chicago,    February  25,    1806. 

^»"  Y  Dearest  Jane: — How  I  wish  I  could  trauslate  vou  to 

^      T  /  Et        Chicago,  seat  you  in  my  cozy  armcliair  and    ]iour   into 

•-..,    ,  r  i   Hi       your    friendly    ear    my    precious    news;   for,    Providence 

^         and   winds  permitting,  I  shall  sail   for    Europe  hv  the 

/J    good  ship  Kaiser  Wilhelm,  March  7. 

You  remember  when  we  were  children  together  how 
we  chatted  about  the  European  trip  we  intcndetl  to  take 
when  we  were  eighteen.  You  remember,  also,  how  Uncle 
B.  dampened  your  enthusiasm  by  croaking  the  old  Spanish  proverb, 
"Heaven  gives  nuts  to  those  who  have  no  teeth  to  crack  them."  I 
paid  little  attention  to  such  slurs  upon  our  youth  and  ignorance  then, 
but  now,  that  I  am  many  summers  beyond  eighteen,  I  feel  better 
prepared  to  understand  and  enjoy  such  a  tour. 

Of  course,  you  are  brimming  over  with  curiosity  as  to  the 
conditions  and  plans  of  the  journey,    so  here  they  are: 

In  traveling,  the  next  best  thing  to  a  letter  of  credit  is  an 
agreeable  companion,  and  I  considered  myself  fortunate  indeed  when 
Mrs.  M.,  a  young  and  charming  widow,  decided  to  accompany 
me.  She  possesses  health,  good  temper  and,  as  my  German 
music  teacher  used  to  say,  "Schnap."  These  qualities,  united  to 
those  of  an  old  maid  who  is  a  l)it  nervous,  cranky  and  very  am- 
bitious, will  certainly  make  us  a  unicjue  pair.  And,  if  the  usual  law 
of  contrasts  holds  good,  we  shall  manage  to  get  on  comfortal)lv.  The 
principal  object  of  the  trip  is  to  see  some  of  the  most  important 
art  treasures  of  Europe,  so  we  contemplate  covering  a  good  deal 
of  ground. 

As  you  know  my  repertoire  of  languages    includes    Spanish  as 

17 


i8 


Tiro    U'O.UF.X  ABROAD 


well  as  French,  so  we  have  decided  on  the  southern  route,  going 
from  ("lihraltar  to  Spain;  from  there,  via  Italy,  to  Greece;  thence  to 
liungary,  and  home  by  way  of  France  and  England,  making  short 
stops  in  countries  which  lie  along  the  route. 

Our  time  limit  is  to  be  six  months  and  our  funds  one  thousand 

dollars  each.  I  hear  you 
say  "Impossible!"  for,  in 
America,  it  would  cost 
twice  that  sum  to  travel 
almost  continuously,  for 
the  same  length  of  time, 
but  we  are  determined  to 
try,  and  feel  confident 
that  we  shall  succeed. 

In     the    first    place, 
though  traveling  first  class 
^^^^^^^^^^^^  by  water,   we  shall    take 

ji^i  ■  ^^Hr^^^^^^^^t  ^^^^^^^^^  second  or  third  class  tick- 
ets on  land,  shall  engage 
a  modest  room,  with  two 
beds,  at  the  native  hotels, 
and  not  patronize  those 
especially  arranged  to 
capture  the  unwary  tour- 
ist. Our  luncheons  and 
dinners  can  be  procured 
at  restaurants  wherever 
we  happen  to  be  at  meal  time,  thus  avoiding  the  loss  of  time  in- 
curred in  returninij,'  to  the  hotel  before  finishing  the  sicht-seeiny; 
planned  lor  the  day.  As  to  breakfasts,  directly  opposite  me, 
reposing  on  a  chair,  is  a  box  containing  an  alcohol  lamp,  accom- 
panied 1))-  a  miniature  frying-pan  for  eggs,  two  spoons,  knives  and 
a  tea-steeper. 

By  prowling  about  the  markets  and  bakeshops  we  shall  not 
only  be  able  to  study  the  various  types  of  people,  but  also  secure 
fresh  rolls,    jiats  of  butter,    fruit  and   eggs. 

As  to  wardrobe,    one    stout,    serviceable"    suit  and    steamer  cap, 


OLD    WORLD   CASTLE 


ril'O    Jl'OMEN  ABROAD 


19 


a  black  silk  i^own,  a  fancy  waist  and  small  bonnet  for  evening 
wear,  black  underclothing  (including  China  silk  night  robe),  two 
pairs  of  stout  shoes,    a    heavy  and   a    light  wrap  will    be  sufficient. 

The  outfit  can  be  stowed  in  two  leather-bound  telescopes  and, 
with  small  bags  for  toilet  articles  and  necessary  medicines,  will 
constitute  our  entire  baggage.  This  can  be  carried  with  us  in 
cabs  and  stowed  in  the  racks  of  railway  carriages,  thus  sa\ing 
expense,  for  one  pays  by  weight  for  trunks  and  chests  in  foreign 
countries. 

We  shall  employ  guides  only  when  absolutely  necessary,  and 
shall  not  present  servants  with  larger  fees  than  the  natives  give. 
By  strictl}-  adhering  to  these  principles,  the  problem  of  expense 
will  be  solved  in  part. 

I  intend  to  keep  a  journal  and,  if  you  will  promise  not  to  be 
bored,  will  send  a  weekly  budget.  You  shall  thus  determine 
whether  we  illustrate  the  old  saying  of  Robbie  Burns:  "The  best 
laid  .schemes  o'  mice  an'  men  gang  aft  agley, "  or  whether  just 
like  two  women  we  utterly  rout  old  notions  and  prove  to  the 
world  that  we  can  plan  and  execute  to  the  letter. 

So,  au  rcvoir,  ma  cherie!  When  next  you  receive  a  line  from 
me  it  will  come  from  Gibraltar's  rock-bound  coast;  and  now  I 
seem  to  hear  your  voice  floating  across  the  miles  that  stretch  be- 
tween us  in  a  fervent   "Bon  Voyage!" 


CHAPTER  II 

ON  BOARD  THE   KAISER  WILHELM 

■^-^-       \III'^    morninj^-    of    the   seventh,    we   reached   the    docks   of 
-    ■<~fc)\  tlie    North    German    Lloyd    Steamship    Company   and 
Jj^    f7^    found    the    great    ship    throbbing  and    straining   at    the 
^,S  1^/     cables  which   bound  lier  to  land. 

/ip^i  \\  Upon  entering  our  stateroom  the  mingled  fragrance 

'"  r,/     of    roses,    lilies   and    carnations    greeted    us.       Boutjuets 

were    heaped   up    on   dressing  table  and    berths,    to  say 

nothing  of  a  score  of  letters  and  telegrams  containing  last  messages 

and  all  sorts  of  advice. 

At  tlic  end  of  a  delightful  hour  spent  on  deck  with  friends 
from  New  ^'ork  the  signal  was  given  for  visitors  to  go  ashore, 
'i'hen  came  tlic  farewells,  some  pathetic,  some  amusing,  especially 
that  of  a  pair  of  lovers,  who  had  been  sitting  very  close  together 
behind  om;  of  the  smokestacks.  They  threw  kisses  to  each  other 
franticallv,  until  the  spectators  were  in  convulsions  of  laughter. 
The  passengers  with  their  bouquets  crowded  to  the  rail,  and  the 
ship  must  have  appeared  to  those  on  land  like  a  huge  flower  garden. 

Soon  we  were  under  way,  handkerchiefs  began  to  wave  and 
last  words  were  exchanged.  As  tlu>  shores  of  t)ur  native  land 
receded  and  the  friends  were  lost  to  siglit,  many  a  hitherto  happy 
face  grew  sober,  and  now  and  then  we  would   hear  a  suppressed  sob. 

The  Kaiser  is  a  finch'  ajipointed  shi]i  recently  built.  The 
service  is  excellent  and  we  are  enjoxiiig  the  vo)'age,  despite  the 
rough  weather  that  somt^times  makes  our  heads  swim  and  the 
dishes  tumble  about.  In  fact,  we  generally  eat  in  fear  and  trembling 
lest  the  contents  of  soup  plate  or  tumbler  should  be  precipitated 
into  our  lajis.  The  Captain,  big,  burly,  white-haired  and  red-faced, 
has  a    kindlv  word   for  everybodv  on   board. 

Now  and   then    for  recreation   we   li'an  over  the  rail  of    the  aft 

20 


ox   A'O.IA'/)     /■///■:    K.USF.R    WII.III-'.IM 


21 


upper  (U'ck  and  watcli  the  steeras;;c  passengers  eating  their  meals 
or  phning  games.  One  d;i\'  I  saw  a  grdup  rnjM\  ing  kcno,  and  the 
caller  drew  with  a  grim\-  paw  the  nuinlicrs  iroin  a  bag  that  lnoked 
as  if  it  had  seen   \  ears  of  service. 

There  is  a  very  old  man  and  wciman  who  sit  apart  trom  the 
others.  He  is  devoted  to  her,  and  it  is  interesting,  though  pitiful, 
to  see  him  untie  an  old  soiled  rag  and  take  out  some  chunks  of 
bread,    and  a  dried  up  sausage,   and  with  his    battered    clasj)    knife 


STEAiVlSHiP    KAISEK    /,  .LHEL.M 


slice  off  portions  to  share  with  his  toothless  wife.  The  children, 
though  very  cunning,  are  just  like  the  little  vagabonds  that  wander 
around  the  streets  at  home,  playing  on  an  accordion  or  a  tambourine. 

We  are  awakened  each  morning  bv  the  trumpeter,  who  goes 
up  and  down  the  deck  playing  a  little  German  air  about  "be 
joyous  while  you  may,"  rather  depressing  and  incongruous  when 
one  is  suffering  from  mal  dc  mcr.''' 

One  evening  the  party  at  our  table  were  invited  by  the  chief 
engineer  to  visit  the  furnace  rooms  of  the  steamer.  We  were 
nearly  an    hour    inspecting    the    three   engines,    twent^'-six  furnaces 

*Seasickness. 


22  ON  BOARD    THE   KAISER    WILIIELM 

and  inammotli  steel  screw.  Fifty-tour  stokers  work  in  relays,  four 
liiHirs  on  (lul\'  and  ei<iht  ofi.  The  sight  of  these  men  bathed  in 
perspiration,  toiling,  half  clad,  in  the  frightful  heat,  suggested 
Dante's  Inferno. 

Good  music  is  one  of  the  features  of  the  German  Lloyd  serv- 
ice, and  the  concerts  given  during  the  dinner  hour  and  on  deck 
during  the  evening  are  very  enjoyable. 

We  sighted  the  Azores  on  the  twelfth  of  March,  and  regretted 
that  we  could  not  stop  there.  Pico,  which  lies  to  the  southeast  of 
Fayal,  was  quite  a  picture.  From  its  center  rises  a  volcano,  so 
wrapped  in  clouds  that  often  only  the  summit  is  visible.  The 
ship  .sailed  (juite  close  to  the  shore  and  the  houses  could  be  seen 
distinctly,  their  red  roofs  clustered  at  the  base  of  the  mountain. 
The  city  of  Angra,  capital  of  the  group,  is  delightfully  situated  on 
the  island  of  Terceira.  The  Governor's  house,  built  in  Moorish 
style,  made  a  strong  point  in   the  landscape. 

Flocks  of  mountain  sheep  run  over  the  steep  sides  of  the 
islands,  like  flies  on  a  wall.  The  people  are  said  to  be  thrifty  and 
li.ipp}-,  though  their  only  means  of  communication  with  the  world 
is  a  steamer  from   Lisbon  once  a  month. 

We  have  made  some  very  pleasant  acquaintances  among  our 
fellow  passengers,  and  are  sorry  that  only  two  of  them  are  going 
to  stop  at  Gibraltar. 

Yesterday  was  the  l)irthday  of  a  German  lady  who  sits  at 
our  table  and  is  so  jolly  that  she  is  a  general  favorite.  She  was 
surprised  at  dinner  when  a  fine  cake,  with  her  name  wrought  in 
the  frosting,  was  placed  before  her,  "with  the  compliments  of  the 
Captain."  She  immediately  cut  a  jiiecc  for  each  one  of  us,  and 
sent  a  generous  slice  to  the  commander.  Accompanied  by  her 
\vitt\-  r<'marks,  the  act  caused  a  good  deal  of  merriment. 

We  are  due  at  Gibraltar  to-morrow,  and  are  looking  forward  to 
our  first  view  of  the  rock. 


CHAPTER  III 

GIBRALTAR 

IBRALTAR  is  before  us!  It  looks  like  a  great  lion  crouch- 
ing in  readiness  for  a  spring.  The  sky  is  a  celestial 
blue,  the  air  is  balmy,  and  with  Spain's  rugged  coast  on 
one  side  and  the  low-lying  hills  of  Africa  on  the  other 
we  feel  that  we  are  indeed  approaching  foreign  shores  on 
the  bosom  of  strange  waters. 

Gibraltar  has  been  an  English  fortress  since  1704, 
when  it  was  captured  during  the  war  of  the  Spanish  succession  by 
Sir  George  Rooke.  Persistent  efforts  have  been  made  by  the  Span- 
ish and  French  to  wrest  from  the  aliens  this  key  to  the  Mediter- 
ranean and  the  East,  but  the  Union  Jack  still  floats  from  the  pin- 
nacle of  the  stronghold  twelve  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  Gib- 
raltar is  a  natural  fortress.  On  one  side  the  sheer  wall  of  the  cliff 
forms  an  impregnable  defense  and  on  the  other  is  a  network  of 
batteries.  Galleries  wide  enough  for  a  carriage  to  pass  are  cut  in 
the  solid  rock,  and  the  black  muzzles  of  cannon  project  through  the 
portholes.  The  summit  is  crowned  by  a  gun  having  a  range  of  five 
miles,  and  an  electric  connection  makes  it  possible  to  aim  and  fire 
the  gun  from  a  station  below. 

Geologically,  the  rock  is  very  curious.  The  lower  strata  are 
gray  limestone  and  the  upper  striped  with  pale  bluish  shales,* 
while  shells  are  found  fully  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the 
present  sea  level.  As  is  not  uncommon  in  limestone  formations, 
there  are  many  passages  and  caves,  the  most  noted  being  St. 
iMichael's  Cave,  where  the  central  hall  is  fifty  feet  high  and  hung 
with  magnificent  stalactites.  At  the  foot  of  the  rock  lies  the  town, 
with  a  population  of  about  24,000. 

Slat}'  structure. 

23 


24 


GIBRALTAR 


The  Kaiser  cast  anchor  in  the  bay,  for  there  are  -no  docks 
for  ocean  steamers,  and  was  at  once  surroundetl  h\  craft  tliat  had 
been  awaitint;  our  approach.  CHmbing  down  the  hanging;'  ladder 
of  the  steamer,  we  boarded  a  launch  and  sped  away  to  the  land- 
ing. There  was  a  perfect  babel  of  sound.  Porters,  cabmen,  beg- 
gars, ell)owed  one  another  and  shouted  out  the  merits  of  the 
different  hotels  or  conveyances,  or  implored  charity.  Fortunately 
we  had  made  an  arrangement  with  the  agent  of  the  Royal  Hotel 
before  leaving  the  steamer;  so  after  passing  the  custom-house  in- 
spection   (an     easy  matter  in   Gibraltar,    which    is  a    free   port),    we 


started  on  our  long  walk  through  the  town,  preceded  by  the  agent 
and  a  donkey  cart  with  the  telescopes  and  followed  by  two  fat 
little   urcliins  carr)'ing  the  handbags. 

We  almost  fancied  ourselves  in  Cairo  Street  at  tlic  World's 
Fair,  so  motley  was  the  crew  we  met,  so  quaint  the  narrow 
way,  with  its  rough  pavement  and  sidewalks  scarce  wide  enough 
for  two  people  to  walk  abreast.  On  either  side  were  shops  hung 
willi  rugs,  drajieries  and  curios,  until  it  seemed  as  if  the  entire 
stock  of  each  was  tumbling  out  of  the  doors  and  windows.  Down 
the  center  of  the  thoroughfare  jogged  little  donkeys  bearing  panniers 
filled  with  huit  or  vegetables,  their  plump  sides  belabored  by  bare- 
legged Moors. 


GIBRALTAR  25 

A  couple  of  English  soldiers  curbed  their  horses  to  chat  with 
a  pretty  Spanish  girl,  a  lace  mantilla  about  her  rounded  tlnoat, 
the  point  fastened  coquettishly  to  the  crown  of  her  head. 

In  one  open  doorway  an  Egyptian  sat  making  hligree*  silver 
ornaments,  in  another  a  Turk  surrounded  by  cjuecr  bits  of  pottery 
and  brass — presenting  cjuite  an  Oriental  picture. 

Reaching  the  hotel  after  this  interesting  but  rather  warm  tramp 
we  were  shown  into  a  cool,  quiet  room,  with  whitewashed  walls 
and  plain  but  comfortable  furniture. 

Luncheon  was  followed  Ijy  a  drive,  the  coachman  being  a  red- 
headed son  of  the  Emerald  Isle.  The  way  that  little  cart  rattled 
up  and  down  the  roughly  paved  streets  was  exhilarating;  now  tak- 
ing us  to  the  bank  to  draw  both  English  and  Spanish  money  on  our 
letters  of  credit,  then  to  the  steamer  office  to  have  the  stop-over 
tickets  recorded. 

After  the  business  was  attended  to,  we  called  upon  the  American 
Consul,  Mr.  Sprague,  to  whom  we  presented  our  greatest  treasure, 
a  personal  letter  from  tlie  Secretary  of  State,  introducing  us  to 
American  ministers  and  consuls   abroad. 

We  had  a  pleasant  call  and  were  given  the  information  we 
sought.  We  wished  to  know  if  it  were  safe  to  travel  in  Spain  at 
that  time,  having  been  told  that  the  Spaniards  keenly  resented  the 
sympathy  expressed  by  Americans  in  general  with  Cubans  in  their 
rebellion  against  the  mother  country.  He  assured  us  that  the 
animosity,  so  much  talked  of  in  our  daily  papers,  was  largely  im- 
aginary; that  no  matter  how  deep  the  resentment  Spaniards  might 
feel  toward  the  men  of  our  country,  they  were  always  courteous 
and  gallant  to  ladies,  and  that  we  might  go  anywhere  in  Spain 
with  more  real  safety  than  at  home. 

Mr.  Sprague  has  held  his  office  for  forty-two  years,  succeeding 
his  father.  He  is  a  fine  looking  old  gentleman  with  foreign  man- 
ners, and  lives  in  a  Spanish  house  with  a  court  in  the  center  filled 
with  tall  palms. 

The  Alameda  f  is  a  perfect  jungle  of  trees,  shrubs  and  blossom- 

*  Ornamental  work  in  gold  or   silver  wire. 
"{"Public  gardens. 


26  GIBRALTAR 

ing  i^lants.  Tailless  monkeys  come  down  from  their  haunts  on  the 
bare  rocks  above  to  rob  tlie  fruit  trees,  but  their  number  has  been 
greatly  reduced  of  late  years. 

Although  there  are  no  important  works  of  art  in  Tangier,  the 
journey  is  so  short  that  we  intend  to  go  there  for  a  few  days  and 
thus  catch  a  glimpse  of  African  life. 

Mrs.  M.  is  sitting  near  an  open  window,  while  I  write,  studying 
the  foreign  coins.  There  is  the  Spanish  peseta,  which  is  the  silver 
coin  in  general  use;  it  is  worth  about  nineteen  cents,  in  our  money. 
This  is  divided  into  one  hundred  centimos,  the  usual  pieces  con- 
taining five  or  ten  centimos  each.  The  difficult  part  of  it  all  is, 
that  there  are  coins  of  nearly  the  same  size,  but  differing  in  value, 
and,  covered  with  strange  devices.  Add  to  this  the  fact  that  the 
people  here  use  both  English  and  Spanish  currenc}-,  and  do  you 
wonder  that  we  are  nearly  money  mad?  In  my  dreams  I  see  these 
dreadful  pesetas  sitting  in  rows  on  the  footboard  of  my  bed.  They 
seem  to  wink  at  the  English  ha'  pennies  and  then  leer  at  me  with 
a  we'll-cheat-you-vet  air. 


( 


CHAPTER   IV 

TANGIER 

E  had  a  delightful  trip,  a  matter  of  three  hours,  to  this 

the  chief  seaport  of  Morocco.     The  straits  were  like 

'^      a  millpond  and  the  passengers  interesting,  especially 

1^^       a  fine  looking  elderly    Moor,   who  was  a    model    of 

repose  and  dignity.      He  could  speak  a  little  Spanish 

and  we  discovered  that  he  was  the  Governor  of  the 


■w—^  \  ^    Ri'f  district  in  Morocco. 

-■-■^--'^  Xhe  city    of    Tangier    lies    on  the    shores  of    a 

beautiful  bay  and  rises  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheater. 
The  outline  of  its  low  white  houses  is  broken  by  the  slender  minaret 
of  a  Mohammedan  mosque. 

Several  dilapidated  cannon  placed  upon  a  wall,  backed  by  a 
shabby  building,  constitute  the  defenses.  An  old-fashioned  gun 
boat,  once  a  Scotch  merchantman,  composes  the  Sultan's  navy. 

As  we  were  leaning  against  the  railing  of  the  steamer,  waiting 
for  one  of  the  craft  of  Messrs.  Cook  &  Co.,  we  were  surprised  by 
the  sight  of  fullv  a  dozen  boats,  each  containing  from  eight  to  ten 
natives,  pulling  as  madly  for  our  steamer  as  if  for  a  goal  at  a  race 
course.  When  they  reached  the  ship  they  swarmed  over  the  sides, 
with  yells  that  sounded  to  our  unaccustomed  ears  like  war  whoops, 
and  began  to  gather  up  the  baggage  and  throw  it  into  the  small 
boats.  Soon  they  were  squabbling  among  themselves  over  their 
spoils,  which  they  snatched  from  one  another,  and  it  was  nearly  half 
an  hour  before  our  possessions  were  all  together  in  the  launch  be- 
longing to  our  agent  and  we  were  seated  beside  them. 

On  entering  the  town  of  Tangier,  one  passes  under  the  Bab 
al  Marsa,*  where  two  solemn-looking  Moors,  sitting  cross-legged 
on  the  ground,  keep  watch  and  guard.  They  are  the  only  cus- 
tom-house   officers    and    glanced  with    apparent   amusement  at  the 


*Gate  of  the  harbor.  27 


28 


TAXGIER 


contents  of  our  bags,  whicli  we  were  obliged  to  open  before  them, 
but  they  soon  ahowed  us  to  proceed. 

As  we  went  u))  through  the  crooked  streets  pavt-d  with  cobble 
stones  our  American  features  and  costumes  attracted  many  curious 
glances  from  the  native  women  who  stood  in  the  open  doorways. 
They  were  enveloped  in  long,  white  garments  of  a  material  like 
Turkisli  toweling,  one  end  being  brought  across  the  lower  portion 
of  the  face,  leaving  only  the  eyes  exposed. 

A  disagreeable  odor  permeates  everything  in  Tangier,  even  to 


HARBOR    OF    TANGIER 

the  very  bread  we  eat;  and  if  that  is  the  bread,  which  we  saw  carted 
uncoNcrcd  through  the  streets  we  wonder  that  we  have  the  courage 
to  eat  it  at  all. 

Horrible  looking  fakirs,  covered  with  ulcers,  dragged  themselves 
across  the  path  to  incite  our  sympathies.  Beggars  thrust  their 
filthy  hands  before  our  faces,  until  we  were  glad  to  stop  with  others 
of  the  jiartv  from  the  Kaiser,  at  the  nearest  hotel,  instead  of  walk- 
ing a  half  mile  further  for  the  sake  of  finding  a  less  expensive  one. 
However,  if  it  is  necessary,  wc  can  live  on  bread  and  salt  in  Spain 
and  thus  average  our  expenses. 


«. 


LOW    LIFE  IN   TANGIER 


30  TANGIER 

We  have  a  pleasant  room  at  tlie  Continental  Hotel  overlooking 
the  bay,  and  as  I  go  to  the  window  now  thoughts  of  home  and 
loved  ones  bring  tears  to  my  eyes.  I  can  see  the  lights  along  the 
curves  of  the  moonlit  shore,  the  rugged  outlines  of  Spain  in  the 
distance  giving  strength  to  the  picture.  The  water  laps  softly 
against  the  beach,  the  stillness  now  and  then  broken  bv  the 
"Wa  ha  galiba  ilia  Allah,"*  the  Mussulman  war  crv,  in  the  same 
mellow  tones  that  we  used  to  hear  on  the  Midway. 

Our  first  dinner  in  Africa  was  "good  but  not  very  fillin', "  as 
a  little  boy  once  remarked.  It  was  served  in  the  usual  tabic 
d'lioti\  style,  in  numerous  courses,  by  native  servants,  their  black 
skins  looking  like  polished  ebony  against  the  snowy  whiteness  of 
linen  gowns  and  turbans. 

One  of  the  courses  was  a  cake  fried  in  oil.  It  resembled  a 
plain  fritter  and  is  called  shiyig  in  Arabic.  It  is  eaten  without 
sauce  of  any  kind  and  was  not  at  all  palatable  to  us.  Many  stalls 
in  the  market  place  are  hung  with  iron  kettles  where  natives  pre- 
pare these  cakes  for  the  caravans,  just  as  itinerant  bakers  sell 
waffles  or  pancakes  from  their  wagons;  but  the  sight  of  a  hideous 
Moor  mixing  the  batter  with  his  fingers  and  then  tossing  it  from 
hand  to  hand  prior  to  its  final  fling  into  the  sizzling  oil  is  not 
stimulating  to  the  American  appetite,  though  the  camel  drivers 
devour  them   with  a  gusto  born  of  the  desert. 

The  first  evening  our  party  attended  a  native  concert  that 
was  not  at  all  bad.  The  musicians  sat  upon  the  floor  in  rows  antl 
between  numbers  smoked  tiny  pipes  filled  with  fias/iccsli,  a  kind 
of  opium.  It  is  obtained  by  boiling  the  leaves  and  flowers  of  a 
native  hemp  with  a  little  butter. 

The  following  morning  we  each  mounted  a  diminutive  donkey, 
and,  accompanied  by  a  tall  dignified-looking  guide  by  the  name  of 
Mesmudi,    we   proceeded  to  do  the  town. 

My  animal  was  led  by  a  boy  whose  entire  English  vocabularv 
was  comjirised  in  the  words  "all  right,"  spoken  interrogatively  each 
time  I  gave  a  half  suppressed  shriek,  which  was  frequent,  as  the 
saddle  persisted    in    turning    somersaults.     Tangier   streets    run    up 


*There  is  no  conqueror  but  God. 
|Public  dining  table  in  a  hotel. 


TAXCIER 


31 


and  down  steep  hills  and  are  so  narrow  that  if  one  meets  a  donkey 
with  a  load  it  is  an  anxious  moment. 

We  stopped  first  at  the  Governor's  palace  and  found  His  Wor- 
ship at  the  end  of  a  lonj^-  hall.  lie  was  seated  cross-legged  on  a 
rug  placed  on  a 
dais.  Along  the 
sides  of  the  apart- 
ment were  i^ows 
of  saddles,  some 
of  fine  leather  and 
elaborately  em- 
bossed. These 
articles,  it  is  said, 
constitute  a  large 
part  of  his  wealth. 
We  shook  hands 
with  him  twice, 
which  is  the  cor- 
rect thing  to  do, 
and  then  passed 
out  to  the  open 
square,  where  the 
Califa,  *  who  is  the 
Vice-Go  ver  nor, 
sat  holding  court. 

This  man  de- 
cides irrevocably 
all  common  ques- 
tions of  law.  The 
plaintiff  and  defendant  appear  before  him  and  plead  their  own  cases. 
There  is  no  jurv.  The  Califa  gives  his  decision  and  sends  one  to 
prison,  permitting  the  other  to  depart.  Knotty  questions  are  sub- 
mitted to  the  Governor.  The  guide  told  us  that  it  was  a  mere 
matter  of  money,  and  that  the  judge  was  always  open  to  bribery. 

The  Governor  of  small  villages  is  called  a  Sheik,  and  we  met 


UNMARRIED    WOMAN,  TANGIER 


•"Judge. 


32  TANGIER 

one  that  day,  as  fine  a  speciman  of  Moorish  nobihty  as  one  would 
be  hkely  to  see,    tearing  down  the  street  on  a  splendid  horse. 

In  the  Governor's  harem  we  were  presented  to  one  of  his  wives, 
a  son  and  a  daughter.  They  received  us  in  a  large  court  open  to 
the  sky  and  surrounded  by  arcades.  From  this  court,  ]->a\-ed  with 
beautiful  tiles,  open  small  apartments  which  serve  as  bed  chambers 
and  are  furnished  only  with  mattresses  placed  upon  the  floor  and 
covered  with  white  sheets  and  pillows.  All  around  the  edge  of  the 
rug  which  lav  in  the  center  of  the  dining-room  are  similar  divans 
for  the  inmates  to  lounge  upon  during  their  repasts.  The  dishes 
are  cracked  and  of  common  ware.  About  the  difierent  rooms  were 
open  baskets  containing  the  ktis-kns,  which  looked  like  cold  plum 
pudding. 

The  wife,  who  is  about  forty  years  of  age,  still  shows  traces 
of  beauty,  while  the  soft  black  eyes  and  pale  olive  cheeks  of  the 
daughter  are  most  attractive. 

The  people  of  Tangier  are  so  poor,  that  even  the  officials  are 
unable  to  pn)\ide  many  comforts  for  their  women.  As  I  knew  this, 
I  ventured  to  ask  the  daughter  if  she  would  sell  me  the  hoop 
hanging  from  one  of  her  ears.  After  a  good  deal  of  bargaining,  in 
which  even  the  servants  took  part,  I  became  the  proud  owner  of 
a  rude  silver  circle  large  enough  for  a  bracelet  and  strung  with  an 
Oriental  pearl  and  a  purple  glass  bead.  It  was  handmade  and  a 
good  specimen  of   Moorish  handicraft. 

From  the  harem  it  was  but  a  step  to  the  prison,  where  we 
looked  through  small  openings  in  the  stone  wall  into  the  room 
where  the  poor  wretches,  who  have  chanced  to  incur  the  displeasure 
of  the  Califa,  were  herded  like  cattle.  Some  were  chained  in  pairs, 
and  all  looked  the  picture  of  despair.  They  are  allowed  to  weave 
baskets,   which  tourists  are  importuned  tt)  purchase. 

()ur  (linike)s  were  very  tired  b_\-  the  time  thev  had  borne  us 
to  the  residence  of  the  Belgian  Consul,  so  we  left  them  in  charge 
ot  the  guides  and  took  a  stroll  through  the  beautiful  gardens  about 
the  house,  one  of  the  sights  of  Tangier.  There  were  walks  lined 
willi  palms,  cacti,  bananas  and  a  tree  called  in  Spanish  ca?i/- 
panita,  covered  with  white  llowers,  resembling  somewhat  an  Easter 
lily.      The  head  gardener,    who  had  visited   America,    presented    us 


TANGIER 


33 


witli  ;i  bouquet  of  roses  and  <;craniums.      The  latter  often  j^row  to 
a  height  of  six  feet  and  form  hcd^jes  along  the  country  roads. 

There  was  a  fine  view  of  Ml.  Washmgton  a  short  distance  from 
the  gardens,  and  of  the  white  road  leading  from  the  town,  wliicli 
winds    along     to-  , 

ward  the  desert 
and  disappears 
behind  the  hills. 

About  four  in 
the  afternoon  we 
went  to  the  Amer- 
ican Consulate, 
where  we  met  Dr. 
Barclay  and  his 
wife,  who  are  ver}' 
delightful.  The 
Doctor  showed  us 
many  documents 
and  papers  be- 
longing to  his 
great-grandfather, 
who  was  the  first 
consul  to  Tangier 
and  who  was  ap- 
pointed by  George 
Washington.  His 
p  a  p  e  r  s  w  e  r  e 
signed  by  both 
Washington  and 
Jefferson.  A  curious  old  desk  used  by  the  former  was  one  of  the 
treasures  of  the  house.  These  good  people  urged  us  to  i)rolong 
our  visit  and  promised  to  take  us  about  the  city  and  to  a  rece))tion, 
but  we  were  unable  to  accept. 

Returning  to  the  hotel  by  way  of  the  market  place,  we  saw  a 
caravan  which  had  just  arrived  from  across  the  desert:  in  all  there 
were  about  twent\'  camels.  The  tents  had  been  pitched  tor  the 
night  and  some  of    the    people    were    preparing    to    retire;    for  the 

3 


HIGH    CASTE    MOORISH    WOMAN 


34  TANGIER 

morrow  was  the  great  Sokko  or  market  day,  and  they  were  weary 
from  the  long  journey. 

Groups  of  women  were  sitting  upon  the  ground  with  flat,  round 
cakes  of  bread  piled  up  m  front  of  them,  their  mantles  over  their 
heads.  The  men  monopolize  the  vegetable  and  flower  trade,  and 
hold  up  their  nosegays  of  violets  and  roses,  quite  unconscious  of 
tlie  incongruity  of  it  all.  The  children  are  thick  as  flies,  all  pretty, 
jikimi)  and  bubbling  over  with  fun.  If  it  were  not  for  the  loatli- 
some  beggars  that  creep  and  crawl  like  slimy  things,  or  lie  at  full 
length  on  the  ground,  moaning  and  whining,  it  would  be  quite  a 
gay  scene. 

The  Bab  al  Sok*  terminates  the  long  street  that  begins  at  the 
Bab  al  Alarsa,  and  is  crossed  by  others  that  wind  in  and  out  in 
the  most  perplexing  and  Bostonian  fashion  and,  what  is  worse,  are 
nameless. 

Coming  over  on  the  boat  from  Gibraltar,  I  had  a  talk  with  an 
English  missionary  doctor  who  li\-es  at  Tetuan,  one  of  the  interior 
cities.  He  said  cruelty  toward  the  women  is  common,  many  wives 
being  beaten  to  death.  A  Moor  can  be  divorced  by  simply  paying 
the  equivalent  of  two  dollars  to  the  Sheik,  or  Governor,  and  can 
marry  as  soon  afterward  as  he  pleases.  The  people  are  very  super- 
stitious and  are  firm  believers  in  the  Evil  Eye. 

The  Berbers  were  chief  among  the  aborigines  of  Morocco,  and 
the  Kabyles  are  the  best  branch  of  that  race. 

Grant  Allen,  in  one  of  his  works,  has  given  a  vivid  picture  of 
the  daily  life  of  this  industrious  tribe  of  the  mountains,  who  live 
in  houses  of  stone  or  clay,  own  their  lands  and  cultivate  figs,  olives 
and  tobacco,  besides  making  a  fair  quality  of  wine.  They  are  a 
great  contrast  to  the  shiftless,  wandering  Arabs  of  the  plains,  who  are 
content   ti)  dwell   in  tents  and  snatcli  ;i   lixing  anywhere  and  anyhow. 

Art  of  a  crude  sort  exists  among  tlie  Kabyles.  They  have 
ev(>n  produced  etchings  and  engravings  and  attained  no  mean  skill 
in   wood-carving. 

The  heads  ot  the  males  are  shorn  with  the  exception  of  one 
tuft  ()(   hair,    wliich   is  braided  and    hangs  down  on  one  side  like  a 

*Gate  of   the  market. 


TANGIER 


35 


queue.      Bv  this    lock    they  lielievc    the    angel    of    death   will    take 
ihem  up  to  heaven. 

The  people  of  Morocco  seem  to  be  of  three  classes:  The 
Berbers  or  Mountaineers,  the  Arabs,  who  inhabit  the  lowlands,  and 
the  Jews.      The  word  Moor  is  used  to  designate  in  general  the  city 


A    LiK'AVAN,    TANGiER 

born.  All  are  white  at  birth  that  have  no  mixture  of  negro  blood 
in  their  veins,  and  it  is  to  the  air  and  the  sunshine  that  they  owe 
their  swarthy  skins. 

A  wild  berry  grows  in  the  neighborhood  of  Fez*  from  which 
is  extracted  a  peculiar  red  dye.  This  is  used  in  coloring  the  leather 
which  we  call  red  morocco  and  also  the  tasseled  cap  worn  by  the 
unmarried  men  of  the  Mohammedan  faith  and  usually  termed  a 
fez.     For  many  years  the  secret  of  making  this  dye  was  possessed 

*  An   interior  cit\'  of   Morocco. 


36 


TANGIER 


exclusively  by  the  Moors,  but  now  it  is  sliared  by  the  French  and 
the  Ciermans. 

Tanj^ier,  whose  population  is  about  20,000,  carries  on  a  Hourish- 
inj,'  trade  with  Gibraltar,  and  exports  leather,  coarse  wool  and  i^ot- 
tery.  The  mackerel  fishing  is  fairly  good  in  the  bay.  The  herb- 
ao-e  is  poor,  and  there  are  almost  no  trees  in  or  near  the  city,  and 
the  productive  farm  lands  are  far  from  the  coast.  Mules  and 
donkeys  feed  on  thistles  and  the  few  horses  on  a  green  stufif  called 
rhihicli,  according  to  our  guide's  spelling. 

On  the  following  day  we  arose  early  and  wended  our  way  to 
the  Sok  or  market  to  enjoy  the  sights.  Here,  was  a  group  of 
Moors  squatting  in  the  dirt  selling  pottery  of  the  rudest  kind  for 
kitchen   use,  their  wares  spread  out  upon   the  ground,  there,  another 

with  baas  of  bar- 


ley or  vegetables 
that  had  been 
brtiught  by  car- 
avan the  night  be- 
fore, as  well  as 
camels  with  their 
n  u  r  s  i  n  g  )•  o  u  n  g, 
and  women  bear- 
ing pitchers  of 
goats'  milk. 

We  asked  the 
guide  if  the  wo- 
m  e  n  w  e  n  t  t  o 
church  often,  as 
we  had  just  passed 
the  mosque,  where 
miMi  onl\'  were  fil- 
ing in  and  out,  and 
he  looked  at  us  in 
surprise.  ' '  Whv, 
^o  church,  women 
"Then  you  don't 
and  said:     "Oh,  no, 


SNAKE    CHARMER,   TANGIER 


no,"  he  said  in  his  cpiaint  English,  "  Women  no 
no  Mohannncdan,  onlv  men  go  jiray. "  1  said: 
belie\X'  women   have  souls."     And   he  l.iughec 


PRINCIPAL  STREET  AND   MOSQUE 


38 


TANGIER 


women  no  have  them."  Christians  are  never  permitted  to  enter 
their  places  of  worship  and  so  we  could  not  see  the  interior,  much 
to  our  re,t,'ret.  I  have  heard  since  that  the  mosque  at  Fez  includes 
a  chapel  for  the  gentler  sex. 

After  having  witnessed  the  antics  of  a  snake  charmer,  who 
was  sitting  upon  the  ground  with  a  bag  of  reptiles  before  him,  and 
who,  for  the  consideration  of  a  few  pennies,  would  put  them  through 
a  number  of  tricks,  we  hurried  back  to  the  Continental  to  pack 
up.  Early  to-morrow  we  shall  take  the  steamer  for  Cadiz — a  city 
on  the  west  coast  of   Spain. 


CHAPTER   V 


CADIZ 


^4   of 


HEN,  raising  our  dizzy  heads  from  the  pillow  on  that 
memorable  ' '  to-morrow,  "  we  looked  through  the  saloon 
windows  of  the  steamer  and  saw  Cadiz  in  the  dis- 
tance, we  felt  like  lost  souls  that  had  been  in  Purga- 
tory and  now  wandering  in  Hades,  could  catch  afar 
off  a  glimpse  of  Paradise. 

On  coming  down  to  the  qua}'  at  Tangier,  to 
take  the  boat  for  the  above  celestial  cit\',  we  observed 
a  blue  flag  floating  conspicuously  from  a  building  near 
the  water.  This,  we  were  informed,  meant  a  high  sea,  and  conse- 
quenth'  double  tariff"  to  the  steamer.  Imagine  our  dismay  when, 
upon  reaching  the  edge  of  the  landing,  we  found  several  brawny 
natives  knee  deep  in  the  water,  with  arms  outstretched  to  receive 
and  bear  us  to  the  small  boats  about  twenty  feet  away.  They 
grabbed  us  as  if  we  were  bags  of  meal,  and  over  their  shoulders  we 
went  and  were  lugged  to  the  boats  and  dumped  in.  But  that  was 
a  mere  bagatelle  to  the  ride  which  followed.  How  the  boat  tossed 
on  that  awful  sea!  now  rising  to  the  very  crest  of  a  wave,  moun- 
tain high,  then  engulfed  in  a  green  abyss. 

When  near  the  steamer  we  were  compelled  to  literally  empty 
our  pocketbooks  by  the  pirate-like  Moors,  each  in  turn  demanding 
a  peseta,  besides  the  double  tariff.  We  dared  not  refuse,  and  the 
only  other  passengers  in  our  l)oat,  a  party  of  Germans  among  whom 
were  three  men  apparently  endowed  with  average  mental  and  phys- 
ical powers,  did  not  offer  the  slightest  resistance.  Nevertheless, 
the  deck  of  the  Joaquin  Pielago  was  finally  reached  and  we  were 
minus  only  a  silk  umbrella,  belonging  to  my  companion,  which  had 
sought  the  l)riny  depths. 

39 


40 


CADIZ 


It  \i)U  ever  trv  to  climb  up  the  swinging  stairway  of  a  steamer 
from  a  n)\vf)oat,  while  tlie  latter  is  tossing  on  tremendous  waves, 
with  half  a  dozen  other  craft  manned  b_v  black  devils  trying  to 
push  it  awa)'  and  embark  their  passengers  before  you,  you  will 
realize,  and  not  until  then,  what  we  did  that  dreadful  day.  After 
getting    under  way,   we    attempted  to   compose    ourselves,    but  that 


was  impossijjle.  We  were  at  once  attacked  by  seasickness  and 
were  so  ill  that  we  crawled  downstairs  into  the  small  saloon,  out 
of  \\hirli  opened  a  room  with  a  narrow  cushioned  bench  along 
its  sides.  By  gestures  I  inquired  of  a  man,  evidently  a  steward, 
if  we  could  lie  down  there.  He  nodded,  and  l)rought  us  pillows 
at  once.  The  lurching  of  the  ship  threw  me  with  the  greatest 
\iolenre  to  the  floor  three  times,  when  I  gave  up  in  despair,  and 
lay  thert,'  for  the  rest  of  the  seven  long  hours  before  we  reached 
Cadiz.  I  thought  of  the  man  who,  in  the  first  hour  of  suffering  with 
this  particular  malady,  was  afraid  he  was  going  to  die  and  the  second, 
was  alarmed  lor  tear  \\v  would  not.  I  know  I  tasted  the  boneset  tea 
Mother    gave    me    twenty    years    ago.      In    spite  of    all,    I    actually 


42  CADIZ 

lau.!;!u'd  when  Mrs.  M.  remarked  in  a  stifled  voice  that  if  a  cara\-an 
came  along  going  to  Chicago,  she  would  take  it.  When  you  see  a 
real  caravan  you  will  appreciate  the  humor  in  the  remark. 

Such  looking  creatures  as  we  were  on  reaching  port,  with  our 
eyes  protruding  and  faces  swollen, — but  we  gathered  our  belongings 
together  as  best  we  could  and  descended  into  the  landing-boat, 
manned  this  time  bv  men,  untutored  but  chivalrous.  They  assisted 
us  to  reach  the  custom-house,  where  the  Superintendent,  noticing 
my  pallor,  ushered  me  into  his  private  office,  while'  my  companion 
heroically  attended  to  the  baggage  alone.  Then  engaging  a  cab 
for  us,  he  gave  the  driver  the  name  of  the  Hotel  de  France,  where  we 
found  excellent  accommodations,  and  after  a  good  night's  rest  we 
felt  as  well  as  ever. 

The  pride  of  Cadiz  is  her  cathedral  called  La  Nueva*  (1720- 
1832),  an  irregular  jiile,  with  the  bronze  monument  of  the  bishop, 
who  was  instrumental  in  completing  the  interior,  placed  in  the  plazaf 
directly  in  front  of  the  entrance.  Connected  with  this  cathedral 
are  one  hundred  and  fiftv  priests,  headed,  at  present,  by  Bishop 
Calvo.  The  interior  of  the  building  is  well  proportioned.  The 
high  altar,  which  was  presented  by  Isabella  II.,  is  lavishly  decorated 
with  silver  and  gold.  It  is  placed  directly  under  the  dome  and 
is  bathed  in  a  soft  heliotrope  light  produced  b)-  the  blending  of 
the  purple  and  red  used  in  the  windows  of  the  clear-stor)'.  \ 

Another  point  of  interest  is  the  old  Capuchin  Convent  (now 
occupied  only  by  custodians),  where  is  treasured  the  "Marriage  of 
Saint  Catherine,"  the  last  picture  of  Murillo,  the  master  of  religious 
painting  in  Spain.  He  was  at  work  upon  this  canvas  in  1682  when 
h(;  fell  from  the  scaffolding  and  received  fatal  injuries.  It  repre- 
sents the  \'irgin  holding  the  infant  Jesus,  who  is  placing  a  ring  upon 
the  finger  of  the  beautiful  and  devout  St.  Catherine,  who  kneels 
before  him.  During  Alurillo's  lifetime  the  strictest  laws  controlled 
the  work  of  artists  in  Spain.  In  accordance  with  these  laws  the 
feet  of  his  Madonnas  were  never  visible  and  the  prescribed  colors, 

*  The  New. 

f  S(]UMrc'. 

|An  upper  story  rising   clear  abm-c  llu-  ailjoinini,'  parts  of   a  liuiiiliiiL;.  some- 
times written  clcre  story. 


CADIZ  43 

blue  and  white,  tor  the  mantle  and  ch'aperies  were  always  emjiloyed. 
His  flesh  tints  are  delightfully  warm  and  soft,  eliciting  the  remark 
from  one  critic,  that: — "Against  the  dark  gray  background  his 
faces  looked  as  if  painted  in  blood  and  milk."  INIurillo  can  be 
studied  best  in  the  galler\-  at  Seville,  where,  we  are  told,  his  three 
distinct  styles  are  represented.  A  picture  of  St.  Francis,  executed 
in  Murillo's  best  manner,  hangs  on  a  side-wail  of  the  same  room 
and  made  a  very  deep  impression  upon  m_\'  mind, — it  approached 
so  nearlv  the  perfection  of  painting. 

St.  Francis,  born  at  Assisi,  Italy,  in  11S2,  was  the  founder  of 
the  Franciscan  order.  At  the  age  of  twenty-five  he  became  a  monk, 
leading  a  life  of  the  utmost  poverty  and  purity.  One  day  at  his 
devotions  near  Alt.  Averno,  he  prayed  that  he  might  have  visible 
proof  ot  the  love  of  Christ  b\-  being  permitted  to  bear  some  mark 
of  his  mortal  sufiering;  in  this  ecstasy  of  prayer  it  is  said  that  he 
had  a  vision  of  Glory,  and  immediately  the  s/ii^iimfa  or  wounds  of 
the  nails  appeared  upon  his  hands  and  feet.  The  fact  that  these 
marks  were  actually  lound  upon  his  body  leads  us  to  remember  that 
similar  phenomena  have  been  jiroduced,  so  it  is  claimed,  by  phy- 
sicians who  exercised  certain  influences  upon  hysterical  patients  in 
the  hospitals  of  France. 

The  picture  mentioned  above  shows  the  monk  at  prayer;  the 
form  of  the  Crucified  One  faintly  outlined  in  the  shadows  of  the  cell; 
the  face  of  the  saint  upturned  with  the  most  touching  expression 
of  love  mingled  with  sweet  humility;  while  a  divine  light  radiates 
from  the  vision  and  envelops  the  figure  of  the  suppliant. 

As  we  had  expressed  a  desire,  when  leaving  the  hotel,  to  visit 
the  Plaza  de  Toros,  or  bull  ring,  our  guide  conducted  us  from  the 
convent  across  a  great  square  to  a  circular  building,  and,  after  ar- 
ranging the  fee  with  a  man  in  charge,  gained  us  admittance.  When 
we  entered  the  arena,  inclosed  by  tiers  of  seats  ranged  one  above 
the  other,  we  were  impressed  by  its  size.  A  grand  box  is  placed 
on  one  side  for  the  President  of  the  festival  and  directly  opposite, 
one  for  the  owners  of  the  animals.  To  the  right  is  the  entrance 
for  bulls,  to  the  left,  for  horses.  Our  guide  informed  us  that  the 
bulls  were  brought  to  the  stalls  in  groups  of  six  the  night  jirevious 
to    the    fight,    were    not    fed,    and    that,    from    that    time    on,    the 


44 


CADIZ 


stalls  were  kept  perfectly    dark,   so    that,  when  the  animals  rushed 
forth  into  the  bright  sunlis^ht,  after  twenty-four  hours  of  fasting,  they 

would  be  more  ferocious 
than  ever.  The  cost  of 
each  group  of  bulls  is 
about  two  thousand  dol- 
lars, and  the  owner  furn- 
ishes forty  horses;  gener- 
ally, worthless  creatures. 
If  the  bulls  prove  very 
active  and  the  sujijilv  of 
horses  be  insufficient, 
others  must  be  procured 
at  once,  and,  if  necessary, 
taken  from  the  carriages 
near  by.  Their  sufferings 
are  often  very  great,  for, 
when  the  bull  only  suc- 
ceeds in  inflicting  a  gash 
in  their  sides,  it  is  sewed 
up  and  they  are  sent 
again  into  the  arena  to 
meet  a  worse,  or  shall 
we  say  a  more  merciful, 
fate  in  death. 

There  are  three  sets 
of  men  in  the  ring.  First,  the  Picadores,  who  wear  broad-brimmed 
hats,  and,  with  legs  incased  in  leather  and  iron,  sit  upon  their 
horses  at  the  entrance  to  the  arena,  and  attract  the  attention  of 
the  Inill  as  he  rushes  in.  They  carry  a /zVt?  or  short  spear,  toward 
oil  violent  attacks;  they  are  subject  to  many  hairbreadth  escapes. 
Next  conic  the  Ijanderilleros,  who  take  greater  risks  than  the  Pica- 
dores. Their  part  in  this  brutal  sport  is  to  launch  darts,  decorated 
with  long  streamers,  at  the  shoulders  of  the  Inill,  thus  increasing 
his  rage.  Just  aljove  the  tips  of  these  darts  are  fastened  torpedoes, 
which  e\plo(l('  when  striking  the  flesh,  making  the  tortured  creature 
bound  into  the  air.      A  clever  Banderillero  will  sometimes  sit   in  a 


;fir:  -..H     BAMIlEf-;  lleko 


DRESSED  FOR  THE   BULL   FIGHT 


46  CADIZ 

chair,  and,  awaiting  the  attack  of  the  beast,  fix  his  darts,  one  in 
each  shoulder,  and  shp  aside  just  in  time  to  escape  the  lowered 
horns  which  demolish  the  chair. 

The  most  important  actor,  and  the  last  to  appear  upon  the 
scene,  is  the  Toreador  costumed  in  the  richest  of  satin  embroid- 
ered in  gold  or  silver.  With  his  cape  over  his  left  arm  and  sword 
in  hand  he  walks  toward  the  President's  box.  There  he  halts,  and, 
flinging  his  cape  upon  the  ground,  swears  to  perform  his  dutv. 
After  receiving  the  order  from  the  President  to  kill  the  bull,  he 
generally  advances  into  the  center  of  the  arena,  and  by  waving  his  cape 
attracts  the  attention  of  the  animal,  which  previous  to  this  moment 
has  been  distracted  b}-  the  combined  efforts  of  the  Picadores  and 
Banderilleros.  The  Toreador  is  the  darling  of  the  people  and 
must  necessarily  possess  a  keen  eye,  steady  nerve  and  firm  hand. 
The  sword-thrust  to  dispatch  the  now  thoroughly  enraged  creature, 
that  bounds  forward  with  flaming  eyes  and  bleeding  wounds,  must 
be  (juick  and  sure.  Not  a  second  too  soon  or  too  late,  but  just 
as  the  fearful  horns  seem  about  to  raise  the  Toreador  from  the 
ground,  there  is  a  swift  movement,  an  agile  spring  to  the  left,  and 
the  weapon  has  entered  the  quivering  flesh  between  the  shoulder 
blades.  The  animal,  only  a  moment  before  such  a  dangerous 
assailant,  falls  lifeless  at  the  feet  of  the  victor  who  waves  his  sword 
triumphantly  above  his  head. 

This  bull  ring  seats  14,000  people.  The  admission  is  six 
pesetas;*  but,  no  matter  how  poor  the  Spaniard,  he  can  always 
scrape  together  enough  to  enable  him  to  enjoy   the  national  sport. 

The  ladies  on  such  festal  occasions  don  their  gala  costumes 
and  always  wear  a  white  mantilla  instead  of  the  usual  black  one. 
It  is  a  curious  fact  that  such  an  element  of  cruelty  and  blood- 
thirstiness  should  enter  into  the  character  of  these  admirable 
and  agreeable  people.  The  bull  seems  to  be  considered  the  com- 
mon enemy  of  the  race;  so  that  the  very  babies  play  at  bull-fight- 
ing. After  all,  is  it  really  much  worse  as  a  spectacle  than  a 
prize  fight  where  human  beings  pound  each  other  to  a  jellv,  ap- 
plauded and  encouraged   b\'  men  of  sujijiosed  education  and  refine- 

*  §1.20. 


CADIZ  47 

mcnt;  or  ;i  hunt  in  which  gentle  women  ride  with  pleasure  to  sec 
a  fox  torn   l)y  the  tan,i;s  of  a  pack  of    hounds? 

\\'an<ing  ironi  tlie  huh  ring  to  the  hotel  we  jiassed  an  old 
lavakn'io  or  public  j^lace  where  the  Moors  washed  their  feet  and 
hands  betore  entering  the  mosque,  which  has  since  been  converted 
into  the  bishop's  house. 

Cadiz  is  built  on  a  point  of  land  jutting  from  the  west  coast 
of  Spain  into  the  ocean,  and,  on  account  of  its  shape,  is  called 
La  Taza  de   Plata.* 

As  we  left  the  city  on  our  way  to  Seville,  tlie  train  was  a  great 
curiosit}'  to  us.  The  cars  open  at  the  side,  each  compartment 
seating  onh'  eight  people.  There  are  no  bells  on  the  locomotives 
in  Spain,  but  when  the  train  is  about  to  start,  the  station-master 
appears  and  rings  ^"igorousl3'  an  ordinary  dinner-bell,  the  whistle  on 
the  p\-gm}-  engine  gives  a  little  toot  and  the  train  starts.  We  had 
just  congratulated  ourselves  that  we  were  to  be  alone,  when 
presto!  three  Spaniards  entered,  all  smoking.  Of  course  this 
was  to  be  expected,  for  in  Spain  men  smoke  everywhere,  even  in 
the  presence  of  ladies.  We  prepared  to  be  miserable,  and  drew 
nearer  the  windows,  but  to  our  surprise  the}-  permitted  the  weeds 
to  go  out,  and  were  assiduous  in  their  efforts  to  make  us  com- 
fortable, arranging  the  curtains  and  picking  up  our  parcels.  On 
leaving  at  one  of  the  way  stations  they  raised  their  hats  and  said 
courteously.    "Adios,    Senoras. "f 

The  country  between  Cadiz  and  Seville  is  beautiful.  Just  out 
of  Cadiz  are  great  salt-pans,  and  near  by  are  pyramids  of  salt  ready 
for  market.  The  farms  are  enclosed  by  hedges  of  the  century 
plant  and  the  earth  seems  rich  and  productive.  There  are  wheat- 
fields  and  olive  orchards,  vast  vineyards,  bare  of  leaves, — as  it  is 
only  March, — herds  of  cattle,  sheep  and  goats.  The  mode  of  plow- 
ing is  primitive  indeed.  The  plow  itself  is  nothing  more  nor  less 
than  the  trunk  of  a  small  tree,  with  a  sharp  projecting  limb  still 
attached    to    it,    drawn    by    oxen. 

The  poverty  of  the  peasants  is  great  and  is  due  principallv  to 

*  The  silver  cup. 

t  Good-b3-e,  ladies. 


48 


CADIZ 


ij^norance,  as  a  large  percentage  of  the  population  of  Spain  can 
neither  read  nor  write.  It  is  said  that  man}-  of  the  peasants  have  on!)- 
a  little  olive  oil  mixed  with  vinegar  and  water  for  their  noondav 
So  much  of    interest    occurred    along    the    wav  that  we   felt 


meal 


a  pang  of  regret  when  the  guard  opened  the  door  of  the  compart- 
ment and  shouted    "Sevilla!  " 


CHAPTER   \T 


SEVILLE 


-yHIS  fine  old  citv,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Guad- 
al(|ui\ii",  has  hren  "the  outU't  tor  the  wealtli  of  Spain 
for  centuries,"  and  is  a  curious  mixture  of  ancient  and 
modern  architecture.  It  has  ever  been  loyal  to  the 
throne,  and  is  the  place  where  the  treaty  between 
England,  I" ranee  and   Spain  was  signed  in    i7:!9. 

We  are  established  at  the /cv/.v/()// *  of  Mme.  Bjork- 
man.  The}'  charged  us  two  dollars  per  dav  at  the  hotel  in  Cadiz, 
but  here  the  terms  are  only  one  dollar  and  sixty  cents,  excrything 
included.  The  breakfast  begins  at  noon,  and  it  one  wants  an\thing 
before  that  time,  he  can  onl\'  have  cofTtee  or  chocolate.  The  latter 
is  made  quite  thick,  and  eaten,  not  drunk,  by  the  aid  of  a  lady- 
finger  or  a  roll  cut  in  strips.  Contrary  to  our  expectations,  we  enjoy 
the  Spanish  dishes,  especially  the  meats,  which  are  sometimes  served 
in  a  gravy  thick  with  pitted  olives.  There  is  a  dessert  cnWcd  />(7s///c's 
de  cidra.-\  which  is  a  shell  made  of  puff-paste  filled  with  a  mixture 
somewhat  resembling  mince  meat  flavored  strongly  with  boiled  cider. 
Wine  is  served  at  each  meal  without  extra  charge,  but  one  cannot 
get  water  without  asking  for  it,  which  we  invariably  do.  Of  course 
the  nati\'e  wines  of  Southern  Europe  contain  little  alcohol,  and  are 
more  like  the  grape-juice  which  we  use  in  America.  Tlie  water  in 
many  places  is  impure,  and  physicians  generally  urge  tourists  to 
drink  the  light  wines.  However,  as  we  both  prefer  hot  water  to 
cold,  bv  having  it  l)oiled,  all  danger  is  avoided. 

It  is  always  pleasant  to  have  one's  first  view  of  a  city  from 
some  high  point,  so  we  repaired  the  morning  after  our  arri\al  to  the 
Giralda,  whence  the  prospect  is  very  extensive.      The  Guadalquivir 


*  Boarding  house, 
f  Cider  cakes. 


49 


50  SEVILLE 

winding  in  and  out,  and  the  spires  of  the  twentv-five  churches  rising 
from  the  narrow  streets  of  the  cit\-,  give  a  picturesqueness  to  the 
panorama,  which  the  surrounding  hills,  topped  by  small  villages, 
enhance.  Some  of  them  are  walled,  as  they  were  in  bygone  days 
when  the   Moors  controlled   Spain. 

The  Giralda  is  a  bell  tower  dating  from  the  12th  centur}-. 
Its  architecture  is  Moorish  and  of  extreme  elegance.  An  inclined 
plane,  that  could  be  ascended  easily  by  a  man  on  horseback,  leads 
from  the  grountl  floor  of  the  interior  to  the  top.  The  belfrv  is 
surrounded  by  the  Latin  text: — "Nomen  Domini  fortissima  turris, "* 
the   whole    surmounted    by  a    figure    of    Faith,    fourteen    feet  high. 

The  tower  stands  at  the  northeast  corner  of  the  cathedral, 
which  is  the  largest  in  Spain.  This  edifice,  begun  in  1403, 
is  in  the  Spanish  pointed  Gothic  style.  Its  length  is  413  ft. 
and  its  width  298  ft.  There  are  fine  bronze  doors,  and  about  a 
hundred  stained  glass  windows. 

In  order  to  view  the  treasures  of  the  cathedral,  one  must  ob- 
tain a  permit  trtJm  the  Sacristan  and  pay  a  fee  of  two  pesetas; 
then  the  visitor  is  conducted  about  the  building.  The  rctahlo  or 
altar-piece,  of  enormous  size,  is  divided  into  forty-four  compartments, 
each  of  which  is  carved  or  painted  to  represent  a  subject  of  Bible 
history.  The  body  of  St.  Ferdinand,  which  is  displayed  three  times 
yearly,  lies  underneath  the  high  altar,  but  the  heavil}-  embossed  gold 
and  silver  coffin  is  placed  in  front  of  it.  Through  the  thick  glass 
doors  at  one  side  of  the  altar  we  could  see  the  lead  coffins  of  Pedro 
the  Cruel  and  Maria  de  Padilla,  with  whom  he  contracted  a  mor- 
ganatic marriage. 

The  famous  picture  by  Murillo  called  the  "Vision  of  St.  An- 
thony" is  considered  by  some  critics  to  be  his  finest  work.  It  is 
very  large  and  is  hung  in  the  Baptistery  f  of  the  cathedral.  On 
the  niglit  of  November  4th,  1874,  the  figure  of  St.  Anthony,  which 
occupies  the  center  of  the  canvas,  was  cut  out  and  carried  off. 
The  Spanish  Government  communicated  the  fact  to  its  representa- 
tives in  other  countries,  who  immediately  instituted  a  search.  The 
picture  was  discovered  in  New  York  where  it  was  offered  to  a  Mr. 

*  The  name  of  the  Lord  is  a  strong  tower. 

\  Chapel  where  the  sacrament  of  baptism  is  administered. 


52  SEV/LLF. 

Schaus,  iov  fiftv  pounds,  by  an  unknown   person.      Afterwards  it  was 
restored  to  its  place  in  the  canvas. 

On  Sunday  we  attended  mass  in  the  catheth-al.  The  tloors 
arc  of  stone,  and  during  the  elevation  of  the  Host,  or  consecrated 
wafer,  when  every  one  is  expected  to  show  great  devotion,  I  was 
careful  to  kneel  only  on  one  knee,  as  I  had  taken  a  severe  cold  the 
dav  l)ef(n-c.  Immediately,  I  felt  a  heavy  hand  upon  m}'  shoulder, 
which  forced  me  down  on  the  other  knee.  Looking  \\\),  I  met  the 
disappro\'ing  gaze  of  one  of  the  jiriests,  who  from  the  rear  had 
noticed  mv  seeming  lack  of  respect.  No  talking  or  walking  alxiut 
is  ]"iermitted  during  service  in  the  Spanish  churches,  and  the  people 
are  to  lie  respected  for  this  rule,  which  is  often  violated  elsewhere. 
There  are  no  seats  in  the  cathedral;  consequently  those  who  wish 
to  sit  (luring  a  portion  of  the  service  bring  folding  chairs  with  them, 
or  rent  stools    from  a  woman  who  keejis  a  stock    in   the  vestibule. 

As  it  is  the  custom  in  Seville  to  promenade  the  streets  in  the 
earlv  evening,  we  took  this  opportunity  to  study  the  people.  Alany 
of  tlie  women  are  beautiful,  but  as  it  is  the  Lenten  season  there  is 
nuieh  sameness  in  costume — nearly  all  are  dressed  in  black,  with 
lace  mantillas,  and  their  onlv  ornament  is  a  bright  flower  in  the  hair. 
The  men  are  tall,  with  pale  olive  complexions,  flashing  black  eyes, 
heavy  hair  and  mustaches.  They  wear  capes  fully  six  yards  around, 
gen(;rall\'  lined  with  scarlet  and  draped  about  their  shoulders  in  the 
most  artistic  fashion;  upon  their  heads  are  black  sombreros.* 

'J"o  show  how  courteous  the  Spaniards  arc;  we  asked  one 
gentleman  the  way  to  the  postoffice,  when  instead  of  indicating  the 
direction  b)'  word  or  gesture,  he  made  a  sweeping  bow  and  mo- 
tioned to  us  to  lollow  him,  walking  eight  blocks  out  of  his  way  to 
])ring  us  to  tlie  ]ilace,  wliere,  with  another  ]io]ite  obeisance,  he  left  us. 

Most  ol  the  dwellings  have  little  iron  lialconies,  such  as  one 
sees  in  the  C'reole  quarter  in  New  Orleans,  and  the  senoritas  lean 
over  the   twisted  railings  and  chat  with   friends  in   the  street  below. 

'i"wo  buildings  of  great  interest  to  strangers  are  tlie  Alcazar  or 
Royal  Palace  of  the  Moors  and  the  House  of  Pilate.  The  former, 
excelled    in    beauty    only    by    the   Alhambra   of    Granada,    occupies 


'''  Broad  soft  liat. 


THE  VISION   OF  ST.  ANTHONY 


54  SEVILLE 

the  site  of  the  residence  of  the  Roman  Prsetor  and  was  rebuilt  in 
Moorish  sts'le  in  the  loth  and  iith  centuries.  Here  Hved  Pedro 
the  Cruel  with  the  beautiful  Maria  dc  Padilla.  Here  he  murdered 
in  cold  blood  his  illegitimate  brother,  the  Master  of  Santiago,  whose 
death  was  avenged  six  years  later  by  his  own  brother,  who  stabbed 
Pedro  to  the  heart.  Maria  de  Padilla,  who  ched  shortly  before  her 
husband's  death,  was  buried  with  the  queens  in  the  Royal  Chapel, 
for  Pedro  had  publicly  acknowledged  her  as  his  lawful  wife,  arid 
the  church   had  sanctioned  the  marriage.  i 

A  grand  court  is  called  Las  Doncellas,  *  for  here,  from  the 
maidens  who  passed  in  review  before  him,  the  Moorish  sovereign 
chose  his  wives.  The  Hall  of  the  Ambassadors  is  glorious  with 
mosaic  floors,  columns  of  marble  and  walls  covered  with  stucco 
carved  in  lace-like  designs.  In  one  corner  the  pavement  is  stained 
with   the  blood  of  the  murdered  Master  of  Santiago.  i 

The  House  of  Pilate,  a  reproduction  of  the  one  in  Jerusalem, 
was  I)uilt  in  the  15th  century  by  the  first  Marquis  of  Tarifa  on  his 
return  from  Palestine.  The  walls  of  the  Prsetoriumf  are  covered 
half  way  up  to  the  ceiling  with  splendid  azulcjos.\  A  certain  table 
was  pointed  out  to  us  as  an  exact  copy  of  the  one  on  which  were 
counted  the  thirty  pieces  of  silver  paid  to  Judas  Iscariot. 

We  regretted  that  the  cigar  factory  was  closed  for  repairfe, 
especially  as  tlu'  opera  of  Carmen  had  stimulated  our  curiosit}'  to 
.see  the  place  where  the  heroine  earned  her  daily  bread.  Tobacco 
is  the  principal  export  of  Seville  and  4,  500  hands  are  employed  in 
the  royal  factory  alone.  Olive  oil  is  shipped  yearly  in  large  quan- 
tities to  foreign  countries,  also  quicksilver  from  the  Almaden  mines. 

A  park,  called  Las  Delicias,  ||  extends  along  the  river  bank,  where 
the  fashionable  people  drive  and  walk  after  the  sun  has  set. 

Elaborate  {"(reparations  are  being  made  all  over  the  cit}'  for  the 
Easter  festival.  Holy  week  begins  on  Monday  next,  but  the  week 
following,  with  its  processions,  bull-fights  and  theatrical  perform- 
ances   will    doubtless    be    all    the    yavc^r    bv  contrast. 


*The  maidens. 

f  The  liall  of  the  guards. 
\  Iridescent  tiles. 
II  The  dehfrhts. 


SEVILLE 


55 


One  bright  afternoon  we  went  by  carriage  to  visit  the  ruins  of 
Itiilica,  a  citv  founded  bv  Scipio  Africanus  *  in  210  B.  C.  We 
passed  over  the  old  iron  bridge  that  spans  the  Guadalquivir,  con- 
necting Se\ille  and  the  gypsy  quarter  of  Triana.  It  was  Sunday, 
and,  as  is  the  custom  ol  the  lower  classes  aftt^r  their  morning  of 
devotion  in  the  churches,  the  people  were  spending  the  afternoon 
in  pleasure.  Everywhere  were  little  groups  of  men  and  women 
laughing  and  chatting,  or  having  a  social  glass  of  wine  with  some 
congenial  neighbor.  In  front  of  a  wine-shop  was  a  pretty  girl  danc- 
ing the  fandango,  the  national  dance,  her  feet  keeping  time  to  the 
clapping  of  hands  which  was  vigorously  kept  up  by  an  admiring 
throng  that  applauded  her  graceful  movements.  Gypsy  wagons 
crept  along  the  smooth  road.  They  had  canvas  tops  and  were 
drawn  h\  mules  and  donkevs  hitched  tandem,  sometimes  in  a  strinsf 
of  eight.  Besides  pulling  the  wagon,  they  bore  panniers  so  heavy 
that  it  seemed  as  if  even  their  tough  backs  must  break. 

Of  the  former  magnificence  of  Italica  little  remains,  save  the 
ruins  of  the  amphitheater. 

This  Roman  Plaza  de  Toros  still  shows  portions  of  the  tiers 
of  seats,  now  so  broken  and  moss-covered  as  to  look  scarcely  two 
inches  wide.  Long  galleries  around  the  base,  underneath  the  seats, 
were  here  and  there  divided  off  for  different  purposes.  The  old 
custodian  showed  us  the  cages  from  which  the  lions  rushed  forth 
into  the  arena,  and  a  cell  where  Christians  were  confined  previous 
to  their  martyrdom.  In  the  walls  of  this  cell  is  a  niche  where 
once  stood  the  image  of  a  heathen  god  which  thev  refused  to  wor- 
ship. In  the  gladiators'  apartment  a  round  stone  basin  set  in  the 
floor  served  as  a  lavatory.  After  the  contests  the  corpses  of  men 
and  beasts  were  thrown  into  a  deep  well  near  by.  The  little  vine- 
clad  house  of  the  custodian  nestles  beside  one  of  the  great  boulders 
thrown   up  bv  an  earthquake  in   1773. 

We  had  a  time  with  the  beggars  on  the  way  back  to  Seville, 
but  at  last  escaped  Ijy  throwing  them  coppers,  for  which  we  left 
them  scrambling  and  fighting.  Alas!  they  are  the  torments  of  this 
beautiful  country,  to  which   the_y  cling  like  parasites. 

*  Roman  general. 


CHAPTER   VII 

CORDOVA 

^J/^kty     ^  the  way  from  Seville  to  Cordova  we  passed  several 
'yPj*ML       "Castles  in  Spain."     One  occupied  the  top  of  a  moun- 

I^ffipPW  tain  to  the  steep  sides  of  which  oHve  trees  were 
85a  jP*  cHnf^ing  as  sturdily  as  when,  centuries  ago,  they  yielded 
y^y^ /  their  abundance  to  the  retinue  of  El  Gran  Seiior.* 
'^'i^^  Another  stronghold  half  way  up  the  side  of  a  valley 
frowned  from  tlie  edge  of  a  clifl  a  thousand  feet  high. 
These  grim  old  castles  still  guard  the  mountain  passes,  bidding  de- 
fiance to  Time,  the  All-destroyer. 

The  Spaniards  are  a  jn'oud  race,  and  despite  the  fanaticism 
that  has  done  so  much  to  destroy  their  art,  despite  the  barrenness 
of  their  land,  for,  excepting  Andalusia,  it  is  barren,  with  povertj^ 
actually  staring  them  in  the  face,  they  live  upon  the  memory  of 
their  past  greatness  and  are  content  so  long  as  they  have  sufficient 
food  and   the  indispensable  guitar. 

Cordova,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Guadalquivi,-,  is  seventy-five 
miles  northeast  of  Seville.  Its  walls  are  Moorish,  but  erected  on 
Roman  foundations.  The  principal //crsc?  is  called  "El  Gran  Capi- 
tan.'f  A  fine  drive  surrounds  it  and  from  this,  in  all  tlirections, 
radiate  narrow  winding  streets. 

The  glorv  of  the  city  is  the  great  mosque  built  bv  Abdu-r- 
rahman;};  I.  It  is  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world  and  ranks 
third  in  sanctity.  The  exterior,  with  its  heavy  square  towers,  is 
relieved  by  a  beautiful  courtyard,  containing  fine  orange  trees  and 
a  fountain  around  which  gather  women  carrying  huge  earthen  water 
jars  on  their  hips.  The  interior  is  one  of  the  most  wonderful  ex- 
amples of  Moorish  architecture  extant.      One  seems  to  be  entering 

*  The  great  lord, 
f  The  great  captain. 
J  Moorish   Sultan. 

56 


c8  COA'/)Oi:i 

a  city  of  ]iillars,  for  nearly  a  thousand  monoliths*  still  remain  of 
the  original  twelve  hundred.  The  variety  of  marbles  composing  the 
columns  is  fairly  bewildering.  They  are  twelve  feet  in  height,  hewn 
out  of  jasper,  porphyry  and  other  precious  materials,  and  divide  the 
mosque  into  twenty-nine  aisles  one  way  and  nineteen  the  other. 
Upon  them  is  supported  a  double  tier  of  Moorish  arches. 

There  is  a  heptagonal  chapel  on  one  side,  with  a  roof  composed 
of  a  single  block  of  white  marble  carved  in  the  form  of  a  shell.  A 
path  has  been  worn  in  the  stone  floor  by  the  feet  of  pilgrims,  who 
here  fulfilled  llieir  vow  and  obtained  the  blessing  usually  granted  at 
Mecca.  The  exterior  of  this  chapel  is  ornamented  with  rare  mosaics 
sent  from  Constantinople.  They  still  glitter  as  freshly  as  if  set 
yesterday,  and  are  considered  by  many  artists  to  be  the  finest  in 
the  world. 

The  Mak-surah,  where  the  sultan  prayed  on  b'ridays,  was  for- 
merly paved  with  pure  silver  and  decorated  with  gold  and  precious 
stones. 

Imagine  this  labyrinth  lighted,  as  it  was  in  the  past,  by  4, 700 
perfumed  lamps  and  you  will  have  a  faint  idea  of  what  must  have 
been  the  enchantment  of  the  scene. 

The  Spaniards  did  their  best  to  destroy  the  beauty  of  this 
structure  by  raising  the  roof  of  the  central  portion  and  inserting  a 
high  altar,  choir  and  chapel.  When  Charles  V.  returned  to  Cordova 
and  saw  this  change  he  rebuked  the  authorities  of  the  cathedral,  say- 
ing:—  "  Vou  have  built  here  what  could  have  been  erected  as  well  any- 
where else,  and  you  have  destroyed  what  was  unique  in  the  world. " 

Leaving  the  mosque,  we  walked  through  a  number  of  narrow 
streets,  until  we  came  to  a  plaza  where  cadets  were  at  drill.  On 
one  side  of  the  square  was  the  old  Royal  Palace.  One  wing,  sur- 
mounted bv  two  serrated  f  towers,  is  used  as  a  prison.  Mere  slits 
in  the  wall  serve  as  windows.  Adjacent  to  this  building,  and 
directly  untler  its  stone  towers,  is  a  garden  filled  with  date,  palm, 
orange  and  lemon  trees,  the  latter  loaded  with  fruit.  Climbing 
roses  fill  the  air  with  their  perfume,  and  sparkling  waters  gush 
through    an    opening  in  one  of    the  old    stone  walls  into  the   baths 

*  K  pillar  cut  from  a  single  stone, 
f  Notched  on  the  edge. 


CORDOrA 


59 


below.  These  basins,  whore  oncv  the  favorites  of  kinj^s  sported  like 
mermaids,  are  now  filled  with  gold  and  silver  fish. 

Near  b}-  liows  the  river  spanned  by  a  Moorish  bridge  of  great 
length.  The  stone  gate-way  of  the  city  makes  a  splendid  back- 
ground for  the  gaily  dressed  peasants  who  congregate  there,  their 
donkeys'  heads  decked  with  red  and  )-ellow  woolen  balls  and  queer 
little  bells,  while  awaiting  their  turn  at  the  gate,  where  packs  are 
examined  and  customs  paid. 

Across  the  river  are  some  old  mills,  with  open  horseshoe 
arches.  Oh!  if  vou  could  hear  the  cathedral  bells,  as  I  did  when 
I  stood  on  that  bridge!  They  are  so  sweet,  so  solemn,  that  the 
very  memory  of  them  makes  me  homesick! 

We  cannot  help  remarking  the  extreme  youth  of  the  soldiers 
we  meet  in  Spain.  We  are  told  that  mere  boys  are  being  forced 
into  the  army  to  take  the  places  of  the  thousands  of  men  who  have 
gone  to  Cuba  to  quell  the  insurrection.  In  spite  of  our  disapproval 
of  the  policy  of  the  Spaniards  regarding  the  government  of  Cuba, 
we  must  admire  their  courage  and  determination  to  die  fighting 
rather  than  vield  what  thcv  firm!}'  believe  to  be  their  rights. 


CFIAPTER    VIII 

GRANADA 

N  leaving  Cordova  for  Granada,  we  travelled  directly 
south  toward  Bobadilla,  the  first  half  of  the  distance, 
passing  villages  and  towns  still  showing  traces  of  Moor- 
ish architecture.  Montilla,  a  [iretty  place,  is  completely 
enclosed  b}'  its  ancient  wall.  The  surrounding  country 
shows  great  fertilitv.  Further  on,  at  the  foot  of  a  steep 
hill  crowned  bv  an  ancient  Moorish  tower,  is  the  little  town 
of  Aguilar.  In  Spanish  doi/ila  means  eagle,  so  my  fancy  leads  me 
to  connect  the  two  words  and  call  this  tower  '  'The  Eagle's  Nest.  " 
It  was  probably  the  home  of  the  valiant  knight,  Alonso  de  Aguilar, 
the  friend  of  Ponce  de  Leon,  with  whose  search  tor  the  fountain 
of  eternal  vouth   we  are  all  familiar. 

We  changed  cars  at  Bobadilla  and  entered  one  contain- 
ing an  American  family  of  three.  They  were  in  fine  attire  and 
evidcntlv  thought  we  were  quite  beneath  their  notice,  for  their  man- 
ners were  so  "snippv. "  However,  we  survived.  Those  of  our 
counlrvmen  whom  we  have  happened  to  meet  have,  as  a  rule,  been 
uncompanionable;  either  they  are  extremel}'  reserved,  or  they  are 
nonvcaux  riches*  On  the  contrary,  we  have  found  foreigners 
most  delightful. 

Arrixing  m  Granada  at  nightfall,  we  took  a  carriage,  after  mak- 
ing a  bargain  with  the  driver,  and  started  in  the  direction  of  Uie 
Alhambra.  Passing  through  the  city,  in  and  out  of  narrow  streets, 
where  the;  wheels  almost  grazed  the  houses  on  either  side,  uji  and 
up  we  went,  until,  entering  a  ston(>  gatewav,  we  found  oursehes 
within  the  Alh;iml)ra  gardens.  A  (hi\e  winding  in  serpentine 
fashion  led  us  to  the  top  of  the  hill.  In  the  gardens  are  great  elms, 
-said    to  have    been    planted  by  the   Duke  of  Wellington.      Here  in 


*  Pltsoiis  who   have   recently  acquired  weahh. 

60 


GRANADA 


Cn 


the  summer  the  nightingales  sing  their  sweetest.  Throughout  the 
dense  groves  gas  lamps,  placed  at  intervals,  in  the  distance  gleam 
like  giant  fireflies.  As  we  reached  the  summit,  we  came  out 
upon  a  small  pla.-ja   and  beiore   us  loomed  that  ugly   pik;  of  yellow 

masonr\',  the  pal- 
ace ol  Charles  V., 
w  h  i  c  h  entirely 
conceals  the  Al- 
hambra. 

Turning  uji  a 
short  street  we 
stopped  in  front 
ot  a  barred  tloor, 
upon  which  our 
coachman  rapjied 
with  the  handle 
of  his  whip.  A 
withered  old  wom- 
a  n  o  p  c>  n  e  d  t  h  e 
wicket,  and,  when 
I  addressed  her 
in  French,  an- 
swered in  a  per- 
fect voile}-  of 
Spanish,  then  ran 
half  way  across 
the  street  and 
called  some  one 
byname.  Out  of 
the  darkness  came  a  young  man,  who  doffed  his  cap  and  in  fair 
French  asked  our  errand.  We  informed  him  that  we  had  wrillcn 
to  engage  accommodations  at  this  house,  whereupon  he  at  once 
ushered  us  in,  at  the  same  time  expressing  regret  that  our  letter 
had  not  been  received. 

Soon  we  were  established  in  a  comfortable  room  containing 
two  snowy  beds  and  were  refreshed  with  some  tea,  eggs  and  rolls. 
A  Chicago    artist  had    recommended  this  house;    that  of   a  private 


ROAD    TO    ALHAMBRA 


62 


GRANADA 


family  '  'wot  takes  lodgers, "  and  we  were  delighted  to  be  the  strangers 
within  their  gates. 


A    SCRAP     FROM    MV    NOTEBOOK. 


I  am  writing  on  the  edge  of  the  parapet  overlooking  the  great 
Gate  of  Justice,  where  the  Moorish  sovereigns  or  their  representa- 
tives dispensed    judgment.      Over    the    horseshoe    arch  is  graven  a 


GATE    OF    JUSTICE,  ALHAMBRA 


hand  uplifted;  over  the  inner  arch,  a  key.  The  Moors  used  to  say 
that  only  when  the  hand  grasped  the  key  could  the  Alhambra  be 
taken.  Above  the  arch  is  the  inscription  written  by  its  founder, 
Yusuf: — "May  the  Almighty  make  this  a  bulwark  of  protection, 
and  inscribe  its  erection  among  the  imperishable  actions  of  the 
just." 

A  winding  vaulted  passage  leads  up  through  this  gate  to  the 
Place  of  the  Cisterns.  As  I  look  down,  I  can  see  people  coming  up, 
dwarfed  b)-  the  distance,  wliich  is  so  great  that  the  tops  of  the 
tall  cypresses,  growing  on  the  slopes  beside  the  roadway,  are  on  a 
level  with  the  parapet.  There  are  village  folk  toiling  along  under 
their  loads  of  provisions,  ajiparentlv  just  returning  from  market, 
while  some  gypsies  are  singing  and  dancing  in  order  to  attract  our 
attention;   ihcir  gay  costumes    making    bright    splashes  of  color  on 


GRAXADA 


63 


the  landscape.  At  my  left,  away  across  La  Vega,*  rises  the  lofty 
range  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  the  snow-capped  peaks  outlined  against 
the  bluest  of  skies.  All  over  the  plain,  in  the  distance,  are  little 
white  towns  and  at  the  foot  of  the  Alhambra  hill  lies  Granada, 
its  red  tiled  roofs  covering  whitewashed  walls. 

Across  the  glen  to  my  right  is  the  Generalife,  tlu"  sunimc-r 
villa  of  the  Moorish  sovereigns.  The  area  occupied  by  the  fort- 
ress and  palace  of  the  Alhambra  is  about  thirty-five  acres,  in- 
closed by  a  strong  wall,  broken  by  towers.  The  fortress  was 
sometimes  garrisoned  by  forty  thousand  men  in  the  time  of  the 
Moors. 

Now,  I  am  down  in  the  roadway  in  front  of  the  Gate  of 
Justice.  Above,  swav  the  interlacing  elms.  A  prett\-  little  gypsy 
girl,  who  has  been  posing  for  an  artist  near  by,  has  left  him  and 
is  dancing  for  us.  Her  hair  is  flying,  her  eyes  sparkling,  and,  as 
she  curves  her  arms  and  points  her  little  toes,  she  would  do  credit 
to  Carmencitaf  herself. 

Desbitt,  an  artist  from  the  Edinburgh  Academy  of  Fine  Arts, 
was  this  morning  painting  a  scene  in  the  little  street  where  we  are 
staying,  and  we  stood  some  minutes  watching  him  work.  This  is 
surely  the  paradise  of  artists,  for  here  are  the  rich  colors  and  the 
quaint  effects  they  all  seek. 

Under  the  guidance  of  our  host,  Senor  Carmona,  we  have  visited 
the  Alhambra,  the  Generalife  and  other  points  of  interest  in  Gra- 
nada. How  can  I  picture  to  you  the  glories  of  the  Alhambra?  a 
spot  both  familiar  and  dear  to  us  through  the  tales  of  \\';ishingt<>n 
Irving.  But  you  will  wish  to  know  my  impressions,  so  I  will 
describe  the  palace  briefly,  and  may  the  shades  of  the  Sultans  for- 
give my  presumption! 

Passing  around  the  Renaissance  palace  of  Charles  V.,  we  found 
ourselves  before  an  iron  door  opening  into  a  low,  unpretentious 
building.  It  was  the  Alhambra,  the  celebrated  palace  of  the  Moorish 
kings.  The  exterior  was  built  in  this  simple  style  in  order  to  avert 
the  Evil  Eye,   which  the  Moors    believe    threatens  the  prosperous. 


*The  plain. 

f  Celebrated  Spanish  dancer. 


64  GRANADA 

But,  "Open  Sesame!"  the  door  flew  back  at  the  touch  of  our  guide's 
stick  and  we    were  in  fairykmd. 

Above  us  was  the  blue  vauk  of  lieaven;  below,  and  before  us  a 
mirror  of  water,  surrounded  by  a  low  hedge  of  myrtles  and  filled 
with  Ix'autiful  fish;  about  us  were  graceful  columns  supporting  arches, 
the  spaces  above  perforated  by  carvings  in  stucco  and  the  walls  cov- 
ered by  the  same  material  in  geometrical  and  floral  designs.  Court 
succeeds  court  in  this  Elysium,  all  difi^erent,  3'et  all  in  perfect  har- 
mon\-.  Martlets  flit  about  among  the  arches  and  vaulted  roofs,  and 
are  held  sacred,  as  they  are  said  to  be  the  birds  that  plucked  tlie 
thorns  from   the  crown  of  our  Sa\'iour  when  he  hung  ujion  the  cross. 

All  over  the  building  is  written  Ijy  the  finger  of  the  sculptor 
the  same  Mohammedan  war  cry  that  we  heard  in  Morocco: — "Wa 
ha  ghaliba  ilia  Allah!" — "There  is  no  Conqueror  but  God.  '  Tliis 
famous  sentence  was  uttered  by  the  Sultan  Ibn-1-ahmar  in  answer 
to  the  greeting  of  his  subjects,  who  saluted  him  as  "Conqueror" 
when  he  returned  victorious  from   battle. 

P'rom  this  Court  of  the  Myrtles  we  jiassed  to  the  Hall  of  the 
Ambassadors.  Its  magnificent  inlaid  ceiling,  seventy-five  feet  in 
height,  is  of  dark  carveti  wood,  once  adorned  with  brilliant  colors, 
now  faded.  This  room,  which  was  the  grand  reception  hall  and 
contained  the  throne  of  the  Sultan,  occupies  all  of  the  Tower 
of  Comares.  Here  Columbus  received  from  Isabella  the  jewels 
which  made  possible  his  voyage  of  discovery.  Outside,  moss  and 
ivy  cling  to  the  thick  walls,  the  trailing  vines  swaying  softlv  in  the 
perfumed  air. 

The  largest  court  is  the  famous  Court  of  the  Lions.  The  fi)un- 
tain  in  the  center  has  a  basin  supported  by  the  figures  of  twelve 
marble  lions.  Four  channels  in  the  mar])le  pavement  connect  this 
fountain  with  smaller  ones  in  adjoining  apartments.  One  hundred 
and  t\vent}-eight  pillars  of  Macael  *  marble,  once  of  dazzling  white- 
ness, now  an  ivory  tint,  form  a  colonnade  around  this  court.  As 
we  stood  within  it  one  evening,  while  the  moonlight  flooded  the 
fountain  and  streamed  through  the  filigree  arches,  bringing  out  in 
strong  relief  the  shadows  cast  by  the  pillars  upon  the  pavement,  it 

*  A  marble  quarry  in  Spain. 


Ch'.LYADA 


65 


seemed  like  a  dream-palace  that  at  the  shghtest  touch  miL;ht 
vanisli    forever  from  our  sii^ht. 

The  Hall  of  the  Abencerrages  *  is  so  called  because  it  is 
the  one  in  which  the  Sultan  Boabdil  beheaded  thirty-three  chiefs 
of  that  clan  whom  he  had  invited  to  a  banquet.  The  blood  stains 
are  still  visible  near  the  fountain  in  tlie  center. 

Ojiposite  this  hall  is  that  of  the  Two  Sisters,  named  from  twin 


COURT    OF    THE    LIONS,  ALHAMBRA 

marble  slabs,  without  flaw,  which  are  let  into  the  pavement.  From 
the  honey-combed  ceiling  hang  stalactites  of  stucco,  strengthened 
within    bv  hollow  reeds   and    delicatelv  tinted.       Here,   as  in  other 


*  Name  of  a  clan. 


66 


GRANADA 


rooms,  the  Arabic  word  for  felicity  appears  on  the  stucco  medalhons 
wliich  embelHsh  the  walls.  A  charming  loggia  opens  from  the  Hall 
of    the    Two  Sisters.     Its    ceiling    is    inlaid    with    bits   of    sparkling 

glass.  Four  windows 
overlook  a  beautiful  gar- 
den of  orange  and  med- 
lar trees. 

The  Alhambra  Vase, 
probably  the  most  noted 
in  the  world,  is  a  splendid 
specimen  of  Moorish  ce- 
ramic art  of  the  14th  cen- 
tury. The  proportions  of 
this  ornament  are  most 
harmonious,  and  enough 
of  the  blue  and  gold  dec- 
oration is  still  visible  to 
enable  one  to  guess  at  its 
beauty  when  fresh  from 
the  potter's  hands. 

Descending  the  mar- 
ble stairs  from  the  Court 
of  the  Myrtles  and  trav- 
ersing several  corridors 
we  reached  the  Hall  of 
Repose,  with  a  raised  dais 
on  two  sides,  used  as  a 
resting-place  after  the 
bath.  The  primary  colors,  blue,  red  and  vcUow,  are  seen  in  the 
upper  decorations,  the  secondary  ones,  purple,  green  and  orange,  in 
the  aziilcjo  dadoes.  A  succession  of  bath-rooms  open  out  of  the 
Hall  of  Repose.  The  ceiling  of  the  vapor  bath  is  pierced  with 
star-shajH'd  o]ienings  which  admit  air  and  light.  The  waters  of 
the  rix'cr  Darro  supplied  the  fountains  and  baths. 

l'"rom  one  of  the  courts  we  could  see,  in  an  upper  story,  rooms 
opening  on  a  balcony  which  is  entirely  inclosed  by  stout  iron  bars. 


THE    ALHAMBRA    VASE 


GR.LVJDA  Gj 

Here  poor,  crazy  Joanna,  daunhtrr  of  Ferdinand  and  Lsabella,  spent 
man\-  a  weary  day. 

Lines  from  tlie  Koran,  tlie  Mohammedan  Bible,  decorate  the 
side  walls  of  the  Mezciuita,  or  Little  Mosque,  within  the  Alhambra, 
and  the  Mihrab  or  lIol\-  of  Holies,  where  the  sacred  book  was 
kept,  is  a  marvel  of  beauty.  1  wonder  whether  the  dead  return, 
and,  if  they  do,  if  it  was  all  a  \ision,  when,  leaning  against  the 
marble  casement,  I  seemed  to  see  the  majestic  figure  of  a  Sultan 
kneeling  on  the  mosaic  Hoor,  with  silken  robes  floating  about  him, 
cruel,  bigoted,  despotic,  as  most  of  the  leaders  of  the  time  were,  yet 
still  a  sovereign  in  pride,  dignity  and  dauntless  courage. 

The  dissensions  of  the  Moors  finally  led  to  the  downfall  of 
Granada,  the  last  of  their  strongholds  to  yield  to  the  Christians. 
The  legend  runs  that  Muley  Aben  Hassan,  Sultan  of  Granada, 
falling  in  love  with  a  Christian  maiden,  Isabella  de  Solis,  set  aside 
his  Sultana,  Ayesha,  and,  confining  her  and  her  son  Boabdil  in 
the  Tower  of  Comares,  wedded  the  Christian  girl,  whom  the  Moors 
called  Zoraya,  the  "Star  of  the  ^lorning. "  The  Abencerrages  ar- 
rayed themselves  on  the  side  of  Zoraya  and  the  Zegris,  another 
clan,  on  that  of  Ayesha.  One  night,  by  the  help  of  her  ladies, 
A3-esha  let  down  her  son  from  the  tower  window,  whence  he  escaped 
under  the  protection  of  the  Zegris. 

In  14S2,  Boabdil  dethroned  his  father,  and  was  thereafter  known 
as  El  Rey  Chico,  '  'The  Younger  King, "  to  distinguish  him  from  a 
usurping  uncle;  but  his  vengeful  nature  overreached  his  judgment, 
and  inviting  a  number  of  the  Abencerrages  to  a  feast,  under  a  pre- 
tense of  peace,  he  had  them  beheaded,  as  I  have  already  mentioned. 
The  rest  were  warned  and  escaped  to  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  wIkj 
were  encamped  over  against  Granada.  Ayesha  girded  on  the  sword 
of  her  son,  which  she  hoped  would  repel  all  invaders.  The  young 
Sultana  Morayma  wept  when  her  lord,  setting  out  to  battle,  broke 
his  lance  against  the  gateway,  for  it  was  a  bad  omen .  Granada 
fell  on  January  2d,  1492,  when  Boabdil,  presenting  the  keys  to  the 
Catholic  sovereigns,  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  left  the  place  forever, 
as  some  say  by  the  Gate  of  the  Seven  Stories.  Isabella,  in  ac- 
cordance with  his  last  request,  afterward  caused  this  gate  to  be 
walled  up. 


68 


GK.-iNADA 


As  we  stood  in  front  of  the  old  iron  frame,  its  lock  undisturbed, 
and  the  masonry  showing  through  the  bars,  we  felt  a  throb  of  pit\' 
for  the  man  who  had  to  give  up  so  much,  a  sympathy  that  changed 
to  indio-nation  when  we  viewed  the  sepulcher  of  the  murdered  Aben- 
cerrages.      But  people  of    the    19th  century,  who  have  been  taught 


him 


TOWERS    OF   THE    PRINCESSES    AND    THE    CAPTIVE 

the  laws  of  heredity,  cannot  wonder  at  the  misfortunes  and  mis- 
deeds of  the  son  of  such  a   monster  as   Mule)-  Aben   Hassan. 

From  the  summit  of  the  Alpuxarras,  a  range  of  mountains 
overlooking  Granada,  Boabdil  gazed  for  the  last  time  upon  his 
former  possessions.  The  spot  has  ever  since  been  called  "'EI 
jiltimo  snspiro  del  Mora.''' 

The  Tower  of  the  Princesses  and  that  of  the  Captive  are  the 
most  interesting  of  the  Alhambra.  The  latter  has  been  thus  desig- 
nati'd  ever  since  a  Christian  maiden,  of  whom  one  of  the  Moorish 
so\'ereigns  had    become  enamored,   was  imprisoned  there.      Finding 


*  The  last  sigh  of  the  Moor. 


GRANADA  69 

that  she  must  choose  between  de;ith  and  dishonor,  she  flung  herself 
to  the  valle)-  below,  where  her  mangled  remains  were  found  by  the 
Christian  knight  to  whom  she  had  been  betrothed.  This  is  not 
fiction,  but  Spanish  history,  which  abounds  in  romance. 

We  reached  the  Generaliit-,  the  summer  palace  of  the  Sultans, 
by  crossing  a  deep  ravine  and  following  a  long  path  shaded  by 
enormous  cypresses.  Flowering  shrubs  fill  the  spaces  between  the 
trees  and  form  a  hedge  about  six  feet  high. 

Arbors  of  cypresses,  composed  of  eight  or  ten  trees  planted  in 
a  circle,  their  interlacing  tops  making  a  roof  and  their  side  branches 
trimmed  in  patterns,  form  complete  specimens  of  Moorish  archi- 
tecture. 

The  Palace  itself  rises  in  tiers  upon  the  terraced  hillside. 
Colonnades  connect  the  suites  of  rooms  and  open  on  one  side  upon 
a  court  of  orange  trees;  while  the  waters  of  the  Darro  are  conducted 
through  a  channel  in  the  center;  beyond,  is  an  outer  garden.  Marble 
benches  are  placed  against  the  stone  parapet  of  this  garden — which 
bears  upon  its  broad  top  pots  of  roses  and  pansies--  and  the  pave- 
ment is  laid  in  mosaic  patterns.  Nowhere  in  Granada  is  this  pecul- 
iar pavement  better  illustrated  than  in  front  of  tlie  Mezquita,  where 
the  architect,  Yusuf,  was  assassinated  while  at  prayer. 

As  we  strolled  through  the  halls,  sleeping  rooms  and  courts  of 
the  Generalife,  we  felt  as  if  the  whole  place  were  filled  with 
the  presence  of  those  who  had  once  lived  within  its  walls.  Glancing 
into  the  alcove  of  a  chamber,  we  seemed  to  see,  reclining  on  em- 
broidered cushions,  a  radiant  creature,  gossamer  draperies  half 
concealing,  half  disclosing,  her  perfect  form,  while  an  ebon-hued 
slave  waved  a  fan  of  peacock  feathers  lazily  to  and  fro. 

The  portraits  of  sixteen  Moors  in  full  armor  hang  in  a  long 
gallery.  These,  doubtless,  are  the  men  who  embraced  the  Chris- 
tian faith  directly  before  or  after  the  conquest  of  Granada,  for  the 
Mohammedans  did  not  at  that  time  permit  any  representation  of 
human  life. 

As  we  came  out,  what  a  sight  greeted  us!  Successive  flights 
of  stone  steps  lead  up  the  mountain  side,  each  flight  ending  on  a 
terrace  where  a  marble  fountain  sends  up  a  flashing  stream.  The 
steps   are    flanked    by  thick  stone    walls  about    four  feet    high   with 


70 


GRANADA 


(grooved  tops.  Adown  these  grooves  rush  swift  streams  of  water 
into  deep  basins  at  the  foot.  The  slopes  are  covered  with  ferns 
and  tall  trees,  whose  waving  branches  meet  over  the  steps,  forming  a 
perfect  canopy  of  green.  The  effect  is  enchanting,  and  as  we  stood 
gazing,    I    was    taken    back    to    my    childhood's    days,    when    I  lay 


?;•:•« 


~«.'- 


THE    MEZQUITA,  GRANADA 

stretched  on  the  grass  with  the  "Arabian  Nights"  open  before  me 
and  found  in  its  pages  just  such  a  garden,  just  such  a  palace  of 
beauty. 

From  the  Torre  de  la  Vela*  a  bell  begins  ringing  at  8:30  p.  m., 
to  announce  to  the  farmers  that  they  may  turn  aside  the  waters 
of  the  river   to   irrigate  their    meadows.      The    bell  is  rung    by  two 


Watch   tower. 


GRANADA  71 

women,  who  pull  the  rope  by  turns  every  fifteen  minutes  until 
about  four  in  the  morning.  The  Darro  rushes  down  from  the  moun- 
tains and  is  carried  by  canals  and  fountains  all  throuj^h  the  city, 
down  the  sides  of  the  streets  and  paths  into  the  gardens;  every- 
where branches  of  this  beneficent  stream  are  seen.  The  Genii 
meets  it  in  the  lower  part  of  the  cit}-,  and  there  the  women  gather 
on  the  banks  to  wash  their  linen. 

One  e\-ening,  when  we  were  preparing  to  write  our  home  letters, 
Senor  Carmona,  in  his  picturesque  broad-brimmed  hat  and  black 
cape,  knocked  at  our  door  and  asked  us  if  we  did  not  want  to  go 
to  the  top  of  the  Torre  de  la  Vela,  hear  the  bell  and  see  Granada 
by  moonlight.  Donning  our  hats  and  wraps,  we  sped  away  to  the 
tower.  A  loud  knock  on  the  heavy  iron  door  summoned  one  of  the 
keepers,  who  carried  in  her  hand  a  quaint  little  brass  lamp  fed 
with  olive  oil,  such  as  is  commonh'  used  in  Andalusia.  We  groped 
our  wa^'  up  the  stairs  by  this  dim  light  and  came  out  on  the  roof 
and  beneath  the  old  bell. 

An  iron  cross  marks  the  spot  where  the  Christian  flag  was  first 
planted. 

Behind  us  was  the  long  range  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  their 
snowy  mantles  silvered  with  the  light  of  a  full  mo(jn.  Below,  in 
the  citv,  each  roof  was  as  clearlv  defined,  each  narrow  street  as 
light,  as  if  the  sun  shone  down  upon  it,  instead  of  Luna.  Soon 
the  bell  of  a  distant  church  pealed  forth.  Senor  Carmona  put  his 
finger  to  his  lips;  then,  deep  and  sweet  came  the  tones  of  the  old 
cathedral  bell  and  then,  boom!  boom!  the  great  iron  tongue  above 
us  swung  back  and  forth,  filling  the  air  with  a  perfect  ecstasy  of 
sound.  It  is  said  that  the  maiden,  who  rings  this  bell  on  the  second 
day  of  January,  will  be  married  before  the  year  is  out,  so,  naturally, 
there  is  a  great  rush  for  the  bell  on  that  particular  day.  Then 
came  the  walk  back  under  the  trees,  with  the  moonlight  casting 
shadows  of  the  great  elms  across  the  roadway. 

Seiior  Carmona  is  a  goldsmith  and  a  descendant  of  a  famous 
family  of  goldsmiths  who  have  lived  for  several  hundred  years  on 
the  hill  of  the  Alhambra.  As  he  had  spent  so  much  time  with  us, 
we  were  beginning  to  feel  anxious  about  the  price  of  his  services, 
for  we  had  had   several    experiences  with    guides;  so,   at  table  last 


72  GRANADA 

night  I  asked  him  his  charges  per  day.  He  straightened  himself 
up  in  a  grandiose  way  and  said  that  he  was  not  a  professional 
guide,  but  a  Spanish  gentleman,  and  always  took  care  of  his  guests. 
I,  therefore,  begged  his  pardon,  and  thanked  him  for  his  kind  atten- 
tions as  warmly  as  my  poor  Spanish  would  permit. 

After  dinner  he  asked  us  if  we  did  not  want  to  go  into  the 
kitchen,  and  we  very  gladly  accepted  the  invitation  to  see  that 
part  of  tills  quaint  old  house.  The  walls  were  whitewashed — 
everything  is,  here,  Init  the  people.  An  old-fashioned  stove,  some- 
thing like  a  range,  was  placed  upon  a  block  of  stone.  A  heap  of 
charcoal  indicated  the  kind  of  fuel.  Upon  the  walls  hung  brass 
kettles  and  copper  wai'e,  each  piece  polished  till  it  shone  like  a 
mirror.  A  great  earthen  jar,  shaped  like  the  Greek  wine  jars  we 
saw  at  the  World's  Fair,  stood  in  one  corner,  and  the  tables  and 
stone  floor  were  as  white  as  sand  and  soap  could  make  them. 

The  wife  of  our  host,  the  withered  old  woman  who  met  us  on 
our  arrival,  seems  years  the  senior  of  her  portl}'  husl)and  and  quite 
his  inferior  intellectually.  The  women  of  Spain  mature  early  and 
their  beauty  fades  with  great  rapidity  after  they  reach  the  age  of 
thirty.  They  are  domestic  and  know  nothing  about  advanced  ideas, 
and  yet  they  seem  to  be  content.  I  do  not  believe  Senora  Car- 
mona  knows  the  meaning  t)f  "woman's  rights,"  in  the  common 
acceptance  of  the  term.  She  seems  as  fond  of  her  husband  as  he 
of  her,  and,  so  far  as  I  can  observe,  has  pretty  much  her  own  way, 
without  apparent  friction.  While  we  were  her  guests  she  certainly 
held  the   purse-strings. 

There  is  a  slio])  on  the  Alhambra  hill  where  small  models  of 
the  exciuisitely  carved  doors  of  the  palace  are  made.  Mrs.  M. 
could  not  resist  their  attractiveness  and  purchased  one,  but,  as  it 
was  too  large  and  fragile  to  carry  about  with  her,  she  was  obliged 
to  send  it  1)\-  ireiglit  to  Chicago.  We  both  tried  to  make  the  shop- 
keeper understand  that  she  wanted  a  bill  of  lading,  but  to  no  avail. 
So  she  must  simply  have  faith  in  the  Spanish  way  of  doing  busi- 
ness, as  she  has  nothing  to  show  for  the  article  except  the  ordinary 
receipted  bill. 

This  afternoon  we  took  a  carriage  and  with  our  guide  drove 
all    about    the  city,   going  hrst  to  the   Chapel  of    the    Kings,    which 


GR.t.y.lDA 


73 


adjoins  the  cathedral.  Upon  marble  tombs  arc  the  recHning  effi- 
gies of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  and  those  of  Joanna  and  her  husband, 
Philip  of  Burgundy.  The  Sacristan  was  persuaded  to  1<  t  us  go 
down  into  the  vault  benealli,  where  tlu'  roval  eollins  are.  There 
they    were!      Those  of    the  sovereigns    in   the  center,    the  others    to 


THE    ROYAL    TOMBS 


the  right.  The  outer  coverings  were  of  lead,  the  inner  ones,  which 
contain  the  caskets,  of  iron.  It  seemed  like  desecration  when  the 
Sacristan  rapped  on  the  covers  to  show  how  solid  and  strong  they 
were.  Ever  burning  candles  are  placed  around  them.  Joanna 
carried  her  husband's  coffin  about  with  her  for  forty-seven  }'ears, 
watching  it  constantly. 

A  row  of  bas-reliefs  in  the  chapel  tells  the  stor}-  of  the  Con- 
quest. In  one  of  them,  Isabella  is  portrayed  riding  ujion  a  white 
palfrey,  accompanied  by  Ferdinand,  Cardinal  Mendoza  and  courtiers. 


74 


GRANADA 


Boabdil  advances  to  meet  them,  the  keys  of  Granada  in  his  hand, 
whik'  numbers  of   unhappy-looking  Moors  follow  him. 

In  the  sacristy  is  a  large  cabinet,  which,  for  a  consideration, 
the  Sacristan  opened.  There  was  the  crown  which  Isabella  wore, 
a  simple  gold  one,  without  setting  of  any  kind;  the  very  golden 
casket  from  which  she  took  her  jewels  to  give  to  Columbus;  her 
scepter;    Ferdinand's  sword,  and  Cardinal  Mendoza's  crimson  robe. 

Before  we  left,  a  party  of  tourists  tried  to  bribe  the  Sacristan 
to  take  them  down  into  the  vault,  Ijut  he  refused.  Seiior  Carmona 
informed  us  that,  since  he  was  well  known,  we  were  admitted  as 
a  special  favor,  and  he  added  proudlv,  "Yo  soy  EspaTio/."*  He 
afterward  said  that  the  cathedral  authorities  would  not  admit  ordi- 
nary tourists  into  the  vault  for  fear  of  their  molesting  the  remains. 
We  are  told  that  European  countries  have  suffered  much  from 
the  vandalism  of  relic-hunters,  and  therefore  we  do  not  wonder  at 
such  vigilance. 

The  cathedral  and  manv  of  the  buildings  here  are  enriched 
with  native  marbles  from  the  Sierra  Nevadas.  One  kind,  of  a  flame 
color,    shading  to  a  delicate    pink,  is  especially  beautiful. 

At  the  Carthusian  conventf  our  carriage  was  so  beset  by  beg- 
gars that  it  seemed  at  first  as  if  we  would  be  unable  to  alight; 
however,  by  loosening  our  purse-strings,  we  managed  to  struggle 
through  the  crowd  of  watery-eyed  old  men  and  wliining  women  and 
gain  the  entrance. 

A  priest  led  us  into  a  corridor  hung  with  very  badly  painted 
pictures  of  saints  undergoing  martyrdom,  the  sight  of  which  is 
enough  to  curdle  one's  blood.  There  are  saints  stretched  on  grid- 
irons, wasting  over  slow  fires,  and  saints  being  carefully  dismembered, 
while  their  persecutors  look  on  with  apparent  enjoyment.  To  my 
mind,  the  only  excuse  for  tolerating  such  pictures  is  their  antiquity. 

On  the  wall  of  the  refectory  a  cross  is  painted  so  cleverly  that 
it  deceives  the  observer  into  thinking  that  it  is  of  wood.  The 
priest  affirmed  that  birds  had  been  seen  to  fly  through  the  open 
windows  and  try  to  light  upon  it. 

The    doors    and  clothes-presses  of    the  sacristy  are    gorgeously 

*  "  I  am  a  Spaniard." 
t  Suppressed  in  1836. 


GRANADA 


75 


"■'.'% 


^^"m 
1  -? 


s'^.^-^tm^^ 


s^;. 


inlaid  with  tortoise  shell,  mother  of  pearl  and  ivory,  thou<;h  decid- 
edly inartistic.  The  most  precious  treasure  of  the  convent  is  a 
statuette  of  St.  Bruno  by  Alonso  Cano,  a  Spanish  sculptor.  In  the 
face,  suffering  is  depicted  with  great  skill. 

As  we  dro\-e  from  the  convent  to  the  gypsy  quarter,  my  hair 
•  stood  t)n  end,  for  the 

B  side   of    the    hill    was 

so  steep  that  brakes 
had  to  be  used  to 
keep  the  carriage  from 
slipping  back.  The 
gypsies  burrow  like 
animals  in  the  moun- 
tain side.  The  only 
a  i  r  o  r  light  comes 
from  the  open  door. 
We  entered  one  of 
their  caves  and  spent 
a  delightful  halt  hour. 
The  fi  r  s  t,  o  r  m  a  i  n 
room,  is  moderately 
high,  with  arched 
openings  into  other 
rooms,  the  ceilings 
and  side  walls  being 
whitewashed  and  the 
floors  of  brick;  every- 
thing spotless.  A  niche  in  the  wall  forms  a  shrine,  holding  an  image 
of  the  Virgin. 

A  young  man,  in  corduroy  breeches,  round  jacket,  silk  shirt  and 
wide  scarlet  sash,  played  on  a  guitar,  while  several  girls  took  turns 
in  dancing  and  singing.  The  dance  consisted  of  graceful  steps  and 
posing,  chiefly  with  the  arms,  together  with  movements  of  the 
' '  muscle  dance. " 

On  our  return  we  drove  along  an  old  road  running  beside  the 
river  Darro,  which  is  spanned  by  Moorish  bridges,  some  of  them 
fallen  into  decay.      The    houses  on  the  opposite  side  rise  abruptlv 


i 


w 


GYPSY    CAVES    AT    GRANADA 


76 


GRANADA 


from  the  river  bed,  forming  a  sheer  wall  thirty  or  forty  feet  high; 
their  balconies  are  filled  with  flowering  plants  and  their  weather- 
beaten  sides  are  almost  hidden  by  green  moss.  In  one  of  the 
small  parks  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Isabella  I.,  with  Columbus  kneel- 
ing before  her  and  showing   her  a   map. 

The  moonlight  is  streaming  through  our  windows;  we  can  hear 
the  swift  flow  of  the  river  and  the  splash  of  one  of  its  tiny  tribu- 
taries as  it  pours  through  the  stone  wall  of  the  court  below.  My 
thoughts  dwell  upon  Washington  Irving;  upon  the  many  happy 
months  he  spent  in  the  Alhambra,  upon  his  legacy  to  the  world. 

Tomorrow  the  iron  horse  will  bear  us  away  from  wondrous 
Granada,  where  art  and  architecture  have  reached  such  perfection; 
where  the  air  blows  fresh  from  the  mountain  peaks,  and  crj'stal 
waters  flow  from  their  recesses;  where  hearts  are  warm  and  friendly 
toward  the  stranger;  where  courtesy  and  contentment  abide. 


CHAPTER   IX 

NAPLES  AND  THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

iW     nSSt/    /^^  '^'^^  glicli'T.^'    throuiih  a    sea  of    molten    glass,    broken 
\lw  '^4^'  jil^       here  and  there  with  green-clad  islands  of  unutterable 
^...\i.,,      ^%\     beauty.       Before  us  rises  a    range  of  volcanic  hills, 
the  background  of  the  most  populous  city  in   Italy, 
the  inimitable  abode  of    the  art-loving,   song-loving, 
light-hearted  Neapolitans.      The  great  golden  disk  of 

■*?»#  ^'  -^  ^'^'~'  •'''■^"  ^^  rising  from  behind  Mt.  Vesuvius  and  tinge- 
si^  ing  the  column  of  smoke  pouring  out  of  its  crater 
''^•''  with    varying   shades   of   red    and    yellow.      The   shore 

bends  in  two  crescents,  divided  by  a  ridge  running  from  the  jirom- 
ontory  of  Pizzofalcone  to  the  heights  where  St.  Elmo,  once  a  teudal 
castle,  built  by  the  Spaniards  in  1535,  still  stands.  The  curving 
bay  is  dotted  with  odd  fishing  smacks,  their  bright-colored  sails  set 
to  catch  the  morning  breeze.  A  rowboat  filled  with  musicians  draws 
close  to  the  steamer.  They  are  singing  a  gay  lilting  song  accom- 
panied by  an  accordion,  their  upturned  faces  beaming  with  pleasure 
as  we  toss  down  some  coppers  in  reward  for  their  welcome. 

But  }-ou  will  be  interested  in  our  passage  across  the  Mediter- 
ranean. After  a  Sunday  of  rest  we  bade  farewell  to  English  posses- 
sions on  Spanish  shores,  taking  the  steamer  Fulda  en  route  for 
Naples.  The  Fulda  is  much  smaller  than  the  Kaiser,  and  inferior  in 
every  respect,  but  the  weather  has  been  fine  and  the  moonrise  superb. 

Prince  Bismarck  reached  his  eighty-first  birthday  while  we  were 
on  board  and  we  celebrated  accordingly.  The  dining-room  at  bugle 
call  was  a  pretty  sight.  Flags  of  all  nations  were  displayed  every- 
where, the  German,  of  course,  predominating.  On  every  table 
was  an  elaborate  centerpiece  made  of  macaroons  decorated  with 
little  flags  and  on  the  top  a  candy  statuette  of  Germania.  The 
bill  of  fare  was  elaborate,  and  after  the  word  "dessert"  we  read 
"transparent  ice  cream."     When  it  was  time  to  serve  this  course, 

77 


78 


NAPLES  AND   THE  MEDITERRANEAN 


the  waiters  suddenly  left  the  dining-room;  then  out  went  the  electric 
lights  and  we  were  left  in  total  darkness.  Presently  the  band  struck 
up  the  air,  "Fiirst  Bismarck,"  and  the  file  of  waiters  entered,  headed 
by  one  bearing  aloft  the  German  flag.  Every  man  carried  in  his 
right  hand  a  slender  pole  with  a  Chinese  lantern  of  an  odd  shape. 


MOUNT  VESUVIUS  AND  THE    BAY   OF   NAPLES 


and  on  the  left  arm  a  platter  with  a  hollow  block  of  ice,  like  a 
miniature  ice  palace,  inclosing  a  colored  light,  yellow,  pink,  or  blue. 
The  effect  was  fairy-like  and  the  company  was  delighted. 

On  the  second  day  after  leaving  Gibraltar,  we  sailed  along  the 
bare  and  monotonous  coast  of  Sardinia,  which  seemed  deserted;  save 
for  a  lighthouse  here  and  there,  not  a  sign  of  human  life  was  seen. 


' '  ]  'cdi  Napoli  c  poi  uiori !" — '  'See  Naples  and  then  die !" — so  goes 
the    old    saying.      We    have    been    in    the    city    several    days  and, 


NAPLES  AND  THE  MEDITERRANEAN 


79 


though  enchanted  with  the  spot,  we  are  by  no  means  ready  to 
expire.  Perhaps  our  hick  of  courage  is  due  to  the  fact  tliat  we  are 
frozen  sohd,  so  to  speak.  The  icy  wind  from  the  Apennines  is 
sweeping  across  the  land,  and  no  matter  how  much  clothing  we 
wear,  we  still  shiver.  Nevertheless,  it  is  a  comfort  to  be  able  to 
walk  without  being  obliged  to  incline  our  bodies  to  an  aiij^lc  of  forty- 
five  degrees  in  order  to 
keep  the  center  of  grav- 
ity where  it  belongs. 

A  gentleman,  who 
was  evidently  attracted 
by  the  vivacity  of  my 
companion  while  on  the 
Fulda,  assisted  us  to 
land  here,  and,  owing  to 
his  knowledge  of  the 
language,  had  our  bag- 
gage passed  through  the 
custom-house  without 
the  least  annoyance  to 
us,  a  piece  of  good  for- 
tune which  the  others 
did  not  share.  He  then 
put  us  into  a  cab,  beat 
the  driver  down  to  the 
regular  fare,  which  is 
quite  the  thing  to  do, 
and  sent  us  off  rejoicing. 
After  securing  a  double  room,  without  board,  for  six  lire  per  day  at 
the  Hotel  Britannique,  we  started  for  a  bank,  where  we  made  the 
acquaintance  of  the  Italian  lira,  a  coin  equal  to  about  nineteen  cents 
in  our  money.  Later,  we  drove  to  the  Toledo,  the  main  street, 
and,  dismissing  the  carriage,  walked  to  the  Museum. 

In  order  to  see  with  our  eyes  what  we  had  read  of  in  books, 
we  turned  off  several  times  from  the  thoroughfare  into  the  queer 
httle  lanes  which  cross  it.  They  are  lined  with  shops  of  all  kinds 
and    descriptions,    while    bright-colored    awnings    stretch    from    side 


PRINCE    BISMARCK 


8o  NAPLES  AND   THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

to  side.  The  oranf^e  and  lemon  corners  show  the  Iruit  with  stems 
and  leaves  attached.  Vegetable  stalls,  with  open  hampers  spilling 
out  quantities  of  small  red  peppers,  succulent  tomatoes,  cucumbers 
and  fat  green  beans,  interlaced  with  bunches  of  young  onions,  car- 
rots and  parsley,  are  arranged  with  such  an  eye  to  harmony  of 
color  as  to  make  one  hungry  to  look  at  them.  There  are  Lillipu- 
tian bakeries  hung  with  great  strings  of  twisted  rolls  and  banked 
with  loaves  of  bread  and  parti-colored  cakes.  This  wealth  of  gofid 
things  is  generally  presided  over  by  some  plump  and  jolly  little 
woman,  her  rough  hair,  guiltless  of  a  comb,  knotted  carelessly,  l)ut 
artistically,  in  a  big  coil  at  the  back  of  her  head,  and  strings  of  ga}' 
beads  decorating  her  ample  bosom.  Hawkers  with  long  sticks  of 
sealing  wax  accost  the  pedestrian  with: — "Un  soldo,  Signora!"*  and 
Punchinellos  fastened  to  rubber  cords  l)ob  up  and  down,  drawing 
coppers  from   the  pockets  of  the  urchins. 

One  day  we  saw  a  flock  of  lambs  being  driven  down  the  street, 
their  backs  and  heads  decorated,  for  the  Easter  festival,  with  daubs 
of  red  paint,  b'urther  on  was  a  wagon  filled  with  these  little  crea- 
tures, tied  by  the  four  legs  and  hanging  head  downward  from  pegs 
around  the  edge  of  the  cart;  their  feeble  bleats  were  piteous  as  the 
owner  jerked  them  from  a  nail  to  displa\'  their  plumpness  to  the 
prospective  buyer.  How  I  did  want  to  throw  something  at  that 
cruel  peasant!  I  thought  of  the  late  Mrs.  B.,  of  Hyde  Park,  and 
how  she  would  have  made  things  •■hum"  if  she  could  have  been 
there. 

If  \-ou  pass  a  wig-maker's  shop,  you  will  find  him  right  in  the 
window  plying  his  trade,  a  cheap  way  of  advertising.  An  infinite- 
variety  of  curious  scen<'s  constantly  greets  the  eye.  Women  bring 
their  washing  to  the  street  jiump  and,  placing  tulis  and  boards 
directly  under  the  spouts,  .scrub  away,  while  their  next-door  neigh- 
boi-,  leaning  against  it,  rept-ats  the  latest  tidbits  of  gossip.  Lin(\s 
of  clothes  are  strung  from  doorway  to  doorway,  a  remarkable  exhi- 
Ijition   ot    legs  and  sleeves. 

We  spent  a  profitable  afternoon  examining  the  priceless  works 
of  art  contained   in    that  treasure-house  of    Italian    antiquities,    the 


^'  Only   a    piniu  ,  hulv  ! 


NAPLES  AMI    rUE  MED  I TERRANEAN  gi 

National  Museum.  Tlic  bronzes  and  mural  decorations  rccoven^d 
from  the  once  buried  cities  of  Pompeii  and  Herculaneuni  are  to  be 
seen  here,  their  colors  in  llie  most  marvellous  state  of  j)reservatioii. 
Two  masterpieces  of  Grec-k  art  attract  the  attention  at  onc-.e.  The\' 
belonged  to  the  noble  Farnese  family,  and  are  designated  as  the 
Farnese  Hercules,*  and  the  Farnese  Bull.  The  latter  is  world- 
renowned  and  deserves  especial   mention. 

It  is  a  group  illustrating  the  Greek  legend  of  Dirce,  who  was 
changed  into  a  fountain  at  Thebes.  She  was  the  wife  of  Lycus, 
the  king  of  Thebes.  Antiope,  the  niece  of  Lycus,  was  carried  off 
by  the  king  of  Sicyon,  who,  later,  was  forced  to  yield  her  up.  On 
her  wa}'  to  Thebes,  Antiope  ga\e  Ijirth  to  twin  sons,  who  were  left 
with  a  herdsman  on  the  mountains  to  be  reared.  Dirce  became 
jealous  of  Antiope,  who  was  very  beautiful,  and  concealed  the 
whereabouts  of  her  children  until  the}-  had  grown  to  manhood. 
Persecuted  by  Dirce,  Antiope  escaped  to  the  mountains.  There 
she  was  sheltered,  unkniiwing]\',  Ijv  her  sons,  who  were  living  in  a 
hut.  Dirce,  following,  discovered  her  hiding-place  and  ordered  the 
two  youths  to  tie  her  to  the  horns  of  a  wild  bull  to  be  dragged  to 
death.  The  Queen's  command  was  about  to  be  obeyed,  when  the 
old  herdsman  entered,  recognized  Antiope  and  revealed  her  identitv 
to  her  sons.  They  were  so  enraged  that  they  intficted  upon  Dirce 
the  doom  intended  for  their  mother,  and  she  was  dragged  over  the 
mountains,  finally  being  changed  into  a  fountain.  From  these  waters 
Hercules  is  said  to  have  obtained  his  great  strength.  The  group 
of  marble  shows  the  two  sons  struggling  to  hold  a  bull  while  they 
fasten  to  its  horns  one  end  of  the  rope  which  is  attached  to  the 
coils  of  Dirce's  hair.  Antiope,  the  personification  of  Justice,  stands 
beside  them.      The  modelling  of  the  sturdy  youths  is  excellent. 

I  wish  you  could  have  seen  us,  Frida}'  night,  writing  at  our 
little  table  with  two  ' '  pinching  bugs, "  as  Mrs.  M.  dubs  our  candles, 
in  front  of  us.  Our  faces  were  sunburned  to  the  exact  hue  of 
the  scarlet  tablecloth,  by  a  day  at  Pompeii.  Instead  of  going,  as 
is  usual,  by  train,  we  drove,  in  order  to  see  the  life  of  the  suburbs. 
Breakfast,  taken  in  our  room,    consisted  of  a  cup    of  tea,  rolls  and 

*  The  god  of  strength. 
6 


82  NAPLES  AND   THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

an  orange.  The  rolls  were  a  special  Easter  delicacy;  they  had  an 
eoo-  in  the  shell  baked  in  their  coils  and  were  so  hot  with  pepper 
as  to  burn  our  tongues  at  every  mouthful.  After  visiting  the  baker 
and  the  grocer,  where  we  bought  enough  provisions  for  a  lunch,  we 
tucked  ourselves  up  in  the  carriage  robes  and  prepared  to  enjoy 
the  drive. 

The  cabman  was  evidently  proud  of  us,  for,  in  a  loud  voice  he 
informed  several  of  his  friends  that  he  was  going  to  drive  the  two 
"Americanc"*  to  Pompeii,  and  nearly  knocked  down  and  drove 
over  evervthing  on  the  streets,  as  he  lashed  the  sturdy  little  nag  to 
a  still  faster  trot.  The  route  took  us  through  a  section  where  the 
poor  of  Naples  live  and  along  a  country  road  which  passes  through 
out-lying  villages. 

If  you  have  ever  read  Italian  stories  by  Ouida,  or  "Romola" 
by  George  Eliot,  you  will  remember  descriptions  of  just  such  street 
scenes  as  we  witnessed.  Time  seems  to  have  wrought  no  changes, 
and  the  people  work  and  trade  as  in  bygone  days;  the  same  merry, 
careless,  happy-go-lucky  creatures  as  then. 

One  sees  men  and  boys  pushing  barrows,  on  which  are  placed 
boards  containing  loaves  of  bread  dough,  on  their  way  to  the  bake- 
house. Old  women  sit  on  the  corners,  with  heaps  of  chestnuts,  or 
melon  seeds,  a  national  confection,  in  front  of  them,  or  display 
squares  of  painted  canvas,  sugar  lambs  and  colored  eggs,  for  Easter 
week.  All  along  the  streets,  on  boxes  or  planks,  are  stacks  of  bread 
for  sale,  exposed  to  the  dust,  regardless  of  microbes.  Tubs  con- 
taining dozens  of  little  brown  wicker  baskets  filled  with  soft  creamy 
cheese  stand  out  in  front  of  the  meat  markets;  and  everywhere,  on 
donkeys,  in  windows  and  on  the  sidewalks,  is  garlic,  that  detestable 
article  ot  food  the  odor  of  which  the  tourist  never  escapes,  from 
the  time  of  leaving  the  Narrows. 

The  men  of  Naples  are  generally  swarthy,  with  black  hair; 
but  brown  hair  and  eyes  seem  to  predominate  among  the  women; 
though  they  are  so  tanned  that,  at  first,  they  seem  like  brunettes. 
Among  the  better  classes,  the  hair  is  worn  in  pompadour  style,  but 
among  the  lower,  simply  brushed  back,  if  it  is  brushed  at  all.      Peas- 

*  American  ladies. 


NAPr.F.S  AND    THE  AfE DfTF. R k'ANF.AN  83 

ant  women  wear  no  head-coverine;.  As  a  wliole,  tlic  jicople  of  the 
poorer  classes  are  not  as  i^ood-looking  or  as  cleanly  as  in  Spain, 
though  we  find  fewer  begtr^^i"-'^- 

Everybody  seems  busy,  from  the  boys,  whose  clotliinj^  scarcely 
covers    their    bodies,   "atherincf    the    manure    from    the    streets    into 


INTERIOR  OF  THE   MUSEUM   AT   POMPE 

baskets  with  their  bare  hands,  to  the  wrinkled  old  hag  behind  her 
stall  of  artichokes  and  onions.  The  children,  half  naked,  live  upon 
the  sidewalks  and  follow  all  their  inclinations  in  happy  unconscious- 
ness of  the  proprieties.  The  street  cars  run  on  one  side  of  the 
street  and,  in  some  cases,  inside  the  curb,    next  to  the  walk. 

Every  mile  or  two,  after  leaving  the  city,  we  saw  a  plaster  image 
or  a  painting  of  the  Saviour  or  the  \'irgin  within  a  kind  of  frame, 
generally  with  a  glass  front,  elevated  on  a  pole  beside  the  road. 


84 


NAPLES  AND   THE  MEDITERRANEAN 


Pompeii,  from  the  exterior,  appears  like  a  great  reservoir;  all 
that  one  ean  see  is  a  high  embankment  covered  with  grass.  En- 
tering a  gateway,  we  ascended  a  winding  path  which  led  to  the 
museum,  which  contains  casts  of  the  skeletons  of  human  beings, 
horses  and  dogs,  petrified  food,  household  utensils  and  wine  jars. 
Nearly  all  the  wall  paintings  of  any  merit  are  now  in  the  museum 
at  Naples. 

While  excavating  the  ruins,  the  workmen  often  came  upon 
human  bodies,  which,  however,  crumbled  into  dust,  the  moment  they 


FRESCO  IN   THE  "NEW   HOUSE,"   POMPEII 

were  exposed  to  the  air.  So  the  novel  idea  was  hit  upon  of  filling 
several  cavities,  tluis  formed,  with  soft  plaster  of  Paris,  pouring  it 
through  a  small  opening.  This  was  done  and  it  was  left  to  harden. 
Later,  the  shell  was  carefully  knocked  oft'  and  it  was  found  that 
the  plaster  had  assumed  the  shape  of  the  body,  inclosing  the  bones. 
One  of  these  casts  represents  a  young  woman,  who  had  fallen  on 
her  face,    which  was  hidden   in   her  bent  arm. 

When  we  left  the  museum,  we  followed  the  road  up  the  hill 
for  about  an  eighth  of  a  mile,  coming  out  upon  a  street  leading  into 
the  heart  of  this  once  buried  city. 

Its  ancient  streets  are  very  narrow,   and  the  ruts  worn    in  the 


.v.i/'/./-:.s  .i.\7)  ■/■///■:  .\//:/)/7v-A'A'.i.v/:.i.v  85 

stones  hv  the  lu'av\-  whci'ls  of  chariots  arc  in  some  cases  lour  inches 
deep.  Great  llat  stepjiin^-stones  he  in  the  rt)ad\vav,  lar  enouL^h 
a]Kirt  for  wheels  to  pass   l)et\veen   tliem. 

Some  of  the  mosaic  floors  are  still  ]ireser\c'(l,  as  are  marble 
til>les,  basins  of  fountains  and  brolvcn  ]iieces  of  statuary;  while 
the  i'X(]uisiti'  irescoes,  especialK'  those  ot  the  ruin  termed  the  "New 
House,  "  and  the  stucco  reliefs  ot  tlu'  ]Hiblic  baths,  are  sources  of 
nev(-r-endin<^  delight. 

Of  the  places  of  .imusement,  the  smaller  or  Tragic  Theater, 
which  dates  from  j^  B.  C,  is  in  the  best  condition.  It  seated  1500 
persons. 

Near  the  dwelling;  of  Sallust,  the  noted  historian,  is  a  public 
bakehouse,  with  extensive  ovens  and  mills  for  <i;rindin<^'  corn. 

A  fuller's  estal)lishinent  contained  lour  tubs  tor  fullinj;  the 
clotli  wliich  was  afterward  hun<:,f  from  a  gallery  to  dry. 

It  would  be  impossible  to  describe  in  a  limited  space  the 
temples,  Basilica  *  and  Forniu^,  of  which  enough  remains  to  give 
the  visitor  a  fair  idea  of  their  former  dignity. 

In  our  enthusiasm,  we  people  the  empty  streets  and  voiceless 
dwellings  from  the  pages  of  Bulwer  Lj-tton's  "Last  Days  of 
Pompeii."  Again  there  are  sounds  of  revelry  about  the  hospitable 
board  of  Glaucus,  the  Athenian,  and  Nydia  pauses  beside  a  foun- 
tain, the  lashes  of  her  sightless  eyes  lying  dark  against  the  pallor 
ot  her  cheek. 

On  the  following  Saturday,  we  were  entertained  while  at  dinner 
in  the  Birrcria  Gaiiidrinus,  a  fine  restaurant  in  the  cit}',  by  the 
airs  of  a  handsome  young  officer  of  the  King's  Guards.  He  was 
attired  in  pearl  gray  pantaloons,  Ijlack  coat  with  velvet  collar  and 
cutis  braided  with  silver,  cavalry  boots  with  spurs,  heavy  sword, 
black  cap  and  gray  military  cloak.  He  evidently  recognized  that  we 
were  foreigners  and  thought  he  would  show  his  importance.  Find- 
ing fault  with  each  dish  of  the  several  courses  he  had  ordered,  he 
kept  the  two  waiters  racing  from  table  to  kitchen  in  order  to  find 
something  with  which  to  tempt  his  appetite.     After   each    outburst 

*  The  law  court  of  the  ancients. 

t  A  market    place,    generall)'    surrounded    by  public    building's    and    where 
orations  were  delivered  to  the  people. 


86  NAPLES    AND   THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

he  would  slyly  glance  in  our  direction,  but  if  he  caught  us  looking 
at  him,  immediately  his  large  black  eyes  would  stare  over  our 
heads  as  if  oblivious  of  our  existence.  This  specimen  of  the  "gilded 
youth"  of  Naples  may  have  been  a  prince,  for  all  we  know,  as  they 
are  all   military  men. 

After  dinner  we  attended  the  opera  of  Lucia  di  Lajiniicnuoor, 
at  the  Tcatro  San  Carlo,  where  many  of  the  Italian  operas  were 
performed  for  the  first  time.  It  is  said  to  have  the  largest  seating 
capacity  of  any  theater  in  Europe,  though  La  Scala  *  at  Milan 
boasts  a  stage  of  greater  dimensions.  The  San  Carlo  was  founded 
by  Charles  III.  in  1737.  There  are  six  tiers  of  boxes,  thirty- 
two  boxes  in  each  tier,  running  around  three  sides  of  the 
interior.  The  seats  we  occupied  cost  seventy  cents  in  our  mone}-, 
and  we  paid  two  cents  for  the  program,  for  which  a  separate 
charge  is  always  made.  There  are  no  galleries.  The  orchestra, 
of  seventy  pieces,  was  exceedingly  good  and  the  ballet  which  fol- 
lowed the  opera,  amusing.  There  were  about  two  hundred  in  the 
cast  of  the  ballet.  They  tried  to  represent  the  development  of 
the  American  woman,  bloomers  and  all,  and,  of  course,  greatly 
exaggerated  it. 

On  Easter  Sunday  we  attended  service  at  the  church  of  San 
Francesco  di  Paola.  It  has  an  immense  dome,  which  is  supported 
by  thirty  Corinthian  columns  of  marble.  The  high  altar,  inlaid 
with  jaspiT  and  lapis  lazuli,  is  flanked  b\'  two  pillars  sujiporting 
candelabra.  The  pillars  are  of  Egyptian  breccia,  a  very  rare  sub- 
stance, composed  of  angular  fragments  of  minerals  cemented 
together,  thus  presenting  a  variety  of  colors.  All  the  people  sat 
in  rush-l)()ttomed  chairs  placed  directly  under  the  dome.  The 
responses  of  the  male  choir  to  the  chanting  of  the  priests  were 
fine,  but  they  were  accompanied  by  a  wheezy  old  organ  that 
threatened  to  bolt  at  every  pressure  of  the  pedal. 

The  archbishop,  who  was  very  imposing  in  his  magnificent 
white  silk  robes  and  miter,  celebrated  the  mass.  Once,  he  walked 
with  a  jn'ocession  of  priests  around  the  church,  siirinkling  holv  water 

*  Named  after  Beatrice  Scala  who  founded  the  church  which  formerly  occu- 

])ii-il   the  site. 


NAPLES  AND   THE  MEDl TERRANEAN 


87 


upon  the   kneeling  tliroiii;-  with   ;i   brusli  whieh   he   freciuentl}'  (h'jipcd 
in  a  silver  vessel,  s\vun>;-  to  and    fro  by  an  aculyte. 

Before  relating  our  experiences  on  the  trip  to  Vesuvius,  which 
occupied  a  day,  I  will  quote  substantially  Baedeker's  excellent  de- 
scription of  the  volcano: — "The  height  varies,  according  to  the 
different  effects  of  the  eruptions,  from  3,900  to  4,300  feet.  *  *  * 
The  northeast  side  of  the  mountain  is  called   l\It.  Somma,  of  which 


^ 


TRAGIC  THEATER 

the  highest  peak  is  3,642  feet.  The  Atrio  del  Cavallo,  a  deep 
sickle-shaped  valley,  separates  Somma  from  Vesuvius  proper,  which 
consists  of  a  cone  of  ashes  with  the  crater  in  the  center,  the  T^'orge 
of\'ulcan.'"  At  present  there  are  two  craters,  the  central  one  and 
the   new  one. 

Down  to  the  year  1500,  nine  eruptions  are  recorded,  and 
since  then,  fifty.  The  most  recent  period  of  great  activity  began 
in  January,  1S71,  with  the  emissions  of  small  streams  of  lava,  and 
culminated  in  the  great  eruption,  April  24th  to  30th,  1872.  This 
time,  the  lava  burst  forth  on  every  side,  and  with  such  suddenness 
on  April  26th  as  to  o\ertake  and  destroy  twent}'  spectators, 
while  others  were  injured  by  stones  thrown  from  the  summit.      The 


88  NAPLES  AND  THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

torrent  descended  to  IVIassa  and  San  Sebastiano,  which  it  partly 
destroyed,  and  ran  to  a  distance  of  three  miles  in  twelve  hours. 
At  the  same  time,  amidst  terrific  thundering',  the  crater  poured 
forth  hu^e  volumes  of  smoke  mingled  with  red-hot  stones  and  lava 
to  a  height  of  4,000  ft.,  whilst  clouds  of  ashes,  rising  to  double 
that  height,  were  carried  by  the  wind  in  one  direction  one  hundred 
and  forty  miles.  The  lava  emitted  during  this  eruption  covers  an 
area  of  two  square  miles  and  averages  thirteen  feet  in  depth.  The 
damage  was  estimated  at  3,000,000  /re?;/ r.?  ($600,000). 

' '  The  cause  of  these  phenomena  is  still,  to  some  extent,  a 
matter  of  conjecture.  It  is  highly  probal)Ie  that  they  are  intimately 
connected  with  the  water  of  the  sea,  near  which  all  the  j^rincipal 
volcanoes  arc  situated.  There  is  reason  to  believe  that  the  enor- 
mous clouds  of  steam  generated  during  the  eruptions  are  due  to 
some  temporary  communication  of  the  water  with  the  burning 
liquids  of  the  interior  of  the  earth,  and  that  the  premonitory  earth- 
quakes are  occasioned  by  the  vapors  and  gases  as  they  expand 
and  endeavor  to  find   an  outlet." 

The  red-hot  fluids  expelled  from  the  volcano  are  called  lava, 
the  stones,  scoricc,  and  the  minute  portions,  ashes.  If  the  sides  of 
the  cone  are  strong  enough  to  resist  the  lava,  it  flows  out  from 
the  top  of  the  crater,  otherwise,  through  the  sides.  When  freed 
from  the  pressure  of  the  lava,  the  vapors  rise  to  a  height  of  10,000 
ft.,  resembling  a  pine  in  form,  carrying  dense  masses  of  ashes 
along  with  them;  they  are  then  condensed  in  the  air,  and  in  descend- 
ing give  rise  to  those  formidable  streams  of  mud  which  proved 
so  disastrous  to  Herculaneum.  The  appearance  of  fire  at  night  in 
the  smoky  column  is  not  flame,  but  the  reflection  of  the  molten 
lava  inside  the  crater  on  the  rising  clouds  of  vapor. 

Imagine  us  on  the  second  seat  of  Cook  and  Co.  s  four-horse 
coach,  on  our  way  to  Vesuvius.  The  back  scat  was  occupied  by 
a  Russian  doctor  and  his  wife;  the  front,  by  the  driver,  together  with 
a  big,  burly,  black-bearded  German,  and  a  Parisian  swell.  Quite  a 
mixture,  was  it   not? 

Portici  is  the  first  town  after  leaving  Naples,  of  which  it  seems 
a  continuation.  We  crossed  the  court  of   the  palace    built  there 

by  Charles   111.,  in    173S,   in  the  old  park  connected  with  it. 


NAPLES  Axn  iiii-:  .]//■/>/'/■/■: Kh'.i.v/':. I. V  89 

Resina,  the  next  lown,  is  liuilt  on  the  l;i\a  beds  that  cover 
ancient  Ilereulaneiini.  There  some  httle  bows,  ramjj;t'tl,  but  happw 
ran  beside  the  carriage,  two  of  tlieni  ]ila\ini;  on  sticks,  fiddle  fashion. 
One  of  the  sticks  was  notched  and  had  a  nail  in  it  with  some  (hsks 
of  tin  sIiuil;  on  the  nail.  These  prinntixa'  instiannents  accompanied 
ver\-  prettiK'  the  musical  xoict'S  ol  the  rest  (A  the  little  troop.  I 
oftered  the  leader  a  lew  coi)pers  lor  his  hddh'  and  he  went  oil  with 
them  as  gay  as  a  lark.  A  girl  was  lowering  a  basket  fiom  a  tlmtl 
story  l^alcony  to  receive  some  vegetaljles  for  which  she  was  bar- 
gaining in  shrill  tones  with  a  street  vender  below.  Women  were 
putting  the  finishing  touches  to  their  morning  toilets,  on  the  walks 
in  front  of  their  doorsteps,  combing  one  another's  hair,  and  also 
removing  the  inhabitants  therefrom,  a  common  sight  here.  Now  and 
then  the  open  gate  of  some  aristocrat's  villa  would  re\eal  glimpses 
of  lovely  gardens  within,  lillcd  with   fountains,  statuary  and  tlowers. 

.After  an  hour's  drive  we  reached  a  road  bordered  on  the  left 
with  a  wall  made  of  blocks  of  lava  and  inclosing  vine\ards  and 
orchards  of  olive  and  almond  trees;  the  latter  in  blossom  and  very 
pretty  indeed;  but,  oh!  the  view!  as  we  made  the  steep  ascent. 
The  men  of  our  party  walked  up  the  steepest  inclines  to  lighten 
the  load  for  the  horses,    who  were  straining  every  muscle. 

Away  to  the  north  lie  the  Apennines,  from  whose  frozen  heights 
a  cold  wind  swept,  and  penetrated  to  our  very  bones;  while  to  the 
south,  in  joyous  contrast, 

"Calm   Capri   waits, 
Her  sapphire  gates 
Beguiling  to   her  bright  estates." 

The  bay  of  Naples  glittered  as  if  set  with  myriads  of  precious  stones, 
while  village  after  village  appeared,  as  the  landscape  lengthened. 
About  us  were  acres  of  lava.  We  imagined  that  we  could  see 
faces,  animals  and  shells  in  the  fantastic  formations  of  this  hardened 
flood. 

A  short  stop  was  made  to  rest  the  horses  at  a  (jueer  litde 
hostelry,    where  wine,    including    the    celebrated  Lacriuuc    Christie* 


*  Xears  of  Christ. 


90  NAPLES  AND   THE  MED  I  TF.R  KANEAN 

was  for  sale,  but  only  those  of  the  sterner  sex  indulged.  Leaving  the 
carriage  at  the  Meteorological  Observatory,  situated  2,218  ft.  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  we  mounted  mules  and  found  guides  in  readi- 
ness to  conduct  us  across  the  new  lava  to  the  wire-rope  railway, 
which   ascends  nearly  to  the  summit  of    the  crater. 

The  beast  that  was  selected  to  bear  your  humble  servant  had 
an  obstinate  disposition  and  ears  that  must  have  been  a  quarter  of 
a  yard  long.  He  persisted  in  wandering  from  the  straight  and 
narrow  path  laid  out  by  the  company,  and  once,  came  so  near 
slipping  into  a  pit  of  red-hot  lava  that  I  gave  a  squeal,  when  my 
guide  immediately  proceeded  to  put  his  arms  around  me,  fearing 
I  was  about  to  faint.  Therefore,  I  concluded,  that  of  two  evils  I 
would  choose  the  lesser  and  keep  quiet  in  the  future.  How  I  did 
envy  Mrs.  M.,  who  cantered  along  as  easily  as  if  riding  in  a  park, 
now  and  then  casting  a  merry  glance  over  her  shoulder  to  see  how 
I  was  getting  along. 

After  an  appetizing  dinner  at  the  railway  station,  we  entered 
the  car  which  was  to  draw  us  up  the  sheer  side  of  the  main  crater, 
a  distance  of  900  yds.  The  upper  end  of  the  railway  is  1,300  ft. 
higher  than  the  lower. 

As  we  rose  higher  and  higher,  the  peaks  below  us  flattened 
out,  the  clouds  drew  nearer,  and  Naples  became  a  mere  blotch 
of  white  on  the  gra}'  of  the  earth.  At  the  top  station  were  the 
mountain  guides,  with  stout  leathern  straps  over  their  shoulders. 
We  took  hold  of  the  loop  at  one  end  and  began  the  climb  toward 
the  crater.  The  path  in  some  places  was  so  steep  that  a  second 
man  had  to  go  behind  and,  placing  his  palms  against  our  shoulders, 
push  with  all  his  strength,  while  we  ploughed  through  the  soft 
snow  mingled  with  ashes  nearly  knee  deep.  Once,  we  passed 
a  crevasse,  with  yawning  edges,  composed  of  clear  sulphur.  Vol- 
umes of  smoke  poured  out  of  it  with  such  intensity  that  the  whole 
party  took  to  their  heels,  and,  if  we  had  not  held  wet  handkerchiefs 
over  our  mouths  and  nostrils,  we  should  ha\-e  been  overcome  by 
the  fumes. 

At  last,  the  very  edge  was  reached  and,  kneeling  there,  we 
looked  over  and  down,  down,  down,  into  the  seemingly  bottomless 
pit.      Every  now  and  then  an  explosion  would  take  place  and   new 


^p^^^'^^^E  ^ 

IBk                               w8^   ''i^D^^''Pi'\ 

H^w 

AiH 

^^^^^^^Br^    '             ""^B^^Ibeel^S^bH^H^^^^  Vk 

^^^^^BLwg^^  j^mRw  ^n^^^^^% 

I^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^E   '    ^BSScA^Bt       ^        ~  '^^^^^^^Ki^^^^^r  V 

E3^^^K 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^l^nLSPr^^                        "^v^^^^^Bn 

Ffl^^^v 

Wm 

^4 

1 

m 

^■^H'  .     .  iilHu^ 

f-^.H 

92 


y.lPLES  AND   THE  MEDITERRANEAN 


vohiincs  of  steam  and  smoke  would  pour  out.  After  this  liad 
cleared  awav  we  could  see  the  blackened  rock  at  the  bottom  of  the 
crater. 

Then  came  another  lon<^'  tram))  to  the  new  crater  on  the  side 
of  the  Atrio  del  Cavallo.  As  one  jieers  over  its  edge,  instead  of 
a  rocky  cavern,  a  surging  lake  of  molten  lava  is  seen. 

We  reached  our  carriage  after  the  descent,  completely  worn 
out,  but  amply  repaid  for  our  fatigue  bv  the  grandest  sight  which 
we  had  ever  witnessed. 

The  Italian  word  for  street  is  via  or  strada ;  the  principal 
thoroughfare  is  sometimes  called  the  Corso  and  the  squares,  of 
which  there  are  nxA^y,  piazzc,  the  plural  of  piazza;  Spanish, //^ ::(?,• 
German,  platz;  French,  place. 

The  cab  horses  here  are  so  decked  out  in  metal-trimmed  har- 
ness, rosettes,  ribbons,  feathers  and  the  like,  that  we  feel  as  if  we 
formed  jiart  of  a  triumphal  procession,  every  time  we  drive    out. 

(  )ne  afternoon  we  engaged  a  cabriolet  with  what  my  companion 
calls  a  "silver-plated  pony"  and  joined  the  line  of  swell  turn-outs  in 
the  Villa  Nazionale,  the  fashionalile  park  of  Naples,  which  lies 
close  to  the  water's  edge.  The  display  of  handsome  costumes  was 
very  interesting,  though  the  features  of  the  wearers  were,  for  the 
most  part,  plain;  however,  the  "military"  were  superb  and  fully 
compensated  for  the  lack  of  beauty   in  the  women. 

The  population  of  Naples,  the  largest  city  in  Italy,  is  over 
500,000  besides  the  garrison. 

The  shops  are  stocked  with  coral,  cameo  and  tortoise  shell 
ornaments,  while  the  lava  from  Vesuvius  is  carved  into  the  most 
exquisite  shapes. 

\V(;  thought  we  had  seen  curious  fish  at  the  World's  Fair,  but 
those  in  the  Naples  Aquarium  are  far  more  w^onderful.  The  col- 
lection, which  occupies  a  number  of  rooms  and  is  contained  in  tanks 
with  glass  fronts,  is  drawn  entirely  from  the  Mediterranean.  It 
includes  both  large  and  small  sjiecimens  of  the  finny  tribe,  corals, 
seaweeds  and  mosses.  There  were  four  octopi  or  devil  fish,  and, 
as  the  keej-xT  is  susceptible  to  a  fee,  we  persuaded  him  to  feed 
tliem,  that  we  might  see  their  maneuvers.  Accordingh',  he  ])l<iced 
an  enormous  live  spider  on  the  end  of    a    long  reed,    and  going  to 


NAPLES;  A  XL)    TlfE  MKDITERRAM'IAN 


93 


the  second  story,  wIk-iv  tluM-c  arc  o]icnin<^.s  down  into  tlic  tanks, 
held  the  spider  on  tup  ot  llic  \\al<r.  linmediateK ,  llir  lionililc 
creatures  bes^an  to  swim  frt>ni  tlic  IxiltDin,  where  tlu\  had  lain 
curled  up.  Tluir  ul;1v  tiaitaeles  unfolded,  tluir  e\-es  bul^'ed  out, 
and,  in  the  excitenu'Ut  ot  the  ii,i;ht  winch  ensued  over  tlu'  e.aptui-e 
ot  the  choice  morsel,  red  hunches  ot  what  lookt'd  like  entrails  prt;- 
truded  from  their  sides.  These  monsters  are  a  common  article  of 
diet  anioni;  the  Neapolitans. 

There  were  fish  which  resembled  opalescent  l;I,-iss,  some  lik'c 
little  red  ju^s,  while  others  were  so  exactly  the  color  of  ihe  sand 
in  the  bottom  of  the  tank  that  we  distin^uislu'd  them  with  chili- 
cult}'.  Ocean  lettuce  ot  hlmv  ^^reen  waved  back  and  forth,  and 
sea  lilies  opened  their  daintv  petals,  as  perfect  as  if  grown  in  tlu' 
sunshine. 


CHAPTER   X 

FROM  CAPRI  TO  BRINDISI 

■^^^i^,^     -vHE    Bay    of    Naples    was    never    more     cnchantins:;    than 
—    -'•fc)\  wlien  we  embarked  for  Capri.      Behind  us  la\-  the  varied 
Jk   T"^!^    landscape,    before   us  the  iridescent  waters,    reflecting    a 
^•^  L^   }     cloudless   sk)-,    while    the    coast    to    the    southward    was 
broken  into  curves  b}-  the  harbors  of  the  fishing   towns. 
-^  V     Past    Castellamare,     Vico    Equense     and     Sorrento    we 
'  •  steamed  and,    in    less  than    three  hours,    dropped    anchor 

at  Capri,  "Bluest  of  the  Isles."  Her  turreted  rocks  and  smiling 
vales  are  girdled  by  a  sea  so  intense  in  color  that  it  seems  as  if 
some  one  had  emptied  into  it  tons  of  indigo.  The  ancient  villas  of 
Augustus  and  Tiberius,  and  the  mediaeval  castle  of  Barbarossa  are 
scarcely  to  be  distinguished  from  the  crags  on  which  the}'  were 
built,    so  completelv  have  they  fallen  into  decay. 

The  town  of  Capri  lies  between  the  two  highest  points  of  the 
island,  Lo  Capo  and  Mt.  Solaro.  A  winding  road,  hewn  in  the 
rock  and  as  smooth  as  a  marble  floor,  leads  up  to  the  white  dwell- 
ings of  Anacapri  on  a  small  plateau,  420  ft.  above.  Steps  cut  in 
the  side  of  the  cliffs  were  formerly  the  only  means  of  access  to 
the  upper  village. 

Upon  arriving  at  the  principal  landing-place,  we  found  that  the 
porters  from  the  different  hotels  were  women,  who  shouldered  the 
baggage  of  the  passengers,  even  large  trunks,  with  the  ease  of 
strong  men.  The  feminine  portion  of  the  communit\-  does  much 
of  the  heavy  work,  including  the  coaling  of  vessels.  The  physique 
of  these  women   is  magnificent. 

Most  of  the  streets  are  mere  paths,  which  are  ver\'  steep,  and 
often  ascend  in  steps.  They  are  about  wide  enough  to  allow  three 
people  to  walk  abreast,  and  run  between  hi,s:^h  walls,  inclosing 
vineyards  and  groves  of    lemon    and    orange  trees.      Rills  ot    water 

94 


/•ROM  CAPRI   TO  BRIXD/SI 


95 


trickle  down  the  sides  of  tlic  stops,  refreshing:;'  the   patclies  ot   moss 
in  their  crevices. 

Starry-eyed  girls,  tall  and  supple  as  willows,  add  a  charming 
bit  of  life  to  the  ]iicture.  Tlie  prettiest  creature,  with  a  can  of 
milk  poised    upon    her    head,    stopped    and    stared  at  us  as  we  sat 


MARINA  GRANDE  AT  CAPRI 


resting  on  a  low  stone  wall.  She  examined  every  detail  of  our 
dress,  with  evident  enjoyment.  How  I  longed  to  take  her  back  to 
America  with  me!  But  the  beauty  of  this  rose  of  the  rocks  would 
doubtless  be  lost  if  transplanted  to  a  foreign  soil.  Nearly  all  the 
women  wear  long,  silver  hairpins,  ornamented  with  a  hand  grasp- 
ing a  lilv. 

We  were  up  at  five  o'clock  this  morning  to  see  the  sunrise, 
and  found  that  Apollo  had  already  sent  couriers  to  announce  his 
coming.  Aurora's  flaming  banners  of  orange  and  scarlet  could  be 
seen  through  the  purple  haze,  just  lifting  from  the  pale  gray  sea. 
Some  coral  fishers,  putting  out  from  the  quay,  left  a  trail  of  silver 
in  the  wake  of  their  boat. 


g6  FROM  CAPRI  TO  BRIXDISI 

Before  breakfast  we  strolled  into  a  lemon  grove  connected  with 
the  hotel.  The  branches  of  the  trees  are  twisted  like  grape  vines, 
and  as  they  reach  the  roof  of  the  arbor,  upon  which  they  are 
trained,  they  sjiread  out  like  umbrellas,  the  yellow  fruit  dangling 
beneath,  within  reach  of  the  hand.  Near  b}'  is  an  old  house.  On 
the  doorsteps  sat  a  young  girl  roasting  coffee  over  a  charcoal  fire, 
shaking  the  green  berries  in  a  sheet-iron  cylinder.  It  is  needless 
to  say  that  the  cofifee  was  badly  scorched.  Perhaps  this  method 
of  ]ireparing  it  accounts  for  the  disagreeable  taste  of  Italian  colTee, 
which   we  are  unable  to  drink. 

The  town  of  Capri  centers  in  a  small  piazza,  surrounded  by 
the  public  buildings,  church,  shops  and  artists'  studios.  We  en- 
joxed  a  visit  to  one  of  the  latter,  that  of  Carlo  di  Giuseppe,  a 
native  of  the  island,  and  one  of  its  best  artists.  He  has  some 
charming  pictures  of  the  coast,  as  well  as  portraits  of  American 
girls.  His  work  shows  great  talent.  My  companion  secured  a  view 
of  the  Marina  Grande*  and  a  study  of  a  Venetian  girl,  which  are 
to  be  forwarded  to    I^ondon  to  await  our  arrival. 

On  the  drive  up  to  Anacapri,  we  saw  a  hollow  in  the  clifif 
about  fifteen  feet  above  our  heads.  It  was  a  shrine,  containing  a 
life-size  image  of  the  Virgin,  before  which  was  suspended  a  lantern. 
Beside  the  figure  hung  a  wooden  leg.  We  learned  afterward  that 
it  was  an  offering  from  a  person  who  had  Ijcen  injured  near  the 
spot.  It  seemed  such  a  long,  hard  climb  to  the  ruins  of  the  Castle 
of  Barbarossa,  that  we  concluded  to  take  our  driver's  advice  and 
view  its  beauties  from  the  outside.  It  was  named  after  the  Turkish 
corsair  who  destroyed  it,  a  red-bearded  [barba  rossa)  pirate  of  the 
15th  century.  The  most  beautiful  wild  flowers  cover  the  mountains, 
of  which  there  are  nearly  eight  hundred  species. 

Of  course  every  one  who  goes  to  this  ' '  botanists'  paradise  "  visits 
the  Blue  Grotto,  the  most  w<,Midcrtul  of  the  numerous  caverns  on 
the  coast.  The  best  light  can  be  obtained  about  noon.  Accord- 
ingly, before  that  time,  we  set  out  in  a  small  boat  rowed  by  two 
stalwart  islanders,  and  in  three-quarters  of  an  hour  had  reached 
the    entrance.     As    the  waves    recede    from  the    rocks  one  can  see 

*  Main  landing  or  quay. 


FROM  CAPRI   TO  HRIXDISI  1^7 

branches  of  red  coral  clinging  to  them  like  moss.  The  entrance 
to  the  Grotto  is  verv  low,  scarcely  three  feet  in  height,  and  as  we 
approached  it,  the  men  re(]ueste(l  us  to  lie  down  in  the  bottom 
of  the  boat,  to  axoid  being  struck  l)\  the  overhanging  rocks.  Wc 
obeyed,  and  with  a  powerful  stroke  of  the  oars,  a  whoop  and  a 
duck  of  the  head,  we  were  pushed  through  the  opening. 

The  interior  is  a  vaulted  chamber,  fortv-one  feet  Ingli,  seventv- 


CASTLE  OF  BARBAROSSA,  CAPRI 


five  feet  long  and  one  hundred  ieet  wide,  in  the  broadest  ]iart. 
The  effect  of  the  blue  refraction  of  the  light  on  walls  and  boats 
and  the  intensitv  of  this  color  in  the  wat(>r  is  indescribable.  The 
opening  through  w-hich  we  entered  the  Grotto  is  only  the  top  of 
a  tremendous  arch.  The  rays  of  the  sun  are,  therefore,  transmitted 
from  beneath,  colored  b}-  the  water  and  reflected  upon  the  walls 
and  roof  of  the  cavern.  The  water  within  is  so  clear  that  Hsh 
can  be  seen  on  the  sandy  bottom.  A  flat  rock,  connected  at  one 
time  with  a  passage  under  the  mountain,  is  used  as  a  "jumping-off 
place"  by  a  small  boy.  He  swims  about,  to  show  tourists  the 
7 


gS  FROM  CAPRI  TO  BRIXDIST 

silvery  appearance  assumed  by  all  objects  in  the  water.  The  sur- 
face of  the  sea  near  the  Grotto  is  covered  with  star  and  jelly  fish, 
while  delicate  seaweeds,  mosses  and  waving  anemones  are  found  in 
great  varieties  in  the  depths  below. 

Women  selling  coral  haunt  the  quays  and  hotels.  A  bunch 
of  tt'u  strings  costs  onlv  a /m?.  There  are  about  4,  700  inhabitants 
on  the  island,  emploved  chiefly  in  fishing  and  in  cultivating  fruit 
and  the  vine. 

In  crossing  from  Capri  to  Sorrento,  it  seems  as  if  one  were 
going  to  explore  a  town  of  cliff-dwellers,  the  white  houses  built  on 
the  summit  of  the  rocks  are  so  secure  from  intrusion.  Narrow 
gorges  form  natural  pathways  from  the  sea,  inland.  The  supersti- 
tious people  believe  that  the  ravines  are  inhabited  by  a  race  of 
dwarfs.  We  landed  at  the  foot  of  the  cliffs,  and  instead  of  taking 
the  cable  tramwav,  climbed  the  stone  steps  to  the  town  al)ove; 
now  and  then  pausing  to  catch  views  of  the  beautiful  island  we 
had  just  left.  A  tiny  sail  close  to  its  shores  again  suggested  lines 
from  T.  Buchanan   Read's  poem: — 

"  M\'  winged  boat. 
A  bird  afloat. 
Swims  round  the  purple  peaks  remote: — " 

After  selecting  a  delightful  room  at  t)ne  of  the  hotels,  shaded 
by  purple  wistaria  in  full  bloom,  we  walked  in  company  with  two 
Boston  girls  over  to  the  Piazza,  where  there  is  a  marble  statue  of 
Torquato  Tasso,  the  celebrated  poet,  who  was  born  at  Sorrento  in 
1544.  Wood  mosaics,  the  manufacture  of  which  has  become  an  art 
in  this  town,  fill  the  shop  windows.  From  the  road,  little  can  be  seen 
of  the  dwellings  and  luxuriant  gardens,  as  high  walls  inclose  them. 
The  beautiful  villa  of  F.  Marion  Crawford,  the  novelist,  is  situated 
on  a  bluff   overlooking  the  sea. 

In  the  e\ening,  at  Hotel  \'ictoria,  we  witnessed  the  tarantella, 
the  national  dance,  whicli  became  a  mania  at  one  time,  but  is  now 
merelv  an  amusement.  It  originated  at  Tarentum,  where  the  venom- 
ous  tarantula  spider  is  found.  The  bite  of  this  insect  is  said  to 
cause  madness,  and  music  and  dancing  are  believed  to  be  the  only 
antidotes  to  the  poison. 


FRO.\r  CAPRI  TO  PR/XDfS;/ 


99 


There  were  about  Hftv  spectators  in  the  balh-ooin  wlien  the 
company  of  dancers  entered;  twelve  young  men  and  twelve  girls, 
typical  southern  Italians,  firm  of  flesh  and  ruddy  of  skin.  There 
are  a  number  of  figures  in  the  dance,  which  is  as  lively  as  a  quad- 
rille, though  the  posing  of  the  dancers  calls  to  mind  the  minuet. 
The  men  wear  red  vehet  knee  breeches,  white  shirts,  green  velvet 
vests,  silk  sashes  with  long  ends,  tasselled  caps,  colored  silk  hose  and 


SORRENTO 

low  slippers;  the  girls,  light  silk  skirts  and  bodices,  short  bolero 
jackets,  sashes,  aprons,  fancy  stockings  and  low  shoes.  During  the 
dance  the  long  sashes  were  wound  and  unwound  about  the  swa}ing 
figures,    producing  a  very  pretty  effect. 

Sorrento  is  a  favorite  winter  resort  for  English  and  Americans, 
and,  as  it  is  never  very  hot  in  summer,  is  frequented  at  that  sea- 
son by  Italians. 

The  next  morning  we  took  a  carriage,  shared  by  the  young 
ladies  whom  I  have  mentioned,  and  drove  to  Salerno.  The.se  girls 
are    travelling  through   Italy  alone,    though    the   eldest    is    not    over 


100  FROM  CAPRI  TO  BRIXDIST 

twenty  years  old.  They  tell  us  that  they  have  had  no  trouble 
whatever,  and  feel  as  safe  as  if  in  their  native  town,  which  cer- 
tainly speaks  volumes  for  the  chivalry  of  Italian   men. 

Every  bend  in  the  coast  from  Sorrento  to  Salerno  presents  a 
new  picture.  We  rolled  along  the  smooth  road  cut  in  the  side  of 
the  mountain,  above  the  sea,  in  and  out,  through  tunnels  and  quaint 
villages.  In  many  houses  there  are  openings  similar  to  port  holes, 
left,  we  were  told,  in  the  plastered  walls  by  the  removal  of  the 
scaffolding.  Air  thus  penetrates  the  wof)dwork,  preventing  dry  rot. 
Near  one  of  the  towns  were  some  little  girls  spinning  b)-  the  way- 
side. They  do  not  use  a  wheel,  but  work  with  a  distaff"  and 
spindle  carried  in  the  hand.  A  mountain  torrent  dashes  down  a 
ravine  at  Arienzo,  while  towering  cliiTs  jut  out,  in  some  places  form- 
ing canopies  over  the  hard,  white  drive.  The  mountains  all  along 
the  coast  are  terraced  and  covered  with  lemon  and  olive  trees,  or 
fields  of  grain.  Numerous  watch-towers  point  to  a  barbarous  age 
when  pirates  infested  the  seas.  The  people  of  this  region  are, 
many  of  them,  ver}'  poor.  Some  l)urro\v  in  the  sides  of  the  moun- 
tains,   as  do  the  gypsies  in   Spain. 

It  was  high  noon  before  we  had  our  first  view  of  Amalfi,  once 
an  important  seaport  town,  which  became  an  independent  state 
under  the  presidency  of  a  doge.  In  the  12th  centurv,  the  sea  began 
to  undermine  the  town,  and,  after  a  terrible  inundation  in  the  14th 
century,  its  imjxirtance  declined,  the  population  dwindling  from  50,- 
000  to    7,000. 

The  principal  point  ot  interest  in  Amalti  is  the  old  monastery 
(now  a  hotel)  which  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Capucliins  in 
1583.  It  stands  in  the  hollow  of  a  cliff  rising  from  the  sea  to  a 
height  of  230  ft.  A  large  grotto  beside  it  was  used  as  a  sort  of 
Calvary,  and  still  contains  three  wooden  crosses.  To  the  arms  of 
the  central  one  are  fastened  the  cup,  the  nails  and  the  sponge, 
tokens  of  Christ's  suffering.  The  rooms  of  the  monastery  open 
upon  fine  cloisters  connected  with  a  chapel. 

The  remains  of  St.  Andrew  are  said  to  rest  in  the  cathedral 
of  that  name;  but  we  were  unable  to  go  there,  on  account  of  a 
storm,  which  gathered  while  we  were  at  dinner.  Lookiny'  out  of 
the  window  we  could    see  fishermen  taking  in   the   nets   spread  out 


/•A'O.i/  CAriii  7'0  nh'/xn/sf 


lOI 


upon  the  l)i_;uli  ti)(lr\-.  The  waves  dashed  a,2;ainst  the  rocks  heiieath 
us,  bri'akiiii;  into  clouds  oi'  foam,  while  the  murmur  ot  the  sea 
changed  to  a  low  growl,  gi\ing  t-vidence  of  the  increasing  wrath  of 
old  Neptune.  After  waiting  an  hour  in  the  vain  hope  that  the 
weather  would  clear,  wc  engaged  another  vehicle  and  jnished  on. 
A  cold  north  wind  accompanied  the  blinding  raiii,  and  1)_\'  the  time 
we  came  in  sight  of  Salerno,  there  were  little  "nicks"  even  in  the 
t;'mper  of  mv  companion,    who  is  proverbially  angelic;  while   I   w"is 


2  fsi'\ 


positively  vixenish.  However,  a  cup  of  strong  hot  tea  revived  our 
flagging  spirits,  and  when  we  boarded  the  train  for  Brindisi,  on  the 
following  morning,  wc  had  forgotten  past  discomforts. 

In  crossing  the  Apennine  range,  the  panorama  changes  con- 
stantly. It  seemed  as  if  we  were  scarcely  out  of  one  tunnel  and 
had  caught  a  glimpse  of  a  fertile  valley  where  peasant  women  in 
short  skirts,  scarlet  bodices  and  Hat  white  headdresses,  were  working, 
when  we  were  again  plunged  into  darkness.  Then  we  would  come 
out  upon  a  marshy  plain  planted  with  eucalyptus  trees  and  \ine- 
yards  surrounded  bv  cactus  hedges. 

It  was  nearly  dark  to-night  when  the  train  pulled  into  Brindisi, 
the  western  terminus  of  several  lines  of    steamers  which  jily  between 


I02 


FROM  CAPRI  TO  BR/XD/SI 


Italy  and  the  East.  Brindisi  is  the  Roman  Brundisium,  meaning 
stag's  head,  as  its  harbor  is  formed  hke  a  pair  of  antlers.  It  was  a 
celebrated  port  even  in  ancient  times,  and  terminated  the  Appian 
Way  leading  from  Rome.  Virgil  died  here  in  19  B.  C.  Here, 
too,  the  Crusaders  often  assembled  to  embark  for  the   Holy   Land. 

The  steamer  Ganges  of  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  line  has 
just  arrived  from  Port  Said,  and  we  have  visited  her  cabins  and 
decks  which  are  luxuriously  fitted  up. 

We  are  now  at  the  Grand  Hotel,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the 
Austrian  Lloyd  steamship  which  is  to  bear  us  across  the  Adriatic 
to  the  classic  shores  of  Greece. 


CIIAPTEK   XI 


THE  IONIAN   ISLES 


Ip^-T^HE  mornint;  after  we  left  Brindisi  was  Ijris^lit  and  sunny, 
the  sea  calm  and  the  jiasscn^ers  on  the  Aehille,  eom- 
panionable.  We  formed  the  accjuaintance  of  a  deli,t;ht- 
ful  family,  consisting  of  Professor  A.,  oceujiying  the 
chair  of  Greek  at  Colgate  University,  his  wife  and  sister 
who  were  on  their  way  to  Athens.  About  eleven  o'clock 
the  outlines  of  Alt.  San  Salvatore,  on  the  island  ot  Corfu, 
became   visible,  and  at   noon   we  drojiped  anchor  in   the  strait. 

The  Corinthians  established  a  colon\-  at  Corfu  in  734  Ix  C. , 
but,  in  22Q  B.  C,  the  island  came  into  the  possession  of  the 
Romans.  When  the  Byzantine*  Empire  was  divided  in  1205,  the 
\'enetians  received  Corfu;  subsequentlw  the  French  and  the  English 
claimed  it,  but  in  1863  it  was  ceded  bv  England  to  the  Greeks. 
The  town  of  Corfu  is  now  the  capital  of  a  province  including  the 
islands  of  Corfu,  Paxos,  Antipaxcs  and  Leucas.  Corfu  is  the  only 
island  of  this  pro\ince  that  has  a  perennial  stream,  the  river  Ales- 
songi. 

Upon  landing,  the  Professor  engaged  carriages  for  our  party, 
which  two  gentlemen  from  Chicago  had  joined.  As  usual,  we  drove 
at  once  to  the  bank,  where  we  exchanged  our  English  gold  for 
drachmes,  f  "  shinplasters, "  worth,  at  present,  about  twelve  cents 
in  our  money.  The  ten  drachme  bank  note  is  cut  in  two  and  each 
half  is  worth  five.  The  two  pieces  probably  never  meet  again.  The 
coppers,  a  hundred  of  which  equal  a  drachme,  are  called  lepta. 

Crossing  the  square  from  the  bank,  we  entered  the  old  church 
of  St.  Spiridion,  a  saint  greatly  revered  bv  the  Greeks.  He  was 
once  Bishop  of    Cyprus,   and  was    persecuted    by  Diocletian.      His 


?i6-i205  A.  D. ;  seat,  Byzantium,  now  Constantinople. 


f  Greek  currency. 


103 


I04  THE  IONIAN  ISLES 

body  was  brought  to  Corfu  in  1489,  where  it  reposes  in  a  silver 
coffin  surrounded  by  hghted  candles,  near  the  high  altar  of  this 
church.  Three  times  a  year,  the  coffin  is  borne  through  the  streets 
with  great  solemnity. 

As  we  stood  before  it  admiring  the  embossed  silver  and  ex- 
quisite paintings  on  porcelain  which  adorn  the  lid,  a  peasant  woman 
entered,  who,  crossing  herself  three  times,  knelt  on  the  steps  of 
the  platform;  then,  rising,  pressed  her  lips  to  each  picture  in 
turn.  Her  hair  brought  over  a  large  cushion  projecting  over  the 
left  ear,  was  wound  around  her  head  and  draped  with  a  thin 
white  veil. 

The  decorations  of  the  Greek  Catholic  churches  are  much 
simpler  and  richer  than  those  of  the  Roman.  No  "graven  images" 
are  permitted;  consequently,  the  absence  of  statuary  or  rehefs  is 
marked. 

I'^rom  St.  Spiridion,  we  drove  through  narrow  streets  to  the 
Esplanade,    where  the  Royal  Palace  is  situated. 

Thence,  a  fine  drive,  bordered  on  one  side  by  gnarled  olive  trees, 
led  us  to  the  summer  villa  of  the  King  and  Queen  of  Greece,  where 
we  walked  through  splendid  gardens  filled  with  tropical  foliage. 
There  were  aloes,  magnolias,  palms  and  papyri,  as  well  as  flowers 
and  statuary.  A  custodian  conducted  us  through  the  principal  rooms 
of  the  palace,  furnished  with  the  utmost  simplicity,  though  every- 
thing is  of  the  finest  quality. 

After  plucking  a  few  sprigs  of  the  periwinkle  that  grows  in 
abundance  along  the  paths,  we  went  on  to  the  Canone,  or  one-gun 
battery,  at  the  end  of  the  drive,  which  commands  a  view  of  the 
east  coast.  Opposite  to  the  entrance  of  the  old  Hyllaean  harbor, 
now  unused,  lies  the  isle  of  Ponticonisi,  on  which  is  a  small  chapel. 
Tradition  describes  it  as  the  Pha^acian*  ship  that  bore  Odysseus  f  to 
Ithaca,  and  which  was  afterward  changed  into  stone  by  Poseidon, 
the  god  of  the  sea.  On  the  shore,  near  the  brook  Cressida,  is  the 
place  where,  according  to  Homer,  the  Princess  Nausicaa  first  saw 
Odysseus.     The  story  runs  thus: — 

When  the  hero  was  wrecked  near  the  island  of  the  Phseacians, 

*  A  mythical  people, 
f  Ulysses. 


THE  IONIAN  ISLES 


105 


FORTIFICATIONS   AT    CORFU 

he  swam  ashore,  and,  being  exhausted  and  naked,  made  a  bed  of 
leaves  in  a  thicket  where  he  fell  into  a  sound  sleep.  The  Princess 
Nausicaa,  with  her  maidens,  came  to  the  brook  to  wash  the  linen 
of  the  palace  and,  while  it  was  drying  on  the  beach,  engaged  in 
a  game  of  ball.  In  the  midst  of  their  sport,  the  ball  flew  into 
the  water.  A  merry  laugh,  half  a  scream,  awoke  the  sleeper,  who, 
covering  himself  with  a  leafv  bough,  rushed  in  the  direction  of  the 
sound.  At  the  sight  of  him  the  handmaidens  fled,  but  the  I'rinress, 
true  to  her  royal  blood,  stood  her  ground.  Odysseus  saluted  her  in 
these  words:  —  "Is  it  a  goddess  or  a  mortal  that  I  see  before  me?" 
The  Princess  conducted  the  wanderer  to  the  city,  where  he  was 
properly  clothed,  and,  later,  received  bv  the  King,  to  whom  he 
related  his  adventures.  Subsequently,  King  Alcinous  sent  Odysseus 
to  Ithaca  in  one  of  his  own  ships,  which,  on  the  return  voyage, 
Poseidon  turned  into  stone. 

Before  reembarking  we  drank  Turkish  coffee  in  front  of  a 
cafe  on  the  quay,  tasted  sweet  lemons  which  were  insipid  and 
bought  some  specimens  of  carved  wood  from  the  peasants. 


io6 


THE  IONIAN  ISLES 


From  Corfu  we  steamed  past  a  number  of  small  islands,  nearly 
all  of  them  inhabited,  and  in  about  three  hours  reached  the  island 
of  Paxos,  said  to  produce  the  best  oil  in  western  Greece. 

A  k'ljfend   runs    that  at  the    moment  when    the    Saviour's    soul 


ISLAND  OF    PONTICONISI,   OFF  CORFU 


left  liis  body,  a  group  of  sailors  on  this  island  heard  a  great  cry, 
"Pan  is  dead."  Pan  was  the  god  of  Nature,  so,  Christ's  cruci- 
fixion, which  was  followed  by  the  spread  of  Christianity,  meant  a 
deathblow  to  Paganism. 

Near  Actium,  at  the  entrance  to  the  Ambracian  Gulf,  was  fought 
the  famous  naval  battle  between  Mark  Anton}'  and  Octavius  in 
3 1  F).  C.  The  defeat  of  Antonv  was  followed  bv  his  flight  with 
Cleopatra,  his  royal  mistress,    and   their  tragic  death. 


THE   I  OX  I  AN  ISLES 


107 


The  soutlurn  iioiiU  of  Leucas  is  known  as  Sappho's  Leap, 
whence  the  Greek  poetess,  overcome  by  unretiuited  love,  is  said  to 
have  thrown  luMself  into  the  sea.  After  passin;,'  this  point,  we  came 
in   si,<;ht  of  Ithara,  ihv  island  of  Odysseus. 

At  one  of  tin-  smaller  islands  a  number  ot  liorricblookint;  Turks 
came  aboard,  and,  \\\\v\\  I  saw  their  evil  faces,  1  could  believe  ail 
the  stories  of  the  Armenian  atrocities.  They  slept  on  the  deck, 
without  extra  covering-,  except  what  Mother  Earth  had  suppiic^l. 
Not  even  the  thrillin'^  lines  of  Byron's  Childe  Harold,  which  the 
Professor   read  to  us,    could  o\ercome  my  repulsion. 


m- 


CHAPTER   XII 


FROM    PATRAS  TO  ATHENS 


E  were  rudely  awakened  at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning 
I)}-  the  rolling  of  the  chain  when  we  cast  anchor  at 
Patras,  and  we  had  ravenous  appetites  by  the  time 
breakfast  was  ready  at  the  hotel.  The  train  left  for 
Athens  about  eight  o'clock,  and  that  hour  found  us 
comfortably  ensconced  in  an  open,  second  class  com- 
partment. The  Professor  proved  a  friend  indeed, 
alternately  teaching  us  Greek  sentences,  which  he 
thought  we  might  find  useful,  and  explaining  points  of 
interest  on  the  way.  A  Greek  friend  of  his,  a  physician,  had  joined 
us  at  Patras,  and  made  the  most  of  this  opportunity  to  speak  English 
with  Mrs.  M.  As  his  vocabulary  was  limited,  there  was  a  halt  now 
and  then  in  the  conversation;  whereupon,  the  Professor  would 
translate  a  Greek  word,  thus  enabling  Doctor  C.  to  finish  his  re- 
marks, and  causing  no  little  merriment. 

Our  route  lay  along  the  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  Corinth.  At 
Aegium,  the  first  important  station,  we  saw  adobe  houses  and  fences, 
the  top  of  the  latter  covered  with  grass  and  mud,  making  an  over- 
hanging ridge  which  protected  the  clay  bricks  from  the  rain.  In 
the  vineyards  on  this  coast  of  the  Peloponnesus,*  grow  the  small 
grapes  which  we  call  currants  and  use  in  cakes  and  mince  meat. 
They  are  dried  by  the  sun,  in  the  white  fields  around  the  numer- 
ous villages.  The  waters  of  the  gulf  show  three  shades  of  blue, — 
close  to  the  shore  a  pale  azure,  and  then,  a  sapphire  deepening  to 
a  perfect  peacock  blue,  near  the  opposite  shore.  You  cannot  con- 
ceive of  the  wondrous  depth  and  beauty  of  this  coloring.  It  far 
surpasses  even  that  of  the  Bay  of  Naples. 

The    Corinth    of    to-day    (4,100    inhabitants)  contains    little    to 


*  Island  of  Pelops. 


108 


FRO.]f  r.lTRAS  TO  ATHENE 


109 


interest  the  traveller,  unless  it  may  be  the  delieious  niarmaladc  and 
little  cakes  which  are  a  s})ecialt\'  at  the  station.  Old  Corinth,  three 
and  a  half  miles  to  the  southwest,  could  be  seen  plainly  from  the 
train,  as  well  as  Acro-Corinth,  the  citadel  which  towers  above  it. 
Until  the  Persian  wars  it  was  a  famous  city,  almost  unrivalled  as 
a  center  of  trade,  and  celebrated  tor  the  manufacture  of  jnu'iilc 
dye    and    woolen    stuffs.      In  46  B.  C  the   Romans  founded  a  ci\'il 


ACRO-CORINTH 


colony  on  the  site  of  the  town  that  had  been  razed  to  the  ground 
by  their  ancestors,  and  it  immediately  became  prosperous.  This 
was  the  Corinth  where  St.  Paul  preached  and  to  which  he  directed 
his  Epistles, — a  wealthy  commercial  cit}',  where  luxury  and  immo- 
rality held  full  sway.  Later,  Corinth  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
Turks,  but  finally  was  restored  to  the  Greeks.  The  summit  of  the 
rock  called  Acro-Corinth  is  1,886  ft.  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
There,  are  the  remains  of  mediaeval  fortifications,  a  Turkish  oratory 
and    the  ruins  of    a  temple  of    Aphrodite.*     The  view,    which    em- 

*  Venus. 


no 


FROM  PATH  AS  TO  ATHENS 


braces  the  mountainous  districts  on  both  sides  of  the  gulf,  is  superb. 
On  the  east  side  of  the  height  is  a  clear  spring,  which,  according 
to  an  ancient  legend,  gushed  forth  at  a  stroke  of  the  hoof  of  the 
winged  horse,  Pegasus. 

How  my  heart  leaped  when,  a  little  later,  I  gazed  for  the  first 
time  upon  Mt.  Parnassus,  sacred  to  the  Oracle  of  Delphi.*  It 
looked  like  some  sleeping  creature,  in  the  bend  of  whose  neck  lay 
Delphi,  but,  alas!    on  the  opposite  side  from  us. 

Delphi  was  once  the  principal  seat  of  the  worship  of  Apollo, 
but  its  glorious  marble  temple,  theater  and  stadium  have  long  since 


CORiNTH    CANAL 


crumbled  into  dust.  It  is  said  that  the  grandeur  of  the  mountain 
scenery,  the  cold  springs,  and  especially  a  natural  fissure,  whence 
rcse  a  narcotic  vapor,  led  to  the  erection  of  a  temple  to  Apollo. 
Hither,  thousands  came  yearly  to  consult  the  Oracle,  who  could 
only  be  interviewed  in  the  Delphic  month,  corresponding  to  our 
February  and  Marcli.  Her  prophecies  were  interpreted  to  the 
people  by  the  priests,  who  alone  understood  them.  The  Oracle, 
whose    advice    was    sought    in    all    affairs    of    importance,    sat    on    a 

*  A  priestess  supposed  to  voice  Apollo's  replies  to  queries. 


FROM  PATRAS  TO  ATIIEXS  iii 

golden  tripod,  placed  across  the  fissure  over  wliicli  the  temple  was 
built.  The  most  distinguished  philosophers  and  poets  were  among 
the  pilgrims  to  this  shrine.  According  to  tradition,  Delphi  was 
formerly  the  lair  of  the  dragon,  Pytho,  slain  by  Apollo.  The  Romans 
looted  the  temple  man_v  times,  Nero  alone  carrying  off  more  than 
500  brazen  images.  The  famous  stone  called  Omphalus,  or  navel 
stone,  supposed  to  mark  the  center  of  the  earth,  was  kept  willi  the 
sacred  fire  in  the  cella  or  inner  sanctuar}-  of  the  temple. 

The  canal  through  the  Isthmus  of  Corinth  was  opened,  August 
6th,  1S93.  The  idea  of  cutting  such  a  passage  was  entertained  by 
Nero,  who  even  began  the  work.  The  present  canal  was  begun 
by  a  French  company,  who,  in  18S9,  left  it  to  be  completed  by  the 
Greeks.  There  are  two  breakwaters,  each  785  ft.  long,  and  two 
lighthouses  to  protect  the  western  entrance.  The  channel  is  100  ft. 
wide,  three  and  a  half  miles  long  and  twenty-six  feet  deep;  for  a 
distance  of  one  mile  it  is  cut  through  solid  rock. 

As  we  neared  Athens,  we  could  see  the  quarries  of  Pentelicus, 
which  yielded  the  marble  of  which  the  ancient  temples  are  built. 
These  quarries  are  still  worked  and  there  is  no  sign  of  their  becom- 
ing exhausted.  Soon  we  were  on  our  feet,  with  eyes  straining  for- 
ward and  the  lines  of  B3-ron  ringing  in  our  ears: — 

"Fair  Greece,  sad  relic  of  departed  worth, 
Immortal,  though  no  more,  though  fallen,  great." 

There,  outlined  against  the  blue  of  heaven  stood  the  Acropolis,* 
for  centuries  the  mighty  throne  of  that  perfect  work  of  man's  chisel 
and  compass, — the  Parthenon.  We  involuntarily  offered  our  homage 
to  the  man  to  whose  wisdom  and  perseverance  the  world  owes  this 
treasure, — the  statesman,    Pericles. 

*  The  citadel. 


CHAPTER   XIII 

ATHENS 

.  -^N  our  arrival  at  Athens  at  four  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon, we  went  at  once  to  the  Hotel  Minerva.  Mi- 
nerva is  the  Roman  name  for  Athena,  the  patron 
goddess  of  the  city.  Mythology  relates  that  during 
the  reign  of  Cccrops,  a  dispute  arose  between  Athena, 
goddess  of  war,  and  Poseidon  as  to  the  ]iossession  of 
Athens.  A  council  of  the  gods  decreed  that  the  city 
should  belong  to  the  one  who  offered  the  best  gift  to  men.  Poseidon 
struck  the  ground  with  his  trident  and  a  salt  spring  welled  up; 
Athena  touched  the  earth  with  her  spear  and  immediately  an  olive 
tree  came    forth;  whereupon,    Athena  secured  the  prize. 

After  dining,  we  took  a  walk  about  the  Place  de  la  Constitu- 
tion, and  then  hung  out  of  our  window  facing  on  Stadium  Street, 
one  of  the  thoroughfares,  to  watch  the  torchlight  procession.  This 
is  the  month,  as  3'ou  know,  when  Greece  celebrates  the  Olympian 
games, — a  revival  of  an  ancient  custom, — and  we  feel  that  we  are 
fortunate  to  be  here,  even  at  the  close  of  the  festival.  The  city 
is  as  gay  as  arches,  evergreens,  flags  and  strings  of  pennants  can 
make  it.  The  arches  span  the  main  streets  at  intervals  of  half  a 
block,  and  are  brilliantly  illuminated  in  the  evening,  thus  forming 
an  avenue  of  light.  The  Greek  flag,  blue  and  white  stripes  with 
a  white  cross,  is  seen  everywhere,  but  those  of  other  nations  are 
not  forgotten.  The  Place  de  la  Constitution,  upon  which  the  royal 
palace  faces,  is  like  a  section  of  Paris.  In  the  center  are  tables 
occupied  by  merry  groups  drinking  lonkoniui*  mastic/ia,-\  or  Turkish 
coffee;  every  one  seems  happy.  Though  the  streets  are  crowded, 
there  is  not  a  shrill    voice,   nor   a    loud    laugh    to    be    heard.      The 

*  Sweetened  gum  and  rose  water, 
f  A  liquor  distilled  from  the  gum  of  the  mastic  tree. 

112 


POSEIDON 


ri4 


A  THENS 


throngs    are    as    decorous   as    those    on    the    main    grounds    of    our 
World's  Fair. 

The  architecture  of  the  city,  in  general,  is  simple.  The 
houses  on  the  principal  streets  are  of  marble  or  stone,  sometimes 
I)oth.  When  of  stone,  they  are  plastered  over  and  painted  in 
shades  of  cream,  chocolate  or  strawberr)-,  the  general  effect 
being  light.  University  Boulevard,  where  a  number  of  important 
buildings  and  costly  homes  are  situated,  is  a  veritable  avenue  of 
marble,  from  the  quarries  of  Hymettus  or  Pentelicus.  The  side- 
walks, treble  the  width  of  an  ordinary  American  walk,  are  composed 


THE    UNIVERSITY,  ATHENS 


of  solid  blocks  of  stone.  The  most  important  of  the  public  build- 
ings are  the  University,  the  Academy  of  Science  and  the  Hospital. 
Of  these,  the  Academy  deserves  special  mention.  It  was  con- 
structed from  the  classic  Greek  designs  of  the  celebrated  architect, 
Hansen  of  Vienna,  at  the  expense  of  Baron  Sina,  and  is  the  most 
beautiful  modern  building  I  ever  expect  to  see.  It  is  of  white 
Pentelic  marble.  Its  Ionic  colonnades  and  sculptured  pediments 
are  combined  with  painting  and  gilding  in  the  most  eff^ective  manner. 
The  student  is  thus  enabled  to  study  the  effect  of  color  on  marble, 
a  kind  of  decoration  frec]uently  employed  by  the  ancients,  the  traces 
of  which  have  now  almost  entirely  disappeared.  Colossal  sitting 
figures  of  Plato  and  Socrates  are  placed  on  either  side  of  the  ffight 


ii6 


A  THENS 


of  steps  leading  to  the  entrance.      Athena  in  fuU  armor,  and  Apollo 
with  his  lyre,  crown  two  detached  columns  in  front. 

Of  the  private  residences,  that  (A  the  late  Dr.  Schliemann,  the 
great  German  excavator  of  Troy  and  ancient  Greek  cities,  is  the 
finest.  Between  the  columns  of  the  loggia  are  Pompeian  decora- 
tions, and  above  the  fagade  is  the  inscription: — "Palace  of  Ilium,""' 


RESIDENCE  OF  DR.   SCHLIEMANN,   ATHENS 

in  Greek,  while  surmounting  the  building  is  a  row  of  gods  and 
goddesses,  their  marble  forms  gleaming  in  the  twilight,  like  a  proces- 
sion of  ghosts. 

In  studying  Greek  temples,  it  is  interesting  to  remember  the 
origin  of  the  various  columns  and  the  difference  between  them. 
The  Doric, f  seen  in  the   Parthenon  and  Theseum,  is  a  fluted  shaft 

*  Greek  name  for  Troy. 

■('  Derived  from  Doris,  founder  of  the  Dorians,  one  of  the  four  great  divisions 
of  the  Greek  race. 


A  TURNS 


17 


diminishing  in  size  from  the  foot  toward  the  top.  The  shaft  has  no 
l)ase,  but  rests  directly  on  tlie  platform.  The  capital  is  composed 
of  two  rather  thin  blocks,  the  lower  one  round  with  oval  edge,  the 
ujipcr  one  scjuare.  The  Doric  column  was  intend(>d  bv  the  Greeks 
to  embody  the  dignity, 
strength  and  simplicity 
of  the  male  form;  the 
Ionic,  *  seen  in  the  Acad- 
emy of  Science,  the  deli- 
cacy and  grace  of  the 
female;  so,  to  the  latter, 
was  added  a  horizontally 
curved  base  representing 
the  sandals  w  o  r  n  1 )  \- 
women,  and  it  was 
crowned  by  a  scroll  or 
volute  to  suggest  hair. 
Corinth  ianf  columns, 
used  in  the  Arch  of  Ha- 
drian, represented  the 
beauty  of  a  maiden  bear- 
ing a  basket  on  her  head. 
The  Corinthian  shaft  is 
elal)orately  fluted,  with 
a  decorated  capital  com- 
posed of  the  leaves  of 
water  plants  headed  by  those  of  the  acanthus  and  the  tendrils 
and  flowers  of  the  honeysuckle. 

The  morning  after  our  arrival,  we  engaged  an  English-speaking 
guide  and  set  out  for  Phalerum,  twenty  minutes'  ride  by  rail  from 
Athens,  where  the  regatta,  the  final  contest  of  the  Olympian 
games,  was  to  take  place.  Phalerum  is  the  next  station  to  the 
Piraeus,  or  port  of  Athens,  and  is  quite  a  seaside  resort.  Many 
wealthy  people  own  villas  along  the  shore,   where   are  also  a  large 

*  Derived    from    Ion,   forefather    of    the    lonians,    another    division    of    the 
Greek  race. 

t  OritrinatinL'  at  Corinth. 


GREEK    MOUNTAINEERS 


ii8  ATHENS 

hotel,  an  open-air  theater  and  a  fine  pier.  The  bathing  and  boat- 
ing in  summer  are  excellent. 

There  were  many  interesting  sights  on  the  beach,  including 
peep-shows,  and  stands  where  loiikouiui  and  a  variet\'  of  little 
cakes  were  sold.  Men  walked  about,  each  with  a  tripod  on  a  pole 
hung  with  colored  beads  and  return-balls  made  of  leather,  or  with 
a  long  stick  strung  with  tempting  crullers  fresh  from  the  bake- 
shop.  Mountaineers  with  their  wives  and  babies  had  come  down 
for  the  day.  The  costume  of  the  men  consisted  of  a  short  ac- 
cordion-iilcated  skirt  of  white  cloth,  worn  over  tights,  long  leggings 
of  coarse  cloth,  cut  out  under  the  knee,  to  allow  free  movement 
of  the  limbs,  a  short  sleeveless  jacket  of  some  colored  stuff,  a 
leather  pouch  and  belt  for  the  heavy -handled  pistol  and  knife, 
and  a  close  red  cap  with  a  long  blue  tassel.  The  women  wore 
skirts  and  coats  of  coarse  white  homespun,  braided  in  black,  and 
yellow  handkerchiefs  tied  over  their  heads  in  the  most  ungrace- 
ful fashion.  In  striking  contrast  were  some  rich  peasant  women 
from  Megara.  One  had  a  white  satin  skirt,  }'ellow  bodice  and  a 
necklace  composed  of  secjuins  reaching  from  her  throat  to  the  hem 
of  her  gown.  Our  guide  estimated  the  cost  of  the  costume  to  be 
$600,  which  he  said  represented  the  fortune  of  her  family. 

Rows  of  seats,  in  the  usual  grand-stand  fashion,  were  on 
either  side  of  the  long  pier,  and  at  the  end,  the  royal  box.  But, 
alas!  though  the  Crown  Prince  and  his  suite  bustled  about  and  looked 
important,  and  the  boats  set  their  sails  and  cruised  up  and  down 
the  course,  the  sea  grew  higher  every  moment.  B\-  eleven  o'clock 
the  wind  was  blowing  a  perfect  gale;  the  committees  were  forced 
to  call  the  regatta  ofT,  to  "fold  up  their  tents,  like  the  Arabs  and 
silently  steal  away,"  with  disgust  plainly  written  upon  each  home- 
turned  face. 

Having  taken  our  guide  for  the  day,  we  concluded  that  it  was 
best  to  make  the  most  of  his  valuable  services,  so  we  repaired  to  the 
Acrojiolis,  a  rrvstalhnc  limestone  plateau  200  ft.  in  height,  and,  in 
spite  (if  the  liercc;  wind,  we  enjoyed  intensely  our  first  afternoon 
around  and  upon   that  historic  ground. 

After  looking  at  the  ruins  of  the  Theater  of  Dionysus,  at  the 
base  of  the   Acropolis,  where  the   masterpieces   of  /Eschylus,   Soph- 


.  /  7y/E.\'S 


iig 


ocles,  Euripides  and  Aristophanes  were  first  represented,  wc;  visited 
the  Odeum  of  Herodes  Atticus,  a  wealthy  Roman,  who  built  this 
theater  as  a  memorial  to  his  wife.  It  was  constructed  for  dra- 
matic and  musical  periormances,  and  accommodated  6000  people. 
As  in  the  Theater  of 
Dionysus,  the  tiers  ol 
seats  were  built  on  the 
rocky  slope  of  the  Acrojv 
o  1  i  s.  Ascending  the 
road  to  the  plateau,  we 
passed  through  the  Beule 
Gate,  named  after  the 
Frenchman  who  discov- 
ered it  under  the  Turkish 
bastions,  where  it  had 
long  been  concealed. 

The  Propylsea,  or 
gatewav  of  the  Acropolis, 
which  lies  in  a  direct  line 
a  little  above  the  Beule 
gate,  is  entirely  of  Pen- 
telic  marble  and  consid- 
ered the  most  important 
secular  work  in  Athens. 
It  was  begun  by  the 
architect,  Mnesicles,  in 
437  R.  C. ,  and  finished 
in  five  years.  It  extends  across  the  west  side  of  the  Acropolis, 
and  consists  of  a  central  gateway  and  two  wings.  The  gateway 
proper  is  pierced  with  five  openings,  before  which,  on  either  side, 
are  Doric  colonnades,  giving  to  the  whole  the  name,  Propylaea, 
"that  which  lies  before  the  gates."  Each  of  these  colonnades  has 
six  columns  in  front  and  was  surmounted  by  a  row  of  three-grooved 
blocks  called  triglyphs,  between  sculptured  metopes,*  the  whole 
crowned   by  a  pediment,  f     The  central   part  of   the   Propylaja   was 

*  The  slabs  between  the  triglvphs. 

I  Triangular,  ornamental  facing  of  a  portico. 


WOMEN    FROM    MEGARA 


I20  ATHENS 

bounded  on  the  north  and  soutli  liy  massive  walls.  The  north 
wing,  the  best  preserved,  contains  a  hall  called  the  Pinacotheca 
from  its  use  as  a  receptacle  for  votive  paintings.  During  the  13th 
century,  the  Franks  converted  this  wing  into  government  offices. 
The  Turkish  pashas  afterward  resided  there,  until  the  central 
structure  was  destroyed  by  an  explosion  of  gunpowder  in   1687. 

Passing  through  the  east  portico  of  the  Propylsea,  we  found  our- 
selves within  the  precincts  of  the  Acropolis,  with  the  perfect  outlines 
of  the  Parthenon  in  full  view.  The  erection  of  this  massive  pile 
of  Pentclic  marble  was,  as  I  have  said,  due  mainly  to  Pericles, 
whose  executive  ability  was  unparalleled.  He  secured  the  necessary 
funds  and  placed  the  construction  of  the  building  in  the  hands  of 
two  clever  architects,  Ictinus  and  Callicrates,  entrusting  the  orna- 
mentation to  his  friend,  Phidias,  who  proved  to  be  the  greatest 
sculptor  of  the  age.  The  work  was  finished  in  438  B.  C.  Surely 
no  pen  could  exaggerate  the  nobility  and  the  dignity  which  clothe 
this  matchless  structure.  All  traces  of  its  many-colored  decorations 
have  disappeared;  only  a  few  fragments  of  its  sculptures  remain; 
but  the  massive  Doric  columns,  and  architrave,*  the  symmetrical 
metopes  and  pediments  are  combined  with  such  masterly  knowledge 
of  construction  and  harmony  that  the  effect  is  soul-satisfying.  All 
the  columns  swell  in  the  center  and  lean  a  trifle  toward  the  interior, 
producing  an  impression  of  elasticit)-,  most  attractive  to  the  eye. 
Forty-six  of  these  pillars  form  the  portico  of  the  temple  and  sur- 
round the  wall  of  the  cella.  Along  the  top  of  the  wall,  within  the 
portico,  ran  a  magnificent  sculptured  frieze.  It  portrayed  the  citi- 
zens of  Athens  on  their  way  to  the  temple,  to  present  to  the 
goddess  Athena  a  saffron-colored  robe  woven  by  Athenian  virgins; 
a  ceremony  performed  every  four  years.  The  east  portico  con- 
tained the  sacred  vessels  and  votive  offerings,  while  a  small  room 
back  of  the  cella  served  as  a  storehouse  for  the  national  treasure. 

At  one  end  of  the  cella,  and  facing  the  door  into  the  pronaos,f 
stood  the  splendid  statue  of  the  goddess  Athena  by  Phidias.  It 
was  thirty-nine  feet  in  height  and  made  of  wood,  covered  with  some 
plastic    material.      Plates    of   ivory    represented    the    flesh,   and    the 

*The  part  resting  immediately  on  the  columns, 
j-  A  porch  of  a  temple. 


122  ATHENS 

draperies  were  of  solid  gold.  The  eyes  of  the  figure  were  of  marble, 
painted  to  look  as  natural  as  possible.  The  value  of  the  metal 
used  was  estimated  at  forty-four  talents*  of  gold.  In  times  of  war 
the  gold  was  removed  and  used,  but  when  prosperity  returned,  it 
was  replaced.  One  hand  supported  a  statue  of  Victory,  six  feet 
high,  while  the  other  rested  on  a  shield.  The  square  of  dark-col- 
ored stone  on  which  the  pedestal  rested  can  still  be  seen.  Michaelis, 
in  his  work  on  the  Parthenon,  mentions  a  raised  platform  in  front 
of  this  statue,  on  which  the  victors  in  the  Panathenaean  contests 
mounted  to  receive  the  prizes,  generally  golden  chaplets  and  vases 
of  olive  oil,  from  the  hand  of  the  goddess,   as   it  were. 

In  I  So  I,  Lord  Elgin,  the  British  embassador  to  Greece,  secured 
from  the  government  a  permit  to  remove  "a  few  blocks  of  stone 
with  inscriptions  and  figures."  With  this  Himsy  authority,  he 
quietly,  but  effectually,  secured  the  pediments,  some  of  the  metopes 
and  the  greater  part  of  the  Parthenon  frieze  and  took  them  to 
England.  It  is  said  that  Lord  Elgin  vindicated  himself  of  the 
charge  of  vandalism,  in  a  pamphlet  published  in  1810.  However, 
England  finally  paid  the  Greek  government  ^36,000  for  the  mar- 
bles and  they  are  now  treasured  in  the  British  Museum. 

Near  the  north  edge  of  the  Acropolis  are  the  ruins  of  the 
Erechtheum,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  temple  of  Erechtheus.  It 
was  built  upon  the  sacred  spot  where  Athena  and  Poseidon  strove 
for  the  possession  of  the  city.  The  olive  tree  which  the  goddess 
caused  to  spring  up,  and  the  cleft  made  by  the  trident  of  the  god 
in  producing  the  salt  spring  were  shown  to  worshipers  in  the 
ancient  temple.  The  chamber  entered  from  the  east  portico  was 
especially  dedicated  to  Athena,  the  guardian  of  the  citv;  the  Par- 
thenon, to  the  virgin  Athena.  The  aforesaid  chamber  contained  a 
wooden  figure  of  the  goddess,  said  to  have  fallen  from  heaven. 
Before  this  figure  a  golden  lamp  always  burned.  The  most  inter- 
esting part  of  the  Erechtheum  is  the  Portico  of  the  Caryatides. 
Th("  roof  is  supported  l:)y  the  graceful  forms  of  six  maidens  bearing 
baskets  upon  their  heads.  They  are  said  to  represent  the  maidens 
taken  captive  from  their  father,  the  king  of  Caryse,  in  Arcadia,  be- 


ATHENA 
Supposed   copy  of   the   original   by   Phidias 


124 


A  THENS 


cause  he  sided  wilh  the  Persians.  The  virgins  themselves  were 
bound  as  slaves  to  Athena. 

A  short  distance  from  the  Erechtheum  is  the  stone  platform  on 
which  probably  stood  the  colossal  bronze  statue  of  Athena,  fighter 
in  the  van,  made  by  Phidias,  from  the  spoils  of  the  battle  of  Mara- 
thon. The  figure,  in  full  armor,  was  seventy  feet  in  height,  includ- 
ing the  pedestal,  and  towered  above  the  Parthenon,  the  glittering 
helmet  and  lance  serving  as  a   guide  to  ships  approaching   Athens. 

Turning  toward  the  Propylaea,  we  stood  upon  the  steps  of  the 


HuKin-U   uF    iHb    LAKrAIiubb 


Temple  of  the  Wingless  Victory,  a  beautiful  little  structure,  restored 
in  1835.  Thence  we  looked  back  upon  the  works  of  men  dead 
two  thousand  years,  creations  of  such  strength  and  splendor  that 
they  are  well-nigh  imperishable.  The  scarlet  and  gold  on  their 
sculptures  has  long  since  faded,  but  the  triumph  of  the  chisel  re- 
mains, imprisoning  the  giant  will  of  Pericles;  the  artistic  feeling  of 
Phidias.  Facing  again  the  entrance  to  the  Acropolis,  one  obtains 
a  glorious  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  To  the  southwest  lies 
the  Saronic  gulf  laving  the  shores  of  the  island  of  ^^Egina,  where  it 
is  said  that  the  first    European  coin    was    struck,    and  where    large 


A  THEN^ 


1^5 


quantities  of    sponges    are    ol)taincd.      There,  is  also    the    island   of 
Salamis,   off  whose  coast  Thcmistocles  won  the  great  naval  battle, 


in    480    B.   C,    frccinr; 

In  the  even- 
ing, we  attended 
a  concert  given 
by  an  amateur 
orchestra,  and  a 
professional  band 
from  Cephalonia, 
an  island  west  of 
the  gulf  of  Patras. 
The  elite  of  Ath- 
ens were  present 
and  we  noticed  a 
number  of  pretty 
Greek  girls,  their 
dark  eyes  spark- 
ling beneath  the 
brims  of  Parisian 
hats.  When  the 
orchestra  ap- 
peared, it  would 
have  been  easv  to 
imagine  ourselves 
at  home,  for  the 
lawyers,  doctors 
and  literary  men 
who  composed  it, 
looked  in  their  full 
evening    dress,  so 


drc 


forev 


'er    Irom     the     Pi^rsian    voke. 


""9 

^^^^^^^Sl 

^k. 

B 

Wiri               -«^H 

^^BjJF.-  ■  '^-*M-      j^f 

•* 

KING  GEORGE  OF  GREECE 

I    have  not    seen  a  stupid- 


like  Americans  that  we  were  startled 
looking  Greek. 

The  doctor,  who  accompanied  us,  said  that  the  country  suffers 
because  of  the  over-education  of  the  masses;  there  are  so  few 
farmers,  and  so  many  professional  men,  unemploved.  It  seems  to 
be  the  ambition   of   every    youth  to  graduate  from  the    University, 


126  ATHENS 

and  Athens  boasts  excellent  schools.  This  thirst  for  knowledge 
often  induces  young  men  to  study  all  da)-,  and  then  work  half  the 
night  to  earn  enough  to  support  themselves.  Many  peasants  in 
the  mountainous  districts  devote  all  their  savings  to  the  further- 
ance of  public  education.  The  Greeks  are  singularly  loyal,  and, 
even  after  having  settled  in  foreign  countries,  make  bequests  to 
promote  building  or  educational  schemes  in  their  native  land. 

A  striking  instance  is  the  recent  effort  to  restore  the  ancient 
Stadium,  the  oblong  amphitheater  where  the  Panathenaean  contests 
once  took  place,  which  was  destroyed  by  the  Turks.  It  is  situated 
in  the  hollow  of  a  hill  and  the  tiers  of  seats  accommodate  60,000 
persons.  Its  partial  restoration  was  accomplished  through  the  gen- 
erosity of  M.  AverofT,  a  wealthy  Greek  residing  in  Alexandria.  It 
is  rumored  that  before  many  years  he  will  complete  the  interior, 
making  every  seat  of  Pentelic  marble,  as  in  the  past.  So  far,  only 
the  first  four  rows  have  been  thus  restored.  Stadium  is  the  Greek 
word  for  mile,  and  the  race  course  within  the  enclosure  is  582 
ft.    long. 

The  sight  of  the  Stadium  on  April  15th,  when  the  victors  in 
the  recent  Olympian  games  were  crowned,  was  alone  worth  the  trip 
to  Greece.  Every  one  of  the  seats  was  taken  that  morning,  and 
many  youthful  citizens  were  hanging  over  the  rear  wall.  Three 
large  bands  were  stationed  at  difierent  parts  of  the  arena,  the  one 
from  Cephalonia  being  at  the  main  entrance.  When  the  royal 
carriages  drew  up  before  the  gates,  the  multitudes  rose  to  their  feet 
and  cheered  heartily.  The  royal  family  consisting  of  the  King,  the 
Princesses  Sophie  and  Marie,  the  Princes  Constantine,  George  and 
two  younger  l)r()thers,  walked  the  entire  length  of  the  interior,  fol- 
lowed by  the  royal  guests  and  the  members  of  the  court.  The 
King  has  a  fine  face  and  martial  bearing.  His  generosity  and 
uniform  courtesy  have  won  him  many  new  admirers  among  the 
foreigners  now  in  Athens.  Princess  Sophie,  wife  of  the  Crown 
Prince  Constantine,  represented  the  Queen  at  the  ceremonies  of  the 
day,  as  the  latter  was  kept  away  by  a  slight  illness.  She  was 
gowned  in  a  dark  material  and  wore  a  small  dress  bonnet  and  a 
short  velvet  cape;  she  carried  a  bouijuet  tied  with  the  Greek  colors. 

Wluii   the   King  received    the  victors,  the  scene  was    inspiring. 


128  ATHENS 

As  the  name  of  each  was  announced  l)v  the  herald,  the  flao;  of 
his  country  was  run  up  to  the  top  of  the  iia^staff  near  the  entrance 
of  the  stadium,  and  greeted  by  a  round  of  applause  from  the  winner's 
friends  and  compatriots.  I  ran  assure  you  that,  at  the  eleventh 
appearance  of  our  glorious  stars  and  stripes,  the  enthusiasm  was 
most  gratifying,  Greeks  vying  with  Americans  in  loud  demonstra- 
tions of  delight.  Each  man  walked  up  the  steps  of  the  throne, 
and  after  shaking  hands  with  the  King,  who  spoke  a  word  of  con- 
gratulation, received  a  diploma,  a  medal  and  a  branch  of  the  sacred 
olive  tree  from  Olympia.  We  were  overjoyed  to  see  every  one  of 
the  Americans  back  down  the  steps  easily  and  gracefully,  and  much 
amused  at  the  awkwardness  of  some  of  the  foreigners,  who,  born 
and  brought  up  in  kingdoms,  should  have  been  familiar  with  court 
etic]uette.  The  medals  were  of  silver,  with  the  Acropolis  engraved 
upon  one  side,  and,  on  the  other,  the  head  of  Olympian  Zeus. 
After  the  presentation  was  over,  the  King  made  a  speech,  and  the 
Crown  Prince,  whom  the  King  publicly  embraced,  followed  with 
another.  The  success  of  the  games  was  due  mainly  to  the  energy, 
good  judgment  and  clever  management  of  the  Prince.  Then  came 
the  procession  of  the  victors.  They  marched  about  the  stadium, 
headed  by  the  Greek  who  won  the  Marathon  race.  How  we  cheered 
our  boys  who  followed  him !  How  glad  we  were  that  it  was  a 
Greek  who  won  the  race  commemorating  that  great  achievement 
which  once  saved  Athens  from  destruction!  I  will  repeat  the  story 
as  it  was  related  to  me. 

There  were  100,000  Persians  and  only  10,000  Greeks  on  the 
plain  of  Marathon,  at  the  great  battle  of  August  1 2th,  490  B.  C. 
The  Greeks,  in  order  to  make  their  line  as  long  as  that  of  the 
Persians,  were  obliged  to  weaken  the  center,  but  the  sides  were 
strengthened.  They  stood  so  close  together  that  their  shields 
formed  a  solid  wall.  When  a  favorable  moment  arrived,  Miltiades, 
commander  of  the  Greeks,  ordered  them  to  charge  the  barbarians, 
at  a  run.  The  Persians  gained  at  first,  as  some  of  them  forced 
their  way  through  the  center  of  their  opponents,  and  drove  them 
back  to  the  mountains,  but  the  wings,  where  were  stationed 
the  Athenians  and  their  allies,  closed  about  the  remainder  and 
utterly  vanquished    them.      Above  the    Athenians  slain  that  day,  a 


A  THENS 


ii<^ 


mound  of  earth  was  raised  which  still  exists,   a  monument  to  their 
memory. 

Miltiades  had  told  the  Athenians  left  to  guard  the  city  that, 
if  they  did  not  hear  from  him  by  a  certain  hour  of  a  certain  day, 
they  might  conclude  that  he  had  been  defeated  and  must  at  once 
take  to  their  ships,  after  setting  fire  to  the  temples  and  dwellings, 


MOUND  AT   MARATHON 

to  prevent  the  enemy  from  coming  into  possession  of  them.  When 
he  found  that  he  had  won  the  battle,  he  was  aghast  to  discover 
that  little  more  than  two  hours  remained  in  which  to  send  a  message 
to  save  the  city,  twenty-six  miles  awa}-.  He  at  once  appealed  to 
his  men  for  a  volunteer  messenger.  One  stalwart  Athenian,  though 
fatigued  by  the  battle,  responded,  knowing  well  that  the  attempt 
meant  almost  certain  death.  His  offer  was  accepted  and  he  reached 
Athens  just  in  time,  barely  able  to  utter  the  word,  "Nike!"*  before 
he    fell    dead    from    exhaustion.      Fastened    to    his    garments  was  a 


*  Victory. 
9 


I30  ATHENS 

sprig  of  olive,  whicli  would  have  conve}'ed  the  message,  had  he 
been  unable  to  speak.  The  battle  of  Marathon  is  considered  one  of 
the  thirteen  decisive  battles  of  the  world,  and  probably  saved  Europe 
from   being  overrun  by  Asiatics. 

The  Greek  who  won  the  Marathon  race  last  week  was  a  voung 
peasant  from  the  mountains,  named  Spiro  Loues;  untrained,  and 
unknown  among  athletes.  He  accomjilished  the  run  in  less  time 
than  his  famous  predecessor,  but  the  latter  was  already  spent  with 
the  battle,  while  Loues  was  perfectly  fresh.  He  might  now  be  a 
rich  man,  had  he  accepted  the  costly  gifts  offered  him  as  a  reward 
for  his  feat,  but  he  refused  them  all,  saying  that  he  strove  for  the 
honor  of  his  country,  and  not  for  money.  Such  is  the  inherent 
nobility  of  the  Greek.  Some  humorous  incidents  occurred  at  the 
finisli  of  the  race.  It  is  said  that  a  French  lady  tore  off  a  costly 
watch  and  chain,  and  offered  them  to  Loues;  that  a  barber  wished 
to  shave  him,  free  of  charge,  for  the  rest  of  his  life,  and  that  the 
keeper  of  a  restaurant  presented  him  with  several  hundred  meal 
tickets. 

The  Greeks  seem  restless  under  a  monarchical  system  of  gov- 
ernment, and  look  forward  with  hope  to  a  republic.  All  classes 
take  a  keen  interest  in  politics,  wliich  they  discuss  in  every  public 
place,  with  the  greatest  animation. 

It  is  maintained  that,  owing  to  the  lack  of  mterest  in  agri- 
culture and  manufactures,  Greece  would  starve  were  it  not  for  her 
tremendous  commerce  with  otJTcr  nations.  Among  her  chief  ex- 
ports are  figs  and  oranges  of  a  fine  qualitv  and  the  superior  oil 
of  Attica. 

The  names  of  the  streets  and  public  buildings,  and  the  signs, 
are  perplexing  to  the  average  tourist,  because  of  the  peculiar  Greek 
letters.  The  cabmen  arc  unable  to  speak  any  language  save  their 
own ;  the  calendar  is  twelve  days  behind  ours,  and,  altogether,  we 
feel  at  every  turn  as  if  we  ought  to  study  the  Greek  alphabet,  at 
least,  in  order  to  see  things  intelligently. 

The  Greek  Church  exerts  great  influence.  Its  supreme  au- 
thority' in   Greece    is    the    Synod,*  meeting  at   Athens.      There    are 

*  A  council  of  priests  to  consult  on  church  matters. 


A THENS 


131 


said  to  be  more  places  of  worship  in  this  countrw  in  jiroportion  to 
its  size,  than  in  anv  otlier.  The  site  of  a  church,  chapel  or  shrine 
is  always  sacred;  the  name  of  the  saint,  to  whom  it  was  dedi- 
cated, clings  to  the 
spot,  even  after  the 
shrine  has  fallen  in- 
to ruin,  and,  on  the 
saint's  day,  a  priest 
generally  conducts  a 
service  there,  while  a 
lamp  or  small  wood- 
en cross  reminds  the 
wayfarer  that  it  was 
once  a  house  of  God. 
The  ordinary  priests 
are  allowed  to  marr\' 
once,  but  marriage  is 
forbidden  to  the 
bishops.  If  they  are 
married  at  the  time 
of  their  elevation  to 
the  bishopric,  they 
are  obliged  to  put 
their  wives  away. 
Immorality  among 
the  Greeks  is  rare, 
and  as  divorces  are 
only  granted  on  Bible 
grounds,  they  are 
comparatively  few. 

We  have  noticed  '"  '^'  ' '  ^  ^  ' 

that  many  of  the  men  carry  strings  of  wooden  beads,  which  they 
move  back  and  forth  while  talking  or  thinking.  Upon  in(iuirv,  we 
find  that  they  are  not  rosaries,  but  supply  an  occupation  for  the 
hands.  We  remember  the  people  who  twiddle  their  watch  chains 
and  twirl  their  thumbs.  The  introduction  of  Greek  beads  into 
America  would  supply  a   long-felt  want. 


132 


A  THENS 


The  third  day  after  our  arrival,  Dr.  C.  called  for  us,  and 
we  went  with  him  to  the  shops  where  antiques  are  sold.  Before 
we  returned  to  the  hotel,  he  asked  us  if  we  would  not  like  to 
taste  viasticka,  a  favorite  beverage  of  the  Greeks.  On  our  assenting, 
we  were  conducted  to  a  large  cafe,  and  soon,  two  goblets  half  full  of 
water  were  placed  be- 
fore us,  and  two  small 
glasses  containing 
something  which  ap- 
peared to  me  like  white 
varnish  and  which 
smelled  about  as  fra- 
grant. This  we  were 
bidden  to  empty  into 
the  water  and  drink. 
They  say  masticlia  is 
an  appetizer,  generally 
taken  before  luncheon 
or  dinner;  as  for  our 
enjoyment  of  it, — one 
sip  was  enough. 

Afterwards,  we 
spent  three  profitable 
hours,  in  the  National 
Museum,  gazing  at 
the  rare  collection  of 
archaic  objects  found 
by  Dr.  Schliemann  at 
the  ancient  citadels  of  Mycense  and  other  cities,  in  1876-7.  The 
rooms  containing  this  special  collection  are  beautifully  decorated, 
and  the  articles  are  in  handsome  cases.  They  are  principally  the 
contents  of  graves,  including  pottery,  household  utensils  and  articles 
of  personal  adornment,  such  as  combs,  gold  pins  shaped  like  the  old- 
fashioned  safety  pin,  scarabs,*  intaglios, f  buttons,  wreaths  of  gold, 
br-:-:'  itplates,   anklets  and  bracelets.      There  are  exquisite  gold  cups, 

■  Seals  in  the  shape  of  beetles. 

[Seals  in  which  figures  are  cut,  forming  depressions. 


ANCIENT  GREEK  TOMBSTONE 


ATHENS 


133 


with  heavy  car\ings,  and  one  especially  beautiful  vase  of  marble 
with  three  ornate  handles,  like  a  loving-cup.  Curious  steles  or 
memorial  slabs,  brought  from  the  highway  on  either  side  of  which 
the  ancient  Greeks  buried  their  dead,  occupy  several  rooms.  The 
favorite    designs  carved    upon    them    arc   parting  scenes,    where  the 


STREET    (. 


deceased  is  portrayed  bidding  farewell  to  his  famil)';  there  are  also 
tomb  reliefs,  where  the  departed  is  shown  reclining  on  a  couch  at 
a  banquet,  attended  by  slaves. 

The  treasures  of  the  Museum  whetted  our  curiosity  to  explore 
this  street  of  tombs,  so  we  went  at  once  to  the  spot.  There  are 
many  interesting  monuments  still  standing  (one  dating  from  the  3rd 
century  B.  C.)  amid  hillocks  of  stony  ground  and  a  tangle  of  weeds 
outside  the  Dipylon,  the  gate  of  the  old  city. 

Before  dinner,  we  passed  a  pleasant  hour  in  the  studio  of  a 
prominent  sculptor,  where  my  companion  selected  a  marble  copy 
of  the  famous  statue  of  Hermes  by  Praxiteles,  the  original  of  which 
is  in  Olympia. 


134  ATHENS 

One  evening,  we  went  to  the  Grand  Theater  where  Sophocles' 
tragedy  of  Antigone  was  finely  presented  by  a  company  made  up 
of  members  of  the  faculties  of  the  University  and  the  Conservatory 
of  Music.  This  was  their  third  performance  since  the  opening  of 
the  games.  There  has  been  no  previous  attempt  to  present  the 
classic  drama  at  Athens  since  it  was  given  in  ancient  times  on  the 
stage  of  the  Theater  of  Dionysus,  at  the  foot  of  the  Acropolis. 
No  time,  labor  or  money  was  spared  to  make  this  play  a  success. 
The  ancient  customs,  dress  and  manners  were  faithfully  repro- 
duced. People  from  many  countries  occupied  the  boxes  and  chairs, 
following  the  action  of  the  play  with  marked  attention.  The  works 
of  Sophocles  have  always  been  models  for  students  of  dramatic 
art.  As  a  poet,  Sophocles  is  universally  admitted  to  have  brought 
the  drama  to  its  highest   perfection. 

We  enjoy  wandering  around  alone  in  the  ancient  quarters  of 
the  cit}'.  On  ^Eolus  Street  one  can  see  tailors,  tinkers  and  shoe- 
makers out  in  front  of  their  shops,  as  busy  as  bees.  In  the  same 
section  is  the  quaint  old  church  constructed  out  of  the  fragments 
of  ancient  buildings,  by  the  Empress  Irene,  in  775  A.  D.  Beside 
the  church,  there  is  a  slab  of  gray  marble  about  seven  feet  long, 
bearing  a  Greek  inscription: — "This  is  the  stone  from  Cana  of 
Galilee,  where  Jesus  Christ  our  Lord  turned  the  water  into  wine." 
This  slab  was  discovered  among  the  ruins  at  Elatea,  and  is  thought 
to  have  actualh'  been  brought  from  Cana.  It  was  used  as  the  altar 
at  the  marriage  of  the  present  Crown  Prince  with  the  Princess 
Sophie  of  Prussia,  in    1889. 

About  five  o'clock  on  Thursday,  we  loaded  a  carriage  with  our 
bags  and  started  for  No.  —  Scufa  Street,  where  our  Greek  guide 
had  secured  a  parlor  and  bedroom  for  us  in  a  private  house.  We 
had  hoped  to  have  the  comforts  enjoyed  at  Granada,  but  after  a 
two  days'  trial,  we  were  obliged  to  change  again.  The  walk  up  to 
the  house,  which  was  situated  on  a  hill,  was  too  fatiguing  after  we 
had  been  tramping  about  all  day.  The  rooms  were  so  stuffed  with 
furniture,  vases,  paper  flowers,  and  even  the  actual  toilet  articles 
and  clothes  of  the  family,  that  the  air  was  unwholesome.  Still,  we 
might  have  been  able  to  endure  all  that,  if  it  had  not  been  for  a 
shrine   in  our  bedroom,   consisting  of   a  large  glass  case  filled  with 


A  THEXS 


135 


icons,*  beads  and  bottles  of  holy  water.  Before  it  hung  a  shallow 
vessel  filled  with  oli\c  oil  containing  a  lighted  taper.  It  would 
have  been  sacrilege  to  extinguish  it,  so  we  tried  to  sleep  with  its 
glare  in  our  eyes,  our  heads,  in  the  meantime,  resting  on  jiillows 
that  were  stuffed  with  rags  instead  of  feathers.  The  landlady  was 
very  kind  and  at- 
tentive, but  we 
were  obliged  to 
put  consideration 
for  her  in  the 
background  and 
make  our  escape 
as  gracefully  as 
possible.  We  are 
now  settled  at  the 
Hotel  d'Athenes, 
a  n  d  have  p  e  r  - 
suaded  the  pro- 
prietor that  ten 
francs  a  day  will 
compensate  him 
for  satisfying  our 
robust  appetites. 
The  monu- 
ments on  the 
Acropolis  were  il- 
luminated, several 
evenings,  but  it 
jarred  upon  my 
feelings  to  see  the 
Parthenon  lighted 
up  like  a  pavilion 
with  red  and  green 
fires,  and  I  wanted  to  fl}-  across  the  intervening  space  and  put 
them  out.  It  seems  to  me  that  this  edifice  should  be  kept  sacred; 
that  no  modern  invention  should  ever  come  near  it. 


OLGA,  QUEEN    OF   GREECE 


*  Painted  images,  generally  of  the  Madonna  and  child. 


136  ATHENS 

One  enters  the  simple,  but  dignified  Royal  Palace  through  an 
Ionic  colonnade.  Facing  the  door  is  a  grand  staircase,  used  only 
by  the  family.  To  the  left,  beyond  an  arch,  is  a  flight  of  marble 
steps  covered  by  a  scarlet  velvet  carpet  with  a  black  Grecian  key 
border.  This  leads  to  the  state  apartments  on  the  second  floor. 
The  first  of  the  suite,  the  Room  of  Battles,  is  hung  with  flags 
used  or  captured  in  war.  Among  them  are  the  ancient  Persian 
trophies.  From  the  gilded  throne-room  we  saw  an  ante  chamber 
encircled  by  a  frieze  of  medallion  portraits  of  noted  Greek  ministers. 
The  ballroom  was  filled  with  small  tables,  on  which  were  the  re- 
mains of  a  state  luncheon  given  the  day  before  by  the  King  to  the 
victors  and  committees  of  the  games. 

The  Princess  Marie,  daughter  of  the  King,  is  betrothed  to  the 
Russian  Grand  Duke  George,  in  deference  to  the  wishes  of  her 
mother  (according  to  gossip  in  Athens),  who  is  a  Russian  and  in 
every  way  endeavors  to  promote  friendship  between  the  two  nations. 
We  are  told  that  this  engagement  is  a  great  disappointment  to  the 
people,  who  would  prefer  the  King  of  Servia,  a  suitor  whom  the 
girl  had  favored  and  who  rules  a  nation  which  is  on  the  best  of 
terms  with  Greece.  As  we  were  returning  from  the  palace,  a  number 
of  the  royal  carriages,  with  footmen  and  coachmen  in  Greek  dress, 
passed  us.  It  looked  very  strange  to  see  a  man  in  ballet  skirts 
holding  the  reins  over  a  pair  of  spirited  horses,  while  the  occupants 
of  the  carriage  wore  Parisian  costumes. 

The  wife  of  the  American  consul  has  invited  us  to  tea  on 
Thui'sday  next,  but  as  we  must  leave  Athens  before  that  time,  we 
are  forced  to  forego  the  pleasure. 

It  has  been  cold  for  the  last  two  days,  and  we  have  been 
uncomfortable.  There  is  no  way  of  heating  our  room  except  hy 
a  brazier,  a  cylindrical  iron  affair  like  a  bowl  on  legs,  filled  with 
live  coals,  upon  which  sizzles  a  lemon  cut  in  two.  We  wonder 
whether  it  is  there  for  ornament,  or  to  absorb  the  gases  which  so 
fill  the  room,  that  we  are  obliged  to  leave  the  door  open,  thus 
admitting  more  cold  air.  The  "chambermaids"  are  all  men,  and  it 
has  been  rather  trying  to  have  strapping  young  fellows  tidy  our 
bedroom.  But  they  are  more  obliging  than  half  the  maids,  and 
actually  hang  our  dresses  up  by  the  loops! 


A  THENS 


137 


We  are  becoming  so  fond  of  the  Hymettus  honey,  which  has 
been  eaten  by  the  Greeks  from  time  immemorial,  that  we  intend  to 
take  a  few  jars  away  with  us,  for  tlie  benefit  of  home  friends.  It 
is  gathered  by  the  bees  from  the  wild  white  thyme  that  grows  on 
Mt.  Hymettus,   and  has  its  peculiar,  delicate  flavor. 

On  Sunday  we  attended  earl\'  mass  at  St.  Irene's.  On  a  little 
table  beside  the  entrance  there  was  a  tray  of  coins;  behind  it,  a 
priest  holding  a  crucifix  in  one  hand  and  a  sprig  of  sacred  olive 
in  the  other.      As  the  faithful  passed  him,  they  dropped  their  coins 


ARCH   OF   HADRIAN  AND  TEMPLE  OF  ZEUS 

upon  the  tray,  while  he  held  the  crucifix  to  their  lips  and  touched 
the  olive  branch  to  their  brows.  We  also  made  an  offering,  and 
entered.  Just  inside  the  door  candles  of  all  sizes  were  sold;  some 
were  two  feet  long.  Each  worshiper  bought  a  candle  of  whatever 
size  he  wished,  and,  passing  through  the  vestibule  into  the  body  of 
the  church,  stepped  up  to  a  silver  candelabrum  before  an  icon, 
lighted  his  candle  and  placed  it  in  one  of  the  cups,  which  were  of 
various  sizes. 

The  apse  in  all  Greek  churches  is  shut  off  from  the  body  of 
the  church  by  a  partition  called  the  temp/on.  In  this  are  three 
narrow  doors.    The  high  priest  and  king,  only,  are  permitted  to  enter 


138  ATHENS 

the  central  door,  which,  when  open,  discloses  the  Holy  Table  on 
which  arc  placed  the  gospels,  paintings  of  saints  and  service  book. 
Assistant  priests  use  the  two  side  doors.  During  the  service,  the 
liturgy  was  chanted  by  an  assistant  and  a  fine  boy  choir.  There 
were  no  artificial  flowers,  no  little  lambrequins  of  cheap  lace,  no 
harrowing  crucifixions  or  entombments.  All  things  breathed  rever- 
ence, peace  and  quiet  dignity. 

Although  we  were  pleased  with  St.  Irene's,  we  were  charmed 
with  the  Russian  church,  near  the  palace,  where  the  Queen  attends 
service,  and  whither  we  went  about  half  past  ten.  The  interior  is 
sumptuously  decorated  and  furnished  in  the  Greek  colors,  blue  and 
white.  It  is  so  small,  that  one  can  almost  shake  hands,  as  soon 
as  he  enters,  with  the  assistant  priest  chanting  the  service  before 
the  tciuploii.  There  are  no  seats  except  within  two  side  alcoves, 
where  the  royal  family  were  worshiping.  The  high  priest,  looking 
like  a  patriarch,  with  flowing  hair  and  beard  of  snowy  white,  was 
arrayed  in  a  full  robe  of  heavy  blue  and  white  silk  bordered  and 
decorated  in  silver.  Upon  his  head  was  a  turban  or  tall  hat,  set 
with  miniatures  of  saints  surrounded  by  brilliants,  and  the  spaces 
between  were  embroidered  in  gold  and  pearls.  The  whole  structure 
was  stiff,  and  seemed  very  heavy,  as  at  different  points  in  the 
service,  it  was  removed  and   replaced. 

The  ancient  city  of  Athens  was  divided  by  Hadrian  from  the 
new  (juarters  by  an  arch,  a  part  of  which  is  still  standing.  An 
inscrii)tion  upon  one  side,  translated,  i"eads,  "This  is  Athens,  the  old 
city  of  Theseus;"  that  upon  the  other,  "This  is  the  city  of  Hadrian, 
and  not  of  Theseus."  The  arch  formed  the  entrance,  also,  to  the 
quarter  where  there  was  a  great  temple  dedicated  to  Zeus,  "father 
of  gods  and  king  of  men."  Sixteen  of  the  huge  Corinthian  columns 
yet  remain  to  emphasize  the  general  destruction.  Legend  relates 
that  from  this  spot  the  last  waters  of  the  Deluge  disappeared. 

The  Theseum,  Temple  of  Theseus,  a  mythical  king  of  Athens, 
is  the  best  preserved  edifice  in  all  Greece.  After  having  braved  the 
storms  of  two  thousand  years,  it  shows  only  a  few  signs  of  decay; 
the  drums  of  some  of  the  columns  have  been  shifted  a  trifle  by 
earthquake  shocks.  This  temple  is  supposed  to  have  been  erected 
to  commemorate  the  battle  of  Marathon. 


A  THENS 


139 


Since  the  first  two  days  of  our  visit  to  Athens,  we  liave  not 
employed  a  i^uide,  but  with  the  assistance  of  our  Greek  friend, 
Dr.  C,  and  rel3'ing  upon  Bsedeker,  we  have  managed  to  see  a  great 
deal  of  the  citv.      There  is  an  exhibition  of  Greek  industries,  in  the 


THE    THESEUM 


beautiful  structure  called  the  "Zappeion,"  which  includes  some 
pretty  tissues  and  fancy  silk  weaves,  embroideries,  carvings  in  marble 
and  wood  and  quantities  of  perfumes  and  soaps. 

Yesterday  morning  we  took  a  carriage  and  drove  to  Colonus 
where  Sophocles  lived.  From  there,  we  looked  down  upon  the 
plot  of  ground  dedicated  to  Athena,  and  named  after  Academus, 
the  first  owner.  The  word  "academy"  is  taken  from  the  name  of 
this  classic  spot.  It  was  under  the  shade  of  the  olive  trees  in  this 
garden,  that  Plato  spent  many  years  with  his  pupils. 

Our  horses'  heads  were  then  turned  toward  Eleusis,  and  we 
travelled  along  the  Sacred  Way  as  far  as  the  Convent  of  Daphne, 
about  half  way  to  the  Temple  of  the  Mysteries  dedicated  to  Demeter. 

The  Sacred  Way  is  the  road  over  which  the  Eleusinian  torch- 


140  ATHENS 

light  procession  passed  from  Athens  to  the  temple  during  the  great 
festival  celebrating  the  legend  of  Demeter,  who,  while  in  search  of 
her  daughter,  Persephone,  abducted  by  Hades,  was  hospitably  re- 
ceived by  the  King  of  Eleusis,  and  in  return  taught  his  people 
how  to  till  the  soil.  This  tine  road  is  bordered  by  a  hedge  of 
century  plants  and  shaded  by  poplars;  wild  flowers,  especially  pop- 
pies, carpet  the  spaces  between.  About  a  mile  beyond  the  modern 
Botanical  Gardens,  is  a  gi^ove  of  hoary  olive  trees,  their  twisted 
trunks  and  boughs  looking  like  masses  of  boa  constrictors.  One 
special  tree,  whose  age  and  size  seem  fully  to  justify  the  name,  is 
called  "Plato's  olive  tree,"  and  man)  .believe  that  he  sat  and  taught 
beneath  it.  All  the  bark  is  gone,  and  only  a  few  weather-beaten 
branches  show  signs  of  life.  Traces  of  aqueducts  and  of  the  tomb- 
stones which  once  lined  the  road  are  still  visible. 

We  met  some  interesting  country  folk  coming  into  town,  and 
itinerant  cobblers,  with  sticks  across  their  shoulders  loaded  with  low 
shoes,  the  toe  turned  up  and  finished  with  a  pompon.  Donkeys 
were  plodding  along  under  great  four-pocketed  panniers  filled  with 
lemons  and  oranges. 

The  convent,  which  we  reached  after  a  two-hours'  drive,  dates 
from  1263  and  contains  a  fine  Byzantine  mosaic  of  Christ.  The 
Sacristan  was  verv  attentive,  and  before  we  departed,  broke  a  couple 
of  stalks  from  a  little  pot  of  flowers  on  the  wall  and  presented  to 
us  the  only  bit  ot   brightness  within   the  cloister. 

1  can  assure  you  that  we  did  justice  to  the  delicious  fried  fish, 
artichokes  and  spinach  awaiting  us  on  our  return  to  the  hotel  at  one 
o'clock.  The  spinach  is  beaten  almost  to  a  powder  and  mixed  with 
cream,    a  combination   which  is  very  light  and  palatable. 

After  a  short  siesta,  we  walked  to  the  Areopagus,  or  Mars 
Hill,  so  called  from  the  mvth  that  Ares  was  tried  here  for  murder. 
It  was  the  open-air  court  of  the  ancient  Athenians,  where  aged 
citizens  of  high  standing  exercised  supreme  jurisdiction  in  cases  of 
life  and  death.  It  is  said  that  the  tribunals  were  held  at  night,  so 
that  no  glance  of  the  eye  or  motion  of  the  hand  might  influence 
the  judges  for  or  against  the  accused.  From  this  hill,  St.  Paul 
probably  delivered  his  sermon,  found  in  the  seventeenth  chapter 
of  Acts. 


A  THEA'.'s 


141 


After  gathering  some  wild  flowers,  we  descended  to  the  site 
of  the  old  cit}',  at  the  foot  of  Mars  Hill,  where  remains  of  cisterns, 
conduits,  mosaic  floors  and  traces  of  streets  and  marble  thresholds 
are  to  be  found.      Near  Mars  Hill  is  the  Hill  of  the  Nymphs.     At 


kRiSON    of    SOCRATES 

the  southeast  corner  is  a  spot  made  smooth  by  women,  who  in 
past  times  believed  that  sliding  down  its  steep  incline  would  cure 
sterility. 

On  the  Hill  of  the  Pnyx  is  the  ruin  of  one  of  the  earliest 
structures  of  Athens,  an  immense  platform  395  ft.  long  b\-  212  ft. 
wide.  Here  the  people  held  their  political  assemblies.  The  Bema 
or  orators'  stage  was  located  at  the  base  of  a  rock,  where  sockets 
cut  for  supports  are  still  to  be  seen.  The  votive  tablets,  formerly 
occupying  niches  in  the  supporting  wall,  are  now  in  the  British 
Museum.  Three  doorwavs  cut  in  the  side  of  the  neighboring  hill 
lead  to  the  so-called  prison  of  Socrates,  who  is  said  to  have  been 
confined  in  this  rocky  cavern  for  thirty  days,  before  drinking  the 
cup  of  hemlock  by  which  he  was  condemned  to  die. 

The  people  still  keep  up  certain  curious  old  customs,  notably 
that  of  carrying  their  dead  through  the  streets  with  the  face  ex- 
posed to  the  rays  of  the  sun. 


142  ATHENS 

To-day  we  have  bidden  farewell  to  the  Acropolis,  and  have 
made  our  last  purchases,  for,  to-morrow,  we  return  to  Patras, 
whence  we  shall  go  to  Olympia,  my  heart's  desire,  in  the  Pelopon- 
nesus. The  more  we  see  of  the  Greeks,  the  better  we  like  them, 
for  they  are  intellectual,  dignified  and  kind-hearted. 

"Where'er  we  tread,  'tis  haunted,  hoh'  ground; 
No  earth  of  thine  is  lost  in  vulgar  mould. 
But  one  vast  realm  o{  wonder  spreads  around, 
And  all  the  Muse's  tales  seem  truly  told, 
Till  the  sense  aches  with  gazing  to  behold 
The  scenes  our  earliest  dreams  have  dwelt  upon: 
Each  hill  and  dale,  each  deepening  glen  and  wold, 
Defies  the  power  which  crushed  thy  temples  gone: 
Age  shakes  Athena's  tower,  but  spares  gray  Marathon." 


f4' 


CHAPTER   XIV 

FROM  OLYAIPIA  TO  ROME 

HEN  we  left  the  train  at  Patras,  the  sun  was  slowly 
sinking  behind  the  mountains  of  Epirus  across  the 
gulf,  bathing  them  in  such  liquid  colors  that  the 
peaks  seemed  to  lose  all  connection  with  earth  and 
float  like  clouds  in  mid-air.  Below  this  range  lies 
Missolonghi,  where  Lord  Byron  lived  for  some 
time  while  zealously  assisting  the  Greeks  in  their 
struggle  with  the  Turks.  He  was  appointed  com- 
mander of  an  expedition  against  Lepanto,  and  was 
making  read}-,  when  he  was  attacked  by  a  fever,  induced,  no  doubt, 
by  privation  and  overwork,  and  died  April  19th,  1824.  His  body 
was  sent  back  to  England,  but  his  heart  is  buried  at  Missolonehi, 
where  a  monument  was  erected  to  him,  in  1881.  Byron's  memory 
is  greatly  revered  by  the  Greeks,  and  squares  and  streets  are 
named  after  him,  in   the  principal  cities. 

Although  the  different  parties  on  the  train  from  Patras  to 
Olympia  seemed  to  be  provided  with  guides,  we  went  alone.  Our 
journey  took  us  along  the  coast  as  far  as  Achaia,  when  we  struck 
southward.  As  we  whirled  past  the  farms  of  this  fertile  district, 
we  could  see  the  peasants  in  their  queer  costumes,  digging  about 
the  roots  of  the  vines  to  keep  the  soil  soft  and  yielding.  The 
wheat  seemed  no  further  advanced  than  it  would  be  in  Illinois  at 
this  time  of  the  year,  and  winter  clothing  was  still  comfortable. 
When  we  began  the  descent  to  the  plains  of  the  Alpheus  river, 
an  Arcadian  valley  lay  before  us.  Surely  the  ancients  thought  to 
please  the  gods  when  they  selected  this  spot  for  their  sacred  pre- 
cinct. Encircled  by  a  low  range  of  hills  and  at  the  junction  of 
two  cr3-stal  streams,  a  glorious  abode  was  prepared  for  their  pagan 

143 


144 


FROM  OLYMl'IA    TO  ROME 


deities.  But  Mother  Earth  became  angry  with  Olympia,  and, 
refusing  longer  to  bear  her  marvels  of  architecture,  trembled,  and 
their  columns  were  laid  k)\v.  Mt.  Cronius  shook  from  its  mighty 
side  clay  and  rocks  that  buried  the  splendid  treasure-houses.  In 
after  years  the  rivers,  Alpheus  and  Cladeus,  as  if  pitying  the 
stricken  one,  rose  and  spread  a  soft  mantle  of  sand  over  the 
broken  forms  of  the  temples  and  later  Christian  churches. 

As  early  as  the  first  part  of  this  century,  prominent  archaeol- 
ogists discussed  and  even  attempted  to  uncover  Olympia,  but  noth- 
ing of  any  importance  was  accomplished  until  1874.  In  that  year, 
a  party  of  Germans  headed  by  Ernst  Curtius  secured  the  right 
to  excavate.  In  six  winters  they  succeeded  in  freeing  nearly  the 
entire  district  from  the  sand  and  clay,  which  in  some  places  was 
twenty  feet  deep.  The  most  important  find  was  the  Plermes  of 
Praxiteles,  but  other  valuable  discoveries  were  made;  for  Olympia 
is  second  only  to  Pompeii  in  interest,  from  an  archaeological  point 
of  view. 

Our  hotel  overlooked  the  ruins,  and  after  dining,  we  took  guide- 
book and  map  and  for  five  hours  tramped,  climbed  and  crawled 
over  stones  and  brush,  crushing  delicate  wild  flowers  under  our 
relic-hunting  feet.  What  a  pathetic  sight  the  broken  columns, 
dismembered  capitals  and  moss-grown  pavements,  but  how  full  of 
majesty  each  separate   stone! 

The  temple  erected  in  honor  of  Zeus,  king  of  the  gods,  was 
the  most  important  edifice  at  Olympia;  built  in  the  Doric  style 
and  2105^  ft.  long.  The  columns,  now  lying  in  sections,  just  as 
the  earthquake  threw  tliem  from  their  bases,  were  thirty-four  and 
a  fifth  feet  high  and  seven  and  a  third  feet  in  diameter.  They 
were  quarried  in  the  neighborhood  out  of  porous  stone,  a  mass  of 
shell,  clay  and  charcoal  that  is  very  brittle,  now,  from  long  exposure 
to  the  air.  The  nave  of  the  cella  was  paved  with  black  limestone 
and  Pentelic  marble  and  contained  a  gold  and  ivory  statue  of  Zeus, 
forty  feet  high,  by  Phidias,  and  said  to  have  been  his  best  work. 
This  statue  was  taken  to  Constantinoj^le  by  the  Turks,  but  frag- 
ments of  its  pedestal  are  still  scattered  about.  Close  by,  is  the 
triangular  base  of  the  statue  of  "Ni'ke, "  by  Paeonius,  a  Thracian 
sculptor    who    lived    about    435    B.    C. 


146  FROM  OLYMPIA    TO  ROME 

The  Heraeum,  erected  to  Plera,  is  next  in  importance,  and  the 
oldest  known  temple  in  Greece.  The  base  that  probably  upheld 
the  statues  of  the  goddess  and  her  consort  Zeus  still  remains  in 
the  cella;  also  that  of  the  famous  Hermes. 

While  exploring  the  ruins,  we  met  an  aristocratic-looking  lady, 
accompanied  by  a  stately  young  woman,  who,  like  ourselyes,  was 
hunting  for  the  lead  pipe  used  to  carry  oft  rain  water  from  a  man- 
sion built  and  used  by  Nero.  At  last,  we  found  it  in  almost  perfect 
condition. 

When  Qinomaus,  king  of  Pisa,*  desired  to  marry  off  his 
daughter  Hippodamia,  he  amused  himself  by  challenging  her  suitors 
to  a  chariot  race,  putting  to  death  all  those  whom  he  succeeded 
in  vanquishing.  Pelops,  an  athletic  young  warrior,  laid  him  low, 
and  thus  secured  the  hand  of  the  charming  "Hippy,"  so,  ever 
since,  Pelops  has  been  the  prototype  of  the  victor,  and  was  held  in 
great  reverence  at  Olympia.  Very  little  remains  of  the  inclosure 
sacred  to  him.  The  cella  of  the  Bouleuterionf  once  contained  the 
statue  of  Zeus,  the  protector  of  oaths,  with  a  thunderbolt  in  each 
hand.  Here,  those  who  were  about  to  compete  in  the  Olympian 
games  took  an  oath  that  they  had  finished  the  ten  months'  training 
prescribed  for  all  who  wished  to  enter  the  contests,  and  that  they 
would  also  obey  all  the  rules  and  regulations.  Although  the  origin 
of  these  games  goes  back  to  prehistoric  times,  no  regular  chron- 
icle was  kept  until  776  B.  C.  At  the  beginning  of  the  sacred 
month  when  the  games  were  to  take  place,  heralds  were  sent  all 
over  Greece  to  proclaim  universal  peace  during  the  period  of  the 
festival,  which  lasted  for  five  days.  During  this  time,  the  priests 
made  solemn  sacrifices  to  the  gods.  These  were  accompanied  by 
athletic  contests  of  all  descriptions.  The  prizes  awarded  were 
simply  branches  from  the  sacred  olive  tree.  It  was  inspiring  to 
stand  upon  the  historic  ground  where  fully  1500  years  ago  the  last 
Olympian  festival  was  held,  and  gratifying  to  know  that  we  have 
witnessed  the  revival  of  the  ancient  games  at  Athens. 

Only  a  small  portion  of  the  Stadium  at  Olympia  has  been 
excavated.     The  seats  were  cut  in  the  hillsides  and  the  course  was 

*  City  in  the  Peloponnesus. 
\  Courthouse. 


FROM  Or.VMrJA   ro  ROME  147 

a  strai<:^ht  one,  so  that  tlie  runiuTs  did  not  rctLirn  to  the  starting' 
point,  as  at  Athens;  it  was  exactly  one  Oh'mjiie  mile  in  len,L;th. 
The  main  g\mnasium  was  more  than  a  stadium  long.  Here  the 
athletes  were  obliged  to  practice  under  the  direction  of  trainers  for 
a  month  previous  to  the  contests,  while  those  who  so  desired  were 
]K'rmitted  to  practice  there  the  entire  ten  months.  The  court  used 
1)\'  the  wrestlers  is  j:)aved  with  a  material  corrugated  like  fire  brick. 

But  I  shall  weary  you  if  I  give  further  details,  so  we  will 
leave  the  temples  and  go  across  the  bridge  to  the  Museum  where 
the  precious  marbles  are  now  caretullv  housed.  The  Ijroken 
pieces  of  the  sculptured  pechments  ot  the  temple  of  Zeus  are 
fastened  to  the  wall  of  a  large  room  in  their  exact  relative  posi- 
tion and  small  models,  showing  the  pediments  restored,  are  near 
by.  One  represents  centaurs  at  a  marriage  festival,  attempting 
to  abduct  the  maidens.  Fourteen  thousand  small  bronzes,  as  well 
as  larger  marbles,  have  been  found  in  the  ruins.  We  also  noticed 
a  bronze  discus  or  quoit,  thick  in  the  center  and  thin  at  the  edge. 
According  to  the  inscription,  it  was  used  in  the  225th  Olympiad.* 
In  a  room  especially  designed  for  it  stands  the  Hermes  of  Praxit- 
eles, to  me,  the  most  beautiful  statue  in  the  world.  The  smile  of 
the  mobile  mouth  is  as  gentle,  the  curling  locks  as  crisp,  as  when 
the  master  sculptor  gave  the  finishing  touch  to  his  labors.  The 
gathered  mold  of  a  thousand  years  has  stained  the  perfect  oval  of 
the  cheek  and  throat,  but  we  forget  that,  when  under  the  spell  of 
such  beauty.  Several  years  ago,  I  heard  Professor  Thomas  David- 
son, of  New  York,  lecture  on  the  discovery  of  this  figure  m  1878. 
He  said  that,  as  the  statue  was  unearthed  and  lay  at  full  length 
on  the  ground,  he  knelt  down  to  stud}-  the  features,  in  order  to 
determine  whether  or  not  it  was  the  Hermes  so  eagerly  .sought. 
Gazing  intently  upon  it,  he  suddenly  felt  the  warm  blood  rush  to 
his  face,  and  experienced  a  feeling  of  mortification.  Rising,  he 
ijuestioned  himself  as  to  the  cause  of  the  emotion.  It  seemed  that 
the  spirit  of  the  sculptor  had  so  inspired  the  speechless  marble  as 
to  make  him  feel  that  he  had  been  impcrtinentlv  staring  into  the 
face  of  the  living. 

Hermes,    the  favorite  son  and  winged  messenger  of  Zeus,   was 

*  A  period  of  four  years. 


148  PROM  OLYMPIA   TO  ROME 

the  god  of  reproduction,  the  gentle  shepherd  who  protected  the 
newly  born  lamb,  and  the  conductor  of  departing  souls.  He  is 
represented  standing;  one  arm  supports  his  infant  brother  Dionysus, 
while  the  other  is  raised  aloft;  the  hand  probably  held  a  bunch 
of  grapes  temptingly  before  the  eyes  of  the  babe.  A  deep  line 
furrows  the  bi^ow  of  the  Hermes,  making  it  double,  and  passes 
about  the  head,  signifying  that  he  was  a  direct  descendant  of  Zeus. 
As  is  usual  in  ancient  statues  of  divinities,  the  absence  of  the 
organs  of  digestion  is  noticeable  in  the  anatomy  of  the  form.  One 
foot  is  restored;  the  other  still  shows  traces  of  color  in  the  exquisite 
carving  of  the  sandal,  a  thread  of  scarlet,  a  touch,  here  and  there, 
of  gold.  The  visitors  to  the  hall  of  Hermes  walk  about  on  tiptoe 
and  dream  over  the  marvellous  sweetness  of  the  face.  To  see  it 
is  to  love  it,  and,  although  modelled  by  a  pagan  hand,  the  divine 
essence  of  a  soul  truly  great  has  penetrated  the  stone  and  will 
breathe  forth,  forever. 

When  we  came  out  from  the  museum,  we  saw  a  party  of  fifty 
archaeologists,  returning  from  a  visit  to  Tripolitza,  the  only  town 
of  any  size  in  Arcadia.*  The}'  were  mounted  on  mules,  and  were 
the  most  bedraggled,  worn-out-looking  mortals  imaginable.  They 
stopped  at  another  hotel,  the  only  one  besides  ours;  it  is  considered 
inferior  by  tourists.  We  wondered  how  they  fared,  for  the  best 
was  bad  enough. 

When  we  looked  out  of  the  window  that  evening,  at  twilight, 
the  prettiest  pastoral  scene  greeted  our  eyes.  On  one  of  the  hill- 
sides was  a  circular  hedge,  and  a  couple  of  shepherds,  aided  by  the 
liveliest  little  dog  you  ever  saw,  were  gathering  the  sheep  into  the 
rustic  fold.  The  fiock  huddled  together  in  the  center  of  the  in- 
closure,  and  soon  lay  down  to  sleep,  the  mites  of  lambs  cuddling 
up  to  their  woolly  mammas.  The  little  dog  scurried  about  the  out- 
side of  the  hedge,  poking  his  nose  under  each  projecting  bush,  as 
if  the  responsibility  for  stray  lambs  rested  entirely  upon  his  diminu- 
tive shoulders.  At  last,  all  became  quiet,  and  his  dogship  rested 
on  his  liaunches,  with  panting  sides  and  lolling  tongue,  while  the 
shepherds  leaned  on  their  crooks  in  front  of  a  simple  hut  and 
gazed  pensively  off  across  the  valley. 

*  An  inland  province  of  the  Peloponnesus. 


THE    HERMES,    BY    PRAXITELES 


I50  FROM  OLYMPIA    TO  ROME 

On  our  second  trip  to  the  ruins,  the  next  morning,  we  saw 
women  washing  hnen  by  the  river  Cladaus,  so  we  went  out  of  our 
way  to  call  upon  them.  They  seemed  delighted,  and  offered  us 
some  wine  out  of  a  bottle  that  was  not  very  inviting.  They  beat 
their  linen  with  a  broad  paddle,  on  a  Hat  stone.  The  garment  is 
first  soaped,  and  then  hot  water  is  poured  over  it  from  a  tin  dish. 
A  gypsy  kettle,  swung  above  some  fagots,  supplied  the  water. 
About  eleven  o'clock,  we  climbed  a  short  distance  up  Cronius  Hill 
and  sat  down  under  a  tree.  Below,  on  our  right,  were  the  ruins 
of  the  treasure-houses;  on  our  left,  the  country  road  leading  to 
Pyrgos.  Settling  ourselves  in  a  comfortable  position,  we  took  out 
our  notebooks  and  prepared  to  write,  but  the  people  toiling  up  the 
hill  were  so  interesting  that  we  gave  up  our  work  and  passed  an 
hour,  all  too  short,  in  making  several  acquaintances.  A  little  girl 
presented  my  companion  with  a  lovely  nosegay,  and  when  she  re- 
turned the  compliment  with  some  pieces  of  loukoumi,  the  child  did 
not  know  what  to  do  with  them.  Mrs.  M.  ate  a  piece,  as  an  illus- 
tration, and  then  put  one  to  the  girl's  mouth,  which  at  last  opened 
to  receive  it.  A  look  of  supreme  satisfaction  came  into  her  large 
brown  eyes  as  the  sweet  morsel  touched  her  tongue;  doubtless,  she 
had  never  tasted  candy  before.  Later,  two  young  peasant  women 
stopped  and  spoke  to  us,  and  how  we  wished  we  could  understand 
them.  The  younger  had  a  bright-colored  woolen  bag  over  her 
shoulder.  Immediately,  I  coveted  that  bag,  for  I  knew  it  was 
homespun  and  dyed,  and  I  had  long  been  wanting  a  specimen  of 
Greek  weaving.  So  I  opened  my  purse  and  took  out  one  coin 
after  another,  gently  pulling  on  the  bag  all  the  time;  at  last  she 
understood  me,  and  when  a  number  of  drachmes  lay  on  her  palm, 
she  emptied  the  contents  of  the  bag, — raw  potatoes,  large  green 
beans,  a  bottle  of  water  and  an  old  rusty  knife — into  her  uplifted 
dress  skirt,  and  gave  it  to  me.  Her  companion  offered  me  one  of 
the  beans,  which  the  peasants  consider  a  dainty  and  eat  as  we  do 
celery.  The  whole  transaction  seemed  a  joke  to  the  two  women 
and  we  could  hear  their  merry  laughter  after  they  had  passed  out 
of  sight.  Of  course,  the  girl  made  a  sharp  bargain,  but  three  times 
the  amount  paid  would  not  buy  a  Greek  bag  in  America,  and  so 
I  am  content.     Just  then  a  queer  procession  appeared,  evidently  a 


FROM  Or.YMP/A    TO  ROME  151 

family,  mo\ing.  The  father  led  the  way,  driving  a  number  of  cattle 
and  sheep,  and  a  drove  of  pigs  with  sharp  noses  like  the  wild  boars 
in  picture-books;  \\c  was  assisted  by  a  couple  of  boys  with  crooks. 
The  grandmotlu'r  antl  youngest  child  came  next  seated  on  a  pile  of 
bedding,  on  the  back  of  a  superannuated  horse;  the  old  woman  was 
leading  a  mule  loaded  witli  household  goods,  on  top  of  which  were 
four  chickens  tied  down  by  the  legs,  squawking  and  cackling.  The 
grandfather,  with  the  wife  and  the  other  children,  plodded  along 
behind. 

After  eating  a  luncheon  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  Hymettus  honey 
and  dry  bread,  we  started  for  the  little  station.  While  trudging 
beside  the  Cladaus,  a  peasant,  who  was  standing  with  his  wife  in 
the  door  of  a  cottage  on  a  hill,  spied  us,  and  immediately  came 
down,  in\iting  us  to  visit  his  house  and  have  some  iiiasticlta.  We 
were  sorry  to  decline,  as  even  our  cordial  "evcharisto"  *  did  not 
drive  away  the  cloud  of  disappointment  from  his  brow.  The 
country  peojile  are  ver}'  hospitable,  and  it  is  almost  an  affront  to 
refuse  their  in\itations,  but  we  were  pressed  for  time  and  had  not 
the  courage  to  tr\-  iiiastic/ia  again.  There  was  an  eccentric-looking 
German  in  our  car,  going  back  to  Patras;  he  wore  huge  gold  rings 
on  both  forefingers  and  looked  so  wise  that  we  put  him  down  as 
an  archaeologist  at  once. 

Imagine  our  delight,  when,  upon  boardmg  the  steamer  for 
Brindisi,  we  found  the  Professor  and  his  party  on  board.  It  was 
quite  a  reunion,  and  Doctor  C,  who  had  come  to  see  us  off, 
seemed  quite  despondent  when  the  steamer  moved  away  from  the 
dock  and  left  him  behind.  We  were  eciuall}'  sorr\'  to  say  fare- 
well, for  he  had  jirovcd  a  kind  friend  in  assisting  us  to  understand 
his  countr}-.  The  lad\'  and  her  daughter,  with  whom  we  had  talked 
among  the  ruins  at  Olympia,  were  among  the  passengers;  the  mother 
is  an  Austrian  baroness. 

Again,  we  experienced  the  sensations  of  nausea,  until  the  sight 
of  water,  even  in  a  tumbler,  made  us  ill.  We  supposed  our  tortures 
were  over  when  the  steward  aroused  us,  at  one  o'clock  on  the 
second  morning,  announcing  that   the  ship    was    nearing    port;  but, 

*  Thank  \ou. 


152 


FROM  OLYMPIA    TO  ROME 


not  so.  We  were  quarantined  for  two  liours,  while  an  Italian 
doctor  marshalled  us  upon  deck  and  down  again,  counting  us  twice; 
then,  finding  that  the  number  of  shivering,  sulk}-  individuals  did 
not  correspond  with  the  sliip's  register,  he  ordered  us  all  on  deck 
again,  while  the  ship  was  searched.  The  poor  baroness  was  the 
missing  one.  She  had  been  very  ill  and,  as  she  was  going  on  to 
Trieste,    thought    it    unnecessar}'    to    rise.       Nevertheless,    she    was 

.-^-..^  .^  .,^^.,..,.,.^^-_^ forced  to  dress  and    appear 

on  deck,  that  the  authorities 
might  be  assured  that  she 
did  nut  have  any  contagious 
disease.  I  can  see  her  now, 
with  her  face  flushed,  hat 
awry,  and  clothing  simply 
thrown  on,  presenting  a 
comical  contrast  to  her 
former  dignified   self. 

Tarentum,  or,  as  the 
Italians  call  it,  Taranto,  our 
lirst  stopping-place  after 
leaving  Brinclisi,  was  once 
the  most  important  city  of 
Magna  Grsecia.*  It  was 
founded  on  the  borders  of 
the  Gulf  of  Tarentum,  b)' 
a  colony  of  Spartans,  in  707 
B.  C,  and  noted  for  agri- 
culture, sheep  farming  and 
the  manufacture  of  a  purple 
dye  extracted  from  mussel  shells;  this  dye  furnished  the  color  used 
for  the  mantles  of  royalty.  In  the  4th  century,  art  in  coinage  had 
reached  a  high  plane,  and  it  is  said  that  the  gold  coins  of  Taren- 
tum were  the  finest  ever  struck  by  the  Greeks.  The  fishermen, 
there,  speak  a  dialect  so  mixed  with  the  mother  tongue  as  to  be 
hardly  intelligible  to    the    Italians    among  whom    they  dwell.     The 


-LIAN   CHILDRE 


*  Great  Greece. 


FROM  OLYMriA   TO  ROME  153 

town  is  built  on  a  rock  dividing  an  inlet  into  the  "Large  Sea" 
and  the  "Small  Sea."  A  great  variety  of  fish,  and  fine  oysters 
are  caught  in  the  Small  Sea;  stakes  here  and  there  mark  off  the 
oyster  beds.      Alon^  the  shores  are  fishermen's  huts. 

We  engaged  a  carriage  and  drove  through  the  town,  past  the 
extensive  arsenal  and  naval  buildings,  to  the  Villa  Beaumont- 
Bonelli.  It  was  Sunday,  market-day  in  Tarentum,  and  the  peas- 
ants from  the  neighboring  farms  were  in  town,  with  herds  of  cattle, 
sheep  and  goats.  There  was  a  fine  displa\-  of  harness  in  a  jiart 
of  the  piazza  called  the  harness  market;  it  seems  to  be  a  specialty 
of  the  place.  The  gardens  of  the  Villa  Beaumont-Bonelli  are 
charming  with  C3'press  and  rose  walks,  summer-houses  and  arbors; 
vines  are  trained  from   tree  to  tree,  forming  a  perfect  veil  of  green. 

We  had  selected  the  Europa  Hotel  from  the  list  in  our  guide- 
book, as  the  best  in  Tarentum,  and  instructed  our  driver  to  take 
us  there,  after  leaving  the  villa.  We  have  been  travelling  so  many 
weeks  among  people  who  do  not  understand  English,  that  we  have 
acquired  a  careless  habit  of  talking  freely  to  each  other,  before 
an\'  one.  So,  when  our  carriage  stopped  in  front  of  what  appeared 
to  be  a  third-class  hostelry,  regardless  of  a  portly  gentleman  who 
was  standing  in  the  doorway,  I  exclaimed  to  my  companion: — "Foi 
goodness'  sake,  don't  let  us  stop  at  this  horrid-looking  place!  I  am 
sure  we  shall  not  get  a  thing  fit  to  eat,  and  I  am  simply  famished!" 
To  my  disma\',  before  she  could  reply,  the  gentleman  stepped  to 
the  carriage  and  with  an  amused  smile  on  his  face,  said,  in  our 
miither  tongue,  that  he  was  quite  sure  we  could  get  "a  very  good 
dinner  at  the  Europa;"  he  was  a  guest  of  the  house  himself  and 
knew  all  about  it.  He  was  right.  There  was  a  neat  table  with  a 
center-piece  of  raw  vegetables  cut  in  the  shape  of  flowers,  and  our 
hunger  was  appeased  with  some  delicious  sweetbreads,  macaroni 
and  preserves;  all  for  two  lire.  Before  going  to  the  station,  we 
gathered  some  mussel  shells  on  the  beach;  they  are  about  eighteen 
inches  long,   and  exquisitely  tinted  with  pink  and  yellow„ 

As  we  approached  Naples,  the  country  became  more  and 
more  picturesque.  Hamlets  are  clustered  on  the  terraced  mountain 
sides,  far  up  deep  glens;  not  an  inch  of  soil  is  unused,  even  when  the 
slopes  are  nearly  perpendicular.     At  towns  along  the  road,  soldiers. 


154 


FROM  OLVMPTA    TO  ROME 


most  of  them  mere  boys,  boarded  the  train.  They  were  evidently 
peasants,  newly  drafted  for  the  war  in  Africa,  bidding  good-bye  to 
their  wretchedly  poor  families.  The  women  and  children,  in  cloth- 
ing scarcely  better  than  rags,  stood  on  the  platform,  weeping  and 
sobbing,  clasping  in  their  earth-stained  hands  those  of  the  beloved 
husband  or  son   whom  their  country  called.      It  was  pitiful!     There 


CASCADE   IN   kiARDENS  AT   CASERTA 

is  always  something  inspiring  in  defending  one's  fatherland,  but  lor 
these  men,  the  prospect  of  the  long  journey,  torrid  climate  and 
barbarous  foes  was  gloomy  indeed,  as  their  pallid  and  drawn  faces 
indicated. 

We  stayed  over  night  in  Naples  and  left  the  next  morning 
for  Caserta,  where  we  arrived  at  nine  o'clock.  Caserta  is  noted 
especially  for  the  royal  palace,  built  by  Charles  III.  This  is  prob- 
ably the  largest  and  most  richly  decorated  palace  in  Italy;  it  forms 
a  rectangle,  and  contains  two  hundred  and  fifty  rooms,  including  a 
theater.  A  marble  staircase  of  superb  proportions,  Hanked  by  lions, 
leads  to  the  second  story.      We  could  not  even  guess  at  the  height 


FROM  OLYMPIA    TO  ROME  155 

of  the  ceilini^s  in  the  state  apartments;  tliev  were  covered  witli 
splendid  frescoes  and  huni;'  witli  chaiuleHers  of  \'enetian  f^hiss. 
Colossal  gilded  figures  stand  iorth  in  relief  from  the  panels  of  the 
side  walls;  tables  of  lapis  lazuli  and  petrified  wood,  basins  of  alabaster 
and  vases  of  porcelain  rest  upon  mosaic  floors.  Passing  through 
the  king's  drt'ssing-room,  we  glanced  in  a  mirror  and  saw  reflected 
such  tanned  and  sunburned  faces  that  we  retired,   "immejit." 

The  gardens  are  so  extensive  that  it  takes  several  hours  to 
give  them  even  a  cursory  glance;  the  terrace  below  the  cascade 
is  fully  two  miles  from  the  palace.  Groups  of  statuarv  break  the 
fall  of  the  waters,  and  splendid  fountains  toss  their  sprav  into  the 
air,   which  is  fragrant  with  roses  and  lilies. 

The  road  to  Santa  Maria  di  Capua  \'etere  would  delight  a 
bic3cler's  heart;  it  is  perfect.  Bevond  the  shade  trees,  on  either 
side,  lie  farms,  which  look  as  though  thev  had  been  laid  out  by  a 
landscape  gardener,  so  symmetrical  are  the  rows  of  grain,  the  vine- 
yards and  the  orchards.  The  customhouse  officers  at  Capua  did 
not  quite  like  to  permit  us  to  enter  the  town  without  opening  our 
baggage,  which  was  piled  up  in  the  carriage.  However,  as  I  as- 
sured them  that  we  would  take  the  train  to  Rome,  imiriediately  after 
visiting  the    amphitheater,  they  reluctantly  allowed    us  to    proceed. 

At  one  time,  Capua  was  the  largest  citv  in  Italy,  except  Rome. 
It  was  founded  by  the  Etruscans,  a  race  now  extinct.  The  amphi- 
theater, dating  from  the  first  century  B.  C,  is  of  travertine,*  and 
said  to  be  second  in  size  to  the  Colosseum,  only.  But  two  of  the 
eighty  entrance  arches  are  standing.  Beneath  the  arena  measuring 
eighty-three  In-  forty-nine  yards  is  a  network  of  underground  pas- 
sages, galleries  for  the  use  of  gladiators  and  dens  for  wild  beasts. 
Tunnels  led  from  the  latter  to  cages,  which  were  hoisted  b)'  pulleys 
to  the  arena  above.  We  made  out  the  name,  "Caesar, "in  an  in- 
scription upon  a  broken  block  of  marble  lying  on  the  ground. 

A  long  wait  at  the  station  gave  us  ample  time  to  re-read  a 
packet  of  precious  letters  from  the  dear  ones  at  home,  and  to 
make  entries  in  our  neglected  notebooks. 

*  A  white  semi-crvstalline  limestone. 


CHAPTER   XV 

ROME 

E  are  within   the  walls  of  the    "Eternal  City;"  already 
her   magic  spell  is  upon    us    and    she  is    mistress  of 
our  thoughts,  as  once  she  was  mistress  of  the  world. 
There  is  something  fascinating  about  the  very  name, 
"Rome,"    suggesting,    as   it    does,    the    triumphs    of 
C?esar,    the    cruelty  of    Nero    and    the    ambition    of 
.^    Leo  X.      The  architecture  of  the  ancients  is  so  grand 
^  and  solemn  that  it  seems  to  rebuke  modern  attempts 
to   make    the   capital    a    commercial    center;    attempts 
which   ha\'e   meant   bankruptcy   to  thousands  of  people. 

As  we  entered  the  cit}-,  on  the  evening  of  April  28th,  we  were 
dreaming  of  the  Alban  mountains,  the  deserted  Campagna  and  the 
ruins  on  the  tufa  hills  beneath  the  twinkling  lights  of  myriad  stars. 
Suddenly,  we  were  awakened  with  a  start;  the  door  was  flung  open 
and  the  usual  rush  of  p(.)rters  began.  After  a  prolonged  wrestle 
with  the  pompous  customhouse  officer,  who  always  suspects  one  of 
carrying  merchandise,  and  the  cabman,  who  demands  ten  cents 
more  than  one  will  pay,  we  started  for  the  Piazza  di  Spagna,  in 
the  center  of  the  city.  The  small  cab  creaked  under  the  com- 
bined weight  of  ourselves,  four  telescopes,  shawl  straps,  lunch 
basket,  bundle  of  canes,  umbrellas  and  shepherd's  crooks,  and  last, 
but  not  least,  the  marble  Hermes  which  we  have  dubbed  the 
"Baby." 

Rome  is  as  "clean  as  a  whistle."  The  streets  are  paved  with 
square  stones  laid  in  diamond  pattern,  with  a  border  along  the 
narrow  sidewalks.  These  paAing  stones  are  very  thick,  and  sharp- 
ened on  one  side  to  a  point  which  is  driven  into  the  earth.  On 
such  pavements  the  cabs  roll  as  smoothly  as  on  asphalt. 

Our  hotel  is  rated  as  a  second-class  house,  but  what  care  we, 

156 


i5fi 


HOME 


if  aristocratic  travellers  do  not  stop  here,  so  long  as  our  rooms  are 
airy,  the  linen  fresh  and  the  rent,  for  each  person,  only  two  and  a 
half  lire  per  day?  We  have  found  several  good  restaurants  near 
bv,    and,  with    our    little    home    teas,  we  are   delightful! \-    coz}'    and 


FOUNTAIN   OF  TREVl,   ROME 


comfortable.  The  hrst  dinner  cost  us  forty-seven  cents  each,  and 
we  had  beefsteak,  potatoes,  peas  and  a  pudding;  everything  well 
cooked  and  well   served. 

As  surely  as  the  burnished  dome  of  St.  Peter's  first  attracts 
the  eye,  just  so  surely  does  the  tourist  direct  his  steps  toward 
this,  the  largest  church  in  the  world,  as  soon  as  he  is  settled  in 
Rome.  The  vast  piazza  in  front  of  St.  Peter's  is  partly  inclosed 
by  semicircular  colonnades,  and  the  famous  obelisk  brought  from 
Heliopolis    is  in  the    center.     The  facade  is  so  constructed    that  it 


ROME 


1 59 


hides  the  proportions  of  the  dome  from  one  who  is  approachins^. 
Nevertheless,  the  general  eHeet  is  astonishingly  good,  when  one 
considers  how  many  architects  with  different  ideas  had  a  hand  iii 
the  stujiendous  work.  Michael  Angelo  jiartirdly  restored  the  plan 
of  Bramante,  a  Lombard  architect,  who  had  designed  the  church 
in  the  form  of  a  Greek- 
cross*  to  be  surmounted 
bv  a  gigantic  dome. 
After  the  death  of  Michael 
Angelo  in  1564,  the  na\e 
was  altered  by  Carlo 
Maderna,  so  that  the 
church  might  assume  the 
shape  of  a  Latin  cross,  f 
He  also  added  the  un- 
suitable facade.  St. 
Peter's  was  consecrated 
by  Pope  Urban  \'III.  on 
November  i8th,  1626. 
The  cost  of  the  structure 
when  finished  amounted 
to  47,000,000  scudi.;j;  Its 
area  is  18,000  sq.  yds. 
There  are  five  great 
doors;  the  Porta  Santa 
at  the  extreme  right  is 
used  only  at  jubilees, 
which  are  supposed  to 
be  celebrated  once  in 
twentv-five  years.  statue  of  st  peter 

Within  the  brazen  double  doors  at  the  end  of  the  great  nave, 
is  a  slab  of  porph\'ry  whereon  many  of  tlic  emperors  were  crowned. 
A  short  distance  from  the  high  altar,  is  the  seated  bronze  statue 
of  St.  Peter.      Our  attention  was  attracted  to  the  lines  of  worshipers, 

*  A  cross  with  arms  equal  in  length. 

t  A  cross  with  one  arm  longer  than  the  others. 

\  Scudi,  plural  of  scudo,  equal  to  one  dollar. 


i6o  ROME 

who  paused  to  kiss  the  right  foot  of  the  statue.  One  woman,  with 
a  sense  of  cleanliness,  wiped  it  with  her  handkerchief  before  press- 
ing her  lips  to  its  surface.  The  toes  of  this  foot  are  worn  away 
by  the  religious  fervor  of  successive  generations. 

In  the  transepts  and  side  aisles  are  the  elaborate  monuments 
of  many  popes  and  other  notabilities,  which,  with  few  exceptions, 
are    inartistic. 

From  the  high  altar  the  view  of  the  interior  is  striking,  com- 
manding the  tremendous  height  of  the  dome,  which  is  403  ft.  from 
pavement  to  lantern,  and  the  splendid  sweep  of  the  vaulted  aisles. 
Notwithstanding  its  immensity,  the  dome,  brilliant  with  the  purple 
and  gold  of  mo.saics,  is  wonderfully  light  and  gi^aceful.  Beneath  it 
is  the  high  altar,  where  the  pope  alone  officiates.  In  front  of  this 
altar  a  double  flight  of  marble  steps  leads  to  the  crypt;  the  balus- 
trade is  surmounted  by  eighty-nine  ever-burning  lamps.  The  tomb 
said  to  contain  a  portion  of  the  remains  of  St.  Peter  is  in  the  crypt. 
Before  the  bronze  doors  kneels  the  marble  figure  of  Pope  Pius  VI., 
who  established  the  Vatican  museum.  We  made  an  attempt  to 
climb  to  the  top  of  the  dome,  but,  half  way  up,  our  strength  gave 
out,  and  we  were  forced  to  be  content  with  a  view  from  the  great 
gallery,  whence  the  people  below  seemed  like  midgets. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  dressed  in  such  purple  and  fine  linen  as 
our  limited  wardrobes  afforded,  and  drove  to  the  Villino*  Aurora, 
to  call  upon  Hermon  MacNeil,  the  sculptor,  who,  last  year,  won  the 
''Prixdc  Roiuc"^  of  America.  The  Villino  Aurora  is  part  of  the 
Ludovisi  estate,  which  occupies  the  site  of  the  magnificent  gardens 
of  Sallust,  the  historian.  It  is  situated  on  a  low  hill,  reached  by  a 
flight  of  steps  cut  in  the  rock  and  o\-ergrown  with  mosses  and 
flowers.  On  the  ceiling  of  the  entrance  hall  is  a  fresco  by  Guer- 
cino.  ;J:  It  looked  to  me  like  a  very  black  and  ugly  Aurora  disporting 
on  some  heavy  clouds. 

We  were  taken  into  a  large,  airy  studio  connected  with  a 
pretty  suite  of    living  rooms.     A  tall  screen    divides  the  room   into 

*  A  small  villa. 

f  Prize  covering  the  expenses  of  four  years'  study  in  Rome. 
\  Giovanni   Barbieri,  an   Italian  artist  of  the  i6th  century,  surnamed  Guer- 
cino,  on  account  of  a  squint. 


ROME  i6i 

two  parts.  In  one,  the  artist  models  his  red  men,  and  in  the  other, 
his  wife,  who  is  also  a  sculptor,  molds  her  lifelike  portrait  busts. 
Several  finished  statuettes  were  shown,  as  well  as  some  in  progress. 
A  splendid  specimen  of  an  Indian  snake-dancer  running  at  full 
speed,  his  hair  and  the  fringes  of  his  moccasins  flying  in  the  wind, 
suggests  as  a  title,  "An  American  Mercury."  Another,  not  less 
powerful  in  execution,  is  called  "Primitive  Music,"  and  represents 
a  warrior,  half  kneeling,  half  seated,  making  music  with  his  lips 
through  his  crooked  elbow,  while  two  chubbv  Indian  children  are 
enjoying  the  weird  melody.  A  clay  model  of  a  chafing  dish,  to 
be  cast  in  bronze,  the  work  of  Mrs.  MacNeil,  is  a  delight  to  the 
eye.  The  rim,  intended  to  support  the  kettle,  or  pan,  is  upheld 
by  three  supple  female  forms,  their  toes  pressed  together,  their 
bodies  bent  backward  apparentlv  to  avoid  tlie  fire  beneath,  and 
their  heads  turned  to  one  side,  as  if  the  heat  of  the  kettle  were  too 
great.  It  was  so  natural,  so  Pompeian  in  conception,  that  I  gave  a 
cry  of  satisfaction  at  the  cleverness  which  combined  such  a  classic 
design  with  utility.  After  gathering  a  bunch  of  roses  from  the 
garden,  we  returned  to  our  little  room  to  rest  and  think  over  our 
pleasant  day  and  the  happiness  of  meeting  friends  so  far  from  home. 

It  requires  a  stretch  of  imagination  to  believe  that  the  Vatican 
is  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  palace  in  the  world,  for,  as  one 
views  it  from  the  piazza  of  St.  Peter's,  its  appearance  is  that  of  a 
succession  of  yellow  barracks.  Nevertheless,  the  magnificence  of 
the  interior  amply  compensates  for  the  ugly  exterior.  Entering  the 
colonnade  on  the  right,  we  found  ourselves  before  an  entrance 
patrolled  by  Swiss  guards  in  gorgeous  costumes  of  red,  yellow  and 
black.  There,  we  caught  a  glimpse  of  a  marble  staircase  of  vast 
proportions.  After  procuring  from  an  officer  a  permit  to  visit  the 
picture  galleries,  we  mounted  the  stairs  and  proceeded  at  once  to 
the  Sistine  Chapel,  world-renowned  because  of  Michael  Angelo's 
stupendous  frescoes  of  the  "Creation,"  upon  the  ceiling,  and  the 
' '  Last  Judgment, "  upon  the  altar  wall. 

This  man  of  genius  was  born  March  6th,  1475,  in  the  town  of 
Caprese,  Italy.  In  spite  of  many  vicissitudes,  he  became  the 
greatest  sculptor  since  the  days  of  Phidias.  When  Pope  Julius  II. 
commissioned    him  to  paint    the    ceiling  of    the    Sistine  Chapel,    he 


l62 


ROME 


refused,  sayin^  that  he  had  had  httle  training  in  color,  and 
that  sculpture,  not  painting,  was  his  vocation.  But  the  Pope  was 
determined,  and  at  last  succeeded  in  overcoming  his  obstinac}'. 
The  world  owes  him  a  debt  of  gratitude  for  his  persistence.  For 
four  long  years  Michael  Angelo  shut  himself  up  in  the  chapel,  like 
a    hermit    in    his    cave,    and  with    a    candle    fastened    to  his    paper 

helmet,  much  of  the 
time  lying  flat  on  his 
back  on  a  scaffolding, 
]nirsued  his  labors. 
He  was  his  own  mason, 
his  own  assistant. 
Fresco,  in  those  days, 
\w  e  a  n  t  )~)  a  i  n  t  i  n  g  o  n 
fresh  plaster,  the  col- 
ors drying  and  fixing 
as  the  mortar  hard- 
ened. Thev  were  used 
either  pure  or  mixed 
with  a  little  water. 
The  artist  was  obliged 
to  determine,  in  ad- 
\ance,  just  how  much 
surface  he  could  cover 
in  a  certain  number  of 
hours,  and  then  lay  on 
the  requisite  amount 
of  plaster.  The  next 
day,  he  would  add  a 
fresh  section  of  plaster, 
^'''"" '"'"''"  ^    .'-An  continue  painting,  and 

blend  the  lines  of  connection  as  deftly  as  jwssible.  As  the  distance 
from  the  beholder  was  generally  great,  the  joinings  were  not  visible. 
My  first  impression  of  the  chapel  was  that  of  a  long,  narrow 
room  with  one  corner  divided  off  by  a  marble  screen.  Over  the 
altar  at  the  farther  end  of  the  room  the  hand  of  a  majestic  figure 
was  raised  in  judgment,  while  a  cloud  of  angels,  with  faces  aflame, 


164 


ROME 


were  hurling  a  rising  mass  of  the  condemned  back  into  Hades. 
Above,  the  vaulted  ceiling  seemed  alive  with  breathing  humanity. 
Sitting  or  standing,  those  massive  figures  seemed  to  think,  speak 
and  move.  About  them  were  sculptured  arches  and  columns,  a 
perfect    maze    of   architecture,    and    yet  it  was   all    paint;    only  the 

impressions  of  a  mighty 
brain  flung  on  to  the  plas- 
ter by  a  skillful  hand. 

Leaving  the  Sistine 
Chapel,  we  visited  the 
apartments  containing 
the  famous  frescoes  of 
Raphael  Sanzio,  born  at 
Urbino,  Italy,  in  1483, 
and  justly  named  the 
"Prince  of  Painters." 
Pope  Julius  II.  had  given 
the  decorations  into  the 
hands  of  Perugino,  once 
Ivaphael's  master,  and 
an  artist  from  Siena, 
called  Socloma;  but  the 
creations  of  Raphael, 
who  assisted  them,  were 
so  much  admired  that 
the  direction  of  the  entire 
work  was  soon  committed 
td  him.  Four  rooms  were  at  last  decorated  by  Raphael  and  his 
pupils,  while,  at  the  same  time,  Michael  Angelo  was  completing 
his  task  alone,  not  far  away,  in  the  same  palace.  Of  the  frescoes 
of  Raphael,  I  like  the  "Incendio  del  Borgo,  "*  best.  It  was  executed 
solely  by  the  master,  and  represents  a  miracle  supposed  to  have 
been  performed  by  Pope  Leo  IV.,  who,  b)-  making  the  sign  of  tlic 
cross,  suppressed  a  fire  which  had  broken  out  in  the  Borgo,  a 
section  of   the    city  surrounding    St.  Peter's.       The    ancient   church 


M.CHAEL    ANGELO 


*  Conflagration  in  the  Borgo. 


1 66 


ROME 


occupies  the  background,  and  on  the  open  balcony  stands  the  Pope, 
his  first  two  fingers  and  thumb  upHftcd  in  the  conventional  sign. 
In  the  middle  distance  are  blazing  houses  out  of  which  pour  fright- 
ened people,  all  turning  in  appeal  toward  the  pontiff.  One  woman 
with    fl\ing    hair    and  garments,    in  the  right  of    the   foreground,   is 

shrieking  in  her  excite- 
ment, and  }'et  the  big 
water  jar  on  her  head  is 
pertectiv  balanced  by  the 
poise  of  her  body  and 
the  touch  of  her  hands; 
a  clever  bit  of  realism 
marvellously  depicted. 
A  youth,  on  the  left,  is 
bearing  a  paralytic  away 
t  r  o  m  the  d  e  s  t  r  o  }'  i  n  g 
Hames.  In  the  fresco  des- 
ignated as  the  ' '  School 
of  Athens,"  Raphael's 
composition*  is  admira- 
l)ly  displayed. 

As  we  reached  the 
end  of  this  suite  of 
rooms,  a  gnawing  in  our 
vitals  warned  us  that  it 
was  high  noon,  so  we 
crossed  the  piazza  and 
''*^'^*^'-  took  luncheon    at  one  of 

the  restaurants  located  near  by,  for  the  benefit  of  tourists  who  wish 
to  spend  the  day  at  the  Vatican.  There  were  a  couple  of  Italian 
priests  at  a  table  near  ours  and  we  had  a  good  chance  to  see 
them  eat  "Ze  macaroni,"  in  native  style.  The  national  dish  is 
served  steaming  hot,  and  often  forms  the  entire  meal.  Each  man 
took  a  soup  spoon  in  his  left  hand  and  a  fork  in  his  right,  and, 
holding  the  spoon  edge  downward,    made  it    serve  as  a    holder  for 

*The  art  of  arranging  groups  or  parts  of  a  picture  to  form  a  symmetrical 
whole. 


ROME  167 

the  fork.  He  then  wound  on  the  fork  enough  of  the  macaroni  for 
a  mouthful,  and.  rutting  off  the  lianging  coils  with  the  sharp  edge 
of  the  spoon,  con\-eved  the  portion  to  his   mouth. 

To  return  to  the  Vatican, — it  would  be  folly  to  attempt  to 
describe  its  galleries,  which,  besides  pictures  and  statuary,  contain 
vases,  sarcophagi,  candelabra  and  priceless  mosaics.  One  might 
spend  days,  meri'lv  passing  through  the  rooms  without  examining 
the  treasures  singly.  Nevertheless,  I  cannot  resist  mentioning  some 
of  our  favorites.  Although  many  consider  the  "Transfiguration" 
by  Raphael  the  greatest  painting  in  the  world,  I  was  disappointed 
in  it,  and,  personallv,  find  much  more  to  admire  in  the  "Doubting 
Thomas"  by  Guercino. 

One  gallery  is  hung  with  i6th  century  tapestries  made  in 
Brussels,  after  designs  by  Raphael.  They  make  one  forget  all 
other  tapestries,  so  skillfully  are  the  threads  of  wool,  silk  and  gold 
woven  into  faces,  figures  and  draperies,  where  the  minutest  details 
are  carefully  brought  out.  They  were  intended  to  cover  the  lower 
part  of  the  walls  in  the  Sistine  Chapel,  but  were  stolen  during 
the  sacking  of  Rome  in  1527.  Later,  they  were  restored  to  the 
\'atican.  The  one  called  "Feed  my  Lambs"  is  especiallv  fine  as 
regards  the  treatment  of  the  drapery.  In  passing  through  some  of 
the  galleries,  to  reach  the  librarv,  I  noticed  the  figure  of  a  satyr, 
in  green  basalt,  a  rare,  beautiful  stone  with  a  polish  like  that  of 
majolica. 

The  librarv,  contained  in  twenty-five  rooms,  not  including  the 
Great  Hall,  boasts  26,000  MSS.  in  different  languages,  besides 
50,000  printed  books.  The  librarian  is  a  cardinal,  who  is  assisted 
by  an  under  librarian  and  custodians.  No  one  is  permitted  to 
enter  the  rooms  unaccompanied  and,  as  visitors  are  taken  through 
them  as  rapidly  as  possible,  there  is  little  time  to  examine  any- 
thing. We  would  advise  tourists  to  stud}'  their  French  with  a 
strong  Italian  accent,  if  they  expect  to  understand  the  guides,  who, 
moreover,  fire  their  sentences  as  if  from  a  cannon.  We  saw  an 
old  book  delightfully  illustrated  in  water  colors  by  Raphael;  pre- 
sumably,  a  Natural  History. 

The  Great  Hall  is  gorgeous  with  gilding  and  modern  frescoes 
portraying  scenes  in  the  lives  of  the  popes.      Upon  heavily  carved 


ROME 


169 


tables,  witli  tops  of  precious  marble  or  mosaics,  are  costly  gifts 
presented  by  the  crowned  heads  of  Europe  to  different  popes. 
Among  the  most  important  are  two  Sevres*  vases,  one  showing  a 
charming  background  of  the  peculiar  blue  that  no  other  manufactory 
has  ever  been  able  to  imitate;  a  pair  of  mammoth  inkstands  made 
of  solid  blocks  of  rock  crystal;  urns  of  alabaster  and  a  superb  lamp 
of  beautifully  veined 
malachite  upheld  by 
a  group  of  gilt  fig- 
ures. The  glass  cases 
ranged  about  the 
room  contain  articles 
such  as  seals,  bottles, 
gems,  and  ivorv  dip- 
tychs,  f  t  a  k  e  n  from 
the  catacombs  and 
other  tombs. 

At  an  open  win- 
dow of  the  library,  wc 
paused  to  look  out  for 
a  moment  upon  the 
extensive  gardens  of 
the  Vatican.  In  the 
distance  among  the 
trees  is  a  pretty  little 
casino,  where  the 
Pope  spends  some 
time  daily,  in  recrea- 
tion. Although  he  is 
eight3--six  years  old, 
he  is  a  hard  worker 
and  lives  frugally.  The  greater  part  of  his  income  is  derived  from 
the  voluntar}'  contributions  of  Roman  Catholics  throughout  the 
world.  It  is  said  that  he  keeps  his  money  in  strong  boxes  in  his 
private  apartments,  and  that  no  one  knows  the  amount  that  he  has 


APOLLO  BELVEDERE 


*  Porcelain  made  at  Sevres,  near  Paris, 
f  A  folded  writing-tablet  with  two  leaves. 


LEO    XIII 


ROME  171 

hoarded,  not  for  his  own  use,  l)ut  for  the  advancement  of  the 
interests  of  the  Church,  after  his  death.  lie  is  very  fragile;  his 
face  resembles  a  piece  of  old  ivory,  and  only  the  brilliant  eyes 
betray  the  fire  of  the  soul  within.  His  demise  may  be  expected  at 
any  time,  on  account  of  his  advanced  age,  and  there  is  much 
speculation  as  to  his  successor  in  office. 

A  curious  ceremony,  says  a  well-known  writer,  takes  place  at 
the  deathbed  of  a  pope.  As  soon  as  the  breath  has  left  the  body, 
the  chamberlain,  always  one  of  the  cardinals,  taps  three  times 
upon  the  forehead  with  a  silver  hammer,  and,  at  each  blow,  calls 
loudly  upon  the  name  of  the  pope.  If,  at  the  third  call,  there  is 
no  response,  the  announcement  is  made  to  the  household,  and  then 
to  the  world,   that  the  pope  is  dead. 

It  is  a  well-known  fact  that  the  Vatican  contains  the  finest 
collection  of  sculpture  extant,  arranged  in  thirteen  galleries,  each 
in  itself  a  casket  of  jewels.  The  principal  statues  occupy  separate 
alcoves  or  small  rooms,  and  the  light  is  excellent.  A  gem  in 
marble  stands  in  the  Belvedere*  of  the  Vatican;  it  is  the  "Apollo 
Belvedere, "  said  to  have  been  discovered  near  Porto  d'  Anzio,  the 
ancient  Antium.  The  god  is  represented  standing  erect;  the  left 
hand  originalh-  held  the  aegis,  a  shield  with  the  head  of  Medusaf  in 
the  center,  with  which  he  is  supposed  to  be  .striking  terror  into  the 
Gauls  who  have  attacked  his  sanctuary  at  Delphi.  The  expression 
of  the  face  indicates  that  Apollo  is  fully  conscious  of  his  superiority 
to  mortals;  the  lips  are  curved  proudly,  and  the  nostrils  dilated 
with  passion.  The  "Discobolus";}:  by  Myron,  the  Greek  sculptor, 
though  badlv  restored,  commands  immediate  attention  and  admira- 
tion. This  figure,  that  of  a  lithe  young  Greek  throwing  the  disc, 
is  the  embodiment  of  physical  grace.  His  toes,  pressed  firmly  into 
the  earth,  display  the  tension  of  the  muscles  as  he  leans  lightly 
forward;  the  right  arm  swings  backward,  and  the  hand  holding 
the  disc  of  bronze  is  beautifullv  modelled.  The  famous  group  of 
the  Laoco5n  was  executed    by  three  Rhodian  artists.     Laocoon,   a 

*  A    small   building   or    part  of  a   building  from   which   a  fine  view  can     be 
obtained. 

f  A  m}-th  who  had  the  power  of  turning  all  who  looked  upon  her  into  stone. 
X  Disc  or  quoit  thrower. 


172  ROME 

priest  sworn  to  celibacy,  was,  with  his  two  sons,  condemned  by 
Apollo  to  be  strangled  by  serpents,  near  the  altar  that  he  had 
desecrated  by  a  secret  marriage.  In  his  own  death  agony  the 
father  seems  to  have  forgotten  the  peril  of  his  children,  who  cr^•  in 
vain  for  succor,  their  slender  bodies  encircled  by  the  coils  of  the 
reptiles  whose  poisoned  fangs  are  fastened  in  their  quivering  flesh. 
The  sufferings  of  all  three  are  represented  with  terrible  realism. 
Casts  of  these  marbles  are  to  be  found  in  almost  every  art  museum 
in  America. 

The  Vatican  is  connected  by  an  underground  passage  with  the 
Castle  of  St.  Angelo,  built  as  a  family  mausoleum,  in  136  A.  D., 
by  Hadrian.  The  Bridge  of  St.  Angelo  spans  the  yellow  waters 
of  the  Tiber,  joining  the  Borgo,  as  the  Vatican  quarter  is  called,  with 
the  main  part  of  the  city.  This  mausoleum,  a  cylinder  of  travertine 
eighty  yards  in  diameter,  was  once  incrusted  with  marble.  For 
several  centuries  it  was  used  as  a  fortress;  a  portion  of  it  now 
serves  as  a  prison,  and  it  is  necessary  to  obtain  a  permit  from  the 
military  commander,  in  order  to  visit  it.  Our  guide  led  us  through 
narrow,  damp  corridors,  up  staircases  and  down,  until  we  had  not 
the  remotest  idea  whether  we  were  on  a  level  with  the  ground  or 
far  above  it,  as  the  light  is  admitted  only  through  narrow  slits 
high  up  in  the  walls.  The  vault  where  the  Roman  emperors 
were  interred  is  shown,  but  the  sarcophagi  and  urns  have  long 
since  disappeared.  Several  large  rooms  were  fitted  up,  in  the  past, 
for  the  popes,  who,  availing  themselves  of  the  secret  passage  from 
the  Vatican,  took  refuge  in  the  castle,  when  necessary.  We  entered 
the  damp,  loathsome  cell  where  the  beautiful,  high-born,  but  ill- 
fated,  Beatrice  Cenci  is  said  to  have  been  incarcerated;  the  torture 
chamber;  and,  lastly,  the  place  where  the  old  drawbridge  used  to 
swing  out  across  the  moat.  The  torture  chamber  is  a  large,  square 
room  without  windows.  From  the  four  walls,  about  twelve  feet 
from  the  floor,  protrude  heavy  iron  bars,  each  with  a  bunch  of  tow 
on  the  end.  Similar  bunches  soaked  in  oil  and  ignited  furnished 
the  only  light.  The  victims  were  bound,  and  strung  up  by  a  cord 
to  the  bars,  while  the  torturers  burned  their  feet  with  red-hot  irons. 
Here,  Beatrice  confessed  that  she  had  been  an  accomplice  in  the 
murder  of  the  unnatural   father  who  blighted  her  life. 


174 


ROME 


In  the  Barbcrini  Palace  there  is  a  portrait  of  this  voung 
martyr,  painted  b\-  Guido  Reni.  The  face  is  full  of  pathos  and 
the  large,   sad  eyes  haunt  one  with  an  appeal  for  s\mpathy. 

But  let  us  turn  to  brighter  scenes.  You  will  be  glad  to  go 
for  a  little  stroll   down  a  street  of    the    Borgo  and    see  the    shops. 


BEATRICE    CENCI 


Here,  are  sold  the  striped  Roman  scarfs  and  silken  caps.  In 
windows  and  on  sidewalks  are  offered  reputed  antiques  of  every 
description.  There  are  fascinating  bakeshops  with  cakes  of  all  sizes, 
shapes  and  colors  to  suit  the  means  of  the  hungry  pedestrian.  So 
many  mosaics  are  displayed  on  the  counters  and  peddled  on  the 
streets  that  one  feels  as  if,  some  day,  all  Rome  would  have  to  be 
paved  with  these  bits  of  color  in  order  to  consume  the  stock. 

The   Borgo  has  changed  since  the  good  old  days  when  socialistic 
meetings  were  few.      Then,  a  cobbler  was  proud  of  his  calling  and 


THE    LAOCOON 


ROME  177 

trained  his  sons  to  follow  it,  that  successive  generations  woi'king 
at  the  same  trade  might  develop  artisans  that  should  be  a  credit 
to  the  city.  Then,  a  woman  was  content  to  spin,  weave  and  cook, 
by  day,  and,  in  the  evening,  fasten  a  rose  in  the  folds  of  her  neck- 
erchief,  to  win  a  smile  from   husband  or  sweetheart. 

When  we  are  disposed  to  criticise  the  popes  or  other  digni- 
taries for  taxing  the  people  in  order  to  rear  enduring  monuments 
of  architecture,  it  is  well  to  remember  the  vast  number  of  persons 
thus  furnished  with  work,  which  is  the  salvation  of  the  poor.  They 
do  not  want  the  charity  of  the  powerful  or  rich,  but  opportunities 
for  honest  labor.  If  the  rich  could  realize  this,  and  would  spend 
their  gains,  instead  of  hoarding  them  for  heirs  to  squabble  over,  we 
should  have  no  bankrupt  countries,  no  hard  times,  and  our  cities 
would  increase  in  beauty  as  well  as  in  size.  Large  sums  of  money 
are  necessary  for  the  development  of  art,  and  one  cause  of  its 
decadence  is  the  small  demand  for  true  works  of  art.  Once,  people 
sought  out  and  encouraged  men  of  genius.  Had  it  not  been  for 
their  rich  patrons,  we  should  probably  never  have  heard  of  ?ilichael 
Angelo  or  Raphael. 

No  city  in  the  world  is  so  rich  as  Rome  in  places  of  historic 
interest,  and  nowhere  is  the  fact  more  apparent  than  in  the 
Roman  Forum.  It  was  once  the  principal  meeting-place  of  the 
people,  adorned  with  temples,  triumphal  arches  and  columns,  and 
surrounded  by  shops.  Councils  of  state  were  held  in  its  basilicas, 
and  orations  delivered  from  its  rostra.  Processions  wound  along 
the  sacred  way  which  crossed  it  near  the  round  temple  where  vestal 
virgins  fed  the  flame  on  the  altar  of  their  goddess.  A  blue-coated 
official  guards  the  entrance  to  the  Forum,  and  for  a  lira  grants 
the  privilege  of  visiting  the  ruins  so  well  known  to  every  student 
of   Roman   history. 

After  passing  the  three  remaining  columns  of  the  temple  of 
the  twin  gods.  Castor  and  Pollux,  we  stepped  upon  the  pavement 
of  the  Basilica  Julia,  named  for  Caesar's  daughter.  The  central 
part,  where  tribunals  were  held,  is  of  African  and  Phrygian  *  mar- 
bles.    On  close  examination,  circles  can  be  seen,  cut  into  the  now 

*  From  Phrygia  in  Asia  Minor. 

12 


178 


ROME 


blackened  pavement  of  the  side  aisles;  here,  the  Romans  amused 
themselves  with  a  game  similar  to  draughts.  Beneath  one  end  of 
the  Basilica  runs  the  Cloaca  Maxima,  the  great  sewer  dating  from 
the  time  of  the  kings.     At  this  point  it  is  uncovered. 

Near    by,   is    the   old    rostrum    which    took    its    name    from    the 
rostra,  the  beaks  of  ships  captured  in  war  and  fastened  to  its  base. 


J"  1«^ 

a    I 


ii|fil'*4a  \fliiMil»i 


•I  % 


iiiiiilii^!" 


THE    COLOSSEUM 

F'rom  this  rostrum  Cicero  delivered  his  orations,  and  tt)  it  his  head 
was  subsequentl)-  affixed;  while  from  the  one  near  the  center  of 
the  Forum,  Mark  Antony  delivered  his  famous  oration  over  the 
body  of  Julius  Csesar. 

The  great  Arch  of  Septimius  Severus  is  full  of  interest,  and  so 
is  the  House  of  the  Vestals,  the  virgins  who  played  such  a  promi- 
nent part  in  the  religious  and  political  life  of  ancient  Rome.  At 
one  end  of  the  central  court  is  a  square  cistern  lined  with  marble; 
inside,  are  three  narrow  steps  which  the  maidens  descended  to  fill 
their  jars,  when  the  water  was  low.  It  is  interesting  to  know  that 
they  were  permitted  to  use  only  the  water  which  fell  directly  from 
the  clouds  into  reservoirs  set  apart  for  their  use. 


i8o  ROME 

Until  I  saw  the  Basilica  of  Constantine,  I  hardly  appreciated 
what  the  Roman  architects  of  the  past  were  capable  of  doing. 
The  span  of  the  central  hall  is  So  ft. ;  the  height,  1 1 2  ft. ;  so  grand 
is  the  vaulted  roof  that  it  seems  the  work  of  more  than  human 
hands. 

The  view  of  the  Palatine  Hill  from  this  point  is  charming. 
Just  beyond  the  ruins,  on  the  crest  of  the  hill,  stands  a  modern 
yellow  house;  a  fountain,  embowered  in  trailing  vines,  plays  in  a 
niche  in  its  facade,  tumbling  in  a  cascade  to  a  stone  basin  be- 
neath; the  remnants  of  a  garden  balustrade  decorated  with  j^otted 
plants,  and  the  crumbling  walls  of  several  ancient  structures  below, 
complete  the  picture. 

We  walked  down  the  Sacred  Way  to  the  exit  and  then  over 
to  the  Colosseum,  which  occupies  the  site  of  an  artificial  lake  in 
the  gardens  of  Nero.  Begun  by  Vespasian,  and  finished  by  Titus, 
80  A.  D.,  it  is  the  largest  amphitheater  in  the  world,  and  takes 
its  present  name  from  the  colossal  statue  of  Nero,  as  god  of  the 
sun,  which  formerly  stood  near.  Its  completion  was  inaugurated 
by  gladiatorial  combats  in  which  many  thousand  wild  animals  were 
killed.  The  external  circumference  measures  576  yds.;  the  long 
diameter,  205  yds.,  the  shorter,  170  yds.,  and  the  height,  156  ft. 
Seats  for  87,000  spectators  rose  in  tiers  from  the  arena  and  were 
reached  by  arcades  and  numerous  flights  of  steps.  The  front  row 
of  seats  was  reserved  for  the  emperor,  his  court  and  the  vestal 
virgins.  The  Christian  Emperor  Honorius,  in  405  A.  D. ,  abolished 
gladiatorial  contests,  though  fights  between  beasts  were  permitted. 
It  was  not  until  the  15th  century  that  the  people  began  to  regard 
the  Colosseum  as  a  kind  of  quarry;  from  that  time  on,  its  columns 
and  decorations  were  removed  and  used  in  the  construction  of  other 
buildings.  In  the  i8th  century,  Benedict  XIV.  consecrated  it  to 
the  blood  of  the  martyrs  that  had  been  shed  there,  thus  putting 
a  stop  to  the  destruction 

South  of  the  Colosseum  is  the  great  Arch  of  Constantine, 
erected  to  commemorate  his  victory  over  Maxentius,  and  his  con- 
version to  Christianity. 

We  were  greatly  interested  in  the  small  portion  of  the  Golden 
House    of   Nero    which    was    excavated    in    18 13.      No    act    of    this 


ROME 


i8i 


profligate  and  brutal  emperor  so  offended  the  people  as  the  build- 
ing of  .  this  extensive  palace  which  blocked  up  many  important 
thoroughfares.  The  passages  and  rooms  are  damp  and  unwhole- 
some; delicate  ferns  grow  between  the  broken  stones  of  the  walls, 
which  are  covered  with  green  mold.  In  an  apartment  designated 
as   a  dining-room    is    a  large   fountain-basin,    and   in  the  pavement, 


ViLLA    BORGHESE,   ROME 

the  head  of  a  Roman  lady,  in  mosaic.     The  frescoes  in  one  of  the 
passages  were  copied  by  Raphael. 

One  sunny  afternoon  our  artist  friends  called  for  us,  and  we 
started  for  the  Villa  Borghese.  The  Borghesi  were  among  the 
most  powerful  of  the  Roman  nobility.  Camillo  Borghese  assumed 
the  title  of  Paul  V.,  when  he  became  pope  in  1605.  The  celebrated 
Borghese  collection  of  pictures  and  statuary  has  been  removed 
from  the  old  palace  in  the  city  to  the  Casino  of  the  villa,  in  the 
suburbs.  It  seems  a  pity  that  this  estate  should  be  in  the  hands 
of  a  receiver,  but  such  is  the  melancholy  fact.  The  public,  for  a 
trifling  fee,  can  now  enjoy  the  beautiful  park,  where  once  noble 
dames  and  cavaliers  walked  in  seclusion.  Within  the  gates  is  a 
narrow  track,  and  on  it  a  funn}'  little  go-cart  in  the  shape  of  a 
car    holding    eight    i:>eople,    besides    the    driver,    and    drawn    b\'    a 


I  82 


ROME 


donkey.  When  this  Lilhputian  vehicle  begins  to  move,  it  seems 
as  if  one  were  playing  at  street  car.  A  short  ride  brought  us  to 
the  center  of  the  grounds,  dotted  with  summerhouses  representing 
ruined  temples.  There  are  pretty  lakes  where  swans  and  ducks 
swim  about  or  rest  in  the  shade  of  giant  trees  whose  twisted  roots 
extend  into  the  water.      We  had  an  al  fresco  *  lunch  of  fresh   milk 


PAULINE    BORGHESE 

and  sweet   biscuit  at  a  dairy,    and  then  walked  through  groves   of 
magnificent  evergreen  oaks  to  the  Casino. 

The  antiques  in  this  museum  are  only  copies  of  the  originals 
now  in  the  Louvre  gallery  in  Paris.  The  first  object  that  arrests 
the  attention  is  the  beautiful  statue  of  Pauline,  sister  of  Napoleon  I., 
and  wife  of  Prince  Camillo  Lodovico  Borghese.  She  is  repre- 
sented as  Venus,  and  surely  the  goddess  herself  could  not  have 
possessed  greater  charms.  In  the  room  beyond,  is  a  charming 
piece  of  statuary  by  Bernini,  entitled  Apollo  and  Daphne.  The 
nymph,    jiursued  by  Apollo,    is  just  changing  into  a  laurel  tree. 

*  Open  air. 


APOLLO  AND    DAPHNE 


i84  ROME 

We  saw  two  famous  pictures  by  Titian,  one  of  the  c^^reatest 
painters  of  the  15th  century.  He  was  born  at  Cadore,  Italy,  and 
began  to  paint  when  a  mere  child,  using,  at  first,  the  juices  ex- 
tracted from  flowers.  During  the  ninety-nine  years  of  his  life  he 
is  said  to  have  painted  more  than  seven  hundred  pictures,  and, 
from  his  knowledge  of  pigments,  he  was  styled  the  "master  of 
color. "  The  coloring  of  the  two  paintings  in  the  Borghese  collec- 
tion is  superb;  only  a  man  born  with  a  rainbow  in  his  soul  could 
have  created  them. 

An  attractive  study  is  the  head  of  a  woman,  done  in  silver 
point  by  Leonardo  da  Vinci.*  Silver  point  is  a  very  old  and 
unique  manner  of  drawing  on  a  piece  of  prepared  gray  paper  with 
a  sharp-pointed  instrument  of  silver.  A  gentle  pressure  of  the  silver 
point  makes  a  light  line,  and  a  heavier  stroke,  a  dark  one.  The 
effect  produced  is  peculiarly  delicate. 

From  the  Villa  Borghese  it  is  but  a  short  drive  to  the  Villa 
Medici,  formerly  owned  by  the  powerful  Medici  family  of  Florence. 
Since  1801  it  has  been  occupied  by  the  French  Academy  of  Art. 
The  ' '  Prix  de  Rome, "  which  is  periodically  offered  by  France, 
enables  the  winner  to  study  four  years  in  this  academy.  Many 
architects,  sculptors  and  painters  are  at  work  in  the  studios  scat- 
tered about  the  grounds.  Some  of  them  are  mere  inclosures  formed 
by  trees  and  hedges;  here,  the  artist  can  study  the  human  form  in 
brieht  sunli<iht.  As  the  student  has  so  short  a  time  in  which  to 
show  his  mother  country  what  he  can  do,  he  is  not  apt  to  waste 
it.  The  exhibition  now  open  at  the  villa  shows  the  work  of  this 
year,  and  some  of  the  productions  are  certainly  very  clever. 

One  painter  exhibits  a  large  canvas  entitled  "Magdalen  sees 
Christ  for  the  first  time."  The  principal  figure,  draped  in  white, 
with  upturned  face  all  aglow,  stands  on  the  landing  of  steps  leading 
up  to  a  gloomy  stone  house  of  many  stories.  It  is  so  close  to  its 
neighbors  as  to  lea\-e  only  a  narrow  strip  of  sky,  about  twelve 
inches  long,  at  the  very  top  of  the  big  picture;  but  it  is  like  real 
sky,  so  natural  that  it  makes  one  wonder  if  there  is  not  a  slit  in  the 
canvas.     Another,  the    "Marriage  of  Flora,"  is  in  the  impressionist 

*  Italian  painter,  1452-1519. 


ROME  185 

style.  Nude  figures  are  disporting  in  a  garden  gay  with  man}- 
hued  blossoms.  A  winged  god  descends  to  claim  the  Queen  of 
Flowers,  from  whose  blushing  face  a  zephyr  half  lifts  a  veil.  The 
whole  scene  is  quivering  under  the  blazing  sun  of  midday. 

Of  the  sculpture,  I  considered  "Pour  le  Drapeau  "*  tlie  strongest 
piece  of  work.  A  soldier,  mortally  wounded,  still  upholds  the  shat- 
tered  flagstaff. 

The  plans  in  the  architectural  exhibit  are  executed  with  deli- 
cacy and  neatness,  the  subjects  being  Greek  temples  or  ruins. 

The  chief  pleasure  of  the  afternoon,  however,  was  a  walk  through 
the  gardens.  We  called  at  one  of  the  studios,  and  our  friends 
presented  us  to  M.  Lefebvre,  a  fourth-year  "Prix  de  Rome"  man, 
engaged  upon  a  colossal  group  of  "Niobef  and  her  Children."  This 
modern  Niobe  is  of  massive  build, — such  a  figure  as  could  have 
borne  fourteen  children, — and  not  the  girlish  goddess  of  the  ancient 
sculptor.  The  last  two  of  her  boasted  treasures  lie  dead  before 
her,  the  arrows  of  Apollo  piercing  their  tender  flesh.  In  agony  of 
mind  she  has  sunk  on  one  knee,  and  with  her  right  hand  has  torn 
from  her  childless  breast  the  drapery,  unconsciously  holding  it  like  a 
shield  above  the  sweet,  dead  faces  of  the  little  ones,  while  her  head 
falls  back  and  tears  gush  forth  from  eyes  destined  to  weep  forever. 

A  chubby  little  five-year-old  boy, — one  of  the  models, — lay 
asleep  on  some  cushions  where  he  had  thrown  himself  after  posing; 
his  rosy  cheeks  and  rounded  limbs  betokened  the  best  of  health, 
although  he  is  a  professional  and  spends  most  of  his  days  in  a 
state  of  nature. 

Lefebvre  is  a  little  fellow  with  a  dark  face  and  bright,  rest- 
less eyes.  As  he  moved  about  his  creation,  telling  us  of  the  vex- 
ations and  the  difficulties  he  had  experienced  in  arranging  the 
figures  in  a  satisfactory  and  symmetrical  group,  it  was  evident  that 
his  whole  soul  was  in  his  art. 

Naturally,  our  visit  to  this  villa  of  the  Medici  recalled  to  mind 
the  Cardinal  Giovanni,  who  took  the  name  of  Leo  X.  when  he 
became  pope  in  15 13,  and  who  was  one  of  the  greatest  patrons  of 

*  For  the  flag. 

f  Apollo  slew  the  fourteen  children   of   Niobe,  who   scoffed   at   his   mother 
because  she  had  only  two. 


ROME 


187 


art  and  literature  Rome  ever  knew.  To  him  Raphael  owed  much 
of  his  success.  By  the  sale  of  indulgences,*  in  the  year  15 17,  Leo 
brought  about  his  head  that  mighty  storm  which  cleared  the  air 
for  so  many  thinking  minds, — the  storm  of  the  Reformation,  a  term 
almost  synonymous  with  the  orator  and  preacher,  Martin  Luther. 
A  centur\'  later,  Rt)me  was  governed  by  that  craftv  old  pontiff. 
Innocent  X.,  whose  wonderful  portrait  by  the  Spanish  master, 
Velasquez,  is  in  the  Doria  Palace.  This  artist  is  considered  by 
many  to  be  the  greatest    portrait    painter  who    has   ever  lived.      It 


ST.    PETER'S    FROM    THE    PINCIAN    HILL 

would  be  difficult  to  imagine  anything  more  magnificent  than  the 
treatment  of  the  pope's  white-robed  figure  against  the  crimson 
velvet  of  the  chair,  placed  in  front  of  a  curtain  of  the  same  texture 
and  hue.  Searching,  twinkling  eyes  light  up  the  shrewd  face;  a 
thm  veil  of  chin  whiskers  shows  the  florid  skin  beneath.  The 
flexible,  tapering  Angers  of  the  delicate  hands  tell  their  own  tale  of 
diplomac}^  and  hypocrisy.  By  the  way,  it  is  an  interesting  fact, 
that  in  the  portraits  of  persons  of  noble  descent  the  fingers  are 
always  represented  as  tapering;  an  indication  of  generations  of  men 
and  women  who  have   performed  no  manual  labor. 

For   centuries  it  has  been   the  custom  of   fashionable    Romans 


*  Absolution  from  the  penances  of  the  church. 


i88 


ROME 


to  drive  to  the  Pincian  and  down  the  Corso,  from  four  to  seven 
o'clock  on  pleasant  afternoons.  The  Pincian  Hill  takes  its  name 
from  the  palace  of  the  Pincii  family,  which  once  stood  on  its 
summit.  In  the  early  part  of  the  first  century  B.  C,  it  was  covered 
with  the  splendid  gardens  of    the  Roman   general,  Lucullus.      Fine 

drives  wind  under 
the  trees,  past 
fountains  and  be- 
tween long  rows 
of  marble  pedes- 
tals crowned  by 
the  busts  of  noble 
Romans.  Some 
of  the  faces  have 
been  mutilated  in 
times  of  war,  but 
their  dilapidated 
appearance  does 
not  detract  from 
the  fascination  of 
the  place.  The 
most  enchanting 
views  are  to  be 
obtained  from  this 
height,  especially 
at  sunset;  then, 
the  dome  of  St. 
Peter's  looks  like 
a  great  golden 
bowl,  inverted, 
and  all  the  sur- 
rounding hills  are 

UMBERTO.  KING   OF    ITALY  bathcd      \X\       glory. 

A  military  band  gives  a  concert  several  times  a  week,  during  the 
driving  hours,  when  one  may  often  see  King  Umberto  and  Queen 
Margherita. 

We  had  the  privilege  of  passing  the  royal  carriages,  with  their 


ROME 


scarlet  liveries,  twice  the  first  evening  we  were  on  the  Pincian. 
Since  the  time  of  the  attempt  upon  the  King's  life,  several  years 
ago,  the  sovereigns  have  not  driven  together.  The  King  is  a 
handsome  man  of  large  frame,  though  not  very  tall,  and  has 
piercing  eyes,  snow-white  hair  and  heavy,  long  mustaches  curled 
up  at  the  corners. 
He  is  always  ac- 
companied by  an 
officer  of  his  house- 
hold, and,  wher- 
ever he  goes,  is 
greeted  with 
cheers  and  un- 
covered heads. 
These  salutations 
he  returns  in  the 
most  cordial  man- 
ner. It  is  beauti- 
ful  to  see  the 
Queen  when  she 
passes  the  King 
on  the  afternoon 
d  r i  \- e.  As  the 
equipage  of  the 
King  approaches, 
Margherita  rises 
from  her  seat 
slowly  and  stead- 
ily and  gravely 
bends  her  grace- 
ful for  m ,  and 
then,  as  slowly, 
resumes  her  place.  margherita,  queen  of  italy 

They  are  said  to  detest  pomp  and  display  of  any  kind;  both  are 
industrious  and  charitable,  and,  above  all,  devoted  to  each  other. 
The  hour  before  dinner  they  spend  together,  and  whoever  happens 
to  come  then,  on  business  or  pleasure,  to  see  the  King,  must  wait. 


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I  go 


ROME 


Their  onl)-  child,  Vittorio  Emanuele,  Prince  of  Naples,  is  not  robust 
physically,  and  some  think  him  mcntall}'  inferior  to  his  parents. 
Great  bitterness  exists  in  Rome  between  the  church  and  the 
state.  Pope  Leo  XIII.  not  acknowledging  the  supremacy  of  the 
King  in  temporal  aiifairs.  The  city  seems  on  the  eve  of  a  financial 
crisis,  so  much  of  her  wealth  having  been  exhausted  in  extensive 
speculations   which  have   turned  out  badlv.      The  poor  grow  yearly 


DRIVE    ON    THE    PIKCIAN,   ROME 


more  and  more  helpless.  The  pride  of  the  papal  party  will  never 
bend,  and  when  the  crash  comes,  it  will  be  found,  like  Chaiie- 
magne  in  his  tomb,    robed  in  state   and  with  scepter  in  hand. 

The  royal  palace  is  on  the;  Quirinal  Hill  and  has  been  the 
residence  of  the  King  since  the  taking  of  Rome  in  1870.  The 
grand  drawing-room  is  hung  with  Gobelin  tapestries  of  unusual  size 
and  beauty.  A  full  length  portrait  of  Vittorio  Emanuele  II.,  father 
of    the  present  King,    faces    the  crimson-canopied    throne  in  one  of 


ROME  191 

the  state  apartments.  The  walls  of  the  suites  of  rooms  are  covered 
with  satin  damask  in  different  colors,  shading  from  light  to  dark, 
with  furniture  to  match.  An  oil  painting  of  the  Queen,  in  full 
court  costume  and  wearing  her  famous  necklace  of  pearls,  hangs 
in  one  of  the  reception  rooms.  She  is  very  fond  of  these  gems, 
as  "  jMargherita"  means  a  pearl,  and,  each  year,  her  husband  adds 
to  the  necklace,  which  is  so  long,  now,  that  the  lower  strand  reaches 
below  her  waist. 

After  our  drive  on  the  Pincian,  we  joined  the  procession  on  the 
Corso,  thus  named  from  the  races  that  once  took  place  there  during 
the  Carnival.  This  thoroughfare  is  very  narrow,  and  here  the  horses 
slacken  their  pace  and  the  occupants  of  carriages  exchange  greet- 
ings and  the  latest  gossip,  or  draw  up  to  the  Cafte  di  Roma,  or 
Peroni's,  for  an  ice.  Little  tables  seating  four  are  placed  in  front 
of  the  caffc,  where  the  most  delicious  creams  and  ices  are  served. 
At  Peroni's  there  is  a  long  counter  covered  with  fancy  cakes;  each 
person  takes  a  plate,  makes  his  own  selection  and  carries  it  to  his 
table.  After  the  refreshments  are  finished,  the  waiter  asks  how 
many  cakes  one  has  eaten,  and  the  bill  is  settled  accordingly. 
Speaking  of  tables,  reminds  me  of  home,  and  how  hungry  I  am  for 
an  American  dish;  positively,  a  baked  potato  and  some  creamed 
codfish,    plebeian  as   they  are,  would  seem  food  "fit  for  the  gods." 

Though  it  was  raining  "cats  and  dogs, "  we  went  to  three  churches 
the  first  Sunday  after  our  arrival.  It  is  pleasant  to  attend  service, 
and  examine  the  building,  later.  Early  mass  found  us  at  Santa 
Maria  Maggiore,  so  called  as  it  is  the  largest  of  the  eight v  Roman 
churches  dedicated  to  the  Virgin.  The  high  altar  is  a  great  sar- 
cophagus of  porphyry,  which  the  Romans  say  contains  the  remains 
of  St.  Matthew,  but,  as  the  cathedral  at  Salerno  also  claims  them, 
one  is  torn  between  conflicting  opinions. 

A  drive  of  one  and  a  half  miles  brought  us  to  Santa  Croce 
in  Gerusalemme,  one  of  the  seven  pilgrimage  churches,  erected  by 
St.  Helena,  who  is  said  to  have  discovered  the  true  cross.  The 
relics  of  the  cross  are  kept  here  and  exhibited  annually,  on  May  3rd. 
I  wish  you  could  have  seen  the  faith  in  the  rapt  faces  of  the 
people,  when  the  relics  were  held  aloft  by  the  bishop!  You  would 
have  been  apt  to  think.  What  does   it  matter,  whether  these  frag- 


192  ROME 

nients  of  wood  be  true  or  false,  so  long  as  the  souls  of  the  masses 
are  lifted  above  the  dead  level  of  everyday  life  and  they  are  made 
to  feel  something  of  the  Divine  Spirit  within?  The  ceremony  was 
impressive.  The  procession  of  priests  headed  by  the  bishop  left 
the  high  altar,  filed  through  a  side  door,  and  a  few  moments  later 
appeared  in  the  gallery  half  way  up  to  the  roof.  As  each  relic, 
inclosed  in  a  case  of  glass  and  gold,  was  handed  to  the  bishop,  he 
reverently  kissed  it  and  passed  it  to  the  priest  next  in  rank,  when 
it  was  again  saluted;  the  choir,  meanwhile,  chanting  its  glory. 

A  group  of  peasants  from  the  Campagna  were  a  picture  as 
they  knelt  together.  The  oldest,  a  man  probably  seventy  years 
of  age,  wore  a  sleeveless  coat  of  white  lambskin  over  his  home- 
spun suit;  a  younger  man,  presumably  his  son,  with  a  fine  Italian 
countenance  reminding  me  of  the  portraits  of  Garibaldi,  held  a 
dear  little  boy  about  six  years  of  age,  by  the  hand.  The  little 
fellow  was  clothed  in  velveteen  trousers  and  round  jacket,  his  little 
shirt  open  at  the  throat  and  a  soft  Alpine  hat  in  his  fat  fingers. 
He  had  the  round  eyes  and  curly  dark  hair  often  seen  in  the  chil- 
dren playing  about  the  Piazza  di  Spagna,  while  waiting  for  engage- 
ments to  pose  as  models  for  artists.  The  mother,  lugging  a  sleeping 
baby,  had  found,  apparently,  neither  time  nor  inclination  to  deck 
herself  in  holiday  garb;  even  the  handkerchief  tied  under  her  chin 
was  old  and  faded. 

Would  you  like  to  know  what  we  had  for  our  Sunday  dinner? 
Well,  there  was  a  genuine  Italian  dish  called  "Cervello  d'oro,  "* 
which  is  calves'  brains  made  up  in  little  yellow  balls  and  fried  in 
oil;  this,  with  chops,  potatoes,  peas,  rolls  and  a  fruit  salad,  cost 
just  forty  cents  apiec(>  in  our  mone}'.  Not  bad,  was  it?  The  water 
seems  to  be  healthful,  though  it  tastes  a  little  of  lime,  and  we  drink 
it  in  preference  to  the  native  wines,    which  are  generally  used. 

The  church  of  St.  John  Lateran,  the  princijial  one  in  Rome 
after  the  time  of  Constantine  the  Great,  and  before  the  prominence 
of  St.  Peter's,  belongs,  with  the  Vatican,  to  the  Pope.  A  most 
enchanting  spot  is  the  cloister  of  the  old  Benedictine  monastery 
connected  with  the  cluurli.      The  court  is  filled  with  beautiful  flow- 

*  Brains  of  gold. 


ROME  193 

ers  and  in  the  center  is  a  sculptured  well-curb,  which  the  sacristan 
affirms  was  the  one  on  which  the  Saviour  sat  while  talking  with  the 
woman  of  Samaria.  Slender  columns  of  marble  beautifully  veined 
form  the  colonnade  surrounding  the  court;  some  of  them  show  what 
used  to  be  called  Cosmato*  work,  the  flutings  of  the  columns  being 
filled  with  mosaic  patterns  of  richly  stained  glass  and  minute  pieces 
of  precious  marbles  and  minerals. 

The  Lateran  Palace  was  the  usual  residence  for  those  occupy- 
ing the  papal  throne,  before  the  seat  of  the  pontifical  government 
was  removed  to  Avignon,  France,  in  1309.  After  Gregor}'  XL 
returned  to  Italy  in  1377,  the  Pope  made  the  Vatican  his  head- 
quarters. Pope  Gregory  XVI.  in  1843  set  aside  the  Lateran  Palace 
for  a  museum  of  antiquities. 

The  must  magnificent  palace  that  we  have  yet  seen  is  that  of 
the  ancient  family  of  the  Colonna,  a  name  derived  from  the  same 
Latin  word  as  our  column.  It  has  been  degraded  by  some  un- 
worth}-  descendants,  one  of  whom  not  long  ago  married  a  wealthy 
American  girl,  and  treated  her  so  badlv  that  she  was  obliged  to 
sue  for  a  divorce.  When  you  remember  that  Pope  Martin  V.  began 
this  palace  in  141 7,  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  temple  of  Apollo,  and 
that  in  1620  it  was  rebuilt  and  transformed  into  a  stronghold,  you 
will  not  wonder  at  the  pride  which  the  Romans  feel  in  the  noble 
structure.  The  design  of  the  column  is  everywhere  introduced. 
In  the  center  is  a  great  circular  court;  large  windows  admit  plenty 
of  light  to  the  spacious  halls  with  their  costly  inlaid  floors.  A 
passage  supported  by  arches  spanning  the  street  connects  the  second 
floor  with  a  garden,  where  roses  and  azalias  run  riot. 

Imbedded  in  one  of  the  steps  leading  from  the  lower  part  of 
the  Grand  Gallery  to  the  upper  there  is  a  cannon  ball,  a  relic  of 
the  bombardment  of  1849.  Upon  the  ceiling  a  fresco  of  the  "  Battle 
of  Lepanto "  shows  the  hero  Marcantonio  Colonna,  who  distin- 
guished himself  in  the  conflict.  The  walls  are  faced  with  mirrors 
decorated  with  genii  and  exquisite  garlands  of  flowers,  while,  upon 
the  elaborately  gilded  woodwork,  figures   are  carved    in  high  relief. 

There    is  a    portrait    of  Vittoria  Colonna    in  the    palace.      She 

*  A  name  derived  from  two  members  of  a  familv  privileged  to  make  it. 


MOSES 


JiOMR  195 

was  the  noble  woman  that  Michael  Angelo  so  loved  and  revered. 
We  wonder,  as  we  look  on  the  placid,  uninteresting  face,  what 
qualities  she  could  have  possessed,  to  inspire  such  a  passion  in  the 
breast  of  a  man  who  could  create  so  sublime  a  work  as  the  statue 
of  Moses. 

In  the  room  used  on  the  occasion  of  papal  visits,  a  fine  portrait 
of  the  present  pontiff,  Leo  XIII.,  hangs  over  the  throne  which 
is  turned  to  the  wall,  signifying  that  it  is  intended  for  his  ex- 
clusive use. 

The  Palatine  is  the  hill  whereon  Romulus  and  Remusf  were 
found  by  the  shepherd  Faustulus.  The  ancient  city  of  Roma 
Quadrataf  was  built  here,  and  fragments  of  its  walls  have  been 
discovered.  During  the  Republican  period,  private  dwellings  graced 
its  slopes,  and  later  it  was  the  seat  of  the  emperors.  Augustus 
was  born  here,  and,  after  the  battle  of  Actium,  nearly  covered  the 
hill  with  his  magnificent  palace.  He  was  reigning  at  the  time  of 
the  birth  ot  Christ.  Tiberius  built  an  extensive  mansion  opposite 
to  that  of  his  predecessor,  but  the  extravagant  Nero  found  this 
hill  of  the  kings  altogether  too  small  for  him,  ami  so  built  his 
Golden  House  u]ion  the  b^s(|uilinr,  whence  the  gardens  extended  to 
the  Palatine. 

As  we  mounted  the  hill,  to  the  right  we  found  a  flight  of 
wooden  steps  leading  to  a  grove  of  fine  oaks,  on  the  site  of  the 
Palace  of  Tiberius,  beyond  which  are  the  remains  of  the  house  of 
Livia.  She  was  a  Roman  lady  who  divorced  her  first  husband, 
the  father  of  Tiberius,  in  order  to  marry  Augustus.  The  walls 
are  decorated  with  garlands  of  fiowers  and  fruit  still  in  good  con- 
dition. 

The  most  interesting  part  of  the  ruins  is  the  palace  of  the 
Flavian  emperors.  The  tablininn  used  as  a  throne-room  is  39  by 
49  yds.  in  dimensions,  and  contains,  besides  the  alcove  where  the 
throne  stood,  six  side  niches  with  huge  pedestals,  once  supporting 
statues.  Beyond  is  the  peristyle,  a  large  garden,  once  surrounded 
by  a  colonnade;  upon  this  opened  the  triclinium,  where .jhe  diners 
reclined  on  couches  running   around  a  table,   often  arranged  in  the 

*  Reputed  founders  of  Rome. 
I  Square  Rome. 


196 


ROME 


form  of  a  hollow  square,  minus  one  side;  here  we  could  see  a  large 
part  of  the  porphyry  pavement.  Brick  stamps  bearing  the  name 
of  Theodoric  have  been  found  here,  and  this  reminds  me  that  in 
many  of  the  ancient  houses,  pieces  of  terra  cotta  and  tiles  formerly 
used  in  pavements  bear  stamps  and  trade-marks  which  plainly 
show  that  some 
one  had  a  mo- 
nopoly in  the  bus- 
iness. 

It  seems  that 
wealthy  Romans 
gave  their  slaves 
some  education, 
for  at  the  edge  of 
the  hill  is  the 
Pjedagogium,  or 
schoolhouse,  built 
especially  for 
those  of  the  im- 
perial household. 
On  the  walls  are 
sketches  made  by 
the  stylus,  which, 
though  they  are 
indistinct,  still 
prove  that  "boys 
will  be  boys. " 

Fro  m  t  h  e 
Palatine  we  drove 
up  the  Janiculum 
I  till  to  the  eques- 
trian  statue  ot 
Garibaldi,  a  co- 
lossal affair  in  bronze,  and  then  through  the  grounds  of  the  Villa 
Doria  Pamphilj,  the  most  extensive  in  Rome,  to  the  Forum  of 
Trajan.  Imagine  a  column  of  pure  marble  87  ft.  high;  place  it  on 
a  pedestal  and  crown  it  by  a  statue,  making  the  total  height  147  ft. ; 


FORUM    OF    TRAJAN 


ROME 


197 


conceive  2,500  human  figures  and  half  as  many  animals  carved 
upon  It,  and  you  will  have  something  of  an  idea  how  that  wonder 
of  wonders,  the  Column  of  Trajan,  appears.  It  was  erected  to 
commemorate  Trajan's  victory  over  the  Dacians.  The  l)od_\-  of  the 
emperor  was  interred  beneath  the  base. 

An  important  feature  of   Roman  life  was  the  bath,    and   prob- 
ably the  most  magnificent  baths  ever  constructed  were  those   built 


THE    GATE    OF    SAN    SEBASTIANO 


by  the  Emperor  Caracalla.  They  accommodated  1,600  bathers  at 
one  time.  From  the  ruins  one  can  obtain  only  a  faint  conception 
of  what  they  once  were.  The  bather  first  visited  the  fcpidariiivi, 
a  vapor  bath  similar  to  the  Russian  bath.  Here  he  remained  for 
a  short  time;  then,  entered  the  caldariitiu  or  hot  water  bath,  where 
he  was  rubbed  by  slaves;  he  then  finished  by  a  cold  plunge  in  the 
frigidarium.  A  gymnasium,  library  and  art  gallery  were  adjuncts 
of  these  baths,  which  were  the  rendezvous  of  fashionable  Romans, 
who  often  transacted  important  business  while  enjoying  their  daily 
anointing.  The  Farnese  Hercules  and  Bull  that  we  saw  in  the 
museum  at  Naples  were  both  found  in  these  baths. 


igS 


ROME 


The  Appian  Way,  the  famous  mihtary  road  begun  by  Appius 
Claudius  Caecus  in  312  B.  C. ,  ultimately  connected  Rome  and  Brin- 
disi.  Constructed  of  square  stones  fitted  together  and  laid  upon  a 
st)lid  foundation,  it  was  flanked  by  tombs.  How  many  triumphal 
jirocessions  have  moved  along  this  histt)ric  way !  How  many  weary 
prisoners  have  dragged  their  fettered  limbs  over  this  road!  Only 
the  stones  could  tell,  and  they  are  voiceless;  but,  in  fancy,  we  see 
the  captives,  among  whom  St.  Paul  is  perhaps  the  best  known  to  us. 

On  one  of  our  drives,  we  passed  under  the  old  gate  of  San 
Sebastiano  nncl    followed   the    Appian  Way    for    some  distance    be- 


APPIAN    WAY    AND    RUINS    OF   AQUEDUCT 

tween  the  high  walls  of  vineyards.  At  last  we  obtained  a  sight 
of  the  Campagna,  and  the  arches  of  the  Claudian  aqueduct  which 
brought  water  to  Ivome  from  the  neighborhood  of  Subiaco,  forty- 
two   miles  away. 

Abiiut  a  mile  and  a  quarter  from  the  gate  are  the  Catacombs 
of  St.  Calixtus,  dating  from  the  4th  century.  Leaving  the  carriage, 
we  walked  up  a  slope  into  an  old  garden,  where  a  small  brick 
cottage  serves  as  a  kind  of  office  for  the  Trappist  monks  who  have 
charge  of  the  catacombs.  There,  one  pays  a  lira  and  receives  a 
candle.      Our  guide,   a  German   monk,    speaking    English   perfectly, 


ROME  199 

as  well  as  French,  Latin  and  Greek,  was  the  jolliest  old  •  ellow 
imaginable.  In  company  with  several  other  tourists  we  entered  a 
low  hut  and  started  down  a  staircase,  into  the  blackness  of  the 
earth  below.  The  monk  looked  back  over  his  shoulder  and  with 
a  merry  twinkle  in  his  eyes  asked  if  we  were  afraid.  Although 
our  knees  felt  rather  shak3^  we  assured  him  that  we  were  as  "brave 
as  lions,  "  and,  with  a  chuckle,  he  led  us  down,  down,  into  a  laby- 
rinth of  subterranean  passages,  from  which  we  wondered  if  we 
should  ever  emerge.  Our  tapers  were  like  glow-worms  in  the  dark- 
ness; now  and  then  we  could  hear  voices  and  then  suddenly  would 
come  upon  another  party,  their  faces  appearing  ghastly  in  the 
weird  light.  History  tells  us  that  these  Christian,  underground 
burial  places  were  first  known  to  exist  in  the  2nd  centur}-,  and  that 
the  custom  of  thus  disposing  of  the  dead  was  abandoned  in  the 
5th  century.  The  walls  of  the  passages  were  hollowed  out  to  form 
shelves,  where  the  bodies  were  laid  in  rows,  arranged  like  berths 
in  a  ship.  When  all  the  shelves  in  a  passage  were  filled,  it  was 
excavated  to  twice  its  original  depth,  and  another  row  of  tombs 
was  placed  below  the  first,  and  so  on,  until  there  were  several 
tiers.  These  grewsome  galleries  were  crossed  by  others  and  con- 
nected by  steps  cut  in  the  rock.  Vast  areas  were  thus  undermined. 
The  lowest  estimate  of  the  length  ot  the  passages  in  the  forty 
catacombs  is  350  miles. 

We  visited  three  tiers,  as  well  as  the  chapels  frequented  by 
the  persecuted  Christians,  where,  with  their  dead  beside  them, 
they  held  the  religious  services  which  they  dared  not  conduct  above 
ground.  In  the  wall  beside  some  of  the  tombs,  glass  vials  are 
stuck  in  the  cement;  these,  the  monk  informed  us,  once  held  blood, 
showing  that  the  occupant  had  died  a  martyr's  death.  W^e  all 
know  that  the  old  Roman  laws  compelled  the  restoration  of  bodies, 
not  devoured  bv  wild  beasts,  or  burned,  to  the  friends  of  the  de- 
parted; thus  the  remains  of  our  Saviour  were  given  up  by  Pilate 
to  Joseph  of  Arimathsea.  Many  of  the  chapels  of  the  wealthier 
class  show  traces  of  frescoes,  marble  pillars  and  cornices.  As  we 
went  along,  the  guide  explained  the  symbols  carved  on  the  tombs; 
for  instance:  the  fish  symbolizes  Christ;  the  palm  branch,  eternal 
life;  the  dove,  immortahty.  Roman  lamps,  half  buried  in  the 
mortar,  were  formerly  used  for  lighting  the  galleries. 


ROME 


The  empt}-  tomb  of  St.  Cecilia  was  hung  with  wreaths  brought 
by  several  young  girls,  who  had  received  their  first  communion  in 
front  of  it,  the  day  before.  The  saint's  body  was  removed  in  1821 
to  the  church  erected  in  her  honor,  where,  beneath  the  high  altar, 
is  her  marble  statue  b\'  Maderna.  Slie  is  represented  lying  upon 
her  side,  with  her  knees  drawn  up,  as  her  body  was  found  in  th"t 
position  in  the  catacombs.  Legend  relates  that  she  was  a  Roman 
lady  of  high  birth  and  wealth,  who  in  her  youth  became  a  Christian, 

and  took  a  vow  of  perpetual 
virginity.  Although  compelled 
by  her  parents  to  marry  a  pagan 
by  the  name  of  Valerian,  she  did 
not  break  her  vow  of  chastity. 
Her  husband,  with  a  number  cf 
others,  was  converted  by  her, 
and  all  were  martyred  on  ac- 
count t)f  their  belief.  It  is  said 
that  Cecilia  sang  the  praises  of 
the  Lord  to  the  accompaniment 
of  musical  instruments  and, 
ever  since,  has  been  patroness 
of  Music. 

\Vc  were  amused  by  the 
dry  wit  of  the  old  monk,  who 
tried  to  keep  up  our  spirits, 
while  showing  us  dismal  ob- 
jects. He  saw  a  party  of 
FRESCO,  ST.  CECILIA  Frenchmcn    in    a    gallery  'that 

we  had  not  inspected,  and,  with  a  comical  glance,  started  in  their 
direction,  saying: — "Let  us  go  and  drive  out  the  French."  When 
we  recollected  that  he  was  a  German,  the  humor  of  the  remark 
struck  us  with  the  greater  force. 

In  strong  contrast  to  the  gloom  of  the  catacombs  is  the 
sequestered  Protestant  cemetery,  where  many  noted  men  sleep,  and 
the  heart  of  the  English  poet,  Shelley,  is  buried;  his  body  was 
cremated  on  the  shores  of  the  Bay  of  Spezia.  In  the  adjoining 
burying  ground  lies  John  Keats,  whose  grave  is  hidden  by  ivy  and 


202 


ROME 


purple  violets.  This  writer  of  sweet  thoughts  died  in  one  of  tlie 
houses  beside  the  great  Scala  or  flight  of  steps  which  is  one  of  the 
sights  of  Rome,  and  leads  from  the  Piazza  di  Spagna  to  the  Spanish 
Embassy,  above. 

Yesterday  morning  found  us  at  the  Pantheon,  a  circular  build- 
ing founded  by  Agrippa,  son-in-law  of  Augustus,  in  27  B.  C.  It  is 
the  only  ancient  edifice  in  Rome  with  walls  and  roof  intact.  The 
original  pavement  is  six  feet  below  the  present  one,  which  was 
restored  by  Hadrian;    the  brick  walls,  20  ft.  thick,  were  once  faced 


PROTESTANT  CEMETERY,   ROME 

with  marble  and  stucco.  Passing  through  a  lofty  jxntico,  we  entered 
a  circular  room  lighted  entirely  from  an  aperture  in  the  apex  of 
the  tremendous  dome  (140  ft.  in  height  and  diameter),  formerly 
covered  with  bronze.  We  wondered  what  protected  the  fine  pave- 
ment inlaid  in  parti-colored  marbles,  when  rain  tell.  Investigation 
showed  that  under  the  aperture  the  pavement  was  pierced  with 
holes,  and  thus  the  water  is  carried  off  into  the  cisterns  below,  for 
the  Pantheon,  now  a  church,  originally  formed  part  of  the  baths 
of  Agrippa.  In  609  A.  D.,  the  building  was  consecrated  to  the 
Virgin. 


ROME 


20'! 


Among  the  tombs  on  the  left  o{  the  liigh  altar  is  that  of 
Rai)hael;  to  the  right,  that  of  Vittorio  Emanuele  II.,  the  "Father 
of    his  country." 

The  American  consul  had  secured  us  admission  for  to-day  to 
the  Camera  dei  Deputati,*  where  Parliament  is  now  in  session. 
We  found  it  an  unpretentious  assembly  room  arranged  in  amphi- 
theater form,  and  decorated  in  a  quiet  dark  blue.  Small  writing 
desks  are  attached  to  the  backs  of  the  members'  seats,  which  rise  in 


THE    PANTHEON,   ROME 


tiers  from  the  platform.  The  Ko)-alists,  dubbed  the  "Extreme 
Right,"  occupy  the  right  of  the  chamber;  the  Socialists,  the  "Ex- 
treme Left,"  sit  upon  the  left,  while  in  the  space  between  them  are 
those  less  pronounced  in  their  views.  We  counted  528  chairs  on 
the  floor,  the  members'  part  of  the  house.  A  wide  gallery  for  visitors 
runs  around  three  sides  of  the  chamber.  The  members  wore  busi- 
ness suits,   and  were  quite  as  informal  in  their    proceedings  as  our 


Cliamber  of  Deputies. 


ROME  205 

own  senators,  which  is  saying  considerable.  Down  in  front  of  the 
rostrum  is  a  wide  raihng,  before  which  each  member  passes  to  vote, 
dropping  a  white  or  blaclv  ball  into  a  hollow  pillar  with  curved  open 
top.  President  ^'illa  opened  the  session  by  ringing  a  silver  bell; 
then  the  clerk  called  the  roll,  which  took  just  three-quarters  of  an 
hour;  in  the  meantime,  a  vote  was  taken  on  the  question  before 
the  house  concerning  the  appropriation  of  more  money  for  the  war 
in  Abyssinia.  We  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  the  Marquis  di  Ru- 
dini,  Prime  Minister,  and  several  other  notabilities. 

Probably  no  picture  is  better  known  in  America  through  copies 
than  the  "Aurora,"  by  Guido  Reni,  a  fresco  on  the  ceiling  of  a  casino 
connected  with  the  Rospigliosi  palace.  The  room,  when  we  entered, 
was  filled  with  the  easels  of  artists  who  were  copying  this  popular 
subject.  But  no  one  has  ever  done  justice  to  the  lithe  forms  of  the 
maidens  representing  the  Hours,  who  circle  about  the  flying  chariot 
of  the  Sun  god;  nor,  to  the  graceful,  sweeping  draperies  of  Aurora, 
as  she  floats  on  clouds  in  advance  of  the  pursuing  Apollo,  whose 
eolden  hair  seems  the  sun  itself,    so  refulgent  is  it  witli  color. 

We  were  invited  to  five  o'clock  tea  at  the  Villino  Aurora  this 
afternoon,  and,  on  our  way,  called  at  the  studio  of  tlie  American 
.sculptor,  Franklin  Simmonds,  who,  tor  many  jears,  has  lived  in 
Rome.  Although  past  middle  lite,  he  is  as  active  as  ever  and  is 
now  modelling  an  ecpiestrian  statue  of  General  Logan.  The  studio 
was  filled  with  examples  of  his  skill,  and  we  went  away,  not  only 
charmed  by  the  cordiality  of  the  man,  but  enthusiastic  over  his 
creations.  Penelope,*  a  beautiful  female  figure  in  a  sitting  posture, 
with  a  look  of  waiting  in  her  eyes,  is  simph"  perfect  in  delicacy 
of   finish. 

We  sipped  our  tea  under  the  branches  of  a  mammoth  ilex  tree, 
in  the  midst  of  rose  bushes  heavy  with  bloom,  from  palest  pink  to 
deepest  red.  Mrs.  MacNeil,  in  her  Empire  gown,  with  a  \-ellow 
rose  tucked  in  her  brown  hair,  looked  bewitching  as  she  sat  behind 
the  dainty  blue  and  gold  cups. 

For  the  past  half  hour,  I  have  been  leaning  out  of  my  window 
in  true    Italian    fashion,   listening    to  a  street    band.     A   couple  of 

*  Wife  of  Ulvsses. 


ROME  267 

flower  girls,  in  their  short  skirts,  velvet  bodices,  full  waists,  guimpes 
and  flat  headdresses,  were  standing  on  the  corner,  with  l^askets  of 
roses  on  their  heads.  One  of  them,  who  had  cvidentlv  a  weak- 
ness for  flirtation,  offered  a  cabman,  stationed  near  b}',  a  rose. 
This  excited  the  playful  jealousy  of  several  young  workingmen  in 
a  shop  on  the  corner,  who  came  out  and  teased  her  for  another 
rose.  When  she  refused,  they  pulled  her  sleeves  and  tipped  up 
her  chin,  looking  into  her  face  and,  doubtless,  saying  the  most 
flattering  things.  It  was  of  no  avail;  she  airily  tossed  her  head, 
readjusted  her  basket  and  disappeared.  The  fortunate  possessor  of 
the  rosebud  placed  it  in  his  buttonhole  and  strutted  back  to  his 
throne  on  the  box  of  the  cab.  A  man,  with  milk  in  long-necked 
glass  bottles  almost  covered  with  wickerwork  and  corked  with  a 
crisp  lettuce  leaf,  is  jogging  along  the  street;  and  a  boy,  selling 
little  nutcakes  with  a  dab  of  chocolate  on  top,  is  on  a  neigh- 
boring doorstep. 

The  costumes  of  the  peasants  are  all  picturesque,  though  often 
in  need  of  repairs.  The  girls  wear  bodices  of  velvet  or  cloth  made 
exactly  like  a  corset.  Inside  the  front  steels  a  narrow  board  is 
worn,  to  prevent  them  from  bending.  It  is  the  fashion  for  the 
suitors,  or  male  friends  of  the  young  women,  to  carve  their  names 
and,  if  they  desire,  some  appropriate  device,  such  as  a  heart,  on 
this-  board,  which  is  easily  removed,  being  between  the  bodice  and 
the  full  inside  waist. 

It  is  said  that  even  educated  Italians  are  superstitious.  An 
American  lady,  who  has  moved  in  society  here,  tells  us  that  thev 
are  firm  believers  in  the  Evil  Eye,  and  that  a  Roman  ladv  of 
position  and  wealth  has  been  ostracized  sociallv,  because  misfortune 
or  accident  overtook  some  member  of  several  families,  while  she 
was  visiting  them.  For  that  reason,  she  has  been  accused  of 
having  the  Evil  Eye. 

Rome  is  a  perfect  garden  of  flowers;  they  are  sold  on  nearly 
every  street  corner,  and  venders  walk  about,  laden  with  bouquets 
and  baskets  of  the  richest  blossoms.  Little  children  sell  clusters 
of  poppies,  nearly  as  large  as  themselves,  for  half  a  lira.  Yes- 
terday, when  Mrs.  M.  returned  from  a  shopping  tour,  she  not 
only  brought   some    Roman    scarfs  and    bags  in  gay  stripes,    but  a 


2o8  nOME 

bunch  of  pansies  with  stems  fully  twelve  inches  long.  Several  boys 
had  asked  to  carry  it  for  her,  so  you  can  imagine  the  size.  I 
received  some  unpublished  verses  from  Carolyn  Waldo  Wade  of 
Buffalo,  the  other  day.  They  were  written  on  receipt  of  a  box  of 
Roman    pansies    sent  by  a  friend    here,   and    are    so    dainty  I    am 


ROMAN    TOMB 

sure  )-ou  will  enjov  them;  besides,  they  add  the  finishing  touch  to 
a  letter  from  ' '  Roma. "  How  we  wish  every  one  would  call  the 
foreign  cities  by  their  names,  and  not  anglicize  them.  How  musical 
are  Napoli,  Roma,  Milano,  when  spoken  in  the  solt  Italian  tongue! 
But  it  is  late,    dear  friend,    and   I   must  sa\'  good  night. 

PANSIES    FROM    KOMI-:. 

From  Roma;   boavini;  on  their  loaves 
A  dream  of  soft  Italian  days. 
Of  ancient  gardens,  winding  ways, 
And  peasants  bearing  poppy  sheaves. 

From  Roma;   as  I  touch  the  flowers, 
I  hear  a  chime  of  laughter  sweet, 
And  fauns  and  nymphs,  with  flying  feet, 
Are  dancing  out  the  golden  liours. 

From  Roma;  on  each  petal  lies 
The  purple  splendor  of  old  years; 


ROME 

The  royal  sorrow  of  the  tears 
That  dim  lier  sad  immortal  eyes. 

Fair  Roma;   with  her  marbles  cold, 
Her  fallen  goddesses,  and  gods, 
Her  blossoming,  historic  sods, 
And  strange  traditions,  weird  and  old 

Great  Roma;   throned  eternally 
Upon  her  hills;  imperial,  high. 
Long  miles  from  that  fair  azure  sk\- 
These  blossoms  sweet  smile  no  at  me. 


2og 


■14 


CHAPTER    XVI 

PISA    AND    FLORENCE 

l^R  first  view  of  the  Leaning  Tower  at  Pisa,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Arno,  was  a  complete  surprise,  for  we 
had  not  in  our  most  imaginative  moods  conceived  any- 
thing so  airy  and  fragile  as  it  seems  to  be,  when 
viewed  from  a  distance.  As  one  approaches,  however, 
the  structure  changes  from  a  castle  of  carved  ivory  to  one 
of  marble,  and,  despite  the  fact  that  it  leans  to  one  side 
thirteen  feet  out  of  the  perpendicular,  it  looks  substantial  enough  to 
treble  the  722  years  of  its  existence.  Many  theories  have  been 
advanced  as  to  the  cause  of  this  peculiarity.  Now,  it  is  generally 
believed  that  one  side  sunk  during  the  two  centuries  which  elapsed 
between  the  laying  of  its  foundation  and  its  completion.  It  is  said 
that  the  upper  stories,  of  the  eight  which  compose  it,  were  added 
in  a  curved  line  in  order  to  balance  the  whole.  This  Campanile,* 
the  magnificent  cathedral,  Campo  Santof  and  Baptistery  form  a 
remarkable  group  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city. 

The  Baptistery  contains  the  most  famous  pulpit  in  the  world, 
the  work  of  Niccolo  Pisano.;};  It  is  of  marble  exquisitely  carved, 
and  upheld  by  columns  which  rest  on  the  backs  of  lions. 

Pisa,  now  six  miles  from  the  sea,  was  once  one  of  the  most 
important  ports  in  Italv,  but,  for  centuries,  the  rain  falling  upon 
the  barren  hill  slopes  and  mixing  with  the  clay  has  formed  a  fluid 
paste  that  has  silted  up  the  harbor.  This  disaster  might  have  been 
averted,  if  the  Pisans  had  not  lost  strength  through  protracted 
struggles  with  rival  cities.  At  present,  it  is  a  quiet  town  with  fine 
quays  on    both    banks  of    the    river,  and  boasts  a  University  men- 


*  Bell  tower, 
f  Burial  ground. 

J  Nicholas  of  Pisa,  an  artist  of  the  13th  century. 

21 1 


212  PISA  AND  FLORENCE 

tioned  as  early  as  the  12th  century,  where  Gahleo,  the  celebrated 
philosopher   and    astronomer,    was  educated    and  afterward  taught. 

With  Galileo  "the  science  of  motion  began  to  exist."  He  did 
not  inwnt  the  telescope,  but  the  report  of  its  invention  by  the 
Greek  scholar,  Deniiscianus,  set  him  to  work  to  imitate  it;  the 
^result,  after  several  minor  attemj'jts,  was  an  instrument  of  thirty- 
two  magnifying  power  which  was  used  all  over  Europe.  Galileo 
made  his  first  experiments  in  gravitation  at  the  top  of  the  Leaning 
Tower  and  there  proved  to  the  students  of  the  university  that  a 
heavy  body  does  not  always  fall  with  a  velocity  in  proportion  to 
its  weight.  After  living  seventy  years  in  prosperity  and  receiving 
the  highest  honors,  he  incurred  the  displeasure  of  the  Church,  and 
as  a  result  retired  from  public  life.      He  died  at  Florence  in    1642. 

Our  route  from  Pisa  skirted  the  smiling  valley  of  the  Arno 
,  rich  with  farms  and  gardens,  and  led  us  to  beautiful  Florence,  the 
Queen  of  Tuscany.  Her  fair  head  is  crowned  by  a  diadem  of 
glorious  workmanship,  set  with  priceless  gems  of  poetry  and  art, 
and  the  secrets  of  a  line  of  men  whose  patronage  could  raise  the 
humblest  to  affluence  and  power  are  locked  within  her  breast. 

It  was  a  thrilling  moment  when  we  first  stood  on  the  Piazza 
della  Signoria,  *  a  splendid  square  in  the  heart  of  the  city.  Upon 
one  side  is  the  Palazzo  Vccchio,  the  old  palace  which  was  the 
seat  of  government,  and,  subsequentiv,  the  residence  of  the  Aledici. 

Close  b)',  is  the  Uffizi,  once  a  citv  hall,  now  containing  one 
of  the  most  celebrated  art  galleries  in  the  world.  It  forms  three 
sides  of  a  rectangle  and  porticoes  adorned  with  statues  of  great 
Tuscans  face  the  central  court.  At  the  end  overlooking  the  river, 
the  upper  stories  rest  upon  arches  through  which  an  enchanting 
vista  of  the  mountains  is  obtained. 

Across  one  end  of  the  Uflizi,  facing  the  jiiazza  is  an  open 
vaulted  hall  called  the  Loggia  dei  Lanzi  since  the  time  of  the 
Grand  Duke  Cosimo  I.,  who  posted  his  German  lancers  here.  The 
aristocracv  sat  in  this  loggia  during  state  ceremonies  and  the  people 
assembled  in  the  square.  It  is  now  a  sculpture  gallery  and  con- 
tains  several    noted    groups,   among    them    the  ' '  Perseus    with    the 


*  The  square  of  the  government. 


LEANING    TOWER,    PISA 


214.  PISA  AND  FLORENCE 

head    of    Medusa,"  by    Benvenuto    Cellini,   who    was    not    only    a 
sculptor,  but  the  greatest  goldsmith  that  has  ever  lived. 

The  Piazza  della  Signoria  has  always  been  the  forum  of  Flor- 
ence, the  meeting-place  of  the  people,  where  Aristocracy  hob- 
nobbed with  Genius  and  Art  walked  arm  in  arm  with  Literature. 
Its  pavement  has  echoed  to  the  tread  of  the  immortal  Dante, 
whose  name  is  written  across  the  pages  of  Italy's  history,  in  letters  of 
fire.  Here,  in  the  early  evening,  he  loved  to  greet  his  friend  Giotto, 
once  a  shepherd  lad,  who  by  the  force  of  his  talents  became  one 
of  the  greatest  architects  and  painters  of  his  time.  It  was  here 
that  Michael  Angelo,  Leonardo  da  Vinci  and  their  friends  chatted 
over  the  latest  news  from  Rome,  and,  here,  Savonarola,  the  Domin- 
ican  monk,  was  burned  at  the  stake. 

Girolamo  Savonarola,  born  at  Ferrara  in  1452,  accepted  a 
mission  to  preach  in  the  Convent  of  San  Marco  in  Florence,  when 
the  power  of  Lorenzo  de'  Medici,  surnamed  the  Magnificent,  was 
at  its  zenith.  This  monk  of  simple  and  devout  habits  was  horri- 
fied at  the  wanton  luxury,  immorality  and  spiritual  tor}X)r  of  the 
Florentines,  whom  at  that  time  he  tried  in  vain  to  convert.  Nine 
years  later  he  preached  his  first  sermon  in  the  cathedral,  which, 
vast  as  it  was,  often  failed  to  accommodate  the  numbers  who  flocked 
to  hear  his  prophetic  words.  Gne  of  his  most  striking  prophecies 
related  to  the  di-ath  of  Lorenzo,  who,  when  dying,  sent  for  the 
great  preacher  to  absolve  hmi  from  his  sins.  Savonarola  consented 
to  do  this,  if  Lorenzo  would  liberate  Florence  from  the  power  of 
the  Medici;  upon  his  refusal,  the  priest  left  his  bedside,  and  the 
ruler  died   unshriven. 

Savonarola's  influence  became  so  great  that  after  a  revolution, 
when  the  city  was  left  without  a  government,  he  became  the  law- 
giver. A  new  republic  was  established;  all  Florence  was  purified 
for  the  nonce  by  the  influence  of  this  ruler  without  a  title.  A 
garden  of  pleasure  was  changed  to  a  monastery.  The  people, 
awakened  by  the  fiery  denunciations  of  the  preacher,  ceased  their 
revels,  burned  their  fine  garments,  their  ornaments,  and  entered 
upon  a  life  of  the  strictest  piety  and  abstinence.  Nevertheless,  like 
all  sudden  reforms,  this  was  only  on  the  surface,  for  such  severe 
discipline    soon    became    irksome.       The    Pope    became  jealous   of 


PIS. I  AND  FLORENCE  215 

Savonarola  and,  terrified  by  the  effect  of  his  sermons  on  the  people, 
began  to  plot  against  him.  The  prophet  was  invited  to  Rome,  and 
the  rank  of  cardinal  was  offered  him.  He  refused  it  with  scorn 
and,  thereafter,  paid  no  heed  to  the  summons  of  the  Pope.  As  a 
result  of  his  independence,  he  was  excommunicated  in  1497,  but 
refused  to  accept  the  decree,  maintaining  that  Alexander  was  not 
a  true  pope,  and  maintaining  that  his  mission  was  a  divine  one. 
But  the  shadow  of  a  tragic  fate  was  already  impending.  In  April, 
1498,  Savonarola  and  two  of  his  followers  were  arrested,  tried  by 
malicious  judges,  and  imprisoned  for  forty  days,  the  great  preacher 
in  a  cell  in  the  lofty  tower  of  the  Palazzo  Vecchio.  The  prisoners 
were  subjected  to  the  most  awful  tortures  and  though,  while  in 
agony,  Savonarola  promised  to  recant,  as  soon  as  he  was  unbound, 
calling  upon  God  to  forgive  him  for  his  weakness,  he  would  repeat 
his  former  statements.  Upon  the  morning  of  May  23rd,  1498, 
the  three  monks  were  hung  from  a  cross  erected  on  the  piazza; 
the  torch  was  applied  to  the  fagots  beneath,  and  the  martyrs  were 
consumed  in  the  flames.  It  was  a  black  day  for  Florence,  the 
blot  upon  whose  escutcheon  can  never  be  effaced. 

In  Savonarola's  cell  at  the  monastery  of  San  Marco,  we  saw 
the  vestments  he  had  worn,  the  rosary  he  had  carried,  while  from 
the  wall  looked  down  the  stern,  splendid  face,  as  painted  by  Fra 
Bartolommeo.* 

We  visited  the  Palazzo  Vecchio  whence  Savonarola  was  taken 
to  his  death.  Crossing  a  spacious  court  around  which  were  the 
armorial  bearings  of  different  tactions  that  have  ruled  Florence,  we 
mounted  the  grand  staircase  and  entered  the  Hall  of  the  Five 
Hundred,  where  the  Great  Council  and  Upper  Council  of  the  city 
sat,  in  turn.  At  one  end  are  statues  of  the  Medici;  at  the  other, 
as  if  by  the  irony  of  fate,    a  colossal  figure  of  Savonarola. 

The  Duomo,  as  the  cathedral  of  Florence  is  usually  called, 
was  begun  in  1294,  and  finished,  aside  from  the  facade,  in  1462. 
It  is  of  glistening  white  miarble,  banded  with  vcrdc  antico.-\  The 
beautiful  bell  tower,  designed  by  Giotto,  which  stands  beside  it,  is 
so  lofty  that  it  might  well  be  the  ladder  of  Jacob's  dream.      Ruskiii 

*  A  monk  at  San  Marco,  1469-1517. 

■j"  Antique  green  marble. 


PALAZZO    VECCHIO    AND    UFFIZI    GALLERY,    FLOKL;vk.E 


p  ■■ '   -  ■■^a^aga.i.i&g/jgaa: 


2l8 


PISA  AND  FLORENCE 


declares  that  "the  characteristics  of  power  and  l^eauty  exist  in  their 
highest  relative  degrees  in  the  Campanile  of  Giotto."  Faced  with 
marble  like  the  cathedral,  its  charm  is  enhanced  by  rich  reliefs  and 
priceless  statues. 

Opposite  to    the    Duomo  is   the    Baptistery,    where  all   Roman 


SAVONAROLA 


Catholic  children  born  m  Florence  are  baptized.  This  structure  is 
noted  for  its  bronze  doors,  the  work  of  Andrea  Pisano  and  Lorenzo 
Ghiberti.  These  men  combined  in  their  masterpieces  the  breadth 
of  the  sculptor  and  the  delicacy  and  finish  of  the  goldsmith.  The 
tiny  figures  that  appear  in  the  designs  are  models  of  technique. 
A  door  by  Ghiberti  represents  ten  scenes  from  the  Old  Testament, 
each    treated    with  such  clear    understanding    of    the    incident,   and 


CATHEDRAL    AND    GIOTTO'S    TOWER,    FLORENCE 


220 


PIRA  AND  FLORENCE 


with  such  insii^ht  into  the  character  of  the  personages,  as  to  make 
the  artist  a  true  preacher.  No  oratory  can  affect  mankind  as  such 
sermons  in  stone  and  bronze,    for  they  are  a  constant  incentive  to 


DETAIL    OF    BRONZE    DOOR,    BY  GHIBERTI 

the  people,  who  are  as  famihar  with  their  outhnes  as  with  the 
faces  of  their  children. 

It  would  be  absurd  for  any  one  to  attempt  to  see  all  the 
treasures  of  the  Uffizi  gallery  in  one  day,  so  we  noted  in  the 
catalogue  the  principal  works  of  art  and  spent  several  happy 
hours  in  studying  them. 

The  most  celebrated  and  valuable  jiictures  are  hung  in  the 
Tribuna,  an  octagonal  room,  where  is  also  the  "Venus  de'  Medici," 


VENUS    DE'    MEDiCI 


222  PISA  AND  FLORENCE 

rivalled  only  by  the  "Venus  de  Milo"*  in  Paris.  I  was  disappointed 
in  this  statue;  the  face  seemed  too  narrow,  and  the  pose,  affected. 
However,  the  group  of  the  Wrestlers  was  superb,  the  play  of  the 
muscles  being  wonderfully  brought  out. 

A  little  genre  f  picture  by  Gerard  Don,  the  Dutch  master, 
merits  description.  It  is  called  the  "Pancake  Seller,"  and  shows 
the  exterior  of  a  Dutch  cottage;  here  an  old  woman  is  seated,  the 
jar  of  batter  by  her  side  and  the  griddle  in  front.  Some  school 
girls  have  been  beguiled  into  buving  the  crisp  cakes,  and  one  is 
already  testing  them.  Her  look  of  bliss  mingled  with  questioning 
is  comical,  as  she  glances  at  the  unobservant  sister,  who  is  paying 
for  the  treat.  The  watery  eyes,  the  wrinkled  skin  of  the  old 
woman,  even  the  broken  teeth  in  her  jaws  can  be  seen,  and  yet 
the  whole  head  is  not  more  than  an  inch  in  diameter. 

Don,  it  is  said,  never  allowed  a  window  to  be  opened  in  the 
room  where  he  painted,  so  fearful  was  he  lest  a  particle  of  dust 
should  lodge  on  his  work.  His  stroke  was  extremely  delicate,  and 
some  of  his  brushes  contained  but  a  single  hair. 

It  is  astonishing  how  manv  artists  live  b}'  copying  the  works 
of  the  old  masters;  they  often  block  the  way  and  make  it  difficult 
for  visitors  to  get  a  good  view  of  the  pictures.  Men  and  women 
thoroughly  trained  in  the  technique  of  art  frequently  discover,  in 
the  course  of  time,  that  they  are  devoid  of  creative  power  and, 
therefore,  are  obliged  to  reproduce  famous  paintings.  It  is,  some- 
times, no  easy  matter  to  obtain  permission  to  do  so,  as  there  are 
so  many  applicants  that  places  are  engaged  years  ahead,  at  great 
expense.  Mrs.  M.  bought  a  fine  copy  of  one  of  the  groups  in  the 
Coronation  of  the  Virgin  by  Fra  Angelico,  once  a  monk  of  San 
Marco.  His  work  is  known  by  the  delicate  poetry  in  the  comjiosi- 
tion,  and  by  the  exquisite  coloring  which  attracts  the  attention  of 
the  most  indifierent  observer. 

Yesterday  was  Ascension  Day,  one  of  the  jirincipal  church 
festivals,  celebrated  here  with  a  Carnival  of  Flowers.  Ascension 
Day  is  also  called  by  the  Florentines  Giorno  dei  Grilli,  because  of 
a  pagan  custom,  which  still  holds  good,  of  doing  honor,  so  to  speak, 

*  Melos,  an  island  in  the  ^Egean  Sea. 
f  Home  scene. 


THE    SINGING    CHILDREN 


224  P^S^^  ^^^'^  FLORENCE    ' 

to  the  grillo  or  cricket.  As  this  is  one  of  the  most  prolific  of  in- 
sects, it  was  selected  in  ancient  times  to  represent  the  reproduction 
of  nature,  the  general  awakening  in  the  sprmgtime.  Therefore, 
on  this  day,  boys  walk  about  the  streets  of  Florence,  selling  little 
wicker  cages  with  live  crickets  feeding  on  fresh  green  lea\es. 

Armed  with  crickets,  and  roses,  which  are  sold  for  five  cents  a 
dozen,  we  proceeded  to  the  Cascine  *  where  the  parade  was  to 
take  place.  A  grand  stand  had  been  erected  on  two  sides  of  the 
sijuare,  and  the  charge  for  a  good  seat  was  only  three  lire.  Every 
Florentine  who  was  not  in  the  procession  was  a  spectator.  The 
mamma  with  her  pretty  daughters  in  their  most  bewitching  cos- 
tumes and  the  nurse  with  head-dress  of  bright  blue  or  red  satin 
ribbon,  the  ends  trailing  to  the  hem  of  her  gown,  were  the  most 
conspicuous.  As  the  women  of  the  aristocrac}'  do  not  nurse  their 
children,  but  select  young  and  healthy  mothers  from  the  mountain 
districts,  these  nurses  are  important  persons.  The  children  running 
about  made  us  think  of  the  "Singing  Boys"  sculptured  by  Luca 
della  Robbia,  which  form  part  of  a  relief  now  m  the  National 
Museum. 

At  the  time  appointed  for  the  procession  to  move,  the  square 
was  thronged,  and  a  squad  of  cavalry  attempted  to  clear  the  way. 
It  was  amusing  to  see  their  maneuvers.  The  commanding  officer 
dashed  hither  and  thither,  brandishing  his  sword  and  shouting,  but 
to  no  purpose;  as  soon  as  one  spot  was  cleared,  another  would  be 
crowded,  and  the  people  retired  only  when  forced  to  do  so  by  the 
advancing  carriages  which  were  beautifully  decorated  with  flowers. 
One,  completely  covered,  wheels  and  all,  with  marguerites  and  calla 
lilies,  framed  a  slender  Florentine  gowned  in  white  silk  and  carry- 
ing a  white  parasol.  Another,  drawn  by  black  horses  with  white 
harness,  was  a  mass  of  carnations,  roses  and  palms.  A  gigantic 
palm  leaf  attached  to  the  rear  seat  formed  a  background  for  a 
lady  in  white  organdie  and  picture  hat.  The  front  seat,  from  the 
edge  to  thc>  coachman's  box,  was  a  sloping  bank  of  locust  blossoms. 
The  foreign  diplomates  trimmed  their  carriages  with  flowers  in  the 
colors  of  their  countries,  the  American  consul's  being  especially  fine, 


*  Park  named  because  of  a  dairv  once  located  there. 


226  PISA  AND  FLORENCE 

with  red  roses,  white  carnations,  and  blue  bachelor's  buttons.  The 
occupants  looked  as  aristocratic  as  any  of  the  others,  if  they  did 
come  from  a  democratic  country.  However,  all  were  quite  outdone 
in  splendor  by  an  American  bicycle  firm,  whose  Roman  chariot, 
driven  by  a  man  in  Continental  costume,  was  truly  a  sight.  We 
saw  the  professor,  whom  we  met  in  Greece,  and  his  party  in  line, 
and  taking  a  big  yellow  rose  from  my  belt  I  flung  it  into  the  carriage. 
They  looked  up  and  waved  their  hands,  and  there  was  a  general 
laugh  all  about  us.  It  seemed  to  me  more  like  a  carnival,  after  I 
had  thrown  something. 

The  Ponte  Vecchio,  the  oldest  bridge  in  Florence,  is  lined  with 
shops,  and  above  them  is  a  covered  passage  leading  from  the  Uffizi 
Gallery  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Arno  to  the  Pitti  Palace  on  the 
left.  For  centuries,  the  goldsmiths,  including  Cellini,  have  plied 
their  trade  upon  this   bridge. 

The  Pitti  Palace  was  erected  by  Luca  Pitti  in  1440,  to  exceed 
in  grandeur,  if  possible,  anything  built  by  his  rivals,  the  Medici, 
who,  a  few  years  later,  obtained  possession  of  it.  Built  of  huge 
blocks  of  stone  it  suggests  a  prison.  The  apartments  are  hung 
with  brocades  and  richly  furnished;  t\-  pric-dicu^'  m  the  king's  bed- 
room is  decorated  with  garlands  of  fruit,  made  of  jasper,  onyx,  lapis 
lazuli,  and  jade. 

The  Pitti  gallery  is  sumptuously  fitted  up  and  contains  many 
gems  of  painting;  among  them,  the  "Madonna  of  the  Chair,"  by 
Raphael,  and  the  "Concert,"  by  Giorgione.f 

The  masterpieces  of  Cellini  are  kept  in  the  Silver  Room.  As 
we  looked  into  the  glass  cases,  about  which  guards  are  stationed,  we 
realized  the  magnificence  of  the  massive  gold  services  hammered 
out  by  this  renowned  goldsmith,  for  the  Medici  princes.  There  is 
a  basin  in  repousse,  \  representing  the  abduction  of  Proserpine. 
Pluto  has  taken  her  in  his  arms,  while  in  the  boat  bearing  them 
to  Hades,  where,  as  his  wife,  she  afterward  reigned.  The  ferxor 
of  his  embrace  and  her  gentle  submission,  are  wonderfully  wrought. 
In  the  old    myth,  Pluto,  god  of  darkness,  loved   Proserpine  as  well 

*  Kneeling  desk,  for  prayers. 

f  Italian  artist  of  the  15th  century. 

%  Formed  in  relief. 


228  PISA  AND  FLORENCE 

as  Jupiter  loved  Juno,  and  from  all  accounts  was  rather  more  con- 
stant. We  lingered  spellbound  over  plate,  chalice  and  reliquary,* 
where  jewels  are  set  so  deftly  in  the  designs  that  they  seem  to  be 
painted.  But  the  guide's  impatience  awakened  us  from  this  "dream 
of  gold"  to  the  stern,  reality  of  dipping  into  our  purses  for  a  half  franc 
fee.  Oh,  to  think  that  I  had  to  come  away,  and  that  I  may  never 
again  see  those  perfect  creations!  Nevei'theless,  the  recollection  of 
them  is  all  mine  to  keep  in  the  storehouse,  of  my  memory,  forever. 

On  leaving  the  Silver  Room,  we  went  directl}-  into  the  Boboli 
Gardens,  which  are  laid  out  in  terraces  on  the  hill  back  of  the 
palace,  high  above  the  citw  There  is  a  very  pretty  grotto,  and 
innumerable  walks  wind  under  the  ilex  trees  trained  to  form  an 
arbor  overhead.  Some  of  the  paths  are  adorned  with  statues,  and 
lead  to  beautiful  fountains  and  rustic  summer  houses. 

The  policy  of  the  Medici  family,  so  far  as  agriculture  and 
commerce  were  concerned,  was  excellent,  and  though  they  ruled 
with  an  iron  hand,  their  patronage  of  art,  science  and  letters  was 
munificent.  Artist  after  artist  was  sought  out  and  aided  to  develop 
his  talents,  and  to  the  Medici  Florence  owes  many  of  her  treasures. 
The  pride  of  the  city  is  the  statue  of  David  by  Michael  Angelo, 
who  was  born  during  the  reign  of  Lorenzo,  the  Magnificent. 
Carved  from  a  block  of  marble,  discarded  as  spoiled,  it  stood  for 
years  in  front  of  the  Palazzo  Vecchio,  but  is  now  in  tlie  Academy 
of  Fine  Arts.  The  house  where  the  sculptor  lived  is  at  present  a 
museum.  His  remains  rest  in  the  church  of  Santa  Croce  beneath 
the  monument  erected  to  his  memory. 

The  day  before  we  left  Florence,  we  visited  the  Protestant 
cemetery,  where  Elizabeth  Barrett  Browning  is  buried.  Her  profile, 
laurel-crowned,  is  cut  in  low  relief  on  one  side  of  the  sarcophagus 
which  is  supported  by  four  columns.  Remembering  how  far  away 
beneath  the  stones  of  Westminster  Abbey  lies  the  husband  so 
fondly  beloved,    I   recall  the   lines  written  by  one  of   her  friends: — 

"Parted  in  death  they  lay, 
But  hand  in  hand  they 
Hold  their  eternal  way." 

*  Casket  inclosint:  relics. 


TOMB    OF    MICHAEL   ANGELO 


230 


FISA  AND  FLORENCE 


Near  by,  lies  Theodore  Parker;  and  though  the  poet  and  the 
prophet  are  here,  so  far  from  their  native  lands,  it  is  such  a 
beautiful  spot,  that  we  are  not  sorry. 

It  was  delightful,  toward  evening,  to  lean  over  the  parapet  by 
the  Arno,  as  the  setting  sun  gilded  the  fagade  of  San  Miniato  on 
the  height  across  the  river.  We  could  look  down  the  long  line  of 
statues  standing  guard  in  the  porticoes  of  the  Uffizi  and  see  the 
cold,  stern  face  of  Dante,  the  noble,  kindly  one  of  Michael  Angelo, 
and  the  thoughtful  countenance  of  Cellini.  It  seemed  as  if  we 
were  at  a  great  reception,  and  that  these  stately  figures  might  step 
from  their  places  and  stroll  across  the  Piazza  della  Signoria,  as  in 
centuries  gone  by.  Would  that  I,  too,  might  leave  to  the  world 
some  immortal  work,    an  inspiration  for  all   future  time! 


S?1:SI 


DANTE    MONUMENT,    FLORENCE 


CHAPTER   XVII 

THE    RIVIERA   AND  MILAN 

-^^HE    Riviera    is    a    narrow  strip  of   coast    stretching    from 
Spezia,    Italy,    to    Nice,    France.      It  is  bounded  on  the 
^H    r'ljrt     north  by  the  Apennines    and    Maritime  Alps,   while    on 
••glVfLp^      the  south  lies  the  Mediterranean  sea. 
/»/>4f   »! -,  About  three  hours  after  leaving  Florence,  we  passed 

Carrara,  near  Spezia;  the  famous  quarries  are  plainly 
visible  from  the  railroad.  The  mountain  sides  look  as 
if  an  avalanche  of  snow  dusted  with  soot  had  fallen  upon  them. 
The  town  of  Carrara  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  and  a 
railroad  brings  the  huge  blocks  of  precious  marble  to  the  sea,  for 
shipment.  West  of  Genoa,  the  railroad  runs  through  a  succession 
of  tunnels  piercing  the  spurs  of  the  mountains,  but  the  occasional 
sight  of  blue  waters  amply  repaid  us  for  the  smoke  and  discomfort 
we  had  to  endure.  At  one  moment,  we  would  see  gray,  desolate 
cliffs  rising  from  a  shimmering  sea;  at  the  next,  a  charming  valley 
rich  with  plantations  of  olives,  figs  and  aloes,  while  lemon  groves 
flourish  on  terraces  above.  The  gardens  in  the  little  villages  are 
inclosed  by  stone  walls  that  trail  up  and  down  the  slopes  like 
serpents,  their  tops  one  tangle  of  bright-hued  flowers — roses,  pink 
and  white,  scarlet  geraniums  and  giant  clumps  of  marguerites — 
which  climb  and  tumble  over  the  edges. 

As  we  passed  the  French  border  at  Ventimiglia,  the  archi- 
tecture became  irregular  in  outline.  The  square,  box-like,  Italian 
farmhouse  was  replaced  by  the  picturesque  French  cottage  with  its 
slanting  roof.  The  sides  and  rear  of  the  houses  show  the  original 
color  of  the  plaster,  a  gray  or  deep  cream,  in  sharp  contrast  to 
the  strawberry  pink,  blue,  or  yellow  of  the  painted  front.  The 
rocky  arms  of  the  coast  reach  out  into  the  deep  purple  of  the  sea, 
embracing    stretches  of    sandy  beach  as  clean    and    inviting    as  the 

232 


THF.   R/J-JERA  AN£>  MILAN 


233 


finest  of  nKirl)le  Ijaths.  The  soft  murmur  of  the  waves  on  the 
pebbly  strand,  and  the  dehcious  odor  of  the  flowers  is  indescribable. 
Nice,  lvin,<4'  in  a  hollow  formed  by  circling  hills,  has  one  of 
the  most  delightful  situations  on  the  Riviera.  Owing  to  its  shel- 
tered position  and  warm  climate,  it  has  long  been  a  favorite  winter 
resort  for  invalids  from  all  over  the  world.  The  finely  appointed 
hotels  provide  luxuries  as  well  as  comforts;  broad  avenues  afford 
pleasant  driving  and  riding,  and  numerous  theaters  and  concert 
gardens  furnish  entertainment  for  the  people.     We  were  disappointed 


CASINO   AND    PROMENADE    DES    ANGLAIS,   NICE 


to  find  Nice  so  much  like  a  modern  citv,  and  lacking  the  wilder 
beauty  of  the  smaller  towns  to  the  east.  We  lunched  at  the  Cafe 
de  la  Regence,  and  then  took  a  drive  about  the  citv.  The  avenues 
are  shaded  by  plane  trees  and  the  bark-shedding  eucalyptus.  At 
the  junction  of  the  Rue  de  France  with  a  side  street,  is  a  cross 
erected  on  the  spot  where  Francis  I.  met  Charles  V.  The  river 
Paillon,  which  flows  through  the  center  of  the  city,  has  been  cov- 
ered in  several  places,  and  handsome  squares  have  been  built  over 
it.  The  Casino  with  its  winter  garden  and  gaming  rooms  was 
closed.      In  front  of    this  favorite  resort  is  a  stalactite  grotto  over- 


234 


THE  RIVIERA  AND  MILAN 


hung  by  pepper  trees  and  aloes.      The  season  begins  about  January 
1st,  and  lasts  four  months. 

From  Nice  we  drove  six  miles  east  along  the  Riviera  to  Eze,  a 
village  perched  on  a  lofty  rock;  the  ancient  chateau  still  lifts  its 
battlements  aloft.  At  Eze  we  boarded  the  train  for  Monte  Carlo 
in  the  principalit)-  of  Monaco,  the  most  famous  and  fashionable 
gambling    place  in  the  world.      Its  outward    appearance  is  ideal;  it 


MONACO 

is  everything  that  a  poetic  soul  could  desire.  As  we  left  the  train, 
we  saw  above  us  a  cliff,  its  rough  sides  filled  in  with  growing 
ferns,  palms  and  gorgeous  flowers.  Winding  steps  led  to  the  top, 
whence  we  looked  for  miles  up  and  down  a  coast  that  is  beautiful 
beyond  words.  Across  a  deep  ravine,  on  a  promontory  rising  195 
ft.  from  the  sea  and  surrounded  by  ramparts,  is  the  town  of 
Monaco,  "the  capital  of  the  smallest  sovereign  principality  in 
Europe."  It  is  under  the  rule  of  the  Prince  of  Grimaldi,  but  France 
controls  the  customhouse  and  the  postal  revenues.  We  could  see, 
from  where  we    stood,    the    magnificent    palace  of  the  Prince,   with 


THE  RIVIERA  AND  MILAN 


235 


We    engaged  a  room  for 


its  gardens  of  date  palms  and  agaves 
the  night  at  the  Hotel  Terminus,  where  the  porter  presented  a 
blank  which  we  were  obliged  to  fill  out  with  our  name,  age,  na- 
tionality and  occupation,  tor  the  information  of  the  authorities. 
The  law  ot   the  principality  requires  this. 

As  we  had  decided  to  take  dinner  near  the  Casino  and  it  was 
almost  six  o'clock,  we  went  immediately  to  the  Cafe  de  Paris,  which 


CASINO    AND    GARDENS.  MONTE    CARLO 

faces  it;  many  of  the  players  dine  there.  A  delicious  repast  was 
served  and  our  appetites  were  only  half  satisfied,  when  a  woman 
entered  the  dining-room  and  took  a  seat  at  a  table  near  us.  She 
was  fully  sixty  years  of  age,  apparently  educated,  and  richly  dressed; 
diamonds  Hashed  from  her  ears,  throat  and  fingers;  but, — she  was 
intoxicated!  There  was  no  scene;  she  ordered  her  dinner  and  ate 
it  as  best  she  could,  but  the  bonnet  of  roses  and  lace  gradually 
slipped  to  one  side  of  her  head  and  the  poor  creature  mumbled 
continually  to  herself,  as  her  shaking  hands  tried  to  convey  the 
food  to  her  lips.     The    people,   about,    paid    no    attention    and    the 


236  THE  R/J-fERA   AND  MILAN 

waiter's  manner  was  respectful,  when  she  raised  a  pair  of  bleared 
eyes  and  attempted  to  look  angry  because  the  soup  was  not  hot 
enough.  This  incident  made  us  sick  at  heart,  and,  if  we  could 
have  taken  a  train  from  Monte  Carlo  that  night,  we  would  have 
done  so,    without   tr}'ing  to  see  any  more  of  the  place. 

After  walking  about  the  gardens  between  the  theater  and  the 
public  buildings,  we  decided  to  enter  the  Casino  and,  for  the  first 
time  in  our  lives,  see  a  gambling  table.  Mounting  the  steps  of 
the  handsome  edifice  with  its  columns  and  statues,  we  entered  a 
large  hall  out  of  which  opens  the  office  where  each  guest  presents 
a  visiting  card.  Here,  we  were  asked  if  we  wished  to  enter  the 
gaming  rooms,  and  upon  our  acquiescence,  received  a  card  of  ad- 
mission to  the  "  Salles  de  Jeu. "  Within  the  magic  portal,  which 
has  opened  to  admit  so  many  seekers  after  the  fickle  goddess 
Fortune,  is  a  long  salon  superbly  decorated,  and  furnished  with 
three  long  tables,  where  we  saw  a  company  of  men  and  women 
playing  roulette.  Out  of  this  salon  open  smaller  rooms,  where 
trente  ct  qiiarantc  engrossed  the  attention  of  the  players,  and  where 
the  stakes  were  heavier  than  in  the  game  of  roulette.  The  people 
were  as  businesslike  in  their  play  as  if  they  were  bank  clerks  en- 
gaged in  routine  work;  all  were  quiet  and  tossed  their  five  franc  pieces 
or  louis  upon  the  green  table  with  apparent  indifference  as  to  the 
result.  Those  who  staked  the  most  showed  no  sign  of  pleasure 
or  disappt)intment  at  the  turn  of  the  wheel.  No  one  spoke  to  us, 
though  the  croupiers  '"  glanced  up  inquisitively  now  and  then,  as 
we  stood  back  of  the  players  seated  at  the  table.  We  remained 
only  about  twenty  minutes  in  these  rooms,  and  without  having 
the  slightest  desire  to  stake  one  penny,  left  them  and  went  into 
the  concert-hall,  where  an  orchestra  was  rendering  a  program  of 
classical  music.  The  room  was  full,  and  we  saw  young  girls  with 
their  mammas,  and  many  tourists,  as  well  as  the  usual  frequenters 
of  the  place.  The  roof  of  the  Salle  des  Fetes  is  supported  by  a 
row  of  marble  ]iillars,  and  there  are  cushioned  divans  along  the 
sides  of  the  room .  Here,  people  promenade  between  the  numbers 
of  the  concert   program.     The   square  was  lighted  brilliantly  when 

*  Men  who  manage  the  game. 


238 


THE  RIVIERA  AND  MIIAN 


we  went  out  and  gaily-dressed  groups  were  laughing  and  chatting 
as  they  walked  about,   or  sipped  ices  under  the  trees. 

We  returned  to  Genoa  without  one  backward  look  at  the  spot 
where  so  much  beauty  conceals  a  serpent, — the  serpent  of  vice; 
where  men  and  women,  however  richly  dressed,  seem  like  sepulchers, 
artistic  carving  and  decoration  without,  ghastliness  within. 

Genoa  derives  its  name  from  the  Latin  word,  gcint,  meaning 
"knee,  "which   the  coast  resembles.      It  is  the  most  important  sea- 


CAMPO   SANTO,  GENOA 


port  in  Italy,  with  a  harbor,  four  miles  in  length,  sheltering  15,000 
vessels  each  year.  As  the  city  rises  from  the  sea,  upon  the  slopes 
of  the  Ligurian  Alps,  with  a  wealth  of  palaces,  marble  arcades  and 
luxuriant  gardens,  it  certainly  deserves  its  title,  "La  Superba." 
Its  enemies,  in  ancient  times,  characterized  Genoa  in  the  following 
proverb: — "A  sea  without  fish,  mountains  without  forests,  men 
without  faith  and  women  without  modesty." 

The   object    that  first  attracted    our   attention  as  we  came  out 
of    the    station,   on    May    19th,    was    the    monument    to    Columbus, 


STATUE    OF    COLUMBUS,    GENOA 


240 


THE  RIVIERA  AND  MILAN 


who  was  l)orn  here.  At  the  feet  of  the  discoverer  kneels  the  fi,G;ure 
of  America;  on  the  pedestal  are  prows  of  ships  and  allegorical  statues 
of  Religion,  Science,  Wisdom  and  Strength.  As  we  walked  up 
through  the  center  of  the  city,  we  passed  many  fine  palaces  on 
the  Via  Garibaldi,  where  we  also  found  the  bankers,  Granet,  Brown 

&  Co. ,  who  had  taken 
care  of  our  mail  from 
the  time  we  left  New 
York,  promptly  forward- 
ing letters,  according  to 
directions. 

Mr.  Fletcher,  the 
American  consul,  urged 
us  to  visit  the  cemetery, 
which  he  said  was  the 
finest  in  the  world.  Fol- 
lowing his  advice,  we 
drove  there  before  tak- 
ing the  train  for  Milan, 
on  the  following  morn- 
ing. It  is  located  in  the 
\-alley  of  the  Bisagno, 
about  one  and  a  half 
miles  from  the  city.  At 
first,  our  wa}'  lay  along 
the  heights  above  Genoa, 
and  then  descended  the 
slopes  on  the  other  side.  At  the  turns  of  the  road,  we  had  views 
of  the  harbor  crowded  with  vessels  from  all  countries.  A  large 
number  of  the  tombs  in  the  "Campo  Santo, "as  the  Italians  term 
the  cemetery,  are  in  stone  galleries.  In  the  center  of  the  upper 
gallery  is  a  rotunda,  containing  a  chapel  lavishly  decorated.  Several 
people  of  note,  including  Camilla  Urso,  the  violinist,  are  laid  in  the 
crypt.  Many  of  the  monuments  are  between  the  pillars  of  the  open 
arcades,  the  body  being  beneath;  other  bodies  are  placed  in  niches 
rising  one  above  another  and  closed  by  marble  slabs  bearing  in- 
scriptions.    A    tomb    that    attracted    us,   especially,   was    that   of   a 


MONUMENT    TO  YOUNG    GIRL 


THE  RIVIERA  AND  MILAN  241 

young  girl,  portrayed  as  rising  from  licr  couch,  in  answer  to  the 
summons  of  an  angel. 

In  going  from  Genoa  to  Milan,  one  crosses  the  plain  of  Lom- 
barcly.  The  principal  rivers  watering  its  rich  farms  are  the  Po 
and  the  Ticino,  which  are  diverted  into  canals,  bordered  by  rows 
of  trees  set  closely  together,  their  roots  forming  a  bed  for  the 
water.  This  part  of  the  country  has  been  irrigated  since  the  12th 
centur}',  and  sometimes  yields  twelve  crops  in  one  year.  The 
system  was  impro^■ed  by  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  who  was  not  only  a 
great  artist,  but  a  practical  engineer  as  well. 

At  the  present  writing,  we  are  comfortal)ly  housed  at  the 
Hotel  Metropole  on  the  Piazza  del  Duomo,  *  a  square  so  spacious 
that  one  can  see  all  sides  of  the  great  cathedral  to  good  advantage. 
Its  countless  glittering  spires  and  pinnacles  finished  by  statues 
stand  out  against  the  sky,  clear  cut  as  cameos.  This  cathedral, 
next  in  size  to  St.  Peter's  and  the  cathedral  of  Seville,  is  in  the 
Gothic  style  with  Romanesque  modifications.  Begun  in  1386,  it 
was  not  completed  until  after  Napoleon  I.  set  artisans  to  work 
upon  the  facade.  One  of  his  weaknesses  cropped  out  when  he 
added  his  own  statue,  in  antique  costume,  to  the  multitude  already 
on  the  edifice.  The  stained  glass  windows  are  the  largest  known 
and  are  a  blaze  of  color,  at  midday.  In  the  costly  chapel  under- 
neath the  high  altar,  is  the  tomb  of  San  Carlo  Borromeo,  a  famous 
archbishop  of  Milan.  For  a  fee,  the  sacristan  raises  the  outer 
casket  of  silver,  and  discloses  the  coffin  of  rock  crystal,  through 
which  the  body  can  be  seen.  It  is  clothed  in  rich  vestments  and 
covered  with  jewels;  on  the  breast  is  a  superb  cross  of  emeralds 
given   by  Maria  Theresa  of  Austria. 

Opposite  the  cathedral  stands  the  royal  palace.  There,  Na- 
poleon I.,  Victor  Emanuel  and  Humbert,  have  lived.  The  Grand 
Salon,  where  it  is  said  that  Napoleon  held  several  fetes,  is  like  a 
gallery  of  statuary.  The  effect  of  4,000  candles  set  in  Venetian 
glass  chandeliers,  when  reflected  in  a  polished  floor,  is  brilliant 
indeed.  There  are  marble  busts  of  Napoleon  and  his  two  wives 
in  several  of  the  rooms. 

*  Cathedral. 
i6 


.p^- 


•'>^^^-..~'*f^"^ 


g'O 


F 


:^^^^'^?k^^i 


i'W^— ~4 


THE  RIVIERA  AND  MILAN 


243 


modern     glass-roofed 


The  Milanese  points  with  pride  to  a 
arcade  connecting  the  Piazza  del  Duomo  with  the  Piazza  della 
Scala,  where  stands  the  colossal  statue  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci. 
Within  this  arcade  are  fine  shops  and  restaurants.  We  were 
amused  when  an  English  waiter  in  one  of  the  restaurants  informed 
us,    with   an  air  of    pride,    that    they  had    an    "Irish    stew."      Evi- 


BRAWINGROOM    IN    ROYAL   PALACE 

dently  they  are  in  demand  by  tourists,  and  I  do  not  wonder,  for 
the  one  we  had  was  delicious. 

The  celebrated  theater,  La  Scala,  facing  the  piazza  of  the 
same  name,  was  built  on  the  site  of  a  church  erected  by  Beatrice 
della  Scala,  a  Milanese  noblewoman.  In  this  theater  some  of  the 
greatest  singers  in  the  world  have  won  their  laurels.  There  are 
no  performances  at  this  season  of  the  year,  but  we  were  permitted 
to  inspect  the  stage,  which  is  the  largest  in  Europe.  The  acoustic 
properties  of  La  Scala  are  marvellous.  When  we  clapped  our 
hands  in  front  of  the  stage,  the  clap  sounded  like  a  pistol  fired 
in   the   gallery. 

Leonardo  da  Vinci  (1452-15 19)  was  marvellously  gifted.  To 
the    mind  of  a  philosopher   he    added    the    talents  of   an   engineer, 


MONUMENT    TO    CAVOUR,    MILAN 


TFJE  RIVIERA  AND  MILAN  245 

architect,  musician  and  painter  and  was,  withal,  such  a  thorough  stu- 
dent that  the  manuscripts  which  lie  left  to  the  world  have  been  used 
as  text-books,  ever  since.  Handsome  in  person  and  agreeable  in 
manners,   it  is  small  wonder    that    he  was  the    idol  of   the    people. 

The  most  celebrated  work  of  art  in  Milan  is  his  picture  of  the 
"Last  Supper,"  painted  in  oils  on  the  end  wall  of  the  refectory 
in  the  monastery  of  Santa  Maria  delle  Grazie.  If  he  had  only 
employed  the  reliable  method  of  fresco,  we  might  still  have  this 
wondrous  creation  intact,  but  time  and  dampness  have  combined 
to  destroy  it.  There  is  a  wonderful  majesty  about  the  figure  of 
the  Saviour,  indistinct  as  it  is.  To  mv  mind,  divinity  is  more 
nearl}'  portrayed  in  this  face  than  in  any  other  representation.  The 
artist  has  depicted  the  moment  when  Jesus  has  just  uttered  the  words, 
"One  of  you  shall  betray  me!"  The  guilt  in  the  face  of  Judas 
and  the  consternation  of  the  other  disciples  onlv  make  more  im- 
pressive and  solemn  the  resignation  and  suffering  in  the  features 
of  the  Master. 

We  saw  a  number  of  Leonardo's  drawings  in  the  Biblioteca 
Ambrosiana,  justly  considered  one  of  the  famous  libraries  of  the 
world.  It  contains  160,000  printed  books,  besides  a  great  number 
of  rare  MSS.  We  saw  MSS.  of  Homer,  dating  from  the  4th 
centur}-;  a  cop}-  of  Virgil,  with  marginal  notes  by  Petrarch;  letters 
of  Tasso,  Galileo  and  the   Medici. 

One  of  the  finest  monuments  in  the  citv  is  that  erected  to 
the  memory  of  Cavour,  the  regenerator  of  Italy,  a  statesman,  the 
very  mention  of  whose  name  kindles  the  patriotic  spark  in  every 
Italian  breast. 

I  have  only  given  you  a  hint  of  the  treasures  of  Milan,  but 
time  passes  and  we  must  away.  We  are  going  to  leave  our  bag- 
gage, with  the  exception  of  a  hand  satchel,  in  the  hotel  here, 
until  we  return  from  Venice.  We  leave  early  to-morrow,  by  a 
slow  train  (third-class),  and  hope  thus  to  see  something  of  the 
country  and  the  peasants  along  the  route. 


CHAPTER   XVIII 

VENICE 

KNOW  of  nothin_i4  more  enjoyable,  caj'a  viia,"  than  to 
float  down  the  Grand  Canal  at  Venice  on  a  moonlit 
'^T^  Bf  ini^ht  in  May.  As  one  rests  amid  the  cushions  of  the 
"'  w/  .^oi^dola,  all  the  senses  are  inthralled  by  the  beauty  and 
witchery  of  this  "Bride  of  the  Sea."  The  blackened 
\^^  fagades  of  the  old  palaces  are  veneered  with  silver,  and 
'  '  the  onlv  sound  that  breaks  the  stillness  is  the  musical 
"Stall  oh!"f  or  "  Lungo  eh!";};  of  the  gondolier,  as  he  swings  the 
boat  into  a  side  canal,  or  shoots  by  it.  The  charm  of  Venice  is 
in  her  decay,  for  nowhere  are  Time's  ravages  more  apparent.  Her 
buildings  and  bridges,  standing  upon  piles,  are  stained  with  the 
tides  of  centuries  and  burned  with  the  fierce  heat  ot  the  summer's 
sun,  but  who  would  have  them  restored?  They  have  grown  old 
gracefully,  like  a  woman  who  sets  a  square  of  rare  old  lace  on 
her  whitened  locks,   instead  of  a  rose  bonnet. 

The  cjuiet  is  delightful;  no  rattle  of  wheels;  no  clatter  of  hoofs. 
Only  the  sound  of  church  bells  and  the  murmur  of  voices  come 
to  our  ears  at  night.  We  can  forget  in  the  moonlight  that  morning 
will  bring  hideous  steam-launches  to  rush  past  the  slow-moving 
gondolas,  forcing  us  to  remember  that  progress  has  entered  this 
haven  of  rest;  that,  instead  of  bra\c  crusaders  with  scarlet  crosses, 
a  cosmopolitan  throng  will  assemble  in  the  Piazza  San  Marco. 
Nevertheless,  in  spite  of  these  drawbacks,  in  spite  of  the  merchants' 
signs  stretched  across  palaces  once  inhabited  by  princes,  Venice  is 
still  her  queenly  self,  and  until  the  Lion  ot  St.  Mark  folds  his 
wings,    and    St.    Theodore    topples    from    his    lottv  throne,    she  will 

*  My  dear. 

t  To  the  left! 

;|;  Strai;^ht  ahead  1 

246 


1     ■'■■I  :«?-*•- 


%  ••«»     ;.♦.  ,     /'I 


248  VENICE 

continue  to  enslave  the  hearts  of  men  and  add  to  her  almost  end- 
less train  of  courtiers.  Ah,  merely  to  live  in  Venice  is  a  joy! 
With  the  smallest  of  incomes,  one  can  have  a  room  in  an  old 
palace,  a  coin  for  the  (gondolier,  another  for  the  macaroni  and 
twisted  roll.      It  seems  as  if  here  one  might  rest. 

The  railway  from  Milan,  after  passing  Fort  Malghera,  enters 
Venice  by  a  bridge  two  and  a  third  miles  in  length.  In  the  dis- 
tance, the  city  looked  so  like  a  giant  raft  loaded  with  fantastic 
shapes,  that  it  was  disappointing  to  come  into  an  ordinar\'  station. 
However,  at  the  exit,  all  was  strange  and  delightful.  A  gondola, 
rowed  by  a  stalwart  boatman  standing  on  the  poppa,  *  landed  us 
at  the  Piazzetta,  adjoining  the  Piazza  San  Marco.  Here  we  en- 
gaged rooms  at  a  hotel   bearing  the  same  name. 

The  Piazza  is  like  a  vast,  open-air  ballroom  and  has  a  fine 
pavement  of  trachyte  and  marble  without  a  stick  or  a  stone  to 
interrupt  its  smooth  expanse.  It  is  inclosed  on  three  sides  by  old 
palaces,  of  which  the  ground  floors  are  converted  into  caffc  and 
shops,  and  on  the  fourth  side,  by  the  cathedral  of  St.  Mark  and 
the  Piazzetta.  In  the  late  afternoon  or  evening,  the  Piazza  is 
much  frequented.  Tourists  from  every  country  on  the  globe  sit 
at  little  tables  in  front  of  Florian's  or  the  Caffe  San  Marco.  Noble 
Venetian  ladies  with  aquiline  noses  and  delicately  curved  lips,  in 
costumes  direct  from  Paris,  promenade  the  s<]uare.  There  are  fat, 
old  Jews  from  the  Ghetto,  f  smoking  the  long  Italian  cigars,  and 
pretty  buxom  damsels  of  the  middle  classes,  who,  thank  Fortune! 
have  not  yet  discarded  the   mantilla  or  the  necklace  of  corals. 

All  the  world  loves  the  Piazza  and  all  the  world  admires  the 
oriental  splendor  of  the  Byzantine  cathedral  of  St.  Mark  that  faces 
upon  it.  When  the  sunlight  falls  upon  the  facade  of  this  edifice, 
striking  across  the  five  domes,  the  bronze  horses  over  the  main 
portal,  and  the  mosaics,  it  glows  as  if  set  witli  precious  stones. 
The  church  is  built  chiefly  of  materials  taken  by  the  Venetians 
from  conquered  nations,  for  the  city  is  a  vast  storehouse  of  plunder 
incorporated  in  the  churches  and  palaces. 

The  effect  of  the  interior,   enriched  with  priceless  mosaics,  ala- 

*  Covered  stern. 

f  The  Jews'  quarter. 


250  VENICE 

baster  and  choice  marbles,  is  overwhelming.  Tlie  pavement  of 
stone  mosaic  dates  from  the  12th  century  and,  though  frequently 
restored,  is  in  a  deplorable  condition.  Beneath  the  high  altar  rest 
the  ashes  of  St.  Mark,  brought  from  Alexandria  in  829.  The  altar- 
piece  of  plates  of  gold  and  silver,  enamelled  and  set  with  gems, 
was    made    in   Constantinojile  in    i  105. 

Thousands  of  pigeons  find  homes  under  the  arches  of  St. 
Mark's,  and  are  fed  daily  by  the  charitable,  who  buy  corn  sold 
for  that  purpose  in  the  Piazza.  These  plump  birds  with  iridescent 
throats  alight  familiarly  upon  one's  arms  and  shoulders,  a  bright, 
inquiring  look  in  their  eyes,    as  if  asking  for  more  grain. 

In  the  Piazzetta  are  two  granite  columns,  spoils  from  an 
eastern  city;  one  bearing  the  Winged  Lion  of  St.  Mark,  the  other, 
St.  Theodore  on  a  crocodile,  representing  the  Divine  Spirit  con- 
([uering  tlic  venomous  in  life.  Ruskin  jioints  out  that  one  of 
these  shafts  is  slender,  the  other  more  massive;  that  the  clever 
Venetian  who  carved  the  capitals  conceived  the  idea  of  placing  a 
large  top  on  the  slender  column,  and  a  smaller  one  on  the  other; 
thus,  by  careful  graduation  of  line  and  curve,  equalizing  the  two 
and  making  them  as  nearly  twin  pillars  as  possible.  Prisoners  of 
state  were  executed    between  them. 

Towering  above  the  surrounding  buildings  is  the  Campanile, 
322  ft.  in  height.  The  sculptured  vestibule  at  the  base  was  once 
a  favorite   meeting-place  of  the  nobility. 

Close  to  the  cathedral  is  the  Palace  of  the  Doges,  who  once 
ruled  Venice.  It  has  been  destroyed  five  times  and,  each  time, 
rebuilt  with  greater  magnificence  than  before.  On  the  west  and 
south  of  the  present  Gothic  structure,  built  in  the  15th  centurv, 
are  colonnades,  one  above  the  other;  there  are  thirty-six  columns 
in  the  lower,  and  sevent3'-one  in  the  upper  which  is  called  "La 
Loggia."  Upon  this  rests  the  upper  part  of  the  building  faced  by 
slabs  of  colored  marble.  The  capitals  of  the  columns  below  are 
richly  carved;  while  all  are  beautitul,  the  one  on  the  corner  next 
the  lagoons  is  considered  by  some  critics  to  be  the  finest  in 
Europe.  The  grouping  of  the  sculptured  foliage  is  strikingly 
natural;  one  almost  feels  the  wind  in  the  broad  acanthus  leaves, 
they  seem  so  flexible. 


VENETIA    RECEIVING    JUSTICE    AND    PEACE 


252  VENICE 

When  we  reached  the  top  of  the  Giants'  Staircase,  so  called 
from  the  colossal  statues  of  Mars  and  Neptune  on  the  landinf;;,  we 
stood  upon  the  ver)'  spot  where  the  Doges  were  crowned.  In  the 
loggia,  be3-ond,  is  a  line  of  portrait  busts  of  great  Italians;  among 
them,  those  of  John  and  Sebastian  Cabot,  so  closely  allied  to  the 
history  of  our  country. 

The  furniture  of  the  state  apartments  has  long  since  been 
removed,  but  the  paintings  inclosed  in  carved  frames  of  gilded 
wood  or  stucco,  some  of  them  a  foot  and  a  half  in  depth,  give  an 
idea  of    the    splendor  of    the    palace,   when  Venice    ruled  the  seas. 

After  passing  through  the  Hall  of  the  Four  Doors,  we  entered 
the  Hall  of  the  Assembly,  where  the  glorious  ceiling  paintings  by 
Paolo  Veronese  and  the  ' '  Marriage  of  St.  Catherine  "  painted  on 
the  side  wall  by  Tintoretto  interpret  something  of  the  feeling  and 
spirit  of  ancient  Venice. 

In  Tintoretto's  famous  picture,  we  see  a  young  girl,  with  purity 
of  heart  stamped  upon  her  sweet  face,  ascending  a  flight  of  steps 
to  receive  the  ring  held  out  by  the  Christ  child,  who,  in  the  arms 
of  the  Madonna,  leans  forward  to  greet  her.  The  Virgin's  blue 
mantle  is  upheld  b)'  angels.  This  picture  is  especially  noteworthy 
because  of  the  fine  composition  and  careful  blending  of  the  colors. 

How  I  wish  you  could  see  the  painting  of  "Venetia,"  seated 
on  the  globe,  giving  audience  to  Justice  and  Peace!  Think  of  a 
Venus  with  golden  hair  bound  with  pearls,  eyes  of  slumbering  fire, 
checks  the  color  of  a  glowing  rose,  throat  where  the  delicate  blue 
veins  show  through  the  transparent  skin,  and  mouth  like  a  ripe 
pomegranate.  Clothe  this  goddess  in  gold-brocaded  satin  and  a 
crimson  velvet  mantle  lined  with  ermine.  Give  her  the  soul  of  a 
patrician  proud  ot  the  State,  her  rank  and  learning,  and  vou  will 
see  the  Venetia  of  Veronese. 

The  Virtues  occupy  the  smaller  compartments  of  the  ceiling. 
"Moderation"  is  represented  heckling  a  restive  eagle  by  the  wing; 
th(.'  arm  of  'T'idelity  '  is  about  the  neck  of  a  huge  mastifl;  the 
most  charming  of  nil,  'Tndustry,"  holds  aloft  a  web.  The  poise 
of  this  figure  is  free,  the  sweep  of  the  silken  draperies,  regal,  while 
the  splendid  eyes,  beaming  with  sublime  energ}-,  look  up  through 
the  web  as  if  invoking  divine  benediction  upon  all  honest  labor. 


254 


VENICE 


I'aolo  Veronese,  an  Italian  artist  of  the  i6th  century,  painted 
sacred  compositions  in  a  secular  st3'le  which  was  both  luxurious 
and  refined.  He  could  not  conceive  any  one  in  simple  robes,  but 
put  silks  and  jewels  upon  the  saints,  as  if  they  were  people  of 
fashion;  even  the  blue  robe  of  the  Saviour,  in  some  pictures,  is  of 
rich  material.  Both  in  his  works  and  in  those  of  Tintoretto,  the 
Doees  were  alvvavs  introduced,  but  the  seeminc'  incongruity  is  for- 
<^otten  in  one's  enjo\'ment  of  the  perfect  paintinf^.  Ruskin  says, 
"You  will  in  no  other  way  enter  so  deeply  into  the  heart  of  the 
Venice  of  the  15th  and  i6th  centuries,  as  by  studying  the  senti- 
ments expressed  in  these  very  paintings  of  Veronese,  for  she  loved 
pomp  and  splendor,  *  *  *  beauty  and  wealth,  and  with  it  all, 
she  loved  her  saints  and  her  sovereign,  and  could  never  separate 
them.  *  *  *  To  be  the  sovereign  was  to  be  in  close  com- 
munion with  God,  and  to  be  appointed  by  him,  *  *  *  and  we 
must  study  art  as  we  do  history,  for  the  feeling  of  the  times,  tor 
art  is  history  made  beautiful." 

From  the  Hall  of  the  Senate,  to  the  sessions  of  which  the 
senators,  in  early  times,  were  especially  invited,  we  passed  to  the 
Hall  of  the  Council  of  Ten.  This  council  was  elected  by  the 
Grand  Council,  and,  with  the  Doge,  judged  a  certain  class  of 
offenders.  Before  its  tribunal,  only,  the  cause  of  the  defendant 
could  not  be  pleaded  by  any  of  his  connections;  but,  as  the  laws 
of  the  Republic  required  that  each  prisoner  should  be  allowed  a 
defender,  two  lawyers  were  hired  b\-  the  go\ernment  to  attend  to 
the  needs  of  poor  prisoners. 

In  the  Hall  of  the  Three  Chiefs  of  the  Council,  there  is  a 
small  cabinet  in  the  wall;  a  slit  in  the  back  of  it  communicates  with 
the  antechamber,  where  it  was  formerly  covered  by  a  lion's  head 
of  marble,  into  the  mouth  of  which  documents  with  secret  infor- 
mation for  the  Council  were  inserted,  a  severe  penalty  being 
attached  to  a  false  denunciation. 

The  Great  Council  was  the  governing  body  to  which  belonged 
only  the  nobility,  i.  e. ,  those  whose  names  were  inscribed  in  the 
Golden  Book  of  Descent  and  who  had  attained  the  age  of  twenty 
years.  In  electing  its  members,  the  Council  used  silver  and  gold 
ballots.      If,  when  his  name  was  called,  the  candidate  drew  a  gold 


i^ENTCR  255 

ballot,    he  was    admitted;    otherwise,    he  had  to  wait   another  year. 

In  the  Hall  of  the  Great  Council  is  a  hu^e  canvas,  stretching 
across  the  end  wall  which  is  seventy-eight  ieet  wide.  The  subject 
is  Paradise,  where  the  enthroned  Christ  is  surrounded  b}'  a  vast 
multitude  of  figures.  This,  the  largest  oil  ]iainting  in  the  world, 
was  executed  by  Jacopo  Robusti,  born  in  15 12,  and  dubbed  "Tin- 
toretto," because  his  father  was  a  dyer.  His  motto  was,  "The 
drawing  of  Michael  Angelo  with   the  coloring  of  Titian." 

The  windows  of  the  Hall  of  the  Great  Council  open  upon  a 
balcony  overlooking  the  lagoons  and  islands;  the  Lido  and  San 
Lazzaro  lie  to  the  left.  We  leaned  over  the  balustrade  and 
watched  the  gondolas  moored  to  the  quay,  below.  Two  of  them, 
evidently  belonging  to  some  prelate  or  to  a  family  of  importance, 
were  lined  with  black  cloth,  the  overhanging  lappets  of  the  canopy 
cut  in  squares  and  bound  with  gilt  braid.  The  two  gondoliers 
wore  a  livery  of  black  and  gold. 

The  library  holds  many  rare  manuscripts;  among  them,  a  very 
old  Slavonic  Testament,  a  copy  of  Dante's  Divine  Comedy  dating 
from  the  13th  centurv,  the  first  book  printed  in  Venice  in  1469, 
and  a  missal  Ijound  in  Byzantine  covers  incrusted  with  pearls, 
which,  in  tlu  9th  century,  belonged  to  the  church  of  St.  Sophia, 
at  Constantinople. 

The  prisons,  which  are  underneath  the  palace,  are  reached  by 
a  narrow  staircase.  Some  of  the  dungeons  are  grewsome  enough; 
small  and  absolutely  dark,  \\ith  apertures  in  the  wall  for  the 
admission  of  food  and  air.  The  most  dangerous  prisoners  were 
once  confined  in  these  dungeons;  near  them  was  the  torture  cham- 
ber,  and  the  place  for  executions. 

A  covered  marble  bridge,  renowned,  the  world  over,  as  the 
Bridge  of  Sighs,  connects  the  palace  with  the  prison  opposite,  which 
is  still  in  use.  We  walked  along  the  narrow  passage  and  looked 
through  the  barred  windows  that  have  given  many  an  unfortunate 
his  last  glimpse  of  the  outside  world.  How  welcome  was  the  fresh 
air  and  soft,  bright  sunshine  as  we  came  from  that  fateful  spot 
into  the  broad  Piazza! 

An  Italian  artist  tells  me  that,  one  evening  a  few  years  ago, 
he  was  sitting  at  a  table  in  the  Piazza  with  some  friends,  including 


THE    BRICGE    OF    SIGHS.    VENICE 


VEX  ICE  257 

a  German  artist  from  Nurembero-,  when  a  young  lady  elegantly 
dressed,  and  accompanied  by  a  middle-aged  woman,  passed  down 
the  promenade.  The  girl  was  evidently  an  aristocrat,  and  so 
beautiful  that  she,  at  once,  attracted  the  attention  of  the  group. 
They  noticed,  especially,  her  extreme  pallor,  and  spoke  of  her, 
afterwards,   as  the    "marble    bride." 

One  evening  several  weeks  later,  the  same  friends  were  drink- 
ing their  coffee  in  front  of  a  caffc  on  the  Riva  degli  Schiavoni,  a 
handsome  quay  east  of  the  Doge's  Palace,  when  the  young  woman 
and  her  companion  again  appeared.  This  time,  she  was  plainly 
attired  and  wore  a  dark  veil.  Approaching  the  caffc,  she  stopped, 
and,  throwing  back  her  veil,  drew  from  the  folds  of  her  mantle  a 
violin  and  began  to  play.  In  a  moment,  every  one's  attention  was 
arrested  by  the  strains  of  exquisite  music,  drawn  from  the  instru- 
ment. An  acquaintance  of  our  friend  exclaimed,  '  •  Is  she  really 
here!"  In  reply  to  the  eager  questioning  of  the  others,  he  stated 
that  she  belonged  to  one  of  the  best  families  in  Trieste;  that  he 
had  heard  rumors  of  her  being  in  Venice,  but  had  not  seen  her 
before,  and  could  not  understand  why  she  should  appear  as  a  street 
musician.  As  the  violinist  finished  playing,  the  elder  lady,  whom 
the  artist  judged  to  be  her  mother,  passed  through  the  crowd  which 
had  gathered,  collecting  coins,  and  presently  the  two  disappeared. 
This  performance  was  repeated  on  a  number  of  evenings,  and,  in 
the  meantime,  the  German  artist  seemed  to  be  the  only  one  who 
succeeded  in  becoming  acquainted  with  the  fair  musician. 

One  day,  our  Italian  friend  dropped  into  the  German's  studio 
and  found  him  painting  a  picture  of  three  young  girls  playing  upon 
violins.  He  saw,  on  close  examination,  that  the  three  were  painted 
from  one  model  in  diiTerent  positions,  and  that  this  model  was 
the   ' '  marble  bride. " 

A  short  time  afterward,  on  the  evening  of  a  festival,  the  Grand 
Canal  was  illuminated,  and  alive  with  boats.  When  the  throng 
was  greatest,  a  steam  launch,  in  pushing  its  way  from  station  to 
station  through  the  maze  of  gondolas,  capsized  one  in  which  were 
seated  the  young  girl,  her  mother  and  the  German  artist.  The 
German  was  saved;  the  mother  lived  two  days  after  being  taken 
to  the  hospital,  but  the  lovely  \iolin  player  was  drowned. 
17 


258  VENICE 

From  that  time  on,  the  German's  unhappiness  was  marked, 
and,  in  a  few  days,  he  was  missed  from  his  usual  haunts.  Dis- 
turbed by  his  absence,  our  Itahan  friend  went  again  to  his  studio 
and  there  discovered  him  seated  despondently  before  the  picture 
which  he  declared  he  could  never  finish;  a  week  later,  he  was 
found  dead,    and  it  is  believed    that  he  took  his  own  life. 

The  picture  of  the  "Three  Violin  Players  "  hangs  at  present 
in  the  National  Gallery  at  Berlin  and,  though  still  unfinished,  is 
considered  a  masterpiece. 

One  morning,  with  map  and  guidebook,  we  proceeded  to  prowl, 
as  we  delight  to  do,  among  the  back  streets  and  alleys  where  we  can 
see  the  people  who  are  born,  live  and  die  in  one  place;  not  the  fash- 
ionable folk,  who  ape  the  Parisians  and  whose  children  are  educated 
abroad.  We  wandered  m  and  out  of  the  calli,  narrow  streets 
connected  by  bridges  over  the  small  canals,  stopping  to  look  into 
the  shop-windows  or  watching  the  provision-dealer  sell  potatoes, 
steaming  hot  from  an  iron  kettle.  Florentine  butchers  often  roast 
a  leg  of  mutton,  or  3'oung  chickens  on  a  turning  spit,  in  lull  view 
of  the  passers  by,  but  we  did  not  see  it  done  here,  much  to  our 
disappointment.  On  the  way  back  to  the  hotel,  we  bought  some 
boiled  potatoes,  and  fried  them  over  our  alcohol  lamp;  with  trcsh 
rolls  and  strawberries,    we  had  a  real  treat. 

The  Rialto  has  been  the  principal  bridge  over  the  Grand 
Canal  since  1591,  when  the  last  marble  block  was  placed  in  position 
upon  the  span.  Ancient  Venice  was  situated  on  the  island,  Rivo 
alto,*  which  gave  its  name  to  this  bridge,  on  which  are  shops 
patronized  by  the  lower  classes.  Crossing  to  the  west  side  of  the 
canal,  we  stopped  and  looked  back  toward  the  bank  we  had  just 
left,  where,  away  up  near  the  top  of  an  old  building,  and  almost 
obliterated,    is  a  fresco    by  no  other    than    the    master  Giorgione.f 

Naturally,  we  were  reminded  of  Sh}-lock  as  we  found  ourselves 
in  the  Jews'  quarter.  Near  the  fruit  market  is  a  short  granite 
column;  in  the  i6th  centurv,  the  laws  of  the  I\epublic  were  pro- 
mulgated fi"om  its  flat  top. 

*  High  bank. 

t  Giorgio   Barbarelli    (1477-1511),    called   Giorgione,    meaning   George   the 
Great,  from  his  noble  figure. 


26o  VENICE 

Recrossing  the  Rialto,  we  walked  down  a  back  street  where 
the  crab-catchers  boil  and  prepare  crabs  for  the  market.  Over  a 
charcoal  fire  built  close  to  the  edge  of  the  canal  is  suspended  a 
big,  black  pot  into  which  the  live  crabs  are  plunged  to  boil.  When 
done,  they  are  ladled  out  into  baskets;  then,  one  by  one,  scrubbed 
with  a  brush,  in  the  waters  of  the  canal,  until  they  look  clean. 
We  wonder  how  any  one  can  eat  them,  knowing  where  they  have 
been  washed;  for  there  are  smells  in  Venice  equal  to  those  of 
Cologne,  and  they  nearly  all  come  from  the  canals,  which  do  not 
seem  to  be  entirely  wholesome,  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  the  rise 
and  fall  of  the  tide  is  about  two  feet. 

In  the  doorways  of  neighboring  houses,  young  women  cluster 
in  groups,  stringing  beads  for  the  fans  and  necklaces  that  are  sold 
in  the  bazaars  and  on  the  streets.  They  hold  a  pan  of  beads  on 
their  knees,  and,  tipping  it  with  the  left  hand,  thrust  a  bunch  of 
wires,  held  fan-shaped  in  the  right  hand,  in  rapid  succession  into 
the  pan,  so  that  they  catch  up  the  bits  of  glass  and  are  soon  full. 
These  women,  who  beg  of  every  passing  stranger,  are  of  the  lowest 
class,   and  their  faces  are  absolutely  expressionless. 

Tired  with  our  walk,  we  engaged  a  gondola  and  started  for  a 
lone  row  to  the  island  of  Murano.  As  we  turned  into  a  narrow 
canal,  we  noticed  a  gondola  ahead  containing  two  women  and  three 
men.  In  the  center  of  the  boat  was  a  tiny  casket  covered  with  a 
black  pall,  a  cross  in  white  braid  outlined  upon  it  and  flowers 
heaped  above.  Suddenly,  there  seemed  to  be  some  difficulty  about 
the  rowing  of  the  boat,  and  one  of  the  men  stripped  off  the  white 
gown  that  he  wore,  showing  a  workman's  blouse  underneath;  then, 
taking  another  oar,  he  assisted  the  gondolier,  and  on  they  went. 

As  it  was  our  intention  to  stop  at  the  Campo  Santo  on  our 
way  to  Murano,  we  followed  them.  They  placed  the  casket  in  the 
center  of  the  little  chapel  on  this  island  set  apart  for  the  burial  of  the 
dead.  Two  priests  appeared  and  ]X'rformed  a  hasty,  and,  to  us,  a 
soulless,  ceremony.  Then  the  two  men  in  white  gowns,  evidently 
the  father  and  the  grandfather  of  the  child,  picked  up  the  wooden 
bier,  and,  followed  by  the  women,  went  out  to  the  cemetery,  about 
which  ran  a  gallcrv  with  rows  of  compartments.  We  stayed  at  a 
respectful  distance  until   they  had    placed   the  jilain   pine  box  in  its 


I'EXICE  261 

niche  and  bricked  up  the  opening.  It  seemed  so  pathetic!  no  one 
wept;  no  one  but  the  bearers  looked  sad;  the  two  women  carried 
their  tall  candles  as  if  in  a  festal  procession.  The  priest,  wlio 
accompanied  them,  began  to  take  of[  his  vestments  as  soon  as  the 
workingmen  opened  the  niche  in  the  wall,  and,  with  the  bov  attend- 
ant,   trotted  away  without  saying  a  word  to  the  people. 

Alurano  possesses  3,900  inhabitants,  the  majorit}'  more  or  less 
interested  in  the  manufacture  of  Venetian  glass,  an  industry  iden- 
tified with  the  island  since  the  14th  century.  The  children  of 
Venetian  nobles  in  the  old  days  intermarried  with  those  of  the 
glass  manufacturei"s,  and  their  descendants  inherited  titles  of 
nobilitv.  JNIurano  had  its  own  Golden  Book  of  Descent,  and  its 
own   mint. 

The  Museum  contains  rare  specimens  of  the  glass  blowers'  art, 
many  secrets  of  which  were  long  lost. 

In  the  furnace  rooms  of  the  factory  we  visited,  men  were  at 
work  on  an  order  of  globes  for  chandeliers.  In  making  this  kind 
of  glass,  where  many  colors  are  employed  and  the  designs  are 
unique,    each  man  must  be  an  artist. 

The  glass  cubes  for  mosaic  work  are  made  in  Murano  and 
quantities  of  them  are  sent  to  the  big  factory  of  Salviati,  on  the 
Grand  Canal,  where  we  stopped  on  our  return.  This  establish- 
ment furnished  the  mosaics  in  the  Columbus  Building,  Chicago, 
and  the  manager  referred  to  the  fact  with  great  pride.  A  design 
for  the  interior  of  the  dome  of  the  Guards'  Chapel,  London,  is 
now  being  executed. 

The  process  is  as  follows:  cubes  of  all  colors  are  placed  in 
pigeon-hole  cabinets  ready  tor  the  artist;  the  design  is  sketched  on 
heavy  paper,  and  upon  this  the  mosaic  is  set;  a  second  design  in 
water  colors  hangs,  for  reference,  in  front  of  the  workman,  who 
has  at  his  right  an  iron  wedge,  a  hammer,  and  a  pot  of  glue. 
He  selects  his  cube  and,  laying  it  on  the  iron  wedge,  knocks  off 
with  a  sharp-edged  hammer  a  piece  of  the  desired  size,  perhaps, 
a  square,  perhaps,  a  thin  wedge,  and  with  the  glue  fastens  the 
right  side  to  the  design,  in  the  proper  spot.  The  wrong  side  of 
the  mosaic  is  toward  the  artist.  When  it  is  cemented  upon  the 
wall    for  which    it  was    designed,    and    after    it   is    dr}-,    the    paper, 


262  VENICE 

covering  the  right  side,  is  soaked  off  with  warm  soapsuds,  and  the 
mosaic  appears.  The  backgrounds  are  generally  gold  and  are 
made  in  the  following  manner.  The  foundation  is  a  sheet  of  col- 
ored glass,  made  opaque  by  oxide  of  tin;  upon  this  the  gold  leaf 
is  laid  on,  flat,  and  covered  by  a  thin  la\-er  of  white,  transparent 
glass  which  protects  the  gold.  This  is  the  secret  of  the  preser- 
vation of  gold  mosaic.  When  hard,  this  sheet  of  gilt  is  cut  into 
dice,    and  set  in  the  usual  way. 

Near  Salviati's  is  the  old  Rezzonico  Palace,  now  occupied  by 
Barrett  Browning,  son  of  Robert  and  Elizabeth  Barrett  Browning. 
Here,  the  poet  died  in  1889,  and  a  memorial  tablet  is  affixed  to 
the  wall.  The  family  were  absent  and  the  custodian  permitted  us 
to  go  through  all  the  rooms.  There  were  pictures  and  busts  of 
the  gifted  father  and  mother  in  nearly  every  apartment.  We  had 
the  privilege  of  seeing  the  alcove  fitted  uj")  like  a  miniature  chapel, 
in  memor}^  of  Mrs.  Browning,  the  "Little  Portuguese,"  as  her 
husband  loved  to  call  her.  The  son  dabbles  both  in  painting  and 
sculpture;  one  of  his  pictures  is  a  good    portrait  of  his  father. 

This  morning,  we  spent  an  hour  studying  Titian's  "Assump- 
tion," and  "Presentation  in  the  Temple."  The  latter  portrays  the 
Virgin,  when  a  child,  going  up  the  steps  of  the  temple  to  meet 
the  priests.  Both  pictures  are  in  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  and 
alone  are  well  worth  the  trip  to  V^enice. 

From  the  Academy,  a  small  steamer  took  us  to  the  Lido,  one 
of  the  low  sand-hills  which  separate  the  lagoons  from  the  open 
sea.  It  has  been  changed  into  a  garden  spot,  with  a  fine  Casino 
and  bathing  houses.  Fishing  smacks  with  red  and  yellow  sails 
were  coming  from  Chioggia,  and  we  passed  quaint  shrines  placed 
on  poles  sticking  up  out  of  the  water,  before  which  the  gondolier 
says  his  Ave  Maria. 

The  island  of  San  Lazzaro,  a  piece  of  waste  land,  was  bought 
in  1 1 82  from  Seigneur  Leone  Paolini  by  the  Republic  of  Venice, 
for  a  lepers'  hospital,  and  named  after  St.  Lazarus,  the  patron 
saint  of  lepers.  When  the  disease  had  disappeared  from  this  jiart 
of  the  country,   the  island  was  abandoned. 

In  April,  1715,  an  Armenian  monk  named  Mekhithar,  accom- 
panied by  eleven  of  his  brethren,  came  to  Venice  to  seek  protection 


264  VENICE 

from  the  Turks.  The  RepubHc  ofifered  them,  as  an  asvkim,  this 
deserted  island  with  its  crumbhng  buildings.  The  monks  gladly 
accepted  it  and  set  to  work.  The  monastery  was  completed  by 
the  founder,  Mekhithar,  in  1 740,  and  a  printing  establishment  was 
started.  Mekhithar  was  a  model  of  industry,  and  the  books  brought 
out  were  calculated  to  promote  intellectuality  and  piety,  especially 
among  the  Armenians,  to  whom  instructive  works  were  sent.  The 
Abbot  died,  nine  years  later,  and  his  body  lies  at  the  foot  of  the 
high  altar  of  tlie  chapel.  From  that  time,  the  monks  took  the 
name  of  Mekhitharists. 

As  the  steel  prow  of  our  gondola  reached  the  marble  stairs 
leading  to  the  door  of  the  monastery,  a  porter  appeared  and 
politely  ushered  us  into  a  parlor  curiously  furnished  and  hung  with 
oil  paintings.  In  a  moment,  a  monk  with  an  intellectual  face  en- 
tered, and,  addressing  us  in  French,  asked  if  we  would  like  to  see 
the  monastery. 

He  first  led  us  into  the  museum,  where  there  is  a  mummy 
presented  by  the  Khedive  of  Egypt.  It  is  said  to  be  3,500  years 
old  and  lies  in  a  cedar  coffin  mclosed  in  glass.  The  bod}',  with 
the  exception  of  the  head,  is  wrapped  in  1,000  yds.  of  linen  cloth, 
decorated  on  the  outside  with  beadwork.  The  brain,  which  has 
been  removed  and  dried,  lies  upon  the  breast,  and  the  face  is  un- 
covered,   showing  the    teeth. 

At  a  table  in  the  library.  Lord  Byron,  the  poet,  studied  the 
Armenian  language;  our  guide  showed,  with  great  satisfaction,  his 
pen,  ink-stand,  knife  and  some  autograph  letters.  We  paused,  also, 
before  a  line  bust  of  the  founder. 

When  we  passed  out,  we  were  asked  to  write  our  names  in 
the  Visitors'  Book.  I  added,  in  the  space  headed  "  Remarks, "  the 
fact  that  I  was  connected  with  a  club  of  women  that  had  given 
its  mite  to  the  fund  raised  to  send  Miss  Clara  Barton  to  the  relief 
of  the  Armenians.  You  would  have  been  pleased  v/ith  the  result, 
I  am  sure.  The  monk's  face  glowed  with  pleasure  and  he  imme- 
diately asked  for  my  card;  then  he  stepped  to  a  door  and,  calling 
another  brother,  gave  an  order.  Presently,  a  tray  was  brought  in, 
ujion  which  were  two  daintv  little  glasses  containing  a  wonderful 
cordial    called  ^Intsic,    and  a  contection    made  of    red    rose   leaves. 


VF.XICE  265 

We  partook  of  these  delicacies  in  the  beautiful  cloistered  court, 
where  oleanders  and  roses  filled  the  air  with  their  perfume.  In 
the  center  is  a  fountain;  beside  it  grows  a  splendid  cedar,  brought 
from  Lebanon,   and  the  largest  magnolia  I  have  ever  seen. 

The  refectory  on  the  ground  floor  interested  us  very  much; 
there  are  nine  tables,  four  on  a  side,  and  at  the  upper  end,  one 
for  the  abbot.  They  looked  most  inviting,  covered  with  white 
cloths  and  partly  set  for  the  evening  meal.  The  monks  are  allowed 
to  have  meat,  vegetables  and  confectionery,  except  on  Friday  and 
Saturday,  when  only  fish  and  eggs  are  permitted.  It  is  the  cus- 
tom at  mealtime  to  say  grace  in  concert.  The  abbot  recites  a 
prayer,  some  one  of  the  scholars,  a  psalm;  then  all  repeat  the 
Lord's  Prayer,  after  which  the  meal  is  eaten  in  silence,  while  a 
novice  reads  a  bible  lesson  from  the  pulpit  placed  high  \x\)  on  one  side 
of  the  room.  When  the  repast  is  finished,  the  community  give 
thanks  and  retire,  the  reader  for  the  day  dining  alone  afterwards. 
Cleanliness  and  simplicity  abide  in  this  peaceful  retreat;  the  menial 
labor  is  performed    entirely  by  servants. 

In  the  printing  office,  fifteen  compositors,  printers  and  book- 
binders are  emploved.  Most  of  the  books  written  by  the  members 
of  the  order,  who  are  all  scholars,  are  printed  in  Armenian,  though 
several  works  have  been  brought  out  in  other  languages,  as  this 
establishment  possesses  the  -type  of  thirty-five  different  alphabets. 
A  literary  review  is  issued  every  three  months.  It  would  have 
done  you  good  to  see  the  expression  of  delight  which  brightened 
the  monk's  face  as  Mrs.  M.  casually  mentioned  that  the  Monarch 
Book  Company  had  recently  published  a  book  on  the  Armenian  cpies- 
tion,  then  sadden,  as  he  replied,  "Ah,  indeed!  Here  we  have  not 
that  privilege.      The  Turks  never  permit  us  to  publish  our  wrongs. " 

There  are  about  eighty  members  in  the  order,  but  thev  do 
not  all  live  at  San  Lazzaro.  Besides  their  college  in  Paris,  and 
the  one  in  Venice,  they  have  schools  in  Constantinople  and  Treb- 
izond.  Armenian  )ouths,  who  show  signs  of  talent,  are  intrusted 
to  their  care  and  receive  an  education  free  of  charge.  They  are 
destined,  upon  finishing  the  course,  which  covers  a  period  of 
twelve  years,  to  be  members  of  the  order  and,  in  consequence, 
teachers  of  their  people.      We  saw  a  band  of  about  thirtv  marching 


266  I'EXICE 

through  the  corridors,  headed  In'  the  instructors;  thev  ;dl  had  re- 
markably intelhgent  faces,  but  looked  very  sad;  doubtless,  on  account 
of  the  recent  sufferings  of  their  countrymen. 

Upon  our  departure,  we  were  presented  with  souvenirs  in  the 
shape  of  little,  colored  photographs  of  the  island,  and  a  small 
pamphlet,  giving  the  history  of  the  order,  accompanied  by  a  beau- 
tiful bouquet  of  roses.  I  can  assure  you  that  we  glided  away 
from  the  hospitable  doorwav  with  manv  pleasant  thoughts  of  the 
monks  of  San  Lazzaro. 

Before  leaving  Italy,  I  would  like  to  tell  you  more  of  the 
people.  When  one  stays  so  short  a  time  in  a  country  and  has  no 
friends  among  the  upper  classes,  the  best  that  one  can  do  is  to 
study  the  poor,  and  to  do  that,  it  is  necessary  to  mingle  with 
them.  While  travelling,  we  have  been  well  rewarded  for  the  slight 
unpleasantness  of  sitting  on  uncushioned  seats  and  beside  peasants 
with  grimy  hands  and  faces.  The  poor  are  seldom  tidy,  but,  in 
happy  contrast  to  their  neglect  of  personal  appearance,  they  are 
warm-hearted,  and  generous  to  the  stranger.  For  example,  one  old 
woman,  with  her  luncheon  tied  up  in  a  kerchief,  poked  over  the 
dry  bread  and  sausage  and  fished  out  two  little  cakes,  evidently 
a  luxury  to  her,  and  holding  them  out  triumphantly,  urged  us  to 
accept  them.  She  seemed  quite  disappointed  when  we,  in  our 
gentlest  manner,  assured  her  that  we  had  plenty  to  eat  in  our 
lunch-box.  Presently,  three  men,  one  old  and  lame,  and  a  young 
woman  entered  the  car;  it  was  charming  to  see  the  deference 
shown  to  the  older  man  of  the  party.  The  three  squeezed  them- 
selves with  others  into  one  seat,  in  order  that  he  of  the  crutches 
might  lie  down  at  full  length,  though,  judging  from  his  corpulence 
and  healthy  complexion,  he  was  quite  as  able  to  sit  up  as  the 
others. 

The  peasants  never  enter  a  car,  or  leave  it,  without  politely 
saluting  the  occupants,  and  always  seem  delighted  when  I  venture 
to  ask  questions,    in   Italian,  about  the  surrounding  country. 

We  have  been  in  the  city  four  blissful  days,  and  to-night  we 
return  to  Milan,  on  our  way  to  Switzerland.  It  is  a  short  time 
to  spend  in  Venice,    but  we  must  be  content. 

As   I   write,    I    can    hear  the  voices  of  a  band  of  singers    sere- 


VENICE  lb-] 

nading    some  one  in  a  house  near  by;  their  voices  are   delightfully 
rich  and  full. 

"I   send   my  heart   up   to   thee,  all   my 

heart 
In   this   my  singing. 
I'or  the  stars  help  me,  and  the  sea 

bears   part; 
The  very  night   is   clinging 
Closer  to  \'enice'  streets  to  leave  one 

space 
Above   me,  whence   thy  face 
May  light  my  joyous  heart  to  thee  its 

dwelling-place."  * 

You  think,  no  doubt,  that  the  blue,  moonlight  pictures  of  Venice 
are  an  exaggeration.  Let  me  emphasize  the  fact  that  on  all  clear 
nights  the  sky  is  a  pure  ultramarine  in  color,  and  that  the  same 
deep  blue  tints  the  water  and  the  broad  pavement  of  the  Piazza. 
At  this  moment,  a  flood  of  moonlight  is  bringing  out  every  detail 
of  sculpture  and  every  gold-imbedded  saint,  investing  them  with  a 
mystical  radiance  marvellous  to  behold. 


"I  stood  in  Venice,  on  the  Bridge  of  Sighs; 
A  palace  and  a  prison  on  each  hand: 
I  saw  from  out  the  wave  her  structures  rise 
As  from  the  stroke  of  the  enchanter's  wand: 
A  thousand  years  their  cloudy  wings  expand 
Around  me,  and  a  dying  Glory  smiles 
O'er  the  far  times,  when  many  a  subject  land 
Look'd  to  the  winged  Lion's  marble  piles, 
Where  Venice  sate  in  state,  throned  on  her  hundred  isles!  "f 

*  Robert  Browning, 
t  Lord  Byron. 


CHAPTER   XIX 

SWISS    CITIES    AND    MUNICH 

^  ,  ^,  y/i^  took  our  journe}'  from  Venice  to  Milan  l.))-  easy 
^w|^  '^^l^  ip  stages,  spending  a  night  in  the  old  city  of  Verona, 
where  Romeo  and  Juliet  lived,  loved  and  died  and 
where  Juliet's  tomb  is  shown  to  the  credulous.  Be- 
fore starting  for  Switzerland,  we  had  a  day  of 
complete  rest. 

The  lakes  of  northern  Italy  are  picturesque  in 
the  extreme,  the  most  noted  being  Maggiore  and 
Como.  The  district  abounds  in  birds  and  it  is  esti- 
mated that  6,000  songsters  are  killed  yearly  on  the  shores  of 
Maggiore,  alone.  Lake  Como  lies  in  a  hollow  in  the  mountains 
and  is  much  frequented  by  rich  Milanese,  who  build  their  summer 
homes  on  its  shores.  In  the  celebrated  Villa  Carlotta,  where  the 
beautiful  Charlotte,  daughter  of  Princess  Albert  of  Prussia  lived, 
is  Canova's  statue  of   "Cupid  and  P.syche." 

The  Alpine  valleys  are  the  most  unhealthful  sections  of  Italy. 
Goiter  and  a  skin  disease  are  common  among  the  peasants;  the 
latter  is  mainly  due  to  the  food  which  is,  generally,  polenta,  a 
mush  made  from  an  inferior  quality  of  maize. 

A  couple  of  American  ladies,  who  left  the  train  at  Como, 
amused  us,  greatly.  They  seemed  very  much  excited  and  vexed 
over  something,  and,  on  our  inquiring  if  we  could  be  of  any  assist- 
ance, confessed  that  they  were  bound  for  a  town  on  the  lake,  the 
name  of  which  they  could  not  for  the  lite  of  them  remember. 
They  had  lost  the  printed  directions  for  their  journey,  given  them 
by  a  ticket  agent.  While  they  stood  in  despair  watching  the 
omnibuses  depart  for  the  steamer  landing,  a  dapper  little  guide 
appeared  and,  in  a  trice,  suggested  the  forgotten  name.  The 
discomfited  pair  recognized  it,   at  once,   just    in    time   to  catch    the 

268 


270  Sll'/SS  CITIES  AND  MUNICH 

last  carriage.  If  one  ever  feels  like  an  abject  idiot,  it  is  when,  in 
a  strange  country,  the  foreign  word,  indispensable  at  the  nKMiient, 
is  forgotten. 

The  St.  Gotthard  railroad,  piercing  mountains,  spanning  gorges 
and  scaling  heights,  which  seem  almost  inaccessible,  connects  with 
many  important  lines  of  Germany,  Holland,  Belgium  and  France. 
The  great  tunnel  from  Airolo  to  Gdschenen,  generally  known  as 
the  St.  Gotthard,  is  nine  miles  in  length.  Its  construction  cost 
177  lives.  Every  tunnel  is  patrolled  by  guards  and  every  bridge 
is  frequently  inspected,  the  greatest  care  being  taken  to  make  the 
line    absolutely  safe. 

From  the  car  wmdow,  we  had  a  splendid  \iew  of  Bellinzona, 
the  Caj^ital  of  Canton  Ticino.  It  completely  Ijlocks  the  valley, 
and  the  hills  about  are  surmounted  by  feudal  castles,  the  grim 
walls  telling  their  own  story  of  ancient  warfare. 

Near  Biasca  is  the  pilgrim  church  of  St.  Petronilla,  and,  all 
the  way  up  the  mountain,  could  be  seen  little  shrines,  where  pil- 
grims halt,   on  their  way  to  the  cliurch. 

At  Airolo,  we  dashed  into  the  _\awning  mouth  of  the  great 
tunnel,  and,  during  the  next  twenty  minutes,  the  roar  of  the  loco- 
motive repeated  by  the  echoes  nearly  deafened  us.  Strange  as  it 
may  seem,  the  train  passed  under  the  village  of  Andermatt,  i,ooct 
ft.  above,  and  finallv  came  out  at  Goschenen,  where  we  found  our- 
selves in  Switzerland.  All  the  signs  were  in  German  and  every- 
where  the  proverbial    Swiss  cleanliness  was  apparent. 

The  famous  apple  scene  between  Gessler  and  William  'I  ell 
occurred  at  Altdorf,  on  this  line.  A  small  chapel  between  Im- 
mensee  and  Kiissnacht  marks  the  spot  where  the  tyrant  fell,  laid 
low  by  Tell's  unerring    arro\v. 

Lucerne  at  the  end  of  Lake  Lucerne,  a  so  known  as  the  Lake  of 
the  Four  Forest  Cantons,  was  our  first  stopping  place.  It  is  one 
of  the  most  popular  resorts  in  Switzerland,  but,  as  it  is  early  in 
the  season,  many  of  the  best  hotels  are  not  yet  open  and  there 
are  few  visitors.  Unfortunately,  no  arrangements  are  available,  as 
yet,  for  ascending  the  mountains,  antl  we  were  obliged  to  miss  the 
experience  of  going  up  tlie   Rigi. 

One  of  the  grandest  monuments  ever  erected   to  l)ra\-crv  is  the 


272 


Sir/SS  CITIES  AXD  MCXICH 


Lion  of  Lucerne,  designed  by  the  Danish  sculptor  Thorwaldsen  in 
commemoration  of  the  defense  of  the  Tuileries  by  the  Swiss  guards 
in  1792.  In  the  side  of  a  chff,  carved  in  the  living  rock,  is  a 
great  lion,  a  broken  spear  protruding  from  a  mortal  wound  in  his 
side.  His  head  has  fallen  on  his  right  paw,  which  lies  on  the 
Bourbon  shield,  and  forces  a  spear  against  the  upright  arms  of 
Switzerland.  Every  muscle  of  the  splendid  beast  is  relaxed,  yet 
each  shows  the  strength  he  possessed  before  receiving  the  fatal 
thrust.      Beneath   tlic  niche  where  the  lion  is  stretched,    is  a   Latin 


GLACIER    GARDEN,   LUCERNE 

inscription;  a  beautiful  fountain  plays  in  front,  and  shadows  are 
cast  upon  the  memorial  by  the  delicate  green  foliage  of  some  trees. 
We  came  away  feeling  as  if  we  had  seen  something  sacred;  a 
shrine,    before  which   homage  should  be  paid. 

Above  this  spot  is  the  Glacier  Garden,  with  the  mills  that 
have  been  discovered  since  the  beginning  of  this  century.  Glaciers 
are  immense  fields  of  ice  and  snow,  formed  in  the  region  of  per- 
petual snow,  which  move  slowly  down  into  the  valleys.  J.  D. 
Forbes  savs  that  "Each  portion  of  a  glacier  moves,  not  with  a 
constant  velocit\-,   but  in  a  continuous  manner.      *     *     *     The  ice 


2  74  SII'/S.S  CITIES  AXD  MUNICH 

in  the  middle  part  of  the  glacier  moves  much  faster  than  that  near 
the  sides  or  banks;  also  the  surface  moves  faster  than  the  bottom. 
Both  these  facts  obtam  in  the  motion  of  a  river,  in  consequence 
of  the  friction  of  the  fluid  on  its  banks  and  in  consequence  also  of 
that  internal  friction  of  the  fluid  which  constitutes  its  viscositv. 
The  glacier,  like  a  stream,  has  its  pools  and  its  rapids.  Where 
it  is  embayed  bv  rocks,  it  accumulates;  its  declivity  increases  and 
its  velocity,  at  the  same  time. "  Mr.  Forbes  found,  in  taking  ob- 
servations upon  glaciers,  that  some  melted  at  the  rate  of  17.4 
inches  in  25 J^  hrs. ,  in  the  month  of  June,  and  that  the  motion 
of  the  glacier  continues  even  in  winter. 

The  glacier  mills  are  probably  formed  by  the  moving  field  of 
ice  as  it  passes  over  a  small  boulder  lying  in  a  hollow  of  a  flat 
rock,  or  even  in  a  pool.  The  continual  grinding  of  the  glacier 
naturallv  causes  the  boulder  to  revolve  and,  in  time,  to  form  a 
spiral  hole  in  the  rock.  In  the  Glacier  Garden  there  are  several 
of  these  holes,  with  the  boulders  in  the  bottom,  dating  from  the 
glacial  period.* 

In  a  small  park  adjoining  are  some  mountain  chamois,  a  species 
of  antelope  with  bright  brown  eyes  and  the  blackest  of  horns.  A 
stripe  of  orange  down  the  nostrils  makes  a  sharp  and  altogether 
pleasing  contrast  in  color.  They  are  the  prettiest  little  creatures 
finable. 

One  morning,  we  took  the  steamer  for  Alpnach,  on  our  way 
to  Interlaken.  The  Lake  of  the  Four  Forest  Cantons  is  very 
irregular  in  outline,  and,  as  the  steamer  stops  at  many  places  on 
both  shores,  we  had  constantlv  changing  views  of  the  Rigi,  Pilatus 
and  the  solemn,    old  Stanserhorn. 

From  Alpnach  we  went  by  train  through  the  glorious  \-alley 
of  Obwalden  where  farms  were  laid  out  as  evenly  as  the  squares 
on  a  checkerboard.  The  housewives  of  the  pretty  little  chalets 
had  hung  their  feather  beds  and  pillows  out  to  air  on  the  balconies, 
where  the  morning  sun  was  shining  brightest.  Fat  cattle  were 
feeding  on  the  hillsides,  the  bell  tied  to  the  neck  of  each  cow 
giving  a  tinkle  that  was  delightfully  pastoral. 


*  Prehistoric. 


276  SIIV.SS  CITIES  AND  MUXICH 

The  lakes  of  Sarnen  and  Lungern  are  a  deep  green  reflecting 
the  fir-covered  mountains.  The  tender  green  of  the  young  shoots 
is  sharply  defined  against  the  older  and   darker  foliage. 

We  entered  the  Bernese  Oberland  b)'  the  Briinig  Pass,  whence 
the  road  to  Meiringen  and  Brienz  follows  the  river  Aare  in  the 
valley  below.  Its  banks  are  so  walled  with  stone,  and  its  course 
so  even  as  to  deceive  us  into  thinking  that  it  was  a  canal. 

At  the  Lake  of  Brienz  another  steamer  was  waiting  to  take 
us  to  Interlaken.  Gliding  along  on  the  limpid  waters  toward  the 
setting  sun,  we  neared  a  narrow  channel,  where  the  spurs  of  the 
rugged  mountains  almost  met.  Far  below  their  towering  peaks 
some  heavy  storm  clouds  had  gathered,  and  hung  over  the  opening, 
where  they  seemed  about  to  dash  their  weight  of  moisture  upon  us. 
All  at  once,  a  rift  appeared  in  the  clouds  and  the  sun  burst 
through,  lighting  up  the  verdure  on  our  left;  while  on  the  right, 
all  was  still  and  dark. 

Interlaken  lies  in  the  valley  between  the  Lakes  of  Thun  and 
Brienz.  "The  oldest  inhabitant"  loves  to  tell  a  legend  which 
runs  in  this  fashion: — God  ordered  the  Garden  of  Eden  removed 
from  the  earth  at  the  time  of  Adam's  fall.  As  his  angels  were 
passing  over  the  Alps  with  their  burden,  they  were  so  enchanted 
with  the  sight  of  the  beautiful,  white  Jungfrau  and  the  two  azure 
lakes  beneath,  that  they  could  not  resist  leaving  a  part  of  the 
garden  (Lauterbrunnen),  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  another, 
between  the  two  lakes.  The  people  named  this  grassy  plain, 
' Tnterlaken, '■  which  means  "between  the  lakes."  Here  the  air  is 
as  soft  and  balmy  as  that  of  a  semi-tropical  clime;  the  ramparts  of 
the  mountain  ranges  protect  the  valley  on  the  north  and  south, 
while  through  the  lake  openings  to  the  east  and  west,  a  fresh  cur- 
rent of  air  continually  circulates.  The  lower  slopes  of  the  moun- 
tains are  covered  with  beech  trees,  and  in  the  town  is  a  fine  avenue 
of  giant  walnuts,  the  Huheweg,  bordered  on  one  side  b}-  the  prin- 
cipal hotels,  which  face  the  Jungfrau,  standing  like  a  bride  clad 
all  in  white,  the  central  figure  in  the  landscape.  Upon  either  side, 
as  you  view  her  from  Interlaken,  are  two  black  peaks,  like  stern 
guardians,   as  forbidding  as  she  is  lovely. 

One  evening  we  walked  down  the  avenue  of  linden  and  chest- 


.siryss  CITIES  axd  Munich 


277 


nut  trees  that  leads  toward  the  Jungfrau.  On  both  sides  of  this 
lovers'  lane  are  broad  meadows  white  with  caraway.  About  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  Hoheweg,  we  entered  a  village  of  quaint 
chalets.  Some  of  them  were  veiled  by  purple  wistaria,  leaving  only 
space  enough  for  the  diamond-paned  windows  to  peep  out.  A 
house  built  in  1745  still  looked  strong  and  well  preserved;  an  in- 
scription ran  across  the  entire  front,  the  letters  being  cut  into  the 
wood  and  blackened.  We  noticed  that  the  roofs  were  weighted 
with    huge    stones    to  prevent    the    strong  winds,    which    sometimes 

sweep  the  valley,  from  raising 
them.  Around  the  town  pump, 
with  its  long  stone  trough,  the 
women  gather  to  wash  the 
family  linen,  beating  and  rins- 
ing the  garments,  and  chatter- 
ing, in  the  meantime,  like  mag- 
pies. Everything  about  the 
houses  had  a  tidy  appearance; 
the  great  wood  piles  spoke  of 
comfort  during  the  long  winters ; 
the  sleek  cows  and  the  fowls  in 
the  barnvards,  as  well  as  the 
flowering  fruit  trees,  betokened 
plenty  in  the  larder.  Mothers 
were  nursing  their  babies  on  the 
doorsteps,  and  some  little  boys, 
in  funny,  green  cloth  pinafores, 
caught  together  in  the  back  with 
a  brass  hook  and  chain,  were 
playing  in  the  road.  Follow- 
ing a  steep  path,  for  a  con- 
siderable distance,  we  finally 
reached  the  Hotel  Jungfraublick,  situated,  as  its  name  implies,  so 
as  to  command  a  fine  view  of  the  favorite  mountain.  While  we 
stood  there,  in  the  twilight,  gazing  over  the  parapet  at  her  beautv, 
the  young  wife  (Jungfrau)  slowly  drew  her  mantle  of  fleecy,  white 
clouds  about  her  and  retired  from  our  view  into  the  arms  of  Night. 


STAUBBACH    CASCADE 


278  .S7r/.S.S'  CITIES  AND  MUNICH 

Early  the  next  morning,  we  greeted  her,  rosy  and  fresh  from 
her  slumbers,  as  we  drove  from  Interlaken  through  the  smiling 
valley  of  Lauterbrunnen  to  the  town  of  the  same  name.  Near  the 
little  village  of  Wilderswyl,  some  woodmen  were  chopping  down 
trees  for  winter  fuel.  All  along  the  way,  on  the  right,  rise  steep 
mountains;  clear  streams  dash  down  from  their  summits  in  narrow 
cascades  over  rocks  made  smooth  and  shining  by  their  passage. 
By  means  of  channels  under  the  roadway  they  join  the  mad  I'iver 
Liitschine,  which  rushes  along  on  the  left.  Once,  a  goatherd  ran 
panting  up  the  road  after  us,  to  inquire  if  we  had  seen  two  stray 
pfoats,  and  we  were  able  to  inform  him  that  thev  were  clambering 
up  a  side  hill  just  aheaci,  their  l,)clls  making  music  in  the  stillness. 

I  do  not  marvel  at  the  superstitions  of  the  simple,  mountain 
folk.  Nature  speaks  to  them  in  voices  that  we  cannot  hear.  I  do 
not  wonder  at  their  belief  in  mountain  giants  and  dwarfs,  in 
tjuaint  tales  of  imaginary  creatures,  for  it  seemed  as  if  a  demon 
surely  possessed  the  wild  stream  that  leaped  against  the  boulders, 
gathering  new  strength   to  pursue  its  onward  course. 

Further  on,  coming  in  sight  of  a  quaint  halntation  almost 
hidden  bv  fruit  trees,  we  were  so  charmed,  that  we  decided  to 
visit  it.  Leaving  our  carriage  and  crossing  a  rickety  bridge  over 
the  river,  we  climbed  the  path  to  the  door.  A  pleasant-faced, 
elderly  woman,  who  spoke  very  good  French,  met  us  half  wa\-  and 
ushered  us  into  the  living  room.  The  bare  rafters  were  thitk  with 
soot  which  hung  in  festoons;  upon  a  stone  platform  was  a  small 
stove  where  a  fish  was  cooking  in  a  pot  of  boiling  fat.  We  in- 
voluntarily exclaimed  at  the  appetizing  odor;  whereupon,  our  hostess 
immediately  insisted  upon  our  eating  the  fish,  which,  with  an  ac- 
companiment of  warm  goat's  milk  and  fresh  bread,  proved  to  be 
delicious.  The  pretty,  blue-eyed  daughter  of  the  house  bustled 
about,  assisting  her  mother  to  do  the  honors,  and,  when  we  de- 
parted, presented  us  with  a  bouipift.  The  lather,  a  stalwart  son 
of  the  mountains,  seemed  very  much  delighted,  when,  on  reading 
our  cards,  he  found  we  were  from  America,  and  asked  all  sorts  of 
questions.  In  this  simple  home,  where  the  seats  were  wooden 
benches,  and  thc^  crockery,  modest  brown  and  blue  ware,  the  calico 
gowns  of    the  women    were    whole    and    clean,    and    their    hair  was 


Sir/SS  CITIES  AXD  MUXICII 


279 


neatly  arranged.  Tlie  Swiss  peasants  are  invariably  tidy  and  in- 
dustrious; a  pleasant  contrast  to  Italian  country  folk,  who  seem  to 
have  little  use  for   water  or   combs. 

An  air  of  antitjuitv  lingers  about  Thun,  wherr  modern  fashions 
have  not  yet  obliterated  all  traces  of  the  old-tmie  customs.  Satur- 
A-\y,  when  we  arrived,  was  market  day;  then,  the  people  come 
down  from  the  mountains  and  bargain  at  the  queer  little  shops 
underneath  the  sidewalk  of  the  upper  and  grander  ones.     Millinery 


PRiNCiPAL    STREET    IN    THUN 


is  displayed  under  one  awning  and,  perhaps  next  door,  is  the  meat 
market,  and  the  hardware  shop.  In  the  street,  women  stand  all 
day,    chopping  wood  which  they  sell  for  fuel. 

The  ri\-er  Aare  flows  through  the  center  of  the  town,  and  there 
is  space  only  for  a  narrow  sidewalk  between  the  houses  and  the 
water. 

High  above  the  town,  on  an  eminence,  towers  the  Castle  of 
Thun,  built  by  the  Counts  of  Kyburg  in  the  12th  century.  It  is 
a  massive,   square    building  with    four  towers    constructed  of   small 


2«0 


SJF/SS  CITIES  AND  MUNICH 


boulders  cemented  together;  the  foundation  walls  are  fifteen  feet 
thick.  Narrow  windows,  with  iron  gratings,  far  above  the  ground, 
give  it  a  feudal  aspect,  increased  by  a  drawbridge,  though  the  moat 
is  filled  up  and  grass-grown.  We  mounted  the  worn  stone  steps 
which    wind   up  to  the   third    story,  where  the  Great    Hall  extends 


CASTLE    OF   THUN 


across  the  main  part  of  the  castle.  Upon  its  walls  are  displayed 
the  armor,  escutcheons,  shields  and  lances  belonging  to  the  Counts 
of  Kyburg,  and  the  flags  won  in  battle.  You  would  admire  the 
carved  oaken  chests,  evidently  coffers  for  money,  with  combination 
locks,  the  mechanism  of  which  covers  the  entire  inside  of  the  lid. 
There  was  a  bed  inclosed  in  panelled  woodwork  with  doors  that 
locked,  and  lattice  windows  in  the  upper  part.  Within  its  inclosure 
the  old  lord  could  rest  secure  from  murderous  attacks,  and  fair 
dames  could  sleep  sweetly,  without  fear  of  a  creeping  Tarquin. 

After  examining   the    seals    and  mammoth    drinking  horns,    we 


.V/;7.S-.S-  CITIES  AND  MUNICH 


passed  through  a  trapdoor  and  down  a  stone  stairway  into  tlie 
kitchen  and  servants'  quarters,  below;  lower  still,  were  the  dun- 
geons. An  outer  building,  evidently  of  later  date,  is  now  used  as 
the  city  prison.  The  castle  commands  a  magnificent  view;  the 
Niesen,  7,763  ft.  in  height,  rising  upon  one  side,  the  Jura  range 
on  the  other,  Thun  being  below  in  the  valley  of    the  Aare. 

Adjacent  to  the  castle  are  the  old  church  and  cemetery,  the 
latter  with  its  tombstones  in  a  very  dilapidated  condition.  Just  as 
we  were  ascending  the  steps  of  the  church,  the  sacristan,  a  mel- 
ancholy old  fellow  in  a 
black  gown  and  cap,  in- 
formed us  that  nine  babies 
were  about  to  be  christ- 
ened. We  entered  and 
seated  ourselves  near  the 
font;  in  a  short  time,  the 
infants  appeared  in  the 
arms  of  their  peasant 
mothers.  The  women 
wore  the  costume  of  this 
district;  a  dark  skirt, 
black  velvet  bodice,  white 
chemisette  and  gay, 
striped  apron.  The  roll- 
ing collar  of  the  high 
bodice  was  embroidered 
with  silver;  filigree  chains 
fell  from  the  upper  edge 
of  the  bodice  under  the  arms,  somewhat  below  the  waist  line,  and 
were  fastened  behind  the  shoulders.  Each  child  was  incased  in  a 
linen  slip,  folded  over  the  feet  and  buttoned  to  the  waist  in  front. 
It  projected  in  the  back,  beyond  the  head,  in  a  stiff,  oval  piece 
edged  with  fluted  lace.  The  mothers  arranged  themselves  in  a  row 
on  one  side  of  the  font;  the  fathers,  on  the  other,  looking  ex- 
tremely uncomfortable,  as  if  they  were  unaccustomed  to  their  Sun- 
day clothes.  A  ceremony,  similar  to  the  Episcopalian,  followed. 
The  clergyman,    a    young    man    gowned    in    black,    was  a  trifle    too 


LAKE    OF    THUN 


282 


SJIVSS  CITIES  AND  MiW'ICH 


vigorous  in  dashing  the  water  on  the  first  cherub,  who  proceeded 
to  yell  its  disapproval;  after  that  incident,  he  dabbed  the  foreheads 
of  the  other  eight  as  gingerly  as  possible,  and  seemed  very  much 
relieved  when  the  last  mother  had  made  her  little  curtsy  and 
passed  on. 

The  hotel  where  we  stopped  was  unique.      Built  for  a  monas- 
tery in  the    1 2th    rcnturv,    it  has    been  an  inn    since   1319.      It  was 


A    SWiSS    MILKMAN 

of  stone,    with  broad  arches,    and  there  was  a  paved  court  for  car- 
riages in  the  center. 

The  beds  were  made  up  in  the  usual  Swiss  or  German  st}le. 
There  was  a  mattress  covered  with  a  sheet,  and,  above  it,  incased 
in  white  slips,  were  two  feather  lieds,  one  large  and  one  small;  the 
smaller,  too  large  for  one's  feet,  and  the  larger,  too  small  for  one's 
body.  Between  the  two,  we  spent  the  greater  part  of  the  night, 
scrambling  for  shelter  and  wishing  we  were  men,  so  that  we  might 
say  something  appropriate  to  the  occasion.  Once,  when  I  awoke 
Mrs.  M.  with  my  fussing,  she  suggested  that  I  might  fasten  ribbons 
to  the  two  feather  beds  and  tie  them  about  my  neck.  Of  course, 
we  had  a  tile  stove,  standing  white  and  tall;  so  like  a  tombstone 
in   the  darkness,    that,    waking  from  a    "catnap"  under  the  evasive 


A   WOMAN    OF   THUN 


284  Sff/SS  CITIES  AND  AfUXfCH 

coverlet,  one  is  startled  into  thinking  that  Gabriel  must  have  blown 
his  horn. 

As  we  journeyed  from  Thun  to  Berne,  on  Sunday  afternoon 
last,  we  encountered  many  peasants,  who  were  taking  little  pleasure 
trips.  It  was  refreshing  to  see  their  sinewy,  well-developed  figures 
and  clear  complexions.  The  Swiss,  though  not  handsome,  are  a 
thrifty  race  and  proverbially  honest.  We  became  so  accustomed  to 
bargaining  in  Ital}-,  that,  when  pricing  an  ornament  of  carved 
wood  in  a  shop  one  day,  I  asked  the  saleswoman  her  lowest  terms. 
She  seemed  quite  insulted,  and  said  that  they  did  not  have  two 
prices. 

The  capital  stands  on  a  peninsula  formed  by  the  river 
Aare,  and  its  situation  is  especially  beautiful,  tor  more  mountain 
ranges  are  visible  than  from  any  other  city  in  Switzerland.  It  is 
the  seat  of  a  university  and  boasts  fine  museums  and  libraries. 
Magnificent  avenues  of  chestnut,  maple  and  ash  trees  traverse  the 
old  part  of  Berne,  and  the  river  is  spanned  by  fine  bridges,  the 
most  notable  being  the  Nydeck  Bridge,  which  has  the  largest 
stone  arch  in  the  world,  with  a  span  of  164  ft.  The  second  stories 
of  the  shops  and  houses  are  supported  by  stone  arches  and  extend 
over  the  sidewalk.  Such  arcades  are  most  comfortable  on  hot  or 
wet  days,    though  the  shops  are  dark. 

Grotesque  fountains  are  characteristic  of  Berne,  the  most 
curious  of  them  being  the  "Bagpiper,"  the  "Ogre"  and  the  "Zah- 
ringen."  The  "Ogre"  represents  a  Jew  in  the  act  of  devouring  a 
fat  baby,  while  several  others  are  tucked  in  his  wallet;  this  fountain 
is  said  to  commemorate  the  murder  of  a  Christian  child,  in  1287. 
It  is  to  the  third,  dating  from  1542,  that  we  turned  with  the 
greatest  interest.  The  bear  is  the  heraldic  emblem  of  Berne,  so 
it  shows  Bruin  in  full  armor  with  shield,  sword  and  dagger,  the 
banner  of  Berthold  von  Ziihringen,  the  founder  of  the  city,  in  his 
right  paw-  The  design  of  the  bear  is  seen  everywhere  in  Berne; 
the  shops  abound  in  wooden  ones,  and  there  has  been  a  p.t  of 
live  bears  near  the   Nydeck  Bridge  since  the   15th  century. 

The  most  remarkable  of  the  old  city  gates  left  standing  is  the 
clock  tower,  with  a  calendar  clock.  "Whenever  it  strikes  the  hour 
a  procession  of  little  bears  comes  out  and  describes  a  circle  around 


286 


SWISS  CITIES  AXD  MUXICH 


an  old  man  in  a  sitting  posture,  holding  in  one  hand  a  sceptre 
and  in  the  other  an  hour-glass.  The  old  man  turns  the  hour-glass 
and   counts    with    his    sceptre    and,    I)v    opening    his    mouth,    every 


OGRE    FOUNTAIN,   BERN 

stroke  of  the  hour.  Before  the  hour  strikes  a  cock  crows  three  times; 
when  it  has  done  striking,  the  cock  crows  once  more.  Another 
little  wooden  man  rings  two  little  bells,  when  the  hour  is  going  to 
strike.  At  the  top  of  the  tower  are  the  striking-bells  inside  a 
helmet,  near  which  stands  the  Duke  of  Ziihringen  in  full  armour, 
striking  with  a  sceptre  the  hour." 

The  Museum  of  Natural  History  possesses  a  rare  collection  of 
eagles,  fierce  denizens  of  the  mountain  crags,  with  proudly  poised 
heads  and   powerful  talons.      There,   we  also  saw  the  stufied    bodv 


BAG    PIPER    FOUNTAIN,    BERN 


288 


SiriSS  CITIES  AND  MUNICH 


of  the  famous  St.  Bernard  dog,  Barry,  said  to  have  saved  the  lives 
of  at  least  forty  persons  lost  in  the  snow,  on  the  Great  St.  Bernard 
Pass.  He  is  a  fine  specimen,  with  short,  thick  hair  and  pointed 
nose,  and  still  wears  his  collar  of  spiked  iron.  When  in  Thun,  we 
went  to  see  a  number  of  these  dogs,  owned  by  a  wealthy  gentle- 
man.     They  were  worth  from  $500  to  $2,000,  each. 

In  the  cellar  of  the  old  Corn  House  is  the  great  wme  cask  that 
holds  35,200  qts.      It  is  decorated  with  the  Bernese  coat  of  arms, 

a  black  bear  with  red 
claws,  on  a  scarlet  ban- 
ner crossed  bv  a  strip  of 
gold.  In  the  year  1719, 
this  cellar  was  so  filled 
with  wine,  that  it  was 
said,  '  'Venice  is  built  on 
water,  but  Berne,  on 
wine. " 

We  visited  the   Fed- 
eral Council  Hall,  walk- 
^^'^'^'^  ing  down  the  long  corri- 

dor to  the  President's  offices;  then,  going  up  into  the  empty  Senate 
Chamber,  a  simply  furnished  hall,  the  arrangement  of  which  is  quite 
like  our  own. 

That  evening,  a  concert  was  given  in  the  Cathedral  of  St. 
Vincent,  where  there  is  one  of  the  most  wonderful  organs  that  it 
has  ever  been  my  privilege  to  hear.  The  church  was  dimly  lighted 
and,  as  the  deep,  throbbing  tones  of  the  instrument  echoed  through 
the  Gothic  arches,  my  soul  seemed  lifted  up  and  borne  away  on 
the  wings  of  sound,  coming  back  to  earth  onlv  when  the  last  note 
had  died  away. 

W^e  spent  the  afternoon  of  June  3rd  in  Zurich,  the  "Athens 
of  Switzerland, "  taking  a  carriage  in  order  to  see  something  of  the 
city,    before   leaving  on   the  evening  train   for  Munich. 

The  University  and  the  Polytechnic  School  are  situated  on  a 
steep  hill  overlooking  the  town.  We  sent  our  special  letter  to  Prof. 
Wolfer  of  the  Astronomical  Observatory,  and  received  a  cordial 
greeting.      In  asking  questions  about  American   men  of  science,    he 


SlIVSS  CITIES  AND  MUNICH 


289 


discovered  that  Allen  L.  Colton  of  the  Lick  Observatory,  was,  at 
one  time,  a  classmate  of  Mrs.  M.  They  had  an  enjoyable  chat 
about  their  mutual  friend,  whom  the  Swiss  scientist  comjilimented 
very  his^hly.  He  showed  us  several  rooms  in  the  building,  and 
then  conducted  us  up  to  the  dome  and  exhibited  the  sun  spots  to  be 
seen  at  that  hour;   three  were  reflected  upon  a  sheet  of  white  paper. 


-L    AT    ZURICH 

The  big  telescope  swings  in  the  dome,  which  revolves  at  the  pleasure 
of  the  astronomer. 

The  Historical  Museum  contains  an  interesting  collection  of 
relics  proving  that  a  race  of  lake  dwellers  existed  in  Switzerland, 
in  the  2nd  century  B.  C.  They  lived  in  thatched  cottages  built 
on  piles  in  the  shallow  waters  of  the  lakes,  and  rude  household 
utensils,  knives,  spears,  pins,  needles,  and  even  petrified  bread  have 
been  discovered  at  the  bottom  of  Lake  Constance  and  other  small 
bodies  of  fresh  water. 

Crossing  Lake  Constance,  we  travelled  all  night  through  cool 
forests  of  pine,  and  arrived  in  Munich,  the  capital  of  Bavaria,  at 
19 


SJF/SS  CITIES  AXn  MUNICH 


2gi 


six  this  morning.  It  seemed  so  queer  to  find  women  sweeping  the 
streets!  They  go  about  bareheaded  and  chatter  over  their  work,  as 
happily  as  it'  in  their  own    kitcliens. 

Naturally,  our  chief  interest  in  this  city  of  pictures,  lay  in  the 
art  collections  of  the  Old  and  the  New  Pinakothek.  *  There,  is  a 
portrait  of  Angelica  Kauti'mann,  f  painted  bv  herself.  At  twelve 
years  of  age,  she  had  bishops 
and  nobles  for  her  sitters,  and 
became  so  famous  as  a  painter, 
that  she  was  admitted  to  the 
Royal  Academy  of  London. 
From  1769  to  1782,  "she  was 
an  annual  exhibitor,  sending 
sometimes  as  many  as  seven 
pictures,  generally  classic  or  al- 
legorical subjects. "  '  'After  this 
she  produced  but  little,  and  in 
November,  1807,  she  died, "(at 
Rome,)  "being  honoured  by  a 
splendid  funeral  under  the  direc- 
tion of  Canova.  The  entire 
Academy  of  St.  Luke,  with 
numerous  ecclesiastics  and  \  irtu- 
osi,  followed  her  to  her  tomb  in 
S.  Andrea  delle  Frate,  and,  as 
at  the  burial  of  Raphael,  two 
of  her  best  pictures  were  carried 
in  procession."      "Winckelmann  b-R£E-  ^ 

refers  to  her  exceeding  popularity:"  "She  spoke  Italian  as  well  as 
German,  "he  says;  "and  she  also  expressed  herself  with  facility  in 
French  and  English, — one  result  of  the  last  named  accomplish- 
ment being  that  she  painted  all  the  English  visitors  to  the 
Eternal  City." 

There,  also,  is  Murillo's  painting  of  the  "Boys  Eating  Grapes," 


*  Picture  gallery. 

f  A  Swiss  painter,  1742-1807. 


PETER    PAUL    RUBENS 


1 

^^■j 

1 

^Av»l^* 

^    fi^^^^^^^l 

1 

^1^^^'^ 

4^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H 

L  ■  ^    >s» 

'    Vt^6^ 

1 

ANGELICA    KAUFFMAN 


294 


SUVSS  CITIES  AND  MUNICH 


and  a  splendid  collection  of  pictures  by  that  most  prolific  of  painters, 
Peter  Paul  Rubens,  the  Flemish  master,  born  in  Westphalia,  in 
1577.  When  he  reached  manhood,  he  was  not  only  possessed  of 
great  personal  attractions  and  an  excellent  education,  but  had  de- 
veloped his  natural  talents  to  a  surprising  degree.  No  less  than 
1,300  compositions  are  said  to  have  come  from  his  hands.  His 
first  wife  was  Isabella  Brandt;  his  second,  Helena  Fourmcnt;  both 


THE    HALL    OF    FAME,   MUNICH 

were  young  and  beautiful  and  figure  conspicuously  in  his  jiictures. 
Their  portraits  hang  in  the  Old  Pinakothek.  Rubens  died  in  1640, 
rich,  famous  and  in  the  fullness  of  his  powers.  Personally,  I  am 
not  an  admirer  of  the  style  of  Rubens;  his  figures  are  too  ffeshly 
and  often  too  unwieldy  to  be  beautiful,  but  his  drawing  and  color- 
ing are  marvellous. 

The  Hall  of  Fame,  built  in  the  classic  style,  is  one  of  the 
show  places  here.  It  was  intended  to  serve  as  a  gallery  for  the  statues 
and  portraits  of  the  great  men  of  the  country.  The  bronze  figure 
of  Bavaria,  sixty-two  feet  in  height,  stands  before  it,  and  dwarfs 
the  otherwise  beautiful  structure. 

Much  to  our  disappointment,  all  puljlic  buildings  were  closed 
to-day  after  one  o'clock.      However,  we  enjoyed  a  drive  to  Nymphen- 


BOY    EATiNG    GRAPES 


RUBENS'    SECOND    WIFE    AND    CHILD 


SIl'/SS  CITIES  AND  MUNICH 


297 


burg,  once  the  favorite  castle  of  Max  Joseph  I.  The  gardens  with 
their  lakes,  fountains  and  flowers  were  a  grateful  change  from  the 
round  of  galleries  and  museums. 

Several  regiments  of  cavalr)-  and    infantry  paraded  the  streets 
this  morning  and  were  stunning,  with  their  plumed  helmets;   nearly 


CASTLE    BERG 


ever}'  man  was    broad-chested,   erect,   and  had  a  complexion  to  be 
envied. 

In  Bavaria,  one  is  often  reminded  of  the  mad  King  Ludwig 
II.  Royal  palaces  with  splendid  parks  and  artificial  grottoes,  where 
the  extravagant  monarch  lived  at  different  times,  are  scattered  all 
over  the  kingdom.  He  committed  suicide  in  June,  1886,  by  drown- 
ing himself  in  the  Lake  of  Starnberg  in  front  of  Schloss  Berg. 
The  present  King  of  Bavaria  is  also  insane,  and  the  country  is 
ruled  by  a  regent,   greatly  beloved  by  the  people. 


CHAPTER   XX 


VIENNA   AND    BUDAPEST 


,/'.■ 


E  left  Munich  on  the  morning-  of  June  4th,  expecting, 
when  we  purchased  a  through  ticket  to  Vienna,  to 
reach  there  at  six  in  the  evening.  However,  after 
leaving  the  city,  we  discovered  that  we  had  been 
misinformed  and  should  not  arrive  until  ten.  Here 
was  a  "pretty  kettle  of  fish.  "  Our  German,  vocabu- 
lar\' is  hmited  to  such  phrases  as,  "Wieviel?"  "Ein 
Zimmer  mit  zwei  Betten, "  "Heisses  Wasser, "  and 
Frisches  Wasser."'^''  Nevertheless,  we  determined  to 
get  oft  at  some  way  station  and  trust  to  luck  in  getting  our  tickets 
vised,  f  rather  than  enter  a  large  city  after  nightfall. 

The  bill  of  fare  in  a  German  railroad  restaurant  is  generally 
limited  to  sausages,  rolls,  eggs  and  fruit.  We  had  partaken  of 
these  delicacies  until  our  very  souls  revolted.  So,  at  noon,  when 
we  stopped  for  luncheon,  and  our  searching  glances  could  find  nothing 
new  on  the  counter,  we  were  in  despair.  After  a  vain  att(>mpt,  in 
several  languages,  to  make  the  restaurant  keeper  understand  what 
we  wanted,  we  suddenly  spied  a  man  seated  at  one  of  the  tables, 
with  a  jilate  of  cold  ham  before  him.  Encouraged  b\'  Mrs.  M. 
and  without  stopping  to  think  ot  the  pcissible  result  of  such  an 
action,  I  walked  across  the  room  and,  with  a  deprecatory  "pardon 
me,"  took  the  plate  from  under  his  nose,  and  bore  it  in  triumph 
to  the  counter,  where  mine  host  was  made  to  understand  that  we 
wanted  the  same  edible.  I  then  returned  the  ham  to  its  gaping 
owner,  with  thanks.      Bv   that    time,  nearh'  every  one    in   the  room 


*"  How  much?"   "One  room  with  two   beds,"    "Hot  water,"  and  "  Fresh 

water." 

■j"  Indorsed  as  stop-over  tickets. 

298 


300 


VIENNA  AND  BUDAPEST 


was  interested  in  us,  and,  after  we  sat  down  to  our  coveted  meal, 
two  young  Tyrolese  addressed  us,  asking,  in  French,  if  they  could 
be  of  any  assistance;  at  the  same  time,  complimenting  us  on  our 
pluck. 

At  four  o'clock,  we  had  to  change  cars  at  the  small  village  of 
Amstetten;  so,  ''bag  and  baggage,"  we  left  the  train.  As  soon 
as  it  had    pulled    out  of    the    station,    I  approached  an  official  and 


asked  him  for  stop-over  tickets.  As  we  feared,  he  could  not  un- 
derstand. Just  then,  I  remembered  the  German  words,  "Morgen" 
(to-morrow)  and  "Gut"  (good).  Pointing  to  our  tickets,  and  then 
towards  the  fast  receding  train,  I  said  inquiringly,  "Gut,  Morgen?" 
A  bystander  comprehended,  sought  the  station  master  and  had  them 
properly  stamped.  Not  being  sure,  even  then,  that  all  was  right,  I 
asked  everybody  about  the  station,  if  the  tickets  were  "Gut, ''and 
they  all  laughed  and  said,  "Ja,  Ja!"  so,  at  length,  I  was  satisfied. 
We  passed  a  comfortable  night,  and,  next  morning,  proceeded 
on  our  journey.     At  Alt-Oetting,  where  there  is  a  noted  pilgrimage 


VIENNA  AND   BUDAPEST 


301 


church,  with  a  miraculous  picture  of  the  Virgin,  the  Austrian  gen- 
eral, Tilly,  a  hero  of  the  Thirty  Years'  War,  is  buried.  At  this 
station,  a  company  of  peasants  boarded  the  train.  No  sooner  were 
they  seated,  than   they  began  a  weird  chant,  the  soprano  and  tenor 


VOTIVE    CHURCH,  VIENNA 


voices  taking  up  the  first  strains,    followed    by  the  alto  and  basso; 
but  they  never  sang  in  chorus. 

The  country  through  which  we  travelled  touched  the  outskirts 
of  the  Bavarian  and  Bohemian  Forests,  where  the  pale  green  of 
the  larches  formed  a  high  light  against  the  deep  shadows  of  the  pines. 
The  farms  were  the  richest  we  have  seen.  The  grain  is  in  fine  con- 
dition, as  well  as  the  kitchen  gardens.  It  is  said  that  about  one- 
fifth  of  the  annual  yield  is  wheat;  one-fourth,  rye;  one-fourth,  oats; 
one-seventh,  maize;  one-seventh,  barley,  and  the  rest  buckwheat  and 
millet.      Nearly  all  the  farmhouses  were  thatched  with  straw.      The 


302 


VIENNA  AND  BUDAPEST 


men,  among  the  peasants  we  have  seen,  wear  soft  felt  hats  and 
green  vests;  the  women,  a  square  of  silk  over  their  heads,  knotted 
behind  the  ears,    with  the  ends  hanging  down. 

There  are  a  number  of  powerful  and  wealthy  religious  orders 
in  Austria.  A  Benedictine  Abbey  at  Melk  is  large  enough  to 
house  a  village.  There  are  214  windows  on  the  side  of  the  build- 
ing,  facing  the  station. 

As  we  approached  Vienna,  we  were  almost  appalled  by  its 
magnitude.  The  city  is  located  on  a  canal,  the  southern  arm  of 
the  Danube,  and  in  a  great  plain  encircled  by  far  away  mountains. 


I^omans    claimed    pos- 

Aurelius,    called     "the 

The    ' '  Com  iiromise  " 


PARLl.\:.iL;.r    LL,,_„  i.  jo,  V.LNtiA 

It  was  once  a  Celtic  colony,  but  the 
session  of  it  from  time  to  time.  Marcus 
noblest  of  pagans, "  died  within  its  walls, 
concluded  by  Austria  and  Hungary  in  1867  made  Budapest  the 
capital  of  the  eastern  half  of  the  empire  and,  with  Vienna,  an 
alternative  residence  of  the  court.  Ever  since,  the  reigning  sov- 
ereign has  been  designated  as  the  ' '  Emperor  of  Austria  and  King 
of   Hungary." 

In  driving  from  the  station  to  the  center  of  the  city,  we  were  im- 
pressed bv  the  strength  of  the  architecture,  the  breadth  and  cleanli- 
ness of  the  streets,  and,  moreover,  by  the  beauty  of  the  public 
fountains,  and  the  statues  that  are  to  be  found  at  almost  every  turn. 


MARIA    THERESA    MONUMENT 


304  VIENNA  AND  BUDAPEST 

After  engaging  rooms  at  the  Hotel  Wandl,  near  the  Graben,* 
we  drove  to  the  American  Consulate,  to  make  some  inquiries  about 
our  trip  into  Hungary.  The  consul,  Mr.  Judd,  is  very  pleasant 
and  attentive  to  his  countrymen.  He  had  secured  a  box  at  the 
Volks  Theater  for  that  evening,  to  entertain  a  gentleman  and  his 
wife  from  New  York,  and  asked  us  to  join  the  party;  an  invitation 
which  we  were  glad  to  accept.  He  then  escorted  us  to  the  office 
of  the  Cunard  Steamship  Co.,  and  assisted  in  securing  our  return 
passage  on  the   Umbria. 

That  day,  we  made  a  tour  of  the  great  Ring  Strasse,  a  cir- 
cular street  i86  ft.  wide.  With  the  Franz  Josef  quay,  it  surrounds 
the  inner  city  and  marks  the  line  of  the  old  ramparts.  From  an 
architectural  point  of  view,  the  Ring  Strasse  is,  perhaps,  the  finest 
street  in  Europe.  Here,  is  the  Gothic  Votive  Church,  erected  in 
commemoration  of  the  Emperor's  escape  from  assassination,  in 
1853;  the  University;  the  Hofburg  Theater;  the  Gothic  Town 
Hall,  costing  15,000,000  florins, f  and  the  magnificent  Houses  of 
Parliament.  The  latter  were  designed  in  the  Greek  style  I)_\-  Han- 
sen, whose  work  in  Athens  we  so  much  admired.  The  superb 
peristyle  is  supported  by  twenty-four  monoliths  of  marble  and 
adorned  with  a  frieze  representing  historical  events,  in  fresco.  Bronze 
quadrigae  \  and  marble  statues  complete  the  decorations  of  the 
wings. 

The  Maria  Theresa  Platz,  a  square  dedicated  to  Austria's 
illustrious  empress,  opens  upon  the  Ring  Strasse  and  presents  an 
imposing  sight.  In  the  center  is  her  bronze  and  marble  monument, 
forty-three  feet  in  height.  No  Austrian  sovereign  has  ever  been  so 
well  beloved  as  this  high-minded  woman,  who  reigned  fort3--one 
years.  Facing  the  Platz  are  the  Royal  Museums;  the  one  on  the 
west,  devoted  to  natural  history,  the  one  on  the  east,  to  art.  We 
are  pleased  to  see  so  many  American  specimens  in  the  Natural 
Histoi-y  Museum;  among  them  is  an  enormous  meteor  trom  Ten- 
nessee; also,  the  finest  collection  of  Aztec  idols  (one,  of  jade)    extant. 

*  Important  business  street. 

f  About  forty  cents. 

\  Chariot  drawn  by  four  horses  abreast. 


COUNTESS   WILCZEK-KINSKY 


3o6  VIENNA  AND  BUDAPEST 

The  ill-fated  Emperor  of  Mexico,  Maximilian,  was  an  Austrian  and, 
doubtless,  sent  home  many  Mexican  curios.  A  head-dress  of  pea- 
cock feathers,  once  worn  by  Montezuma,  is  on  exhibition.  It  is 
fully  four  feet  high,  and  made  of  fine,  eyeless  feathers,  the  head 
band  elaborately  decked  with  beaten  gold  disks.  In  the  crystal 
room  is  the  jewel-bouquet  that  Maria  Theresa  gave  to  her  husband, 
Francis  I.,  to  whom  she  bore  sixteen  children.  It  is  in  a  vase  of 
rock  crystal  and  is  valued  at  ^6,000.  There  are  lilies  and  daisies 
made  of  white  onyx,  with  diamond  centers;  pansies  of  amethysts; 
narcissus  of  agate;  forget-me-nots  of  turquoise;  wheat-ears  of  moon- 
stones with  diamond  tips  and  emerald  leaves,  and  rosebuds  of 
single,    pear-shaped    rubies. 

The  carriage  of  the  consul  was  at  our  hotel  at  a  quarter  before 
seven,  for  the  performance  in  Austrian  playhouses  begins  at  seven. 
The  New  Yorkers  were  charming,  and  we  enjoyed  "Little  Lord 
Fauntleroy, "  and,  also,  the  opportunity  to  see  some  of  the  beauti- 
ful women  of  Vienna,  who  occupied  the  boxes.  Since  the  burning 
of  the  Ring  Theater  in  1881,  when  400  lives  were  lost,  the  theaters 
in   Vienna  are  required  to  have  iron  drop  curtains. 

As  the  consul  had  been  so  thoughtful  as  to  procure  tickets  of 
admission  to  the  Royal  Treasury,  for  the  entire  part}',  we  started 
the  next  morning  for  the  Hofburg,  the  imperial  palace,  where  it  is 
situated.  The  Treasury  contains  objects  of  historic  interest,  the 
value  of  which  is  inestimable.  In  ancient  times,  kings  carried  their 
treasures  about  with  them,  sometimes,  even  to  war.  In  a  case  in 
the  first  room,  were  Charlemagne's  crown,  scepter  and  sword;  in 
another,  his  mantle  and  gloves  thickly  embroidered  with  gold  and 
seed  pearls.  This  monarch  is  said  to  have  been  nine  feet  tall,  and 
one  does  not  doubt  the  tale,  when  he  sees  the  proportions  of  this 
outfit.  Among  the  famous  relics  were  the  spear  of  St.  Maurice;  a 
eold  case,  said  to  contain  the  arm  bone  of  St.  Anne;  a  tooth  of 
John  the  Baptist,  and  a  superbly  jewelled  casket  inclosing  earth 
saturated  with  the  blood  of  St.  Stephen,  the  first  Christian  king 
of  Hungar)'.  Whenever  the  reigning  sovereign  desires  to  venerate 
it,  the  high  priest  opens  the  casket.  We  saw  the  silver  and  gold 
cradle  presented  by  France  to  Napoleon's  son,  and  the  crown  jewels, 
including  the  Austrian  imperial  diadems.      There  was  a  superb  col- 


VIENNA  AND  BUDAPEST 


307 


iAwsi  to  Maria  Theresa,  which  she  caused  to 


lection  of  jewels  belon 
be  deposited  in  this  treasury,  after  the  death  of  her  husband.  The 
set  of  emeralds  includes  a  watch  composed  of  a  single,  large  stone 
in  which  the  works  are  imbedded. 

Although  the  order  of    St.   Stephen  is  the    most    important  in 


ELISABETH,   EMPRESS   OF   AUSTRIA 


Austria,  that  of  the  Golden  Fleece  is  probably  the  most  celebrated 
in  the  world.  Its  emblem  is  a  lambskin  pendant,  the  head  and 
feet  of  the  animal  hanging  down  together,  as  it  is  fastened  by  the 
middle.  Above,  is  an  ornamental  device.  A  rich  collar,  which  we 
saw  in  the  treasury,    is  sometimes  worn  by  the  Order. 


ST.    STEPHEN'S    CATHEDRAL,    VIENNA 


3IO 


VIENNA  AND  BUDAPEST 


The  Romanesque  Cathedral  of  St.  Stephen  is  the  most  im- 
portant cliurch  in  Vienna ;  its  lofty  towers  and  tile  roof  are  promi- 
nent features  of  the  landscape.  On  the  north  wall  of  the  interior, 
is  a  curious  decoration  in  the  shape  of  a  stone  figure  of  the  archi- 


TOMB    OF    MARIA    CHRISTINA 


tect,     with    rule   and    compass    in    hand,    lookini^'    through    a    small 
window. 

In  contrast  to  the  grand  cathedral  is  the  humble  church  of  the 
Capuchin  monks,  where  most  of  the  royal  family  have  been  interred. 
Following  the  friar  in  charge  down  a  dark  stone  stairway,  we  entered 


/7A'.\.\./   .l.\D  BUDAPEST  311 

the  vaults  containing,-  the  double,  bronze  sarcophagus  of  Maria 
Theresa  and  her  husband,  Francis  I.  Upon  the  lid  are  their  life- 
size  effigies,  half  reclining  on  cushions  and  looking  directly  at  each 
other.  Near  by,  is  Marie  Louise,  Napoleon's  second  wife,  and  also, 
her  son.  We  bowed  our  heads,  for  a  moment,  beside  the  coffin  of 
poor  Maximilian,   who  was   "more  sinned  against  than  sinning." 

According  to  an  ancient  custom,  the  hearts  of  all  the  cMiiperors 
and  empresses,  since  Matthias,  are  inclosed  in  gold  and  sih-er  urns, 
which  are  kept  in  a  small  chapel  in  the  old  Augustine  Church. 
One  can  peep  into  the  little  room  through  iron  bars.  The  urns 
stand  in  rows  upon  a  raised  slab  of  stone,  like  jars  of  preserves  on 
a  pantry  shelf,  if  the  simile  is  allowable.  In  the  church  is  the 
celebrated  monument,  by  Canova,  in  honor  of  the  Archduchess 
Maria  Christina;  it  is  a  p}-ramid  of  white  marble,  with  the  door 
open.  A  procession  is  walking  up  the  broad  steps  and  entering 
the  door  of  the  tomb;  childhood,  youth  and  old  age  are  represented 
with  bent  heads  and  bearing  inverted  torches.  Opposite,  on  the 
right,    is  a  lion,    and  the  reclining  figure  ot  an  angel. 

The  greatest  musicians  the  world  has  ever  known  lie  in  Cen- 
tral Cemetery,  Vienna.  It  is  magnificently  kept,  and  has  hne 
avenues  of  locust  and  cypress  trees,  trimmed  to  form  alcoves  in 
which  monuments  are  placed.  As  we  approached  the  part  sacred 
to  music,  we  saw  a  triangular  grassplot  with  the  design  of  a  colossal 
harp,  in  ffowering  plants.  About  it  are  the  monuments  of  Mozart, 
Beethoven,  Schubert  and  Gluck.  The  painters  and  architects,  who 
have  been  an  honor  to  their  countr\',  are  also  buried  in  a  special 
plot. 

One  day  we  had  a  view  of  Vienna  from  the  top  of  the  Kalilen- 
berg,  a  mountain  overlooking  the  city.  The  little  steam  engine  on 
the  rack-and-pinior  line  juiUed  us  slowly  to  the  toji,  through  thick 
pine  and  beech  woods.  Mountain  flowers  bloomed  in  wildest  pro- 
fusion at  the  roadside.  The  view  from  the  hotel  veranda,  where 
we  had  our  dinner,  was  glorious,  embracing  the  spurs  of  the  Car- 
pathians, and  the  Styrian  Alps.  Beside  one  of  the  steep  footpaths 
of  the  Kahlenberg,  is  a  bust  of  Beethoven,  marking  the  spot  where 
the  master  often  rested.  With  his  reserved  temperament,  solitude 
was  a  boon.     The  picturesque  beauty  of  the  mountains  tamed  the 


VIENNA  AND  BUDAPEST  313 

fiery  spirit,  and,  under  their  spell,  the  musical  mysteries  of  that 
wondrous  brain  were  unra\elled.  The  world  enjoys  life  the  better, 
because  he  gave  it  so  much  that  is  harmonious  to  the  ear,  and  in 
the  words  of  Celia  Thaxter: — 

"If  God  speaks  anywhere,  in  any  voice. 
To  us  his  creatures,  surely  here  and  now 
We  hear  liiin,  while  the  great  chords  seem  to  bow 
Our  heads,  and  all  the  s\'niphony's  breathless 

noise 
Breaks  over  us,  with  challenge  to  our  souls' 
Beethoven's  music!     From  the  mountain  peaks 
The  strong,  divine,  compelling  thunder  rolls;" 

Baron  Nathaniel  von  Rothschild  lives  in  the  citv  in  a  fine  man- 
sion surrounded  bv  a  garden,  but  his  greenhouses  and  park  are  in 
Ddbling,  a  suburb.  He  charges  an  admission  fee  of  fifty  kreutzers, 
hall  a  florin,  tor  the  privilege  of  looking  at  his  treasures,  though 
he  is  rich  enough  to  let  all  the  world  take  a  penny  from  his  coffers. 
There  are  half  a  hundred  greenhouses,  the  fancy  ones  being  re- 
arranged, weekly.  On  the  porch  of  the  head  gardener's  house  are 
fastened  several  grotesque  tree  trunks,  one  grown  in  the  shape  of 
a  woman's  head,  another,  a  satyr's.  In  one  of  the  orchid  houses, 
we  saw  the  Aristolochia  Grandiflora,  fourteen  inches  in  length,  the 
largest  flower  known.  A  fern  house  contains  a  bed  of  moss  four 
feet  high  and  twenty  feet  square,  on  which  are  scattered  gloxinias, 
begonias  and  purple  violets.  Above  it  is  a  swinging  aquarium  with 
an  inner  globe  in  which  were  two  canaries  hopping  about  on  a 
twig,  while  a  goldfish  swam  between  their  glass  cage  and  the  outer 
globe.  As  there  is  little  air  in  the  inner  compartment,  the  birds 
are  only  kept  there  two  hours  at  a  time. 

In  the  fruit  houses  are  pots  containing  strawberry  plants,  on 
each  of  which  there  were  from  three  to  seven  berries,  some  of 
them  two  inches  in  diameter.  Luscious  peaches,  cherries  and  plums 
hung  from  dwarf  trees,  and  great  clusters  of  grapes  swung  from 
the  roof  and  tempted  us  to  break  the  tenth  commandment. 

A  steam  tram  took  us  to  Schonbrunn,  the  imperial  park  and 
castle,  once  the  hunting-lodge  of  the  Emperor  ^latthias.      Miles  of 


3i6 


VIENNA  AND  BUDAPEST 


forest  are  traversed  by  fine  roads,  and,  radiating  from  the  castle, 
are  broad  paths  flanked  by  close  cut  hedges,  with  here  and  there 
a  fountain  or  a  statue.  From  the  Gloriette,  a  fine  colonnade  on 
the  hill,  we  could  see  across  the  country  for  miles,  and  down  paths 
where  the  trees    are  trimmed  to  form  solid  walls  of  green. 

The  apartments  of  Maria  Theresa,  within  the  castle,  are  luxuri- 
ous; especially  the  room,  on  the  decorations  of  which  she  is  said 
to  have  spent  a  million  florins.  The  walls  and  ceiling  are  of  wood 
mosaic    set  with  delicate,   Japanese    paintings  on    porcelain.      Upon 


SUSPENSION    BRIDGE,  BUDAPEST 

the  same  floor  is  the  litde  room  once  occupied  by  Maria  Theresa's 
daughter,    Marie  Antoinette,   who  became  Queen  of   France. 

There  are  several  public  parks  in  the  center  of  Vienna,  and 
here,  in  the  evening,  people  congregate  to  drink  beer  or  coffee, 
and  listen  to  the  military  bands;  sections  of  these  parks  are  in- 
closed by  fences,  and  an  admission  fee  is  charged,  enabling  those 
of  the  upper  classes  to  be  by  themselves,  if  they  so  desire. 

On  the  morning  of  June  7th  we  left  Vienna,  by  steamer,  for 
Budapest.  The  sky  was  alternately  cloudy  and  bright,  affording 
opportunities  to  study  the  effects  of  light  and  shade  on  the 
"Beautiful   Blue  Danube."     At  the  Lobau,   a  wooded    island,    Na- 


VIENNA  AND  BUDAPEST  317 

poleon  crossed  the  Danube,  and  there  had  his  headquarters  during 
the  battle  of  Wagram.  On  we  ghded,  past  the  spurs  of  the  Little 
Carpathians,  with,  now  and  then,  a  ruined  castle  or  monastery  to 
relieve  the  monotony  of  the  landscape.  Late  in  the  day,  there 
burst  upon  our  sight  a  dazzling  vision,  an  ideal  city,  b;itlicd  in 
the  golden  glory  of  the  setting  sun.  On  the  slopes  to  our  right, 
was  Ofen,  more  commonly  known  as  Buda,  with  the  Fortress  and 
Royal  Palace;  on  the  left.  Pest;  while,  in  the  background,  rose 
the  old  citadel  of  Blocksberg.  Across  the  river  sweep  splendid 
bridges.  The  Suspension  Bridge,  with  its  stone  lions,  is  one 
of  the  largest  in  Europe.  All  were  bright  with  pennants,  and 
from  every  tower  and  turret  floated  the  red,  white  and  green  of 
Hungarv. 

As  the  steamer  touched  the  landing  below  the  Franz  Joseph 
quay,  we  could  see  gaily  dressed  throngs  upon  this  favorite  prom- 
enade. Lounging  against  trees  or  leaning  over  parapets,  eyeing 
their  more  fortunate  brethren,  were  peasants  from  the  outlying 
districts.  The  mothers  carried  their  babies  in  their  arms,  and  the 
lunch  bags  were  slung  over  the  shoulders  of  the  men.  The  latter 
wore  the  Magyar  skirt  of  white  cloth  with  a  round  jacket;  the 
women  were  clad  in  short,  full  skirts,  gold-embroidered  belts  and 
high-topped  boots,  and  bright-colored  kerchiefs  were  tied  over 
their  heads.  Old  women,  with  green,  earthen  pitchers  of  water, 
refreshed  the  thirsty,  in  return  for  a  small  coin.  All  were  in  a 
joyous  mood,  for,  on  the  morrow,  the}'  were  to  behold  the  great 
procession  celebrating  the  thousandth  anniversary  of  the  establish- 
ment of  their  kingdom. 

We  had  been  warned  again  and  again  that  we  could  not 
secure  accommodations  at  Budapest,  as  every  place  was  over- 
crowded, and  it  was  with  some  anxiet}'  that  we  disembarked  upon 
the  Franz  Joseph  quay,  at  the  very  doors  of  the  large  hotels. 
Going  at  once  to  the  Bristol,  we  were  informed  that  they  could 
not  give  us  a  bed,  as  even  their  billiard  rooms  were  engaged; 
however,  they  referred  us  to  a  private  house  near  by.  There,  we 
secured  a  comfortable  room  for  five  florins  per  day,  with  a  cheery 
familv  of  Hungarians,  and  considered  ourselves  the  luckiest  people 
abroad. 


3i8 


VIENNA  AND  BUDAPEST 


A  rain  laid  the  dust  during  the  night,  and  the  morning  of 
June  Sth  dawned  with  a  glad  burst  of  sunshine.  As  the  order  had 
gone  forth  that  no  one  would  be  allowed  to  cross  the  main  streets 
after  eight  o'clock,  we  were  in  our  seats,  on  one  of  the  temporary 
stands  erected  along  the  line  of  march,  promptly  at  that  hour, 
and  found  amusement  in  watching  the  crowds.  Men  carrying  racks 
of    beer    and    strings  of    pretzels    drove  a  thriving    trade.      A  Hun- 


FRANZ    JOSEPH    QUAY,   BUDAPEST 

garian  lady,  who  spoke  English,  sat  next  to  us  and  volunteered 
to  tell  us  the  particulars  about  the  parade.  At  ten  minutes  of 
eleven,  a  platoon  of  police  appeared,  clearing  the  way;  then,  down 
the  street  dashed  twelve  mounted  heralds,  in  blue  velvet,  blowing 
silver  trumpets.  Cheer  after  cheer  rent  the  air,  as  the  people  rose 
to  their  feet  to  salute  the  Master  of  Ceremonies. 

It  is  impossible  to  give  more  than  a  vague  idea  of  the  magnifi- 
cence of  the  costumes,  which,  characteristic  of  the  different  epochs 
during  the  past  thousand  years,  were  worn  by  noblemen  represent- 
ing the   provinces  of    Hungary.      Nearly   all    these    men    are    enor- 


VIENNA  AXD  nUDAPEST  319 

inouslv  rich  and  liad  spared  neither  pains  nor  money  in  their 
endeavors  to  make  the  details  complete.  There  were  eighty-seven 
companies,  each  led  by  the  nobles  who  ruled  over  the  province. 
Those  of  the  highest  rank  carried  the  ancient  battle  Hags.  The 
prevailing  costume  consisted  of  tight  trousers,  coat  of  hght-colored, 
embroidered  satin,  buttoned  to  the  throat,  and  high-topped  boots. 
A  velvet  coat,  bordered  with  costlv  furs,  hung  from  the  shoulders 
like  a  mantle,  the  same  fur  banding  the  high  turban.  The  belt, 
coat  buttons,  clasps,  aigrette  on  the  turban,  and  the  sword  hilt  were 
richly  jewelled.  Other  companies  wore  complete  suits  of  mail; 
some,  steel,  others,  gold,  with  mantle  and  saddlecloth  of  leopard 
skin.     All  the  horses  were  superbly  caparisoned. 

Following  the  horsemen,  came  splendid  coaches  containing 
dignitaries  of  the  church  and  state.  The  coachmen  and  the  foot- 
men,  who  stood  behind,  in  blue  and  silver  liveries  with  cocked  hats, 
reminded  us  of  the  grand  personages  of  fairy  tales. 

Next,  came  thirty-five  noblemen  ablaze  with  orders,  and  cos- 
tumed even  more  elegantly,  as  a  guard  of  honor  to  the  occupants 
of  twin  coaches  of  enamelled  redwood,  with  plate  glass  panels  and 
gold  trnnmings.  They  were  drawn  by  snow-white  horses  with  gold 
harness,  and  resplendent  outriders  accompanied  them.  In  the  first 
coach  was  the  Prime  Minister;  in  the  second,  upon  a  dais,  the 
Crown  of  Hungary.  How  the  people  shouted  when  they  beheld  it! 
remembering  that,  for  a  thousand  years,  the  clumsy,  jewelled  circlet 
with  its  bent  cross  had  pressed  the  brows  of  all  their  warrior  kings. 

The  stranger  looks  with  admiration  at  this  ancient,  yet  modern, 
metropolis.  In  spite  of  the  fact  that  the  streets  bear  unpronounce- 
able Magyar  names,  we  are  able  to  find  our  way  about,  and  though 
the  inhabitants  speak  a  language  strange  to  our  ears,  we  find  them 
courteous,  eminently  progressive,  and  fashionably  dressed.  An  un- 
derground railway  connects  the  most  important  street  with  the 
Exposition  grounds,  in  the  suburbs;  its  attractive  stations  are  walled 
with  cream-colored  tiles.  Broad,  well-kept  boulevards,  electric  cars 
and  double-decked  omnibuses,  as  well  as  the  absence  of  beggars, 
render  the  city  unusually  attractive. 

The  Exposition  is  unique.  In  the  center  of  the  grounds,  sur- 
rounded by  a  broad  lagoon  where    steam  launches  ply,   is  a  group 


320 


VIENNA  AND  BUDAPEST 


of  stone  buildings,  each,  a  copy  of  some  famous,  old  castle  in 
Hungary,  fitted  up  with  the  original  furniture,  even  family  portraits 
loaned  for  the  occasion.  In  the  great  halls  of  the  knights  are  battle- 
axes,  swords,  suits  of  armor,  seals  and  precious  documents.  In 
one  of  the  rooms,  a  table  was  set  for  a  state  dinner,  with  a  service 
owned  by  the  Esterhazy  family  who  are  one  of  the  most  powerful 


r/itaiifcili^iM "T.l^-o.; 


I-.I;LIAMENT    buildings,   BUDAPEST 

in  Hungary.  Upon  a  porcelain  centerpiece  about  three  inches  high, 
and  eighteen  feet  long,  were  finely  decorated  fruit  and  bonlx)n 
dishes. 

Among  the  exhibits  of  modern  workmanship,  was  an  ivor)^ 
pipe.  On  its  bowl,  sixteen  inches  in  length,  were  carved  the  heads 
of  the  Emperor  and  Empress.  Standing  upon  the  lid  of  the  bowl, 
was  the  figure  of  Hungaria  with  drawn  sword.  On  the  back,  con- 
necting  with  the  stem,  were  five  mounted  knights  in  full  regalia, 
the  very  spurs   on    their    heels    brought    out    in    the  most  delicate 


VIENNA  AND  BUDAPEST  321 

We  had  an  orange  ice  in  the  Royal  Kiosk  where  some  "swells" 
in  fine  uniionn,  with  clanking  swords,  were  conversing  with  a  number 
of  ladies,  every  one  of  them  beautiful  and  exc]uisitely  gowned. 
From  there,  we  walked  across  the  grounds  to  a  cheap  coffee-house 
to  see  the  humbler  folk.  The  women  wear  very  full  skirts  wliicli 
are  not  gored,  and,  conse(iuently,  form  a  thick  ridge  just  below 
the  waist  line.  They  walk  with  a  queer  little  wriggle  of  the  hips 
which  gives  them  an  odd  appearance. 

The  Hungarians  drink  quantities  of  plum  brand}-,  which  is  jnit 
u]-)  in  attractive  little  stone  jugs  and  sold  on  the  grounds.  How- 
ever, we  ha\-e  not  seen  an  intoxicated  or  disorderly  person  since 
WQ  came.  In  another  part  of  the  park  is  situated  Os  Budavara, 
or  Budapest  at  the  timi^  of  its  occupation  by  the  Turks.  Here, 
are  reproductions  of  the  old  walls,  mosques,  and  kiosks  with 
people  dressed  in  the  costumes  of  that  period.  Pretty  waitresses 
flit  about,  attending  to  the  needs  of  visitors  in  the  cafes.  Hun- 
garian gypsies  with  swarthy  skins  dance  the  czardas*  with  an 
abandon  known  onlv  to  these  wild,  free  children  of  the  mountain 
fastnesses. 

In  front  of  one  of  these  cafes,  where  the  scarlet  capes  and 
sashes  of  a  group  of  Servians  made  a  warm  dash  of  color  against 
the  brown  walls,  we  had  our  first  taste  of  gnlyds.  This  is  a  na- 
tional dish  composed  of  beef  cut  in  dice,  and  stewed  with  vegeta- 
bles and  fiaprika,  Hungarian  red  pepper.  Giilyas  is  delicious  and 
so  is  Eis-Kaffcc.  To  prepare  the  latter,  half  fill  a  small  goblet  with 
coffee  icecream;  then,  pour  in  as  much  sweetened,  whijiped  cream 
as  the  glass  will  hold.  When  you  eat  it,  thrust  }our  spoon  to  the 
bottom  of  the  goblet,  bring  the  coffee  cream  up  through  the 
whipped  cream,   close  your  eyes  and  imagine  yourself  in   Hungary. 

The  grand  tournament  took  place,  the  day  following  the  parade, 
in  a  large  field  adjacent  to  the  Exposition  grounds,  and  near  the 
Emperor's  exhiliit  ot  blooded  horses.  The  roval  tent,  between  the 
two  grand  stands,  was  pitched  by  means  of  halberds,  as  was  the 
custom  in  times  of  war,  the  edges  of  the  crimson  and  gold  canopy 
being  cut  in  battlements.      At  the  left  of  the  entrance,    a  pole  was 


*  National  dance  of  Hungary. 


THE    PRETTIEST    PEASANT    IN    HUNGARY 


VIENNA  AND  BUDAPEST 


323 


planted,  bearing  the  royal  escutcheon.  The  sides  of  the  tent  were 
open,  and,  as  we  sat  within  ti'n  feet  of  the  Court,  we  could  study 
the  worn  face  of  Emperor  Franz  Joseph,  that  "aristocrat  of  aristo- 
crats,"   and    the    delicate,    patrician    features    of    the    Princess  Ste- 


FRANZ    JOSEPH.   EMPEROR    OF    AUSTRIA 


phanie.  For  a  number  of  years,  the  Princess  has  represented  the 
Empress  at  Court.  The  Emperor  is  straight  as  an  arrow,  and  has 
a  quick,  nervous  manner.  He  wore  the  uniform  of  a  Hungarian 
general;  upon  his  breast  glittered  the  orders  of  the  Golden  Fleece, 
St.    Stephen,   and  the  Iron  Crown.      The  Empress,   once  so  beauti- 


324  VIENNA  AND  BUDAPEST 

ful  and  brilliant,  is  in  wretched  health,  and  has  lived  in  the  strictest 
seclusion  since  the  death  of  her  son,  the  Crown  Prince  Rudolph. 
The  members  of  the  Court  were  assembled  when  the  Emperor 
arrived,  and,  when  he  offered  his  hand,  each  pers(5n  knelt  upon 
one  knee  to  receive  his  salutation,  as  ceremoniously  as  if  in  a  draw- 
ingroom.  The  Court  is  in  mourning  for  the  brother  of  the  Emperor, 
who  died  recently,  and  the  ladies  presented  a  somber  contrast  to 
the  gaily  dressed  beauties  in  the    grand  stand. 

Only  noblemen  participated  in  the  tournament;  six  men  were 
entered  for  each  of  the  five  contests,  which  were  trials  of  skill  in 
riding.  As  the  Hungarians  are  noted  for  fine  horsemanship,  they 
made  a  splendid  appearance  as  they  galloped  across  the  field,  ex- 
actly at  the  time  appointed;  for  the  Emperor  is  punctual  to  a  second, 
and  no  one  dares  to  loiter  in  his  presence.  The  riders  drew  up 
before  their  sovereign  and  saluted;  then,  rode  to  the  judges'  stand,  to 
receive  orders.  There  was  some  excellent  hedge  and  ditch  jump- 
ing, and,  in  the  last  race,  the  horses  were  all  of  full  Arabian  blood. 

The  prizes  for  the  tournament  were  displayed  on  two  tables 
near  the  royal  tent.  There  were  two  in  monev;  one,  of  12,000 
florins,  the  other,  of  8,000  florins;  several  medals,  silver  cups  and 
tankards.  When  the  Princess  Stephanie  entered  her  carriage,  the 
applause  was  deafening,  for  this  Belgian  jirincess  has  won  man)- 
friends  in  Austria. 

We  spent  a  forenoon,  walking  about  the  grounds  of  the  For- 
tress, and  Royal  Palace,  but  were  unable  to  enter,  as  the  Court 
is  present.  Then  we  went  over  to  the  Matthias  Kirche,  a  church 
said  to  have  been  built  by  King  Bela  IV.  ;  here.  Emperor  Franz 
Joseph  and  Empress  Elisabeth  were  crowned,    in    1867. 

There  are  numerous  important  mineral  springs  in  Budapest; 
for  example,  the  Hunyady-Janos,  from  which  quantities  of  water 
are  exported  annually  to  America. 

Hungary  is  one  of  the  richest  countries  in  Europe,  possessing 
natural  resources  which  seem  inexhaustible.  There  are  fine  marble 
quarries,  as  well  as  gold,  silver,  copper  and  lead  mines.  The  opals 
of  Saros  are  celebrated   for  their  great  beauty. 

The  wines,  especially  the  tokay,  grown  on  the  slopes  of  volcanic 
mountains  near  Tokay,   are  of  the  rarest. 


VIENNA  AND  BUDAPEST 


325 


On  the  last  afternoon  of  our  stay,  we  took  the  boat  going  to 
the  island  called  "Margarethen  Insel, "  lying  between  Buda  and 
Pest;  it  has  been  converted  into  a  beautiful  park.  A  car  runs  from 
the  lower  end,  through  a  forest  of  trees  and  flowering  slirubs,  to 
the  upper,    where   hot  sulphur  water    from  an    artesian   well   falls  in 


— ^    j^~"'''^:ij.ij^*j 


'r^^:.:^ . 


MARGARET    ISLAND 

a  cascade  over  rocks,  into  the  Danube.  A  splendid  bath  house  is 
fully  equipped  for  the  needs  of  invalids,  and  there  are  many  line 
cottages  on  the  island. 

x\ll  that  night,  as  we  journeyed  back  to  Vienna,  we  inhaled 
the  fragrance  of  the  pines,  and,  at  each  station,  felt  a  new  longing 
to  turn  back  to  the  fascinating  land  of  the  Czardas. 


CHAPTER   XXI 

DRESDEN    AND    CARLSBAD 

'MID  the  hijj,h  bluffs  overlooking  the  Elbe,  on  the  way 
from  Vienna  to  Dresden,  are  some  rocks  called  the  "Bas- 
teifelsen,"  as  they  resemble  fortifications.  Prcttv,  little 
Jo.'^  steamers  ply  up  and  down  the  swift  stream,  for  this 
river,  unlike  the  Danube,  has  a  rapid  current.  Miles 
)f  hop  gardens  cover  the  lowlands,  their  poles  so  arranged 
.,^  that  they  look  like  regiments  of  soldiers,  with  bayonets  upright. 
Dresden,  the  capital  of  the  Kingdom  of  Saxony,  lies  in 
the  fertile  valley  of  the  Elbe,  and  has  been  the  residence  of  the 
Albertine  line  of  kings,  since  14S5.  The  royal  palace,  (jn  the 
Schloss  Platz,  is  the  usual  residence  of  the  reigning  sovereigns, 
but,  as  King  Albert  is  in  very  poor  health,  at  present,  he  lives  at 
his  country  seat,  not  far  from  the  city,  where  he  finds  perfect 
quiet.  As  the  law  prohibits  the  erection  of  any  building  higher 
than  the  street  is  wide,  and  there  are  many  beautiful  lawns,  the 
city  is  attractive  to  the  eye.  Among  the  fine  bridges  which  connect 
the  two  sections  of  the  city  is  the  Augustus  Bridge  built  in  1222. 
Early  on  the  first  evenmg  after  our  arrival,  while  walking 
about  the  streets  near  our  hotel,  we  discovered  a  poster  stating 
that  Eduard  Stiauss  was  to  give  a  concert  at  Lincke'sches  Bad, 
a  .summer  garden  in  the  suburbs.  As  we  had  missed  hearing  him 
in  Vienna,  we  immediately  took  upper  seats  in  a  double-decked 
street  car,  and  rode  out  there,  arriving  in  time  to  hear  the  last 
three  numbers  of  the  program,  the  "Beautiful  Blue  Danube" 
being  one.  I  had  heard  the  Strauss  Orchestra  in  America,  but  it 
was  not  quite  the  same  as  here;  it  needed  the  garden,  the  tables, 
the  German  people  shouting  out  their  approval  after  each  number, 
and,  above  all,  the  omnipresent  beer  mug  to  make  it  seem  real 
' '  Straussy. "     The    very  hairs    of    the    little    Viennese    seemed    to 

326 


328  DRESDEN  AND  CARLSBAD 

dance,  as,  with  violin  in  hand,  he  conducted  his  orchestra  and 
brought  out,  with  the  touch  of  his  bow,  the  strains  of  that  waltz, 
ahva^■s  new,    ahvays  dear  to  the  German  heart. 

The  best  pictures  of  this  Saxon  art  center  are  collected  in 
the  extensive  Zwinger  gallery.  The  l)uilding  incircles  an  immense 
court  filled  with  shrubbery,  flowers  and  statuary.  Nearlv  all  the 
great  masters  are  represented  here,  and  we  especiallv  admired  a 
painting  of  the    "Children  of  Charles  I.,"  by  Van  Dyck. 

In  a  room  by  itself  is  the  celebrated  "  Sistine  Madonna," 
pronounced  by  many  to  be  the  finest  oil  painting  in  the  world.  The 
earnest  eyes  of  the  Virgin  looked  down  upon  us  with  an  expression 
full  of  sympathy  and  tenderness  embracing  all  suft'ering  humanity; 
the  very  apotheosis  of  motherhood.  From  the  graceful  form  radiate 
strength,  purity  and  love.  The  very  colors  in  the  draperies  are 
imbued  with  a  subtle  power,  that  rivets  the  attention  of  the  be- 
holder, and  haunts  him,  ever  after.  There  is  an  appeal  in  the 
eyes  of  the  Christ  child,  who  seems  to  gaze  far  beyond  this  world 
into  the  next. 

In  a  section  devoted  to  modern  art,  there  is  a  wonderful 
picture  called  "Summer,"  by  Makart.  The  central  figure  is  a  lovely 
creature  reclining  on  a  silken  couch  beneath  a  crimson  canopy; 
she  is  playing  with  butterflies,  her  laughing,  upturned  face  dis- 
playing, through  the  lines  of  scarlet  lips,  the  pearly  teeth.  Other 
beautiful  forms  rise  from  the  water  on  the  left,  where  they  have 
been  bathing.  The  canvas  seems  to  glow  with  the  peculiar  bril- 
liancy for  which  the  Austiian   master  was  noted. 

The  eight  rooms  of  the  Green  Vaults,  in  the  royal  palace, 
contain  over  3,000  works  of  art  in  gold,  silver,  precious  stones,  and 
other  materials.  Here,  are  kept  the  crown  jewels  of  Saxony; 
among  them,  the  famous  green  diamond;  also,  the  regalia  of  Au- 
gustus, King  of  Poland;  swords  of  famous  warriors,  and  cups  t)t 
amber.  There  is  a  jewel  case  in  the  shape  of  a  roc,  a  mythical 
])ird  of  "The  Arabian  Nights,"  carved  from  a  single  piece  of 
jasper.  We  saw,  too,  a  rock  crystal  goblet  once  owned  b_\'  Alartin 
Luther. 

On  the  second  evening  we  heard  the  opera  of  the  "Trumpeter 
of  Sackingen,"  at  the  superbly  decorated  Royal  Opera  House.     We 


THE    51STINE    MADONNA 


DRESDEN  AND  CARLSBAD 


331 


had  often  been  told  that  students  of  music,  attending  the  opera  in 
Germany,  sat  in  the  upper  balconies;  so,  we  procured  tickets  ad- 
mitting us  to  that  part  of  the  house.  Our  seats  were  in  the  midst 
of  a  bevy  of  bright,  voung  girls  in  shirt  waists  and  dark  skirts.  They 
seemed  acquainted  with  one  another,  and,  though  they  conversed 
between  the  acts,  or 
went  into  the  little 
restaurant  connected 
with  the  gallery,  as 
soon  as  the  orchestra 
began  to  pla}-,  they 
were  all  attention. 
The  music  and  words 
appeared  to  be  fa- 
miliar to  them,  and, 
as  the  plot  unfolded, 
one  interpreted  it  for 
us.  The  opera  is 
founded  on  a  poem 
written  by  Scheftel, 
the  much  beloved 
German  poet,  and 
the  scene  is  laid  in 
the  Black  Forest. 
The  heroine  is  slen- 
der, and  a  beautiful 
blonde;  the  hero, 
dark,  strong  and  brave,  played  the  trumpet  magnificenth'.  A  weak 
villain  and  a  stern  papa  give  the  trumpeter  numerous  opportunities 
to  show  off,  and  the  fair  maiden  to  faint.  Nevertheless,  every- 
thing ends  happily,  as  it  invariably  does  in  a  German  story.  We 
had  to  take  a  carriage  to  the  theater,  because  of  a  heavy  rain, 
though  we  returned  in  a  street  car;  strange  as  it  seems,  our  ex- 
penses for  the  evening  were  only  thirty-nine  cents  each. 

You  will  be  shocked  when  I  tell  \ou  that  we  came  very  near 
being  arrested,  the  day  we  went  to  Meissen  to  visit  the  Royal  Pot- 
teries,  and  the  feudal  castle  of  Albrechtsburg.      Ever  since  leaving 


CASKET    OF    JASPER 


334 


DRESDEN  AMD  CARLSBAD 


home,  we  have  been  collecting  specimens  for  our  herbariums,  and, 
as  we  rode  along,  remarked  the  beauty  of  the  blue  cornflowers  by 
the  wayside.      Once,  the  train  came  to  a  standstill  between  stations, 

and  beside  a  most  in- 
\iting  bunch  of  the  cov- 
eted posies.  At  my  sug- 
gestion, Mrs.  M.  jumped 
out  and  gathered  a  hand- 
ful, while  I  held  the  door 
open.  The  guard  saw  us 
and  reported  the  act  at 
the  next  station,  where 
we  received  a  terrific 
scolding  in  German,  of 
which  we  did  not  under- 
stand a  syllable.  Our 
utter  amazement  and 
"Ich  vcrstehe  nicht"* 
drove  the  fat,  blustering 
official  nearlv  frantic. 
He  raved  up  and  down 
tlie  platform,  while  we 
simply  stood  and  stared 
at  him,  with  an  air  of 
injured  innocence,  hold- 
ing up  the  poor  little 
nosegay  for  inspection. 
At  last,  we  were  allowed 
to  depart.  On  our  re- 
turn to  Dresden,  we 
learned    that  to  get  out 

THE   TRUMPETER    OF    SACK.NGEN  ^f     ^     ^j.^^|,^      bctWeOn      Sta- 

tions,  in  Germany,  is  an  offense  punishable  b)'  fine  or  imjirison- 
ment;  so  you  see  that  we  had    a  narrow  escape. 

Dresden  china!     What  magic  in  the    words!     How  they  smack 


*  "I  do  not  understand." 


336 


DRESDEN  AND  CARLSBAD 


of  the  court  and  banquet  halls,  calling  up  pictures  of  powdered 
dames  and  beribboned  gallants!  The  secret  of  making  true  porce- 
lain was  discovered    in    Germany,   in  the    i8th    century,    by  a    man 

named  Bottcher. 
Its  manufacture 
was  carried  on  for 
about  fifty  years, 
in  the  strictest 
secrecy,  for  the 
work  m  e  n  w  ere 
practicalh'  [)rison- 
ers.  The  history 
of  the  Dresden 
potteries  is  divided 
into  three  periods. 
During  the  first, 
or  king's  period,  all 
the  best  specimens 
were  reserved  for 
tlie  king's  own  use 
and  for  ro\al  gilts. 
The  trade-mark 
burned  into  the 
china  was,  at  that 
time,  the  mono- 
gram of  the  king; 
later,  two  swords 
crossed  were  sul)- 
stituted  for  it,  rep- 
resenting those 
worn  by  the  Elect- 
or of  Saxony.  In  1796,  a  new  director,  named  Marceloni,  placed 
a  star  between  the  two  swords;  the  porcelain  was  then  sold  to 
the  public,  and  has  never  since  reached  its  old-time  perfection. 
Authorities  upon  the  subject  of  Dresden  china  say  that  outside 
dealers  can  now  buv  the  ware  and  decorate  it  themselves;  such 
pieces  are    known    b\'  a  line  cut    in    the   glaze    above  the  two  blue 


ALBERT,   KING    OF    SAXONY 


DRESDEN  AND  CAKLSn.lD 


337 


swords.  The  Dresden  hard  paste*  is  considered  sujierior  to  ihc 
Sevres,  though  the  <:;round  colors,  especially  the  l)hu',  arc  liner  in 
the  French  porcelain. 

After  Jiaying  a  tee  of  one  mark.f  we  were  furnished  with  an 
English-speaking- 
guide,  who  con- 
ducted us  through 
the  rooms  where 
750  men  were  at 
work.  We  saw 
them  kneading  the 
paste,  which  looked 
like  dough,  to  get 
all  the  air  out. 
Then,  rolling  it  in- 
to sheets,  and  hiy- 
i n g  it  o \- e r  t h e 
molds,  they  cut  off 
the  edge,  as  a  cook 
would  trim  pie 
crust.  In  other 
instances,  the}' 
shaped  the  dish 
with  the  aid  of  a 
potter's  wheel.  At 
length,  all  were 
put  into  fire  brick 
cases  and  placed 
in  a  big  kiln,  or 
oven,  to  bake.  It 
takes  one  day  to 
fire  the  china, 'and  ""o^*'  '2'^"''  °^  5*'<°'^^ 

another,  for  the  oven  to  cool,  before  the  contents  can   be  removed. 
If  an  underglazed  pattern  is  to  be  used,   after  the  first  firing,  it  is 


*  Made  of  kaolin,  a  cla}'  found  at  .\ue  in  Saxony. 
■j"  About  twenty-five  cents. 


338  DRESDEN  AND  CARLSBAD 

jiainted  on  the  dish  which  is,  subsequently,  dipped  in  a  liquid  paste, 
or  glaze,  and  iircd  again.  If  the  underglazed  decoration  is  not 
used,  then  the  design  is  painted  on  top  of  the  glaze,  or  second  firing. 
During  the  process  of  decoration,  there  are  several  more  firings. 
Some  of  the  men  were  modelling  ffowers  for  candelabra.  They 
work  exactl}'  as  if  making  wax  flowers,  cutting  out  the  petals  from 
the  sheets  of  dough,  by  a  pattern,  and  then  pinching  them  into 
shape  with  their  fingers,  and  affixing  them  to  the  standard,  pre- 
paratory to  firing  and  coloring.  The  best  artists  are  employed  to 
model  the  figures  and  paint  the  elaborate  designs. 

Until  i<S63,  the  potteries  were  connected  witli  the  castle  of 
Albrechtsburg.  Within  the  ramparts  is  a  small  village.  We  drove 
up  the  long,  winding  road  and  under  the  liuge  gateway,  where,  in 
days  gone  by,  the  golden-haired  bride  of  Albert  I.  rode  on  a  pal- 
frey beside  her  royal  lover.  The  Saxon  dames  were  of  heroic  mold 
and,  once,  when  the  castle  was  attacked,  hurled  down  great  stones 
with  their  strong  arms,  upon  the  heads  of  the  besiegers,  below. 
There  are  many  rare  specimens  of  Royal  Dresden  in  the  cabinets 
of  the  great  dining-hall,  where  the  initials  of  King  Albert  and 
Queen  Carola,  the  present  rulers,  are  carved  in  the  high  backs  ot 
the  chairs. 

On  the  way  from  Dresden  to  Carlsbad,  the  well-known  resort, 
where  we  are  now  stopping,  we  began  to  worry  a  little  about  the 
condition  of  our  travelling  suits,  which  we  had  worn  ever  since 
leaving  America.  However,  we  find  that  we  can  walk  about  among 
the  fashionable  folk,  without  attracting  the  least  attention.  The 
guests  at  the  hotels  are  chiefly  Russian  and  French;  at  every  turn, 
one  meets  people  twisted  with  rheumatism  or  in  the  last  stages  of 
consum|)ti()n. 

The  mineral  springs,  of  which  there  are  now  nineteen,  were 
discovered  in  the  14th  century  by  Charles  IV.,  while  hunting; 
hence,  the  name,  Carlsbad, — Charles'  Bath, — although,  according 
to  the  records,  they  were  known  a  hundred  years  earlier.  The 
chief  ingredients  of  the  waters  are  sulphate  of  soda,  carbcmate  of 
soda,  and  salt.  They  rise  from  a  very  hard  kind  of  rock  near  the 
Tepl  river,  the  hot  water  gushing  through  the  broken  crust.  The 
main  part  of    the    town  is  built    on    this    crust,   and    it    is  believed 


340 


DRESDEN  AND  CARLSBAD 


that,  beneath  it,  there  is  a  vast  reservoir  from  which  the  sprincjs 
flow.  The  steam  escapes  through  holes  that  have  been  made  in 
the  rock,  and,  if  they  are  not  freed  from  the  salt  deposits,  peri- 
ochcally,   new  openings  are  forced. 

The  largest    and    most    popular   spring  is  the    Sprudel,    which, 
at  times,   shoots  up  to  a  height  of  thirteen  feet,  at  the  rate  of  450 


SPRUDEL   COLONNADE,  CARLSBAD 

gallons  per  minute.    It  is  within  an  iron  colonnade  covered  with  glass. 

At  all  the  springs,  the  invalids  begin  to  congregate  as  early  as 
four  o'clock  in  the  morning,  their  cujis  hung  from  leather  straps 
over  their  shoulders.  Good  bands  play  from  six  to  eight,  the 
bathing  hours.  Every  bather  has  a  ticket  and  time  card  and,  if 
more  than  ten  minutes  late,  he  loses  his  bath.  The  water  is 
pleasant  to  the  skin  as  well  as  to  the  palate. 

Last  night,  we  attended  a  ball,  as  spectators,  at  the  Curhaus.  * 
The  dining-room  opens  from  the  ballroom  and,  as  we  went  in  to 
dinner  about  eight  o'clock,  we  were  able  to  enjoy  the  dancing. 
There  were  many  beautiful  girls,   and    one,    a  Russian,   was  such  a 

*A  club  house  open  to  visitors. 


DRESDEN  AND  CARLSBAD 


341 


picture  tliat  we  gazed  at  her,  most  of  the  time.  Iler  jet-bhuk  liair 
was  arranged  in  wide,  ilat  braids,  and  brougiit  abt)ut  her  head, 
from  the  nape  of  the  nc^ck  to  a  peak  in  front,  in  the  exaet  form 
of  the  Russian  headdress.  She  was  so  vivacious  and  sparkhng  as 
to  keep  a  dozen  officers, — mihtary  men  predominated, — waiting  for 
a  dance,  and  it  was  amusing  to  see  the  complacency  of  her  chaper- 
on, as  one  after  another  claimed  the  belle's  attention.  The  pro- 
gram was  composed  principally  of  waltzes  and  two-steps,  though 
there  was  one  set  where  the  couples  formed  in  two  rows  down  the 
hall,    after  the  fashion  of  the  old  contra-danccs. 

We  have  not  seen  a  single  peasant,  in  Bohemia,  wearing  the 
entire,  national  costume;  only,  now  and  then,  a  bright-colored  dress, 
and  handkerchief  over  the  head.  Slowly  but  surely,  the  picturesque 
costumes  are,  everywhere,  giving  way  to  the  ugly,  mutton-leg  sleeve, 
and  gored  skirt  of  the  present  day.  It  is  a  pity,  for  the  peasant 
girl  is  often  very  attractive  in  the  simple  dress  suited  to  her  face 
and  figure,  and  very  commonplace  when  she  apes  the  lady  of 
fashion. 


CHAPTER    XXII 

NUREMBERG  AND  THE  BLACK  FOREST 

F    all    the    quaint    places    that    it    has    been    my   good 

'•'f  ^1^  ^        fortune  to  see,  Nuremberg  takes  the  precedence.      The 

|l    V^Jl    W:       wide  ramparts  and  strong  towers  were  once  protected 

-I   ^!^ilm.     m-      by  a    moat   filled  with    black    water,    but,    now,    grass- 

—  =V«^    *       Lirown  and  dotted  with   trees.      The  river  Pegnitz  flows 

-t^sw        through    the     old     part    of     the    city,     dividing    it    almost 

ec]ually.       It    is   crossed   b\-    cpieer    bridges,    that    add   one 

more  touch  to  the  general   picturescjueness  of    the  town,    all  towers 

and  turrets,    dormer  windows  and  red,    gabled  roofs. 

It  seemed  incongruous  to  take  a  carriage  to  the  hotel,  and  the 
sight  of  a  street  car  positively  hurt  our  feelings,  so  we  gave  our 
baggage  to  a  stout  porter  and  walked  under  the  tower  gateway, 
and  over  the  bridge  across  the  moat.  The  main  street  is  irregular 
and  narrow,  and  the  hotel  that  we  selected  was  once  the  resi- 
dence of  a  fine  family.  How  we  enjoyed  the  frescoes  on  the  walls 
of  our  room,  the  great,  carved  bed  and  the  ornaments  on  the  high 
chimneypiece!      It    was    like    a    chapter    out  of   an    old    story-book! 

In  the  quarter  of  St.  Sebald  is  a  Gothic  church  of  the  same 
name.  The  "Schreyer  Monument"  m  relief,  on  one  side,  and  the 
representation  of  the  "Last  Judgment,"  over  the  south  entrance, 
are  world-renowned  examples  of  stone  cutting.  They  are  the  work 
of  Adam  Kraft't,  a  Nuremberg  stone  cutter,  and  were  executed  in 
the    15th  century. 

Within  the  church,  is  the  bronze  monument  of  St.  Seljald, 
weighing  eight  tons,  the  masterpiece  of  Peter  Vischer,  who,  with 
his  five  sons,  worked  upon  it  for  thirteen  years,  introducing  into 
the  design  small  figures  of  the  twelve  apostles,  besides  prophets 
and  the  fathers  of  the  church. 

The    greatest  artist  of    Nuremberg  was   Albrecht  Diirer  (1471- 

342 


344 


NUREMBERG  AND   THE  BLACK  FOREST 


1 5 28),  who  ranks  in  the  art  world  with  Titian  and  Rubens.  A  true 
German  in  birth  and  feehng,  he  interpreted  the  rough  sincerity,  the 
iron  will  and  the  homely  tenderness  of  the  race,  as  no  other  artist 


OLD    CUSTOM    HOUSE 


has  ever  been  able  to  do.  Examples  of  his  work  are  to  be  found 
in  all  the  great  galleries  of  the  world.  One  cannot  gaze  long  at 
his  fine  countenance,  or  at  the  prim,  old  city  of  his  birth,  without 
recollectinsi  the  lines  of  Loni-fellow:  — 


••In  the  valley  of  the  Peynitz,  where  across  broad  meadow-lands 
Rise  the  blue  Franconiaii  mountains,  Nuremberg,  the  ancient,  stands. 

*  :t:  %  %  -Sfi 

"Quaint  old  town  of  toil  and  traffic,  quaint  old  town  of  art  and  song, 
Memories  haunt  thy  pointed  gables,  like  the  rooks  that  round  them  throng. 

■^  if.  %  ifL  ^ 

"Here,  when  Art  was  still  religion,  with  a  simple,  reverent  lieart. 
Lived  and  labored  Albrecht  Diirer,  the  Evangelist  of  Art; 

ifi  ^  :it  ^  H< 

"Fairer  seems  the  ancient  city,  and  the  sunshine  seems  more  fair, 
That  he  once  has  trod  its  pavement,  that  he  once  has  breathed  its  air!" 


NUREMBERG  AND   THE  BLACK'  EOKEST 


345 


A  fine  statue  of  Diirer  stands  in  the  square  named  for  liim, 
near  liis  home,  now  the  iirojierly  of  the  city.  The  rooms  are  just 
as  he  left  them,  with  curious  old  furniture.  In  the  kitelim,  the 
stove  stands  upon  a  large  brick  platform;  the  wood  is  heaj)ed  on 
to]',  under  a  threat  iron  pot,  which  is  placed  on  a  frame.  Near  by, 
is  a  huge  water-bucket, 
small  at  the  bottom  and 
large  at  the  top,  with 
leathern  thongs  by  which 
to  carry  it,  on  the  back, 
to  and  from  the  pump; 
just  such  buckets  are 
still  in  u.se. 

Attached  to  the  14th 
century  Chapel  of  St. 
Moritz,  like  a  piece  of 
moss  to  the  trunk  of  a 
tree,  is  a  tiny  restaurant 
with  a  bell  on  one  side, 
the  B  ratwurst-Glock- 
lein,*  where  Albrecht 
Diirer,  Adam  Kraft  t, 
Peter  Vischer,  and  Hans 
Sachs,  the  poet,  used  to 
meet  their  friends,  and, 
together,  have  a  plate  of 
Bratii.'2irst.  A  delicious 
sauerkraut  is  served  with 
this  sausage  peculiar  to  Nuremberg, — the  crispest,  daintiest  morsel 
that  it  was  ever  the  privilege  of  a  hungry  wayfarer  to  taste.  It 
was  great  fun  to  watch  the  sausages  sputtering  and  sizzling  over 
the  embers  in  the  diminutive  kitchen.  A  dish  of  Bratunirst,  and 
two  fresh  rolls  cost  onlv  nine  cents,  and  I  am  afraid  we  were  care- 
less of  our  digestion  while  in  Nuremberg. 

Upon  the  walls  of   the  long,   low   room,   lighted    by  odd,   little 


DURER'S    KITCHEN 


*  Little  bell. 


346  NUREMBERG  AND   THE  BLACK  FOREST 

windows,    arc  portraits  ot    the    artists,    and   tin-    sketches  and    auto- 
graphs of  otlier  famous  people. 

A  memorial  tablet  on  the  house  of  John  Palm,  a  bookseller, 
records  that  he  was  condemned  by  a  court-martial  and  shot,  at 
Braunau,  by  Napoleon's  orders  in  1806,  because  he  had  published 
a  pamphlet  on  the  "Degradation  of  Germany,"  which  was  not  at 
all  liatti'ring  to   T^rance. 

Although  the  permanent  buildings  of  Nuremberg  appeared 
strange  to  us,  the  temporary  structui"es  on  the  grounds  of  the 
Exposition  tlid  not;  for,  they  are  almost  the  same  as  some  of  our 
World's  Fair  buildings.  The  walks,  too,  are  bordered  with  the  same 
little,  colored  cups  with  lighted  wicks.  While  we  were  eating  an  ice 
at  a  cafe  table,  the  evening  we  were  there,  a  family  of  Germans  sat 
down  beside  us.  Perceiving  that  we  spoke  English,  they  began  to 
ask  us  questions  in  our  own  tongue.  Of  course,  we  were  delighted, 
and  spent  a  pleasant  hour.  They  seemed  much  surprised  when 
we  told  them  that  the  same  method  of  lighting  the  walks  had  been 
used  in  Chicago,  and  one  old  lady  seemed  to  doubt  our  veracity, 
when  we  said  that  our  Exposition  was  about  six  times  as  large  as 
theirs,  if  not  larger.  All  about,  under  the  trees,  are  wooden  images 
of  gnomes,  their  odd,  little  faces  screwed  uj-)  in  all  sorts  of  shapes, 
rascality  stamped  upon  every  one. 

We  travelled  from  Nuremberg  to  the  Black  Forest  by  way  of 
Carlsruhe,  the  capital  of  Baden,  where  we  stayed  over  night,  going 
on  to  Baden-Baden,    a  watering  placi:  of    note,    the    next   morning. 

After  engaging  a  room  at  the  Hotel  M Ciller,  we  ordered  a  car- 
riage and  span  of  stout  horses,  and,  with  a  driver  recommended  as 
reliable,    we  plunged  into  the  Forest,    on  our  way  to   Gernsbach. 

This  section  is  rirli  in  legends  that  have  inspired  poetry  and 
prose,  times  without  number.  I  wish  I  could  make  }ou  feel  the 
solitude,  solemnity,  and  mysteriousness  of  a  great  forest,  where  one 
rides  for  hours  in  the  subdued  light  that,  hltering  through  the  tops 
of  giant  firs,  and  slanting  downward,  flecks  the  gray,  leaf-strewn 
earth  with  yellow.  The  roads  are  perfect  and,  as  there  is  no 
underbrush  and  the  trees  are  pruned  nearly  to  the  top,  one  can 
see  for  a  great  distance.  As  we  drove  along,  we  were  more  and 
more  impressed  with  the  unusual  height  and  straightness  of  the  trees. 


348  Xr REM  BERG  AXD   THE  BLACK  FOREST 

Though  they  sjnaing  from  the  valle}-  below  us,  their  tops  towered 
far  above  our  heads.  As  soon  as  a  tree  shows  signs  of  decay,  it 
is  cut  down  and  a  new  one  from  the  nurseries  set  out  in  its  place. 
The  branches  are  trimmed  so  that  balance  is  preserved  and  the 
trunks  are  kept  straight.  From  this  forest  the  finest  logs  for 
ship-building  are  obtained.  Growing  beside  the  pines  were  deli- 
cate, waving  ferns,  bluebells  and  tall  foxgloves.  Birds  chirped 
among  the  branches,  or  hopped  along  in  a  friendly  fashion  beside 
the  carriage.  Green  lizards,  horned  beetles,  and  smaller  bugs 
of  all  species  crawled  over  the  moss-covered  boulders  that  border 
the  roadway.  We  looked  in  vain  for  a  fat,  little  elf  to  pop  up 
from  behind  a  stone,  or  a  sprite  to  shake  leaves  upon  us  from  an 
overhanging  bough,  for  no  one  goes  through  the  Black  Forest 
without  remembering  that  it  is  their  favorite  abiding-place  ;  we 
finally  concluded  that  they  were  all  away  in  distant  glades,  hatch- 
ing up  a  new  prank  to  play  upon   the  unwary  traveller. 

Our  first  halt  was  at  the  Alte  Schloss,  or  Old  Castle  of  Baden, 
the  former  residence  of  the  Grand  Dukes,  who,  since  its  destruc- 
tion by  the  French,  in  1689,  have  lived  in  the  town  below.  This 
ruin,  a  mere  pile  of  stones  overrun  by  vines  and  mosses,  is  on  a 
cliff  overlooking  the  valley  of  the  Rhine;  the  walls  date  in  part 
from  the  3rd  centurv. 

About  an  hour's  drive  brought  us  to  a  path  leading  to  the 
Wolfsschlucht,  a  romantic  ravine.  Leaving  the  carriage,  we  walked 
down  into  the  glen,  and  crept  to  the  very  edge  of  some  rocks, 
which  overlook  a  rushing  stream  at  the  bottom.  All  about  us 
were  tall  pines;  their  fragrance  filled  the  air,  and  whispering 
beeches  seemed  to  reveal  the  secrets  of  the  wood  nymphs  and  the 
satvrs.  It  was  here  that  Undine,  the  water  nymph,  playing 
on  her  lyre  by  the  banks  of  the  stream,  bewitched  the  young 
forester. 

The  telltale  hands  of  our  watches  soon  reminded  us  that 
time  was  flying,  so  we  were  forced  to  return  to  the  carriage  and 
press  onward  and  upward  to  that  romantic  stronghold,  the  Castle 
of  Eberstein.  It  stands  on  the  brink  of  a  precipice,  1,000  ft. 
above  the  Murg.  PVom  the  parapet  of  the  castle,  we  could  look 
down  into  the  valley  with    its    wooded    sides,    and    see  the  shining 


350 


NUREMBERG  AND   THE  BLACK  FOREST 


river  winding  in  and  out  among  little  towns.  It  seemed  to  me 
one  of  the  wildest  and  most  beautiful  scenes  of  our  entire  trip. 
About  five  centuries  ago,  a  faithful  subject  of  the  lord  of  the 
castle  had  a  beautiful  daughter  named  Hildegard.  One  day, 
while  her  father  was  up  at  the  great  house,  Hildegard  saw  a 
hostile  force  climbing  the  rocky  height  crowned  by  the  castle. 
Recognizing  the  Wiirtemberger,  deadly  enemies  of  Wolf,  the 
Count  of  Eberstein,  she  ran  swiftly  to  the  castle,  and  bursting 
into  the  midst  of  the  unsuspecting  company  in  the  courtyard, 
cried,  "Beware!  the  Wiirtemberger  are  coming!"  The  horn  of 
Count  Wolf  summoned    his  men   to   arms,    the    brid<je    was    drawn 


CASTLE    EBERSTEIN 

uji  wilh  all  liaste,  and,  when  the  bold  invaders  made  their  attack, 
they  found  the  castle  prepared  for  defense.  Deprived  of  their  ex- 
pected victory,  they  instituted  a  siege,  but,  after  many  days,  were 
obliged   to  abandon   it. 

In  the  meantime,  Hildegard  had  shown  such  hraverv  and  solici- 
tude in  caring  for  the  sick  and  ching  soldiers,  that  she  had  com- 
pletely won  the  heart  of  the  proud  Wolf,  and  he  demanded  of 
her  father  her  hand  in  marriag(\  On  the  very  day  of  the  wed- 
ding, when  all  was  in  readiness.  Wolf  of  Wunnenstein  suddenly 
appeared  at  the  castle  and  craved  the  assistance  of  the  bridegroom- 
elect  in  recovering  his  castle,  and  the  jirovisions  that  the  rt'tiring 
enemv  had  st<>len  and    were    carrying  oti.      The  Count  refused    it. 


352  NUREMBERG  AND   THE  BLACK  EOREST 

at  first,  but,  as  the  lord  of  Wunnenstein  was  persistent,  and  Hil- 
degard  signified  her  desire  to  accompany  her  betrothed  and  share 
his  dangers,  he  could  no  longer  refuse.  Calling  his  retainers  to 
arms,  he  set  out,  with  the  maiden  riding  bv  his  side.  Thev  over- 
took the  enemy  in  a  few  hours  beside  the  river  Murg,  and  a  terri- 
ble battle  insued.  The  two  Wolfs  fought  bravel}-  and,  even  in  the 
thickest  of  the  fight,  Hildegard  was  beside  her  lover,  warding  off 
stroke  after  stroke  intended  for  him.  At  last,  her  spear  was  torn 
from  her  hands,  Imt,  seeing  a  lance  aimed  at  the  breast  of  the 
Count,  she  threw  herself  in  front  of  him  and  received  the  murder- 
ous point  in  her  own  bosom.  This  so  infuriated  the  knight  and 
his  followers  that  they  redoubled  their  efforts  and  were  left  masters 
of  the  field.  The  fair  Hildegard  was  laid  to  rest  in  the  old  church 
of  Gernsbach,  and  the  bereaved  Wolf,  who  had  sworn  never  to  call 
another  woman,  wife,  passed  the  remainder  of  his  days,  alone. 

All  about  the  castle  are  beautiful  roses,  and  ivy  climbs  loxingly 
up  the  massive  walls.  In  the  court  is  a  fountain,  and  a  carved 
stone  shrine.  On  either  side  of  the  entrance  are  bronze  statues 
of  several  Counts  of  Eberstein,  in  full  armor;  their  escutcheons  line 
the  passages,  though  the  carvings  are  nearly  obliterated. 

We  had  dinner  at  Gernsbach  down  in  the  vallev,  where  we 
could  look  up  at  the  very  heights  from  which  we  had  looked  down 
The  meal  was  served  under  a  spreading  beech  in  the  hotel  garden, 
on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  we  then  returned  to  Baden-Baden, 
passing  a  number  of  foresters  with  baskets  strapped  to  their  backs, 
and  great  logs  being  hauled  to  the  town,  by  oxen.  We  could  smell 
the  new-mown  ha\'  in  the  valley,  as  the  farmers'  wives  and  daughters 
turned  it  over  with  their  wooden  forks. 

Although  we  were  anxious  to  see  a  real  nunnery,  we  lifted  the  old 
iron  knocker  of  the  Cistercian  Convent,  near  the  town,  with  a  tremor 
of  doubt  as  to  our  admittance.  In  a  moment,  a  pleasant  face,  framed 
in  a  snowy  cap,  peered  out  from  the  window  above,  and  a  gentle 
voice  bade  us  enter.  Ascending  a  stone  staircase,  we  found  our- 
selves in  front  of  a  heavy  oaken  door,  in  the  center  of  which  was 
a  metal  lattice.  A  nun  wearing  a  peculiar,  winged  headdress  and 
a  fluted  collar,  both  of  spotless  linen,  appeared  at  the  opening. 
Greeting  us  with  a  few,  kind  words,  slie  pointed  to  the  door  of  a  lai"ge 


NUREMBERG  .LVD   THE  BLACK  FOREST 


353 


reception-room,  opjiosite,  where  a  lay  sister  explained  the  pictures 
upon  the  walls  and  exhibited  a  statuette  of  Irmen,L;ard,  widow  of 
Hermann  IV.  of  Baden,  who  founded  the  eon\ent,  in  1245.  and 
whose  tomb   is  in  the  chapel. 

We  consider  Baden-Baden  much  more  delightful  than  Carls- 
bad. The  drives  on  the  Ijanks  of  the  river  Oos  are  charming,  and 
the  baths,  notably  the  Kaiserin  Augusta  Bad  which  is  exclusively 
for  ladies,  are  luxurious  in  the  extreme.      One  feels  like  a  princess, 


THE    KAISERIN  AUGUSTA    BAD 

when  stepping  into  the  marble  basins  inclosed  1)\-  frescoed  walls. 
Upon  emerging  therefrom,  enveloped  in  a  long,  white  robe,  with  a 
cap,  socks  and  slippers  to  match,  and  wrapped  in  a  blanket,  one 
is  stowed  away  for  a  quiet  snooze. 

The  fine  building  called  the  "Trinkhalle, "  where  the  waters 
are  drunk,  is  adorned  with  frescoes  representing  the  fourteen  legends 
of  the  Black  Forest.  That  of  the  "White  Doe"  runs  something 
like  this:  One  day,  deep  in  the  glades  of  a  forest,  a  famous  hunter 
caught  sight  of  a  snow-white  doe.  He  pursued  it  in  liot  haste,  but 
it  was  swift  and  ever  evaded  him.  The  chase  led  him,  at  last,  to 
the  huge  rocks  of  the  Battert,  where  the  doe  suddenly  disappeared. 
A  moment  later,  the  rocks  seemed  to  open  and  from  a  cleft  stepped 
a  beautiful  woman  with  the  white  doe  by  her  side.  The  hunter, 
lost  in  amazement  at  the  apparition,  could  not  speak,  when  rebuked 
23 


354 


NUREMBERG  AND   THE  BLACK  FOREST 


for  his  heartlessness  in  pursuing  tlie  doe  with  a  desire  to  kill  it. 
Finally,  hearing  the  words,  '  'You  must  depart  from  my  province  and 
never  hunt  again!"  he  obeyed  with  bowed  head,  and  spent  the  re- 
mainder of  his  days  in  clearing  the  forest.  It  is  said  that  he  was 
the  first  person  who  opened  the  valley  of  the  Oos  for  cultivation. 
While  at  Nuremberg,  I  so  admired  a  cute  wooden  model  of 
the  Bratwurst-Glocklein  that,  as  it  cost  only  six  marks,  I  could 
not  resist  the  temptation  to  buy  it.  My  friend  sent  several  wood 
carvings  from  Switzerland,  by  post,  and  I  thought  nothing  could 
be  easier  than  to    mail    the  toy  to  you.      So,    having   carefullv  tied 


THE    TRINKHALLE 

it  up  in  a  box,  on  my  way  to  the  postofhce,  I  attempted  to  mail 
it.  Not  being  able  to  speak  the  language  or  to  understand  it  very 
well,  I  coulci  not  comprehend  exactly  why  they  refused  the  parcel, 
but  guessed  that  it  was  because  it  was  not  sealed.  I  was  obliged, 
therefore,  to  take  it  to  Baden-Baden.  Yesterday  about  noon,  we 
started  for  the  postoffice,  with  the  box,  after  having  paid  a  bo\- 
twenty  pfennigs  *  for  sealing  it.  The  clerk,  however,  contemptu- 
ously tore  off  the  paper,  examined  the  box,  and  informed  me  that 
they  could  not  accept  it  unless  wrapped  in  "Voxline, "  or  something 
that  sounded  very  much   like  that.      Rather  discouraged,  we  walked 


*  loo  pfennigs  equal  one  mark. 


FRESCO,    LEGEND    OF    THE    WHITE    DOE 


EMPEROR   WILLIAM    OF    GERM-tJ,     M.Jij    FAMILY 


NUREMBERG  AXD   THE  BLACK  EOREST  357 

several  blocks,  and,  at  last,  found  the  needful  article,  and  a  very 
obliging  young  man  spent  a  full  half  hour  folding  and  sealing  the 
waterproof  paper,  for  such,  "Voxline"  proved  to  be.  After  his  ex- 
traordinary efforts,  I  timidly  asked  his  charge.  lie  said,  one  mark 
and  fifty  pfennigs;  then  he  jiroduced  three  formidable,  jninted 
sheets,  declarations  to  the  different  customhouses  through  which 
that  wretched  little  box  must  pass.  When  these  had  been  prop- 
erly filled  out,  the  parcel  weighed,  and  an  address  blank  ]:irepared, 
mourning  that  about  an  hour  and  a  half  of  our  precious  time  had 
been  wasted,  we  returned  to  the  postoffice  and  again  presented  the 
parcel,  with  the  invoice,  to  the  august  person  at  the  desk.  Turn- 
ing the  package  over  several  times,  glancing  critically  at  each  seal, 
he  permitted  a  clerk  to  weigh  it,  to  see  if  the  weight  exactly 
corresponded  with  the  description,  and  then  announced  that  there 
must  be  a  receipted  bill  sent  with  it.  This  he  kindl}'  made  out 
for  me,  and,  after  exacting  a  fee  of  four  marks,  fifty  pfennigs,  said 
that  was  all.  I  departed,  a  sadder,  but  wiser  woman.  The  costly 
souvenir  is  on  its  way  to  America.  What  the  duties  will  be,  there, 
I  dare  not  even  think!  I  only  advise  that,  if  it  reaches  you  safely, 
you  put  it  under  a  glass  dome  and  label  it  "x\delaide's  Folly." 

The  most  imposing  ruin  in  Germany  is  the  old  castle  of  Heidel- 
berg, where  we  stopped  for  a  few  hours  on  our  way  to  Mayence. 
It  was  built  between  1294  and  13 19,  and  was  blown  up  by  the 
French,  in  1689.  It  surely  must  be  more  beautiful  in  its  decay 
than  in  its  completeness,  for  the  ivy  runs  at  will  over  the  molder- 
ing  walls;  flowering  shrubs  and  graceful  ferns  fill  the  broad,  dry 
moat,  and  magnificent  old  trees,  some  of  them  of  the  rarest  species 
brought  from  far  away  lands,  lift  their  leafy  heads  above  the  crum- 
bling walls  and  arches.  The  outer  walls  are  quite  plain,  all  the 
decorations  being  on  the  facade  toward  the  castle  yard,  where,  in 
niches  between  the  windows,  are  life-size  statues,  in  full  armor,  of 
Charlemagne  and  many  of  the  Counts  Palatine. 

In  the  cellar,  is  the  famous  Heidelberg  tun,  the  largest  cask 
in  Europe;  it  is  made  of  oak,  without  hoops,  and  its  capacity  is 
49,000  gallons.  A  wooden  figure  of  Perkeo,  a  court  jester,  stands 
near  by,  a  funny  little  fellow,  with  a  bright  red  wig,  holding  an 
old   clock.     When  asked    the    time    of    day,    the   jester  was  in  the 


HEIDELBERG    CASTLE 


NL'R/'.Af/^F.RG  A  YD   THE  BLACK  FORIiST 


359 


habit  of  tcllin.s;;  people  to  pull  the  cord  which  hung  from  the  clock; 
whereupon,  the  door  would  Hy  open,  and  the  hu.shy  tail  of  a  iox 
fastened  inside  would  strike  the  inquirer  full  in  the  face.  Pcrkeo 
ust'd   to  boast  oi   drinking  eighteen  bottles  of  wine  every  day. 

( )n   an   upper  floor  is  a  niuseuni,  wliere  we   noticed  the  engage- 


MAMMOTH    CASK,    AND    FIGURE    OF   PF.RKEO 

ment  ring  gi\en    by   Martin    Luther  to   Katherinc  von   Bora,  and  a 
set  of  rare,   painted  wooden  plates. 

To  see  Heidelberg  Castle  at  its  best,  one  must  view  it  by 
moonlight,  while  standing  by  the  parapet  along  the  ri\er.  Then 
the  grandeur  of  its  proportions  and  the  grace  of  its  mantle  of  ivv 
are  brought  out,  and  one  realizes  to  the  fullest  extent  the  beauty 
of  its  situation. 

"  Oh  a  dainty  plant  is  the  Ivy  green, 

That  creepeth  o'er  ruins  okl! 
Of  right  choice  food  are  his  meals  I   ween, 

In  his  cell  so  lone  and  cold. 
The  walls  must  be  crumbled,  the  stones  de- 
ca^ed, 
To  pleasure  his  daint\'  whim; 
And  the  mouldering  dust  that  jears  liave 
made 


360 


NUREMBERG  AND  THE  BLACK  FOREST 


Is  a  merry  meal  for  him. 

Creeping  where  no  life  is  seen 
A  rare  old  plant  is  the  Ivy  green. 
*  *  :p  * 

"Whole  ages  have  fled,  and  their  works  de- 
ca}ed, 
And  nations  scattered  been; 
But  the  stout  old  Ivy  shall  never  fade 

From  its  hale  and  hearty  green. 
The  brave  old  plant  in  its  lonely 
days 
Shall  fatten  upon  the  past; 
For  the  stateliest  building  man  can 
raise 
Is  the  Ivy's  food  at  last. 

Creeping  where  no  life  is  seen 

A   rare   old   plant   is   the   Iv\'   green."* 


*Charles  Dickens. 


CHAPTER    XXIII 


THE    RHINE,   COLOGNE,  AND    MX- LA- CHAPELLE 


iW  i^-"-  "^HILE  we  were  in  jNIayence,  on  June  2Sth,  awaiting 
^■'"^r  >^-~  ^'^'^  boat  to  take  us  down  the  Rhine,  Mrs.  M.  had 
^^jVI  <rf)  quite  an  adventure.  As  I  was  busy  writing  to  you, 
she  went  out  alone  to  see  something  of  the  town. 
Wishing  to  enter  a  church,  she  opened  the  heavy 
outi-r  door  and  passed  into  the  vestibule,  leaving 
the  door,  as  usual,  to  close  itself,  which  it  did  with 
a  sharp  bang.  The  vestibule  was  perfectly  dark, 
and  as  she  could  not  see  the  inner  door,  she  attempted 
to  open  the  outer  one  again,  but  it  refused  to  yield  to  her  efforts. 
Groping  her  way  to  the  inner  one,  she  found  it,  also,  locked,  and 
her  repeated  raps  brought  no  response.  The  church  was  not  much 
frequented,  and  it  was  a  question  whether  an}-  one  would  come  to 
her  relief  before  the  time  of  evening  service,  and  the  boat  was  to 
leave  in  an  hour.  After  being  thoroughlv  frightened,  she  discovered, 
liy  the  sense  of  feeling,  a  knob  on  the  outer  door,  far  above  her 
head,  and,  as  she  pulled  upon  it  with  all  her  might,  it  moved  a 
bar  below  and  she  was  released. 

On  our  way  down  the  river,  we  suffered  somewhat  from  the 
cold,  but  the  scenery  was  so  varied  and  beautiful  that,  in  spite  of 
chills,  we  remained  on  deck  all  day.  Rugged  mountains  rose  in 
the  distance,  sometimes  dark  with  pine  forests;  while  upon  heights 
far  above  the  water  were  ruined  castles.  At  every  bend  of  the 
river,  towns  and  villages  appeared,  some  surrounded  bv  fields  and 
vineyards,   others  nestling  at  the   foot  of  cliffs. 

The  sight  of  Bingen  brought  to  mind  the  poem  of  '  •  Bingen 
on  the  Rhine."  Opposite,  on  the  Niederwald,  740  ft.  above  the 
Rhine,  is  the  colossal  monument  of  Germania,  erected  by  the  Ger- 
man  people  in    memory    of    the    foundation  of   the  new   empire    in 

361 


362 


THE  RHINE,  COLOGNE,  AND  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE 


1S70-71.  Splendid  reliefs  adorn  the  base.  The  one  on  the  side 
facing  the  river  is  symbolical  of  the  national  song,  "The  Watch 
on  the  Rhine." 

Below    Bingen,    is    a  small    island,    and    on    it,  the    little    stone 
watchtower  called  the    "  Mouse  Tower."     It    is    said   that  an  arch- 


i'Mi 


MOUSE    TOWER 

bishop  of  i\[a)'cnce,  during  a  famine,  once  burned  a  number  of 
peasants  in  a  Ijarn,  ironically  comparing  them  to  mice  bent  on  nib- 
bling the  corn.  He  was  afterwards  devoured  alive  bv  mice  which 
chased  him  to  this  refuge.  Opposite,  is  a  ruined  castle,  a  vivid 
contrast  to  the  vine-clad   hillside. 

A  little  further  on,  is  produced  the  choice  Rhine  wine  called 
"Assmannshausen."  In  the  15th  century  that  of  Bacharach,  one 
of  the  greatest  wine-marts  on  the  river,  was  far-famed.  The  town 
of  Nuremberg  obtained  its  freedom  in  return  for  a  yearly  tribute 
to  the  Emperor  Wenzel  of    four  tuns  of  Bacharach  wine. 


Tin-:  RlfLYE.  COLOGNE,  AXD  AIX^LA-CHAPRLLF. 


363 


We  waited  anxit)uslv  for  a  view  of  tlie  Lorelei  roeks,  where 
legend  says  that  a  siren  sits  and  sings,  luring  the  unwary  mariner 
into  the  rapids  at  the  base  of  the  cliff.  The  great  bluff  with  its 
nian\-colored  stones  juts  out  into  tlie  river,  and  looks  so  wild  that 
it  is  not  at  all  clillicult  to  believe  that  a  water  nymph  might  choose 
such  a  glittering  precipice  for  her  habitation. 

The  scenery  near  Rolandseck  seemed  to  us  the  most  beautiful 
on  the  Rhine.      On  the  right,  are  the  Seven  Mountains  which  form 


THE    LORELEI    ROCKS 

the  northwestern  boundary  of  the  wood  district.  They  are  all  of 
volcanic  origin.  There  is  a  cavern  in  the  side  of  the  Drachenfels, 
where  Siegfried,  the  hero  of  the  Niebelungenlied,  is  said  to  have 
killed  a  dragon  and  anointed  himself  with  its  blood,  thus  becom- 
ing invulnerable  to  the  attacks  of  his  enemies.  The  great  castle 
above   is    one    of   the    most    renowned    on    the  river. 


The  castled  crag  of  Drachenfels 

Frowns  o'er  the  wide  and  winding  Rhine, 
Whose  breast  of  waters  broadh'  swells 

Between  the  banks  which  liear  the  vine, 
And  hills  all  rich  with  blossomed  trees. 

And  fields  which  promise  corn  and  wine, 
And  scattered  cities  crowning  these. 

Whose  far  white  walls  along  them  shine, 


364  THE  RHINE,  COLOGNE,  AND  AIX~LA~CHAPELLE 

Have  strewed  a  scene,  which  I  should 
see 
With  double  joy  wert  tliou  with  me. 

"And  peasant  girls,  with  deep  blue  eyes, 
And  hands  which  offer  early  flowers, 
Walk  smiling  o'er  this  paradise; 

Above,  the  frequent  feudal  towers 
Through  green  leaves  lift  their  walls  of 
gray; 
And  many  a  rock  which  steeply  lowers. 
And  noble  arch  in  proud  decay, 

Look  o'er  this  vale  of  vintage  bowers; 
But  one  thing  want  these  hanks  of 
Rhine, — 
Thy  gentle  hand  to  clasp  in  mine!"* 

Opposite,  on  the  left  bank,  is  the  Roland  Arch,  all  that  is  left 
of  a  castle  said  to  have  been  built  by  Roland,  the  paladin  of 
Charlemagne.  Although  historians  affirm  that  Roland  died  in  the 
battle  of  Roncevalles,  the  following  legend  is  cherished  by  the 
peasants : — 

One  night  there  came  to  the  castle  of  Drachenburg  a  brave 
young  knight  named  Roland.  Count  Heribert,  lord  of  the  Seven 
Mountains,  welcomed  him  royally  and  bade  his  lovely  daughter, 
Hildcgunde,  set  bread,  wine  and  fish  before  their  guest.  As  she 
touched  her  dainty  lips  to  the  wine  cup  before  presenting  it,  ac- 
cording to  the  custom  of  the  day,  Roland  tell  desperately  in  love 
with  the  fair  face  and  golden  tresses  of  the  maiden.  She  had 
never  before  seen  so  gallant  a  knight,  therefore,  it  was  not  strange 
that  her  heart  was  captured,  and  that  they  became  affianced  lovers. 
But,  unfortunatel}',  the  mandates  of  Charlemagne  broke  in  ujion 
their  brief  happiness,  for  Roland  was  summoned  to  join  tlic  crusades. 
Weary  months  rolled  away,  and,  receiving  tidings  that  her  hero  had 
been  slain,  Hildegunde  retired  to  a  nunnery  on  the  little  island  of 
Nonnenwerth,  directly  opposite  the  old  arch,  and  there  took  the  veil. 
But  the  rei)ort  of  the  knight's  death  was  untrue;  Roland,  though 
wounded,  recovered,  and    hastened  to  claim  his  bride,  only   to  find 


'  Lord  Byron. 


366 


THE  RHINE,  COLOGNE,  AND  AIX-LA^CHAPELLE 


that  she  was  lost  to  him  forever.  In  despair,  he  built  a  castle,  of 
which  only  this  one  arch  remains,  and  there  he  lived  in  solitude, 
watching  for  an  occasional  glimpse  of  his  beloved,  as  she  passed  to 
and  fro  between  the  little  chapel  and  the  convent  on  the  island  be- 
low him.  One  day,  the  tolling  of  the  bell  announced  her  death, 
and  at  that  moment  his  heart  broke.  A  girls'  school  now  occupies 
the  convent  about  which  such  a  tragic  romance  clings. 

The  Rhine  wines  are  among  the  finest  in  the  world:  especially, 
the  white  wines.      On   the  banks  between   Mavence  and   P)onn,    the 


ROLANDSECK    AND    NONNENWERTH 

vines  mav  be  seen  in  their  hiuhest  state  ot  culti\ati(>n.  These 
wines  I'etain  their  excellence  for  fitty  years,  although  they  contain 
only  eight  or  nine  per  cent  of  alcohol,  showing  conclusively  that 
the  state  of  fermentation  is  nearly  perfect.  At  Schloss  Johannis- 
berg  are  the  most  celebrated  vineyards.  As  the  grapes  are  se- 
lected one  by  one  from  the  most  perfectly  ripened  bunches,  the 
quantity  of  this  wine  is  limited,  and  the  price  accordingly  high.  The 
vineyards  along  the  Moselle  river  are  in  a  narrow  valley,  between 
rocks,  and,  lacking  the  sunshine  of  the  hillsides,  the  grapes  do  not 
ripen  so  perfectly  as  those  of  other  sections;  but  the  wines  are 
recommended  as  particularly  healthful. 

The  Emperor  Charlemagne,  or  ' '  Charles  the  Great, "  as  the 
Germans  called  him,  on  account  of  his  enormous  size,  had  many 
palaces  on  the  Rhine,  but  there  is  now  little  trace  of  them,  as  the 
few  remaining  fragments  have  been  incorporated  in  castles  of  a 
later  date. 


368  THE  RHINE,  COLOGNE,  AND  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE 

As  we  neared  Cologne,  we  were  struck  with  the  beauty  of  its 
site,  and  with  the  grandeur  of  the  Cathedral,  which  is  generally 
considered  to  illustrate  the  principles  of  Gothic  architecture  better 
than  any  other.  We  had  thought  that  we  could  admire  no  Gothic 
structure  as  much  as  the  Duomo  in  Milan,  but,  when  I  left  Cologne, 
my  opinion  wavered.  Though  lacking  the  many  statues  which  so 
add  to  the  effect  of  the  Italian  cathedral,  the  flying  buttresses  of 
the  one  in  Cologne  are  things  of  beauty.  There  is  not  suflicient 
space  to  enable  one  fully  to  appreciate  the  proportions  of  the  lat- 
ter, for,  instead  of  being  on  an  open  square,  it  is  hemmed  in  on  all 
sides  by  luiildings,  and  one  has  a  frantic  desire  to  tear  down  a  dozen 
blocks  and  clear  the  way  for  its  majestic  presence. 

()ur  special  letter  of  introduction  gave  us  a  privilege  in  Cologne 
which  was  most  enjoyable,  that  of  inspecting  the  large,  chocolate 
manufactory  of  StolKverck,  whose  "nickel-in-the-slot  "  machines  are 
seen  everywhere  in  America.  We  were  provided  with  a  special 
escort,  and  the  tour  of  the  extensive  buildings  occupied  more  than 
two  hours.  The  process  of  grinding  the  chocolate  in  the  huge  mills 
was  very  interesting,  as  well  as  the  mixing  of  the  candy,  the  fin- 
ishing and  boxing.  Everything  which  is  used  is  made  in  these 
works.  The  wood  for  the  boxes  is  cut  in  a  private  sawmill;  the 
nickel  machines  are  made  here,  and  printing  presses  in  the  estab- 
lishment supply  labels  and  posters.  In  the  bakeries,  biscuits  are 
turned  out  by  thousands,  and,  there,  we  tasted  several  varieties  of 
cakes  covered  with  chocolate.  The  many  hundred  employees  are 
provided  with  a  good  library,  dining-hall,  bath-rooms  and  dressing- 
rooms. 

Most  tourists  pass  by  Aix-la-Chapelle,  but  we  felt  that  such 
a  historic  spot  should  not  be  neglected.  The  warm  sulphur  springs 
at  Aix  are  visited  annually  by  thousands  of  invalids. 

The  Town  Hall,  begun  in  1353,  is  the  chief  point  of  interest. 
Within  its  walls  were,  doubtless,  signed  three  famous  treaties; 
namely,  the  peace  compact  between  Louis  XIV.  and  Spain,  in  1668; 
that  of  Aix-la-Chapelle,  terminating  the  Austrian  W^ar  of  Succes- 
sion in  1748,  and  the  treaty  of  18 18,  when  the  German  armies 
were  recalled  from  France.  In  the  Kaisersaal,  fifty-five  yards  long 
by    twenty    yards    wide,  thirty-seven    German  emperors    have   been 


370 


THE  RHINE,  COLOGNE,  AND  AIX-LA   CHAPELLE 


crowned.  Upon  the  side  walls  are  eight  frescoes,  four  Ijy  Alfred 
Rethel,  valuable  both  from  a  historic  and  artistic  point  of  view. 
They  illustrate,  chiefly,  scenes  from  the  life  of  Charlemagne,  but  one 
is  entitled  the  "Emperor  Otho  III.  opening  the  Burial-Vault  of 
Charlemagne."  The  aged  emperor  was  interred  sitting  upright,  in 
full  coronation  robes,  with  scepter  and  ball  in  hand.  When  the  vault 
was  opened,  nearly  two  hundred  years  later,  the  skeleton,  still  per- 
fect, was  found  in  the  same  position,  and  wearing  the  robes  and 
crown  with  the  dignity  of  the  living  Charlemagne.      The  Emperor 


CATHEDRAL,  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE 

Otho  is  depicted  kneeling  in  homage  before  this  ghastly  sovereign, 
whose  figure  is  illuminated  by  the  torches  of  the  workmen. 

The  marble  slabs  which  composed  Charlemagne's  tomb  were 
converted  by  Frederick  Barbarossa  into  a  throne,  used  thereafter  at 
the  coronation  of  the  emperors.  The  bones  were  transferred  to  a 
sarcophagus,  and,  later,  to  the  reliquary  where  they  now  are.  This 
receptacle  is  in  the  Treasury  of  the  cathedral,  which  boasts  of 
possessing  the  most  precious  relics  in  the  world.      The  royal  insig- 


372  THE  RHINE,  COLOGNE,  AND  AIX-LA-CHAPELLE 

nia  were  removed  from  Aix  to  Paderborn,  in  1794,  and,  four  years 
later,  to  Vienna,  where  you  will  remember  that  we  saw  them. 
The  treasury  is  in  a  chapel  opening  out  of  the  octagon,  erected 
b)-  Charlemagne  between  796  and  804;  it  is  now  the  central 
part  of  the  cathedral.  Here  are  kept  the  P'our  Great  Relics,  i.  e., 
the  swaddling  clothes  of  the  infant  Christ;  the  blood-stained  cloth 
in  which  the  body  of  John  the  Baptist  was  wrapped;  the  linen 
cloth  with  which  the  Saviour  was  girded  on  the  cross;  and  the 
robe  of  the  Virgin.  These  are  believed  by  most  Roman  Catholics 
to  be  the  originals.  An  Irish  gentleman,  who  was  among  the  group 
looking  at  the  relics,  when  we  were,  informed  us  that  he  had  seen 
all  those  of  importance  in  the  world,  and  considered  these  the 
most  authentic. 

The  German  soldiers  wear  handsome  uniforms,  some  with 
white  broadcloth  collar  and  cuffs,  which  are  always  spotless.  This 
is  also  true  in  Italy  and  Austria.  On  the  Continent,  even  the 
street  car  drivers  wear  suits  of  fine  cloth,  with  light-colored  trim- 
mings. How  they  keep  so  free  from  dust  is  a  m)-stery,  but  prob- 
ably their  neat  appearance  is  largely  due  to  the  cleanliness  of  the 
streets. 

We  had  read  that  in  Germany  women  were  hitched  with  the  ox 
to  the  plow,  but  supposed  that  such  customs  belonged  to  the  Mid- 
dle Ages.  Not  so  !  Yesterday,  we  were  eyewitnesses  to  just  such 
a  sight;  the  man  guided  the  plow,  and  the  woman  trudged  beside 
the  ox.  It  is  a  common  thing  for  the  women,  like  the  donkeys, 
to  carry  huge  loads  strapped  to  their  backs,  and  yet  Germany 
boasts  of  being  an  enlightened  country. 

It  seems  to  us  that  the  Germans  have  little  patience  with 
people  unfamiliar  with  their  ways,  and  none  at  all  with  those  who 
are  unable  to  speak  tht-ir  language.  But,  if  they  are  not  generally 
agreeable,  they  are  upright  and  energetic,  and  we  respect  them  for 
these  qualities. 


CHAPTER   XXIV 


THE  HAGUE,   AMSTERDAM,   AND  DELFT 


^HE  scenery  clum^etl  rapidlv  as,  leaving  Aix,  we  entered 
)\  Holland.  The  mountains  and  dense  forests  disappeared, 
and,  in  their  stead,  were  marshy  meadows  intersected 
by  rivers  and  canals.  The  verdure  became  lighter  in 
color,  and  the  only  objects  that  broke  the  line  of  the 
horizon  were  the  sails  of  \\indmills,  and  an  occasional 
church  spire. 

We  stojiped  a  couple  of  hours  at  the  interesting  town  of 
Maastricht,  the  capital  of  the  Dutch  part  of  the  province  of  Lim- 
burg.  Just  outside  the  town  gates  are  the  Petersberg  quarries, 
whose  subterranean  lal)\'rinth  is  visited  bv  thousands,  each  ^•ear. 
The  stone,  a  chalky  tufa  mixed  with  shells,  fossils  and  bones,  has 
been  deposited  by  the  ocean.  It  is  sawed  into  blocks,  and  hardens 
on  exposure;  the  excavations  date  from  the  time  of  the  Romans. 
Holland,  like  Venus,  was  born  of  the  sea,  for  the  greater  part 
of  its  surface  has  been  recovered  from  the  ocean.  The  canals,  on 
which  float  craft  used  in  carrying  on  traffic,  helj)  to  drain  the  land, 
the  smaller  ones  marking  the  border  lines  of  farms.  The  sea,  at 
all  times,  a  formidable  enemy  of  the  Netherlands,  has  also  been  a 
jirotector  against  invasion;  ior  the  network  of  canals  and  ditches 
could  not  easilv  be  traversed  by  those  unacquainted  with  their 
intricacies.  Peat  bogs  cover  the  greater  part  of  Northern  Holland. 
The  peat,  which  is  a  partially  decomposed  vegetable  matter,  shows 
mosses,  heather  and  even  the  trunks  of  pine  trees  in  its  composi- 
tion.     It  is  dried,   and  used  extensively  for  fuel. 

A  large  part  of  the  country  is  below  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
its  safety  depends  upon  dykes.  They  are  made  of  mud  and  sand, 
planted  either  with  pines  or  with  ash  trees,  the  interlocked  and 
spreading  roots  of  which  form  strong  foundations.      Sometimes,  they 

373 


374 


THE  HAGUE,  AMSTERDAM,  AXD  DELFT 


are  covered  with  small  branches  of  willow,  woven  together  and 
hlled  with  clay.  The  most  important  dyk'es  are  covered  by  flat- 
headed  nails,  set  closely  together  in  order  that  the  teredo  worm, 
which  is  so  destructive,  ma}'  be  kept  out  of  the  wood.  It  is  said 
that  6,000,000  florins  are  spent  annually  in  protecting  the  land. 
Until  about  thirty-five  years  ago,  the  water  in  the  bogs  defended 
by  the  dykes  was  removed  by  means  of  pumps  run  b)'  gigantic 
windmills,  but    steam  is  now  almost  universally  employed.       These 


MARSH    LANDS    OF    HOLLAND 

windmills,  which  pepper  the  landscape,  have  sails  sometimes  sixty 
feet  in  length  and  are  often  used  in  the  manufacture  of  paper, 
and  for  grinding  corn. 

Low  sand  hills  called  dunes,  which  have  been  thrown  up  by 
the  action  of  the  waves,  extend  along  the  coast.  Tlie  matted  roots 
of  the  reed  grass,  which  grows  upon  these  dunes,  prevent  them 
from  encroaching  upon  the  arable    land. 

As  rain  falls  nearl}'  every  da}-  in  the  year,  and  ftigs  are  fre- 
quent in  Holland,  its  general  appearance  is  softened  by  the  gray 
atmosphere,  and,  therefore,  this  country  is  a  delight  to  the  artists, 
who  flock  there  from  all  over  the  world. 

When  we  approached  the  capital,  the  day  was  nearly  spent. 
As  far  as  the  eye  could  see,  were  green  pasture  lands,  crossed  by 
shining  bands  of  water;  in  the  deep  grass,  cattle  were  grazing,  the 


^^^K  'Vis  Kii^^^^ 

- 

■> 

3D 

|— 

-n 
m 

X 

o 

r 
[- 
> 

D 

^^B     ' 

1 

il/"i 

w^m  -"Sr 

F " 

376  THE  HAGUE,  AMSTERDAM,  AND  DELFT 

Dutch  cattle  that  artists  love  to  jxiint,  with  big  blotches  of  brown 
and  white  on  their  sleek  sides.  In  the  distance  were  the  faint  out- 
Hnes  of  the  cit\-,  enveloped  in  the  radiance  of  the  sun,  that  was  slowly 
sinking  into  the  sea.  It  seemed  as  if  we  were  looking  into  the 
open  gates  of  the  New  Jerusalem  with   the    glory  shining  tlirough. 

The  Hague  was  once  the  hunting  ground  of  the  Counts  of 
Holland,  and  was  therefore  called,  'S.  Graven  Hage,  or  "the  count's 
hedge."  It  has  many  broad,  shady  streets  and  large  scpares. 
The  style  of  architecture  is  homely  and  unpretentious,  narrow,  red 
bricks  being  generally  used  as  building  material.  The  Hall  of  the 
Kni^rhts,  the  Chambers  of  the  States  General,  and  the  Courts  of 
Justice  form  a  group  of  mediaeval  buildings  on  the  southeast  side 
of  the  Vyver.*  Not  far  away  is  the  Mauritshuis,  containing  a  collec- 
tion of  pictures  made  by  the  House  of  Orange. 

The  artist,  Rembrandt  van  Ryn,  born  at  Leyden  in  1607,  might 
be  called  the  pride  of  Holland.  He  was  both  a  realist  and  an 
idealist,  for  the  rudest  subject  which  he  treated  was  filled  with 
the  poetry  that  always  emanates  from  truthfulness  of  purjiose. 
Rembrandt  was  married  early  in  life  to  Saskia  van  Ulenburgh,  a 
delightful  companion,  if  one  may  judge  by  her  picture  in  "The 
Breakfast,"  where  she  is  portrayed  seated  upon  her  husband's  knee. 
As  a  painter  of  lights  and  shadows,  he  was  unsurpassed,  and  as 
an  etcher,  his  superiority  over  all  others  is  admitted.  Rembrandt's 
earhest  manner  in  painting  is  represented  by  five  works,  including 
the  famous  "School  of  Anatomy, "  a  picture  well  known  to  students 
of  medicine,  as  well  as  to  lovers  of  art,  iox  copies  are  found  in  many 
medical  colleges  in  Europe  and  America.  It  depicts  a  scene  in  a 
dissecting  room.  The  anatomist,  Nicolaus  Tulp,  is  lecturing  on  a 
sinew  of  the  arm  of  a  suljject,  lying  at  full  length  on  the  tabk'; 
about  liim  are  grouped  several  surgeons,  but  the  position  of  the 
lecturer  indicates  that  he  is  speaking  to  others  beyond  this  group, 
and  not  visible  in  the  picture ;  thus,  the  scope  of  the  canvas  seems 
to  be  enlarged.  The  masterly  treatment  of  light  and  shade  cannot 
be  described.  One  always  feels  the  thick  darkness  of  a  Rembrandt, 
and  it  is  a  relief  when  a  figure  emerges  from  the  shadows  into  the 
golden  light  so  cleverly  introduced. 


*  A  fish  ]iom 


THE    BREAKFAST,    DRESDEN    GALLERY 


378  THE  HAGUE,  AMSTERDAM,  AND  DELFT 

Of  course,  we  admired  Paul  Potter's  Bull,  a  canvas  that  the 
French  captured  and  carried  oft  to  the  Louvre.  While  there,  it 
ranked  as  the  fourth  picture  in  the  world,  in  importance;  after- 
wards, it  was  restored  to  the  Dutcli  Government.  I  am  afraid, 
however,  that  I  lingered  lonf^est  in  front  of  the  cheerful,  home 
picture  called  the  "Youn.i^  Housewife,"  painted  by  my  Dutch 
favorite,  Gerard  Dou.  I  cannot  enjoy  all  the  works  of  Dutch 
masters,  because  many  of  them  are  so  hopelessly  ugly.  In  a  rep- 
resentation of  the  Madonna,  one  expects  to  see  a  sweet,  intelli- 
gent face  and  a  graceful  form,  not  a  pear-shaped  wooden  mask 
without  expression,  coupled  with  a  contorted  body  and  lankv  limbs. 
To  be  sure,  such  pictures  were  the  best  that  the  artists  could  jinv 
cluce  in  their  times;  in  fact,  it  was  "their  way,"  but,  then,  it  is  some 
people's  "way"  to  be  ridiculous.  Nevertheless,  they  need  not  be 
admired  for  it. 

From  the  picture  gallerv,  we  took  a  tram  to  Laan  van  Meer- 
dervoort,  a  fine  avenue  ujxm  which  is  the  home  of  Mesdag,  the 
greatest  of  Dutch  marine  painters.  His  pictures  of  the  North 
Sea  beach  at  Scheveningen  are  well  known  in  America.  We  rang 
the  bell  at  the  entrance  of  the  small  brick  lodge,  which  is  con- 
nected by  a  covered  passage  with  the  mansion.  The  maid,  who 
answered  the  bell,  was  attired  in  a  neat  gown  and  kerchief,  and 
wore  the  oddest  Dutch  headdress  that  we  have  yet  seen.  Wings 
of  lace  spread  out  from  a  close-fitting  cap,  and  elaborate  gold  or- 
naments, joined  bv  a  band  incircling  the  head,  emerged  from 
under  the  muslin  border  above  the  temples.  Having  heard  that 
the  artist  was  always  gracious  to  Americans  interested  in  art,  I  sent 
up  my  card  with  the  name  of  our  Art  Club  in  one  corner.  In  a  few 
moments,  the  maid  returned  and  we  were  ushered  through  corri- 
dors, hung  with  costly  tapestries  and  furnished  with  cabinets  con- 
taining rare  specimens  of  porcelain,  into  the  Studio.  The  panels 
of  the  doors  were  covered  with  sketches;  one,  of  a  dear  old  ladv, 
whose  face  was  framed  in  a  quaint  cap;  evidentl}',  a  family  por- 
trait. But  we  had  little  time  to  look  about  us,  for,  from  behind  a 
canvas  that  blocked  one  end  of  the  room,  there  appeared  a  figure 
with  hand  outstretched  in  welcome,  and  a  hearty  voice  greeted  us. 

Mynheer    Mesdag    is    a    large    and  well  formed  man  of   about 


THE  HAGUE,  AMSTERDAM,   AXD  DELFT 


379 


fifty-five,  with  kiiulK-  I)lue  eyes,  ruddy  skin  and  the  provcrhiahy 
bkifi  Dutch  niannris.  He  speaks  excellent  English,  and  seemed 
very  nuuh  interested  in  hearing  about  our  artists.  He  said  he 
hoped  that  American  students  would  not  come  abroad  with  the 
idea  of  studying  any  master;  but  he  would  urge  them  to  learn 
drawing  and  coloring,  thoroughly,  and  then  go  straight  to  Nature  and 
copy  her,  not  the  work  of  some  man.  He  affirmed  that  many 
came  to  Holland  and  spent  months  copying  the  style  and  method 
of  prominent  artists,  thereby  destroying  ori'^innlitx-. 


In  the  studio  there  was  a  fine  marine  upon  which  the  artist 
had  been  working.  It  suggested  the  story  of  the  man,  who,  gazing 
at  a  realistic  painting  of  the  sea,  forgot  the  gilded  frame,  and, 
imagining  that  he  was  on  the  shore,  began  to  disrobe,  prepara- 
tory to  a  plunge.  The  paintings  of  the  Barbison  School,  which 
are  owned  by  Mesdag  and  exhibited  with  others  in  his  galleries,  form, 
undoubtedly,  the  largest  and  finest  private  collection  of  that  School, 
in  Europe.  It  includes  thirty  pictures  by  Daubigny,  and  a  number 
by  Corot,  Millet,  Rousseau  and  others.  The  modern  Dutch  School 
is  well  represented,  and  it  was  a  treat  to  see  again  Joseph  Israel's 
"Alone  in  the  World,"  that  pathetic  picture  which  daily  attracted 


38o  THE  HAGUE,  AMSTERDAM,  AND  DELFT 

crowds  during  the  Columbian  Exposition.  In  the  corridors  are  fine 
specimens  of   wood  carving  and  bronzes. 

After  taking  us  through  the  suites  of  rooms,  and  telHng  inter- 
esting stories  connected  with  his  treasures,  the  artist  invited  us  to 
visit  his  panorama,  the  "Beach  at  Scheveningen,"  about  seven  or 
eight  blocks  from  the  house.  This  we  did,  and  enjoyed  it  im- 
mensely. 

Naturally,  after  seeing  such  a  splendid  representation  of  the 
beach,  we  were  impatient  to  visit  the  real  one;  so  we  bearded  a 
car  that  took  us  along  the  "Old  Road,"  and  in  less  than  half  an 
hour  we  were  standing  on  the  shore  of  the  North  Sea  at  Scheven- 
ingen, one  of  the  most  fashionable  seaside  resorts  in  Europe. 
Its  season  of  two  months  begins  July  15th,  and  closes  September 
15th.  We  were  tokl  by  the  head  waiter  of  the  hotel,  where  we 
lunched  on  fresh  turbot,  that  all  the  rooms  at  the  various  hotels 
were  already  engaged.  The  Curhaus  with  its  broad  verandas  is 
the  most  prominent  building  and  is  quite  close  to  the  water.  The 
sea  has  so  steadily  encroached  upon  the  land,  that  it  threatens  the 
Curhaus;  so,  a  great  sea  wall  and  promenade,  extending  for  several 
miles  along  the  beach,  is  now  in  process  of  construction,  and,  at 
present,  spoils  the  pleasure  of  those  desiring  to  go  to  the  water's 
edge.  Beyond  the  line  of  grand  hotels,  whose  dining-rooms  over- 
look the  water,  were  numerous  piiikcn,  fishing-boats,  drawn  up 
on  the  sand  or  putting  out  to  sea;  while,  back  on  the  dunes,  lay 
the  village.  It  was  ingulfed  several  centuries  ago,  and  the  old 
Gothic  church  is  now  half  a  mile  nearer  the  sea  than  when 
erected.  Thirty  thousand  people,  it  is  said,  visit  Scheveningen  each 
season.  The  sands  are  as  firm  as  a  floor  and  as  fine  as  table 
salt.  During  bathing  hours,  the  beach  presents  a  very  gay  apjiear- 
ance,  bein^  literally  covered  with  wicker  chairs  shaped  like  bee- 
hives, tents,  and  portable  bath  houses  drawn  by  horses. 

We  had  great  sport  in  the  fish  market  with  a  couple  of  jolly 
fishwi\es.  I  wanted  to  buy  one  of  the  ornamental  headdresses 
that  they  wore,  luit  the  price  was  too  high.  A  numlx'r  of  storks 
are  kept  in  the  market,  at  tin'  public  expense;  doubtless,  because 
the  bird  figures  in  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  city. 

We  noticed  inscriptions  over  the  entrance  of  some  of  the  city 


f 


m'i' 


f 


iV 


\., 


^X-ssjO-,.. 


382  THE  HAGUE,   AMSTERDAM,   AND  DELFT 

residences,  and  country  houses  in  the  suliurbs.  Upon  in(]uiry  we 
found  that  they  were  sentiments,  placed  there  by  the  owner,  sucli 
as,  "Rest  and  Happiness,"  "Joy  and  Peace."  By  the  way,  the 
Dutch,  hke  the  Germans,  are  very  fond  of  sentimental  inscriptions 
on  many  things;  even  their  beer  mugs  are  so  decorated.  The  sliops, 
also,  have  certain  odd  features.  For  instance,  instead  of  colored 
lights  in  a  drug  store,  there  is  a  Turk's  head,  incircled  by  a  turban, 
to  indicate  the  dispenser  of  medicines. 

In  Holland,  we  are  able  to  get  postage  stamj^s  in  the  hotels, 
which  is  a  comfort.  In  Italy,  we  were  always  obliged  to  go  to  a 
tobacco  shop  for  them. 

Mrs.  M.  spent  yesterday  in  Amsterdam,  leaving  me  behind  to 
doctor  a  bad  cold,  and  rest.  She  returned  very  enthusiastic  over 
the  great,  commercial  capital  of  Holland,  which,  like  Venice,  stands 
on  piles  and  is  intersected  by  canals,  and  a  river.  However,  she 
says  it  differs  from  the  Italian  city,  as  it  possesses  broad  streets 
with  plenty  of  shade  trees.  The  canals  are  often  as  wide  as  small 
rivers,  and  are  crossed  by  bridges  traversed  by  street  cars.  There- 
fore, it  is  more  like  a  modern  city,  though  very  picturesque. 

The  North  Sea  Canal,  built  at  a  cost  of  35,000,000  florins, 
connects  Amsterdam  with  the  North  Sea.  In  the  middle  of  the 
great  dam  which  separates  the  North  Sea  Canal  from  the  Zuider- 
zee, are  tine  locks,  the  largest,  110  yds.  in  length;  the  gates,  of 
which  there  are  fitty-six,  weigh  thirty-four  tons,  each.  Mrs.  M. 
said  that,  although  the  locks  were  a  fine  sight,  they  did  not  seem 
to  her  any  more  wonderful  than  those  of  the  Sault  Ste.  Marie,  in 
Michigan.  Mrs.  M.  also  visited  the  Ryks  Museum,  wliich  covers 
nearly  three  acres  and  is  filled  with  valuable  works  of  art.  There 
she  saw  the  celebrated   "Night  Watch"  by   Rembrandt. 

As  she  entered  the  Zoological  Garden  (second  in  size  only  to 
that  of  London)  it  began  to  rain,  and  the  effect  upon  the  parrots, 
on  perches  beside  the  entrance,  was  comical.  They  set  up  such 
a  screaming  and  scolding  that  the  wild  beasts  were  aroused,  and, 
in  a  moment,  the  howls  and  roars  were  almost  deafening. 

Wilhelmina,  the  young,  uncrowned  Queen  of  Holland,  is  the 
daughter  of  William  HI.  Her  photographs  are  in  every  shop  \vind(-w 
and    public    building;  one  has  only  to  mention    her  name    to  bring 


384 


THE  HAGUE^  A.USTERDAAf,  AND  DELFT 


a  bright  smile  to  the  face  of  a  Hollander.  She  is  just  sixteen,  and 
in  two  years  will  ascend  the  throne.  Under  the  supervision  of  her 
mother,  Queen  Emma,  who  is  the  regent,  she  is  receiving  the  most 
careful  education,  and  already  speaks  several  languages  fluently. 
Wilhelmina  has  a  passion  for  pets,  and  owns  a  small  menagerie 
and  aviary.  In  her  walks,  she  is  generally  attended  by  a  big  Irish 
setter.  Skating  is  a  favorite  amusement  in  Holland,  and  it  was 
interesting  to  hear  a  shop  girl  speak  of  the  young  queen's  skill  in 
that  sport,  and  of   her  beauty  and  amiability.      Though    the   aver- 


ZOOLOGICAL   GARDEN,    AMSTERDAM 


age  Dutchman  is  satisfied  with  the  present  administration,  all  are 
looking  forward  to  the  reign  of  this  promising  sovereign,  whose 
good  sense  and  tenderness  of  heart  are  proverbial. 

Leaving  the  Hague,  July  ist,  we  made  a  stop  of  two  hours  at 
Delft,  on  our  way  to  Brussels,  via  Rotterdam.  It  is  a  quaint,  old 
town,  with  broad  ^anals,  running  through  the  center  of  the  main 
streets,  which  are  bordered  b}'  lime  trees.  The  river  Schie  flows 
by  it,  and  empties  into  the  Maas  at  Delfshaven.  On  the  Oude 
Delft,  one  of  the  prettiest  of  the  canals,  is  an  old  church  with 
a  leaning  tower,  built  in  the  15th  century.      Opposite,  is  the  Prinsen- 


386 


THE  HAGUE,  AMSTERDAM,  AND  DELET 


hof,  where  William  the  Silent,  the  founder  of  Dutch  independence, 
was  cruelly  assassinated,  in  1584,  by  a  man  named  Balthasar  Ger- 
hard. We  walked  up  the  staircase  where  the  deed  was  done, 
and  saw  the  ugly  bullet  holes  in  the  old  plaster.  A  tablet  is  set 
into  the  wall  above  the  spot  where  the  monarch  fell. 

The  porcelain  industry   of  Delft,  so  celebrated  in  the  i  7th  cen- 


WILHELMINA,  QUEEN    OF    HOLLAND 

tury,  has  been  revived  in  late  years,  and  a  great  quantity  of  Delft 
ware  is  sent  out,  monthly,  from  the  manufactory  of  Joost  Thooft. 
Mesdag's  designs  are  used  with  great  effect  by  the  potters. 

The  Dutch  women  are  inveterate  house-cleaners;  up  with  the 
sun,  they  do  not  cease  the  rounds  of  scrubbing  and  polishing,  until 
it  goes  down  again.      I   heard  an  amusing   storv,  once,  about  a  cer- 


THE  HAGUE.  AMSTERDAM,  AND  DELFT  387 

tain  Dutch  preacher,  who  was  unusually  successful  in  drawint;  large 
congregations  of  women.  He  interested  them  by  stating  that,  in 
heaven,  they  would  have  bright,  new  pots  and  pans,  and  jilenty  of 
soap  and  sand  to  scrub  with. 

It  is  a  pleasure  to  buv  cooked  food  at  the  little  shops,  for  the 
counters  are  so  white  and  clean,  the  knives  scoured  so  brightly. 
I  am  unable  to  satisfy  my  craving  for  Dutch  buns,  which  are  deli- 
catelv  browned  and  have  a  spicy  flavor  never  tasted  except  in  this 
land  of  good  cooks.  I  am  sure  that,  when  Dutch  women  go  to 
heaven,  the}-  are  kept  busy  supplying  the  winged  messengers  with 
these  buns,  that  are  so    ethereal   as    to    be    suitable    Angels'  Food. 

At  Rotterdam,  two  hours  more  were  spent  in  roaming  about 
the  wharves  and  walking  up  and  down  the  broad  Boompjes,  a 
quay  laid  out  like  a  park  with  trees,  flowers  and  well  kept  walks. 
Here  the  Dutch  steamers  plying  between  Rotterdam  and  neighbor- 
ing towns,  the  Rhine  and  foreign  jiorts,  load  and  unload  their 
freight. 

Standing  on  the  cjuay  and  gazing  at  a  ship  just  putting  out, 
whose  nationality  and  destination  were  alike  unknown  to  us,  we 
thought  of  the  beautiful  poem  of  "The  Ship,"  by  Wordsworth, 
and,  if  vou  are  not  already  tired  of  my  quotations,  my  friend,  vou 
will  read  it. 

Where  lies  the  land  to  which  yon  ship  must  go  ? 

Festively  she  puts  forth  in  trim  array; 

As  vigorous  as  a  lark  at  break  of  day; 
Is  she  for  tropic  suns,  or  polar  snow? 
What  boots  the  inquiry?    Neither  friend  nor  foe 

She  cares  for;  let  her  travel  where  she  may, 

She  finds  familiar  names,  a  beaten  way 
Ever  before  her,  and  a  wind  to  blow. 
Yet  still  I  ask,  what  haven  is  her  mark? 

And,  almost  as  it  was  when  ships  were  rare, 

(From  time  to  time,  like  pilgrims,  here  and  there 
Crossing  the  waters)  doubt,  and  something  dark, 

Of  the  old  sea  some  reverential  fear, 
Is  with  me  at  thy  farewell,  joyous  bark!" 


,'/       HoUanc 


CHAPTER   XXV 

BRUSSELS  AND  WATERLOO 

c^  ^§J?LMOST  everv  one  is  familiar  with  the  French  monetary 
system,  which  is  used  in  Belgium,  and  it  was  a  relief  to 
reach  a  country  wliere  we  could  count  our  change  without 
^^^cjj^  spending  several  minutes  in  the  operation.  The  franc, 
^^^  like  the  peseta  and  the  lira,  is  worth  about  twenty  cents 
our  money,  and  is  divided  into  a  hundred  centimes.  In 
d  and  in  Austria,  we  paid  our  bills  in  florins.  After 
ciossnig  the  Belgian  frontier  (.)ne  might  easily  imagine  himself 
in  France,  for,  although  Flemish  is  still  used  in  some  of  the  prov- 
inces, French  is  the  official  language.  Nearly  every  one  speaks  it, 
and  most  of  the  signs  and  the  newspapers  are  also  in  French. 

Brussels  (population  m  1892,  183,800)  is  a  handsome  citv,  and 
has  an  air  ol  importance  and  progress.  In  the  u.pjier  town,  which 
is  built  upon  the  heights,  are  the  royal  palaces,  the  embassies  and 
mansions  of  the  nobility.  On  the  Rue  Royale  is  the  house  where 
the  celebrated  ball  was  given  bv  the  Duchess  of  Richmond,  June 
i6th,  1815,  on  the  eve  of  the  battle  of  Ouatre  Bras.*  Some  claim 
that  the  ball  occurred  on  the  evening  before  the  battle  of  Waterloo, 
but  this  has  been  decided  to  be  impossible.  The  conflict  at  Quatre 
Bras  was  so  terrible  that  officers  who  took  part  in  it  could  scarcely 
have  attended  festivities  on  the  following  night;  moreover,  several 
officers  were  found  dead  or  wounded  on  the  battlefield  of  Ouatre 
Bras  in  the  very  dress  in  which  the\'  were  dancing,  when  sum- 
moned to  the  fray. 

"There  was  a  sound  of  revelry  by  night, 
And  Belgium's  capital  had  gather' d  then 

*  A  small   town    about  four  miles  from   Genappe.      Waterloo   lies   half  way 

between  Ouatre  Bras  and  Brussels. 

388 


B/^rSSf:LS  .LVD    WATERLOO  389 

Her  Beauty  and  her  Chivalry,  and  briglit 
The  lamp  shone  o'er  fair  women  and  brave  men; 
A  thousand  hearts  beat  happily;  and  when 
Music  arose  with  its  voluptuous  swell. 
Soft  eves  look'd  love  to  eN'es  which  spake  again, 
And  all  went  merry  as  a  marriage-bell; 
But  husli!   harkl   a  deep  sound  strikes  like  a  rising  knell! 

"Did  ye  not  hear  it? — No;   'twas  but  the  wind, 
Or  the  car  rattling  o'er  the  ston}'  street; 
On  with  the  dance!   let  jov  be  unconfined; 
No  sleep  till  morn,  when  Youth  and  Pleasure  meet 
To  chase  the  glowing  Hours  with  fl\ing  feet — 
But.  harkl — that  heavy  sound  breaks  in  once  more, 
As  if  the  clouds  its  echo  would  repeat; 
And  nearer,  clearer,  deadlier  than  before! 
Arm!  arm!  it  is — it  is — the  cannon's  opening  roar. 

"Ah  1  then  and  there  was  hurrying  to  and  fro. 
And  gathering  tears,  and  tremblings  of  distress. 
And  cheeks  all  pale,  which  but  an  hour  ago 
Blush'd  at  the  praise  of  their  own  loveliness; 
And  there  were  sudden  partings,  such  as   press 
The  life  from  out  young  hearts,  and  choking  sighs 
Which  ne'er  might  be  repeated;  who  could  guess 
If  ever  more  should  meet  those  mutual  eyes, 

Since  upon  night  so  sweet  such  awful  morn  could  rise. 

"And  there  was  mounting  in  hot  haste:   the  steed. 
The  mustering  squadron,  and  the  clattering  car. 
Went  pouring  forward  with  impetuous  speed. 
And  swiftly  forming  in  the  ranks  of  war; 
And  the  deep  thunder  peal  on  peal  afar; 
And  near,  the  beat  of  the  alarming  drum 
Roused  up  the  soldier  ere  the  morning  star; 
While  throng'd  the  citizens  with  terror  dumb. 
Or  whispering,  with  white  lips — "The  foe!     They  come! 
thev  come!  " 

The  Palace  of  Justice  is  considered  the  largest  architectural 
work  of  the  19th  century,  its  area  exceeding  that  of  St.  Peter's  at 
Rome.  It  is  oriental  in  st}ie,  having  an  immense  base  from  which 
a  pyramidal  structure  rises.      From  the  terrace  of  this  building,  one 


BA'CSSELS  AXD    ]VATRRLOO  391 

obtains  a  splendid  \ic\v  of  the  lower  town,  which  is  intersected  by 
small  canals  and  brandies  of  the  Senne  river.  The  fagade  of  the 
Hotel  de  Ville,  *  in  the  lower  town,  is  literally  covered  with  statues. 
The  tower    and  turrets  were    onc(;    covered  with    plates  of  gold. 

Directly  opposite  is  a  remarkable  specimen  of  semi-Gothic 
architecture,  the  Maison  tlu  Roi.  It  was  in  this  buildiuL;  tliat  the 
Counts  Egmont  and  Hoorn  passed  the  night  of  June  4th,  1 568, 
following  the  sham  trial  accorded  them  by  the  infamous  Duke  of 
Alva,   and  previous  to  their  execution. 

No  industr}^  so  appeals  to  the  feminine  taste  as  that  of  lace- 
making,  for  which  Brussels  is  especially  noted.  There  are  two  kinds 
of  "real  lace;"  "needle  point,"  made  with  simple  thread  and  needle, 
and  consequently,  the  most  valuable,  and  "pillow  lace, "  made  on  a 
cushion  by  means  of  pins  and  bobbins.  The  latter  was  invented 
in  Flanders.  These  two  stvles  date  from  the  beginning  of  the 
1 6th  century,  though  lace  in  the  shape  of  darned  net,  twisted  loops 
and  embroidery  was  known  long  before  that  period.  The  earl}' 
patterns  in  "needle  point,"  doubtless,  originated  in  Greece,  were 
transported  to  ^'enice,  and  thence  to  Flanders.  We  spent  an  hour 
watching  the  women  at  work  in  one  of  the  lace  factories.  They 
were,  without  exception,  the  most  pathetic-looking  human  beings 
I  ever  saw.  Their  faces  were  colorless,  and  their  eyes  dim  and 
weak  from  the  constant  strain.  Probablv  no  toilers  are  so  poorly 
paid  or  so  hard-worked  as  these  poor  creatures.  One,  who  was 
making  a  very  costly  piece  of  "needle  point,"  looked  more  like  a 
galvanized  mummy  than  a  woman. 

In  doing  this  work,  the  pattern  is  first  sketched  on  paper, 
attached  to  a  piece  of  linen.  Threads  are  then  laid  upon  the  lines 
of  the  design  and  caught  through  to  the  linen  by  stitches,  thus 
forming  a  skeleton  design  of  thread.  The  interstices  are  then  filled 
in  with  a  needle  and  thread,  and,  when  the  pattern  is  entirely 
finished,  the  stitches,  which  caught  the  skeleton  design  to  the  linen, 
are  cut,  and  the  lace,  freed  from  its  support.  With  "pillow  lace, " 
the  pattern  drawn  on  the  paper  is  pierced  with  minute  holes  by 
an  expert,   who  marks   the    places  where  the  principal    pins  are    to 

*To\vn  Hall. 


392 


BRCSSELS  AND    WATERLOO 


be  stuck,  for  guiding  the  threads.  The  pattern  is  then  sewed  to 
the  cushion,  the  ends  of  the  threads  on  the  different  bobbins  being 
fastened  to  the  top.  We  saw  one  girl  working  with  300  bobbins 
on  a  piece  of  lace  not  over  ten  inches  deep. 

There  were  extensive  show-rooms,  where  quantities  of  lace 
were  clisplaved  for  sale,  and  where  voluble  saleswomen  discoursed 
upon  the  low  price  of  the  gossamer  fabric  and  the  starvation 
wages  of    the  makers.      It    seems  a  sin  to  pay  so    small  a  sum  as 


ON,    WATERLOO 

they  ask  for  lace;  it  is  fully  a  thnxl  less  than  in  the  United  States. 
One  feels  like  making  a  gift  to  the  women,  wlio  have  no  share  in 
the  profits,    and  yet  do  all  the  work. 

Another  point  of  interest  is  the  Wiertz  Museum,  once  the  home 
of  the  eccentric  painter  Wiertz  (1806- 1865)  who  refu.sed  to  sell  his 
pictures,  and  painted  for  the  love  of  his  art,  alone.  Alter  his  death, 
the  government  purchased  his  residence  and  collections,  and  now 
admits  the  public  free  of  charge,  just  as  the  artist  would  have 
wished.  The  subjects  are  mostly  of  a  grewsome  order,  as  "Re- 
suscitation of  a  person  buried  alive,"  and  "Demented,"  painted  in 
a  preparation  neither  water  color  nor  oil,  but  a  mixture  of  the  two; 
in  a  kind  of  distemiier,  *   I   should  sav. 


*  Painting  in  colors  mixed  with  fig  juice  or  white  of  egg,  instead  of  oil. 


I  F         F         E^LINL."^0N 


394 


BRUSSELS  AND    WATERLOO 


The  trip  to  Waterloo,  one  of  the  world's  great  battlefields, 
was  both  instructive  and  delightful.  After  an  omnibus  ride  of  one 
and  a  half  miles  from  the  station  of  Braine  I'Alleud,  we  alighted  at 
the  Hill  of  the  Lion,  an  artificial  mound  occupying  the  exact  spot 
where  the  Prince  of  Orange  was  wounded  in  the  battle;  it  is 
directly  back  of  the  place  where  the  regiments  of  cavahy,  the  iiower 
of  the  two  armies,  engaged  desperately  in  the  decisive  struggle. 
About  250  steps  lead  to  the  summit,  where  there  is  a  bronze  lion; 
a  Belgian   lion,    our    guide    informed    us,    as   its  tail    hangs  between 


LA    HAIE   SAiNTE 


the  legs,  while  that  of  the  British  lion  is  curled  up  over  its  back. 
Our  party  consisted  of  four  English  tourists,  and  tour  Americans. 
The  English  suide,  who  has  lectured  on  the  battlefield  for  vears, 
knows  every  stick  and  stone,  and  I  might  almost  say,  every  blade 
of  grass. 

As  we  stood  beside  the  lion,  the  most  important  part  of  the 
field  could  be  seen.  Before  us  was  the  low,  undulating  line  of 
hills  where  the  allied  army  commanded  by  Wellington  took  its 
position;  to  the  left,  at  right  angles,  ran  a  highroad  almost  on  a 
line  with  the  monument;  on  that  road  was  the  farm.  La  Haie 
Sainte,  defended  by  a  battalion  of  Germans.  Just  one  mile  distant 
on  the  same  road  lay  the  farm.  La  Belle  Alliance,  Napoleon's 
headquarters.      Halfway  between  the  two   farms,   so  that  the  three 


396 


BRUSSELS  AND    WATERLOO 


positions  formed  a  triangle,   stood  tlie  old  Chateau  of  Hougomont, 
defended  bv  troops  of  the  allied  army. 

When  the  battle  began,  the  two  armies  were  drawn  up  in 
semicircles,  facing  each  other.  There  were  about  68,000  men,  all 
told,  in  the  allied  army,  and  in  that  of  Napoleon,  about  72,000. 
The  Duke's  command  was  made  up  of  four  or  five  diiferent  ele- 
ments, many  of  the  soldiers,  raw  and  unreliable,  whereas  their 
antagonists  were  admirably  disciplined  and  full  of  confidence.  The 
French  artillcrv  also  was  far  superior  to  the  English.  The  rain, 
which  had  fallen  steadi!\"   throughout   the   niglit,    had  so  thoroughly 


saturated  the  ground  that  the  moving  of  cannon  was  a  difficult 
task,  and  several  of  the  best  hours  of  the  morning  were  wasted  by 
Napoleon  in  arranging  his  troops  and  guns,  preparatory  to  the 
attack. 

It  is  said  that  the  iirst  shot  was  fired  trom  the  Chateau  of 
Hougomont,  which  the  French  endeavored  to  take  by  assault; 
manv  times  during  the  dav,  the  same  attempt  was  made,  only  to 
result  in  failure,  the  thick  walls  resisting  shot  and  shell,  and  the 
trees  in  the  grove  furnishing  natural  redoubts  for  the  Brit- 
ishers. 

La  Haie  Sainte  was  captured  liy  the  French,  about  five  in  the 
afternoon.      The   numbers  of  the  allied  arnn'   had   been   terribly  re- 


LEOPOLD    II,    KING    OF    BELGIUM 


398 


BRUSSELS  AND   WATERLOO 


duced,  hut  their  courage  still  remained  unbroken,  and  the  victories 
of  the  day  about  balanced.  In  the  meantime,  relief  had  arrived 
in  the  shape  of  the  Prussian  troops  headed  by  the  faithful  Bliicher, 
who  had  promised  Wellington  to  come  to  his  assistance.  He  had 
dragged  his  men  through  the  marshy  valleys  of  St.  Lambert  and 
the  Lasne,  with  a  determination  second  onl}'  to  that  of  Napoleon 
himself.  It  was  about  five  o'clock,  when  the  Prussians  opened  fire 
from  Frichemont,  and  succeeded  in  a  few  hours,  after  severe  losses, 
in  reaching  and  occupying  Planchenois,    a    little  to  the  rear  of    the 


HOUGOMONT 


French  center  at  La  Belle  Alliance.  During  that  time,  the  French 
attacked  the  allied  center  and  the  famous  charge  of  Maitland's 
Guards,  who  had  been  concealed  behind  the  hills,  took  place.  The 
French  army  was  completely  routed  and,  at  last.  Napoleon  gave 
up,  in  his  despair  endeavoring  to  dash  into  the  thickest  of  the 
hght,  that  he  might  end  his  disgrace  by  death;  but  he  was  pre- 
vented by  his  Guards.  About  eight  o'clock,  he  gave  this  final  order 
to  his  troops,  "Tout  est  perdu!  Sauve  qui  pent!"*  and  the  de- 
feated soldiers  began  their  hurried  retreat. 

The  guide  explained  that  the  meadows  before  us  were  a  vast 
cemetery,   where  trenches  had  been    dug  in  which  men  and  horses 


*  "All  is  lost!     Save  yourselves  if  \o\\  can  I 


Ii/iCSS£LS  J-VD    WATERLOO  399 

were  buried  together.  It  took  three  days  to  clear  the  field  of  the 
dead,   of  whom  it  is  estimated  that  there  were  50,000. 

Various  officers  made  requests  as  to  the  naming  of  the  battle, 
but  they  ditiered  from  one  another,  each  wishing  it  to  be  named 
from  the  quarter  where  he  had  been  engaged.  The  Duke,  there- 
fore, thought  best  to  avoid  bad  feeling  by  naming  it  after  the 
village  of  Waterloo,  where  his  headquarters  were  located,  three 
miles  from  the  field. 

Thus  ended  this  decisive  battle,  in  which  three  world-renowned 
commanders  had  taken  part.  Napoleon's  iron  will  was  broken. 
Later,    he  was  exiled,    and  died  at  St.    Helena,    May  5th,    1821. 

Leopold  II.,  the  present  king  of  the  Belgians,  was  crowned, 
December  loth,  1865.  Though  he  is  deemed  penurious,  and  lack- 
ing in  some  agreeable  qualities,  Belgium  has  certain  y  prospered 
amazingly  during  his  reign.  Queen  Henriette  Marie,  a  slender, 
active  woman,  is  much  respected  by  her  subjects.  Like  all  the 
rest  of  the  world,  this  royal  pair  have  had  their  trials,  not  the 
least  of  them  being  the  demented  condition  of  the  ex-Empress 
Charlotte  of  Mexico,    widow  of    Maximilian,   and    the  King's  sister. 

The  more  we  see  of  Brussels,  the  more  favorably  we  are  im- 
pressed by  it.  It  seems  a  cit}'  of  fine  residences  rather  than  a 
commercial  center.  The  working  people  are  examples  of  courtesy 
and  hospitality,  and  an  air  of  court  elegance  pervades  the  entire 
metropolis. 

"Truth-teller  was  our  England's  Alfred  named; 
Truth-lover  was  our  English  Duke. 
Whatever  record  leap  to  light 
He  never  shall  be  shamed."  * 

*Lord  Tennvson. 


91 


CHAPTER    XXVI 
PARIS 

'T  last  we  are  in  Paris!  —  the  Mecca  of  the  tourist,  a 
metropohs  of  surli  individuaht\-,  desjiite  its  cosmopoHtan 
population,  that  no  one,  be  he  scribe  or  orator,  can  ex- 
actly set  forth  its  irresistible  charm.  Nevertheless,  the 
city  is  a  disappointment  to  me,  in  many  ways.  Though 
:>r  it  is  laid  out  on  a  grand  scale,  the  buildings  are  too  uniform 
and  the  architecture  is  generally  florid.  A  spirit  of  gaiety  is  in 
the  very  atmosphere,  but  it  seems  to  come  principally  from  the 
classes  who  frequent  the  dance  halls,  or  occupy  the  seats  in  front 
of  the  innumerable  wine  shops.  Paris  seems  to  be  all  open-air 
cafes,  and  it  is  painful  to  see  how  many  young  men  and,  alas! 
women  too,  sit  at  the  tables,  drinking  the  body-wrecking,  soul- 
destroying  absinthe.*  Paris  flaunts  her  vices  in  the  face  of  the 
stran<rer,  and  seems  amused  if  he  is  discomfited.  We  are  told 
not  to  judge  the  Parisian  wife  and  mother  bv  the  fashionably 
dressed  women,  with  rouged  cheeks  and  pencilled  brows,  that 
frequent  the  shops  and  theaters,  and  drive  in  the  Bois  de  Boulogne. 
It  is  to  be  regretted  that  we  see  so  few  women  with  that  whole- 
someness  of  face  and  manner  to  be  expected  in  the  mothers  of  a 
nation.  However,  it  is  midsummer,  and  doubtless,  many  people 
are  at  the  summer  resorts. 

On  the  dav  after  our  arrival,  we  sought  to  obtain  a  bird's-eye 
view  of  the  citv  from  the  Eiffel  Tower,  in  order  to  fix  its  plan  in 
our  minds.  In  spite  of  the  strength  of  this  relic  of  the  Exposi- 
tion of  i88q,  it  is  airv  and  graceful,  and  its  iron  tranu'work,  0S4 
ft.  in  height,  is  no  detriment  to  the  environment.  Standing  upon 
the  topmost  platform,  we  could  see  that  Paris  occupies  both  banks 

*  A  cordial  of   braiuh'  flavored  ^\■ith  wormwood. 

400 


PARIS 


401 


of  the   Seine,  and    that    there    are    two  islands    in    the  river,  within 
the  citv  hmits,  namelv,  the  Cite  and  St.    Louis. 

The   Cite  was  the  seat   of    ancient    Paris.      There,  the    Cathe- 
dral of   Notre    Dame    was    established    in    i  163.      Near  by,  on  the 

site  of  the  old  royal  pal- 
ace, is  the  Palace  of  Jus- 
tice, the  Sainte  Chapelle,  * 
and  the  Conciergerie. 
The  latter  is  a  prison, 
where  most  of  the  cele- 
brated victims  of  the 
Re\olution  were  confined; 
among  others,  Marie  An- 
toinette and  Robespierre. 
At  the  southeast  end  of 
the  Cite  is  the  morgue, 
where  bodies  of  persons 
who  have  met  with  vio- 
lent deaths  are  exposed 
for  identification. 

On  the  right  bank  of 
the  Seine  is  the  Place  de 
la  Bastille,  where  for- 
merly stood  the  great  cas- 
tle-prison; a  splendid  col- 
umn bearing  the  Genius 
iif  Liberty  now  marks 
ihe  spot. 

The  Place  de  la  Con- 
corde, probably  the  largest 
^'^^^^  ™""  square  in  Europe,  is  situ- 

ated between  the  gardens  of  the  Tuileriesf  and  the  Champs  Elvsees. 


In    this  square,    between    1793 
died    bv  the  guillotine. 


and    1795,    more  than   2,800  persons 

to    the    place 


Brought    in  a  common   cart 


*  Chapel  connected  with  the  old  ro3'al  palace. 

"j"  Tlie  royal  palace  destroyed  by  the  Communists  in  1S71. 


402 


PARIS 


where  they  had  often  driven  in  state,  the  sovereigns,  Louis  XVI. 
and  Marie  Antoinette,  were  put  to  death  by  the  people  who  thirsted 
tor  their  blood. 

Beyond  this  fatal  spot,  at  the  top  of  the  long  avenue  of  the 
Champs  Elysees,  rises  the  Arc  de  Triomphe  de  I'Etoile,  called 
the  Arch  of  the  Star  because  of  the  twelve    avenues    that  radiate 


s^i-^i^-^.r^r' 


r^ 


NOTRE    DAME 


from  it.  One  of  them  leads  to  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  a  forest 
park  of   2,250  acres,  including  the  lakes. 

Near  the  Eiffel  Tower,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  is  the 
Champs  de  Mars,  an  open  space  where,  on  July  14th,  1790,  the 
King,  with  others,  took  the  oath  of  fidelity  to  the  new  constitution; 
here,  also,  three  important  expositions  have  been  held  within  the 
last  thirty  years. 

Far  to  the  north  is  tlie  hill,  Montmartre,  while  incircling  the 
city  are  small  towns;  St.  Cloud,  Versailles,  Fontainebleau  and  St. 
Denis  being  the  most  important.  The  panorama,  as  we  took  a 
final  look,  seemed  like  a  gigantic  piece  of  tapestry  woven  in  shades 
of  gray,  brown  and  green.  What  a  history  this  tapestry  suggests! 
the  varying  historv  of    a    long  line  of  sovereigns  and  their  restless 


PARIS 


403 


subjects;  of  times  of  peace;  of  bloody  strife;  and  yet  these  seem- 
ingly capricious  people  have  made  their  power  felt  to  the  utter- 
most parts  of  the  globe;  they  have  been  among  the  foremost  in 
Science,  Art  and  Letters. 

From  the  Eiffel  Tower,  we  drove  to  the  Luxembourg  Palace, 
erected  (16 15- 1620)  for  Marie  de  Aledicis,  second  wife  of  Henry 
IV.,    to    resemble    her    old    home,    the    Pitti    Palace,    in   Florence. 


fc--. 


?;,m* 


GROTESQUE    01.    tiOTRE    DAME 

Although  the  French  structure  is  impressive,  and  the  gardens  are 
beautiful  with  unicjue  fountains  and  shaded  walks,  it  does  not  com- 
pare with  the  Italian  palace.  A  portion  of  the  building  is  used 
by  the  Senate.  In  a  new  building,  connected  with  the  palace,  the 
works  of  living  artists  are  exhibited.  Ten  years  after  the  death  of 
a  distinguished  master,  his  works  are  usually  transferred  from  this 
gallery  to  the  Louvre,  or  to  provincial  museums. 


m  ^ 


PLACE    DE    LA    BASTILLE 


PARIS 


405 


In  the  Luxembourg  is  Detaille's  painting  of  tlic  "Soldier's 
Dream, "  which  we  especially  admired.  It  represents  a  battlefield 
at  break  c^f  day.  The  sleeping  soldiers  are  stretched  upon  the 
ground  in  every  conceivable  position;  overhead,  in  the  soft,  gray 
clouds,  from  which  the  blackness  of  the  night  is  just  rolling  away, 
and  touched  bv  the  first  glinting  light  of  the  coming  morn,   is  the 


THE    LUXEMBOL  F-'_. 


army  marching  to  battle,  with  Ixanners  fl}ing  and  the  light  of  antici- 
pated victory  on  each  beaming  face. 

Not  far  from  the  Luxembourg,  is  a  group  of  important  build- 
ings, the  Pantheon,  the  Sorbonne  and  the  church  of  St.  Etienne 
du  Mont.  The  former  occupies  the  site  of  the  tomb  of  St.  Gene- 
vieve, the  patron  saint  of  Paris,  who  by  her  purity  and  faith  is 
said  to  have  persuaded  Attila,  the  Hun,  to  abandon  an  attack  on 
Paris.  She  went  forth  alone  to  meet  this  warrior,  whose  very 
name  struck  terror  to  the  hearts  of  the  bravest,  so  dreadful  was 
the  record  of  the  cities  plundered  and  the  thousands  slain  by  him. 
The  Pantheon  has  the  t(_)rm  of  a  Greek  cross  surmounted  by  a 
vast  dome;  it  is  reached  by  a  flight  of  broad  steps;  the  sculptured 
relief  in  the  tympanum  represents  France  bestowing  wreaths  upon 
her  sons,  illustrating  the  inscription,  '  'Aux  grands  lioninies  la  patrie 


CHILDHOOD    OF    STE.    GENEVIEVE 


4o8 


PARIS 


reconnaissantc."  *  Splendid  frescoes  cover  the  walls  of  the  interior. 
Especially  charming  and  poetical  is  the  work  of  Puvis  de  Cha- 
vannes  in  his  portrayal  of  the  childhood  of  St.  Genevieve,  and 
Lenepvcu  has  noblv  depicted  the  heroism  of  Joan  of  Arc.  Below  in 
the  vaults  are  the  tombs;  among  others  of  note,  we  saw  that  of 
Victor  Hugo. 

On  the  Place  du  Pantheon  is  the  church  of  St.  Etienne  du 
Mont,  with  a  memorial  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Genevieve,  and 
containing  her  remains,  inclosed  in  a  silver  and  gold  casket. 


TOMB    OF  VICTOR    HUGO 

We  were  greath/  interested  in  the  Sorbonne,  a  great  institu- 
tion of  learning  founded  bv  Robert  de  Sorbon,  which  occupies  the 
old  building  erected  in  1629  by  Cardinal  Richelieu.  The  new 
building  is  not  vet  finished.  Within  the  Sorbonne  are  several 
masterpieces  of  Puvis  de  Chavannes.  On  one  of  the  walls  in  the 
hall  where  lectures  on  chemistry  are  given,  is  a  lurid  painting  by 
Besnard,  dated  1896.  It  is  called  the  "h^)irthof  Eifc  from  Death;" 
one  half  of  it  is  like  fire;  the  other,  like  sunlight.  In  the  center, 
under    the    blazing    rays    of    a    noonday    sun,   and  h'ing  with  head 


'The  grateful  Country  to  her  great  men." 


TOMB    uF    bTE.    GENEV.EVE 


FARfS 


411 


downward  on  a  wave  of  vegetation,  is  the  nude  corpse  of  a  woman. 
An  infant  ghoul  is  seeking  to  draw  nourishment  from  the  lifeless 
bosom,  while  a  swarm  of  butterflies  feeds  on  the  germs  coming  from 
the  mouth;  evervwhcre  in  the  design,  one  sees  life  sustained  by 
death. 

Every  evening  after  dinner,  we  take  a  ride  on  the  top  of  a 
double-decked  omnibus,  selecting  a  new  route  each  time.  This  is 
a  simple  matter,  as  we  are  staying  at  the  Hotel  Ste.  Marie  on  the 


I'Vlt::    >  iF    RICHELIEU,  CHURCH    OF    THE    SORBONNE 

Rue  de  Rivoli,  about  a  block  from  the  Louvre,  where  these  vehicles 
from  all  parts  of  the  citv  stop.  Under  the  guardianship  of  the 
driver  and  conductor,  we  can  ride  into  the  most  dangerous  quarters 
of  Paris  and,  without  descending  from  our  lofty  perch,  see  a  great 
deal  of  the  life  of  the  common  people;  for  the  weather  is  so  warm 
that  they  almost  live  out  of  doors.  We  noticed  several  families, 
one  night,  eating  their  supper  in  the  open  air.  Thev  had  brought 
out  rickety  tables,  and  stuck  a  candle  in  a  bottle,  for  illumination. 
The  cafe  tables  in  these  quarters  are  crowded  with  dissipated- 
looking  men  and  reckless  women,  but  nowhere  in  Paris  does  one 
see  such  abject   poverty  as  in  Italian  cities.     There  is    a  sprightli- 


412 


PARIS 


ness,    an    energy    about    the  Parisians  that  is  attractive,  no  matter 
what  their  surroundings  may  be. 

Though  many  Americans  pride  themselves  on  their  superior 
way  of  doing  things,  they  do  not  know  how  to  Hve  as  well  as  their 
French  cousins.  Here,  both  rich  and  poor  have  their  hours  of 
leisure;   thev    do    not    grind    cverv   moment  as  we  do,  but  take  an 


HOTEL   DE   VILLE 

hour  each  da\-  to  sit  down  and  sip  their  wine  or  coffee  and  rest. 
How  little  we  Americans  know  how  to  rest!  Many  of  our  men 
stand  up  at  a  counter  to  eat  a  luncheon,  spending,  at  the  most, 
ten  minutes  over  it,  while  the  Parisian  will  take  a  half  hour,  out  of 
the  busiest  part  of  the  day,  to  drink  a  glass  of  beer;  but  in  that 
half  hour,  he  will  relax  nerves  and  muscles,  and  be  better  prepared 
in  mind  and  bod}-  to  continue  his  work.  I  heard  the  other  day  of 
a  dealer  in  picture  frames,  who  every  summer  hangs  out  a  sign: 
"Gone  to  the  seashore  for  three  weeks."  Here  is  a  man  with 
gumjition  enough  to  rest!  He  shuts  up  his  sh<.)p  wliile  he  and  his 
employees  take  a  vacation.  What  a  contrast  to  our  average  busi- 
ness man!  His  wife  goes  to  the  seashore,  while  he  stays  behind 
and  works  all  the  harder  to  pay  her  bills. 


PARIS  413 

One  evening,  the  omnibus  took  us  up  to  Montmartre,  past  the 
old  cemetery,  and  down  a  broad  avenue  where  nightly  turn  the 
huge,  red  sails  of  thr  Moulin  Rouge,""  one  of  the  popular  dance 
halls;  a  mill  that  grinds  out  all  the  sweetness  and  innocence  of 
the  youth  that  enter  its  doors. 

We  have  taken  our  meals  at  many  difierent  restaurants  during 
the  three  weeks  that  we  have  been  in  Paris,  and  have  enjoyed  the 
French  cooking,  which  is  sujiposed  to  be  unexcelled;  but  we  prefer 
the  Dutch.  In  Holland,  we  found  more  appetizing  food  than  in 
any  other  country.  The  other  day  we  dined  at  a  modest  little 
establishment,  where  the  price  for  dinner  is  fixed  at  two  francs. 
We  were  permitted  to  choose  from  the  menu,  and,  of  the  side 
dishes,  selected  one  of  chicken,  with  a  very  high-sounding  name. 
Imagine  our  consternation,  when  there  was  placed  before  us  a  slice  of 
toast  on  which  were  the  head,  comb,  and  yellow  feet  of  a  rooster. 
When  we  recovered  from  our  astonishment,  we  had  a  heartv  laugh, 
for  they  looked  so  comical.  What  there  was  to  eat  on  the  head 
and  claws  is  still  a  mystery,  as  you  may  be  sure  that  the  dish 
went  back  to  the  kitchen,  untouched. 

In  order  to  observe  the  manner  of  serving  in  one  of  the  best 
Parisian  restaurants,  we  took  dinner  one  day  at  the  Cafe  de  la 
Paix,  connected  with  the  Grand  Hotel.  I  can  assure  you  that  we 
left  with  a  greater  respect  for  American  modes  of  living  than  ever. 
The  table  appointments  did  not  equal  ours,  nor  was  the  meal  as 
well  cooked,  in  our  estimation.  When  the  roast  was  served,  a 
waiter  wheeled  a  small  stand,  upon  which  it  was  placed,  close  to 
our  table  and  sliced  the  meat,  thick  or  thin,  rare  or  well  done,  as 
we  desired.  The  prices  are  exorbitant  at  such  grand  establish- 
ments, and,  if  one  dares  to  give  the  waiter  a  moderate  fee,  he  gen- 
erally stares  at  it,  and  then  at  the  donor,  and,  after  waiting  a 
moment  to  see  if  is  to  be  enlarged,  walks  off  with  an  air  of  dis- 
dain, and  without  a  word  of   thanks. 

An  American  is  amazed  to  see  how  the  French  treat  the 
' '  Staff  of  Life. "  The  bread  is  baked  in  loaves  about  three  feet 
long,  and  sold  bv  weight.      In    delivering    it    to    the  families  in  an 


*  Red  Mill. 


414 


PARIS 


apartment  house  (and  few  people  occupy  an  entire  house),  the 
baker's  boy  stands  the  loaves  on  the  floor,  leaning  them  against  the 
door.  They  are  never  wrapped,  and  it  is  a  common  thing  to  see 
servants  coming  from  the  bakeshops  with  bread  under  their  arms. 
One  of  the  most  important  churches  of  Paris  is  the  Madeleine. 
It  was  founded  by  Louis  XY.  in  1764,  but  not  completed  until 
1842,  although  several  architects  tampered  with  it,  during  the  reign 
r 


THE    MADELEINE 


of  Napoleon  I.  and  Louis  XVIII.  Over  12,000,000  francs  are 
said  to  have  been  spent  upon  this  church,  which  has  several  times 
been  the  scene  of  riots  and  massacres.  It  is  like  a  Greek  temple 
in  appearance,  being  without  windows,  and  surrounded  bv  a  colon- 
nade. During  the  Commune,  nearly  every  house  about  the  Ala- 
dcleine  was  destroyed  by  fire,  or  riddled  by  bullets,  but  the  church 
suffered  little  injury,  so  massive  is  its  construction. 

Another  liuilding  in  the  classic  style  is  the  Bourse,*  which  is 
open  for  business  everv  week  day  at  noon.  The  shouts  of  the 
brokers  are  deafening  about  two  o'clock,  when  tlie  great  hall  pre- 
sents a  lively  appearance. 

*  The  Stock  Exchange. 


41 6  PARIS 

As  vou  remember,  M.  jean  Francois  Raffaelli,  the  well  known 
French  artist,  has  visited  America,  where  I  became  quite  well  ac- 
quainted with  him.  One  afternoon,  we  paid  a  visit  to  his  home 
in  Paris  and  were  most  delightfullv  entertained.  He  lives  in  a 
pleasant  house  about  which  are  some  fine  old  trees  and  a  pretty 
garden,  a  rare  thing  in  a  citv  where  land  is  so  valuable.  We  found 
the  painter  in  his  studio,  looking  younger  and  more  truly  Parisian 
than  ever.  He  presented  his  daughter,  a  maiden  witli  the  head  of 
a  Greek  goddess,  and  as  sweet  and  modest  as  a  June  rosebud. 
After  a  chat  about  people  and  art,  we  were  shown  into  the  dining- 
room.  The  walls  of  this  room,  and  those  of  the  studio,  are  covered 
with  linen  painted  by  the  artist,  in  a  conventional  design.  All  over 
the  house  are  familiar  sketches,  in  oils,  water  colors,  bronze  and 
plaster,  of  the  characteristic  life  of  Paris.  If  ever  a  man  was  im- 
bued with  the  spirit  of  his  native  place  it  is  Rafifaelli.  Nature  has 
been  more  than  liberal  in  her  favors  to  this  son  of  France.  Gifted 
with  a. keen  perception,  he  has  the  power  of  delineating  the  ma- 
terialism in  his  countrymen,  and  yet  is  spiritual  enough  to  make 
one  feel,  as  Millet  does,  all  the  poetry  in  seemingly  sordid  things. 
There  was  one  sketch  of  an  old  street  sweeper  resting  on  his  broom, 
his  toil-worn  hands  for  the  moment  idle,  while  his  thoughts  seemed 
to  wander  afar  ofif;  perhaps,  to  the  time  of  youth  and  love,  when 
life  was  all  before  him.  As  I  studied  the  face,  all  the  unsatisfied 
longing  of  early  manhood,  all  the  resignation  of  advanced  age 
seemed  to  strive  for  mastery  in  the  wrinkled  visage.  Taking  up 
mv  autograph  album,  the  artist  made  a  few  strokes  of  the  pen 
under  his  name,  and  lo!  there  was  a  woman,  her  hair  blowing 
across  her  face,  a  Parisian  woman:  there  could  be  none  like  her; 
she  is  inimitable! 

Raflaelli  objects  to  being  called  an  Impressionist,  as  he  .so  often 
is;  neither  does  he  believe  in  the  term,  Realist  or  Idealist.  He 
affirms  that  all  true  artists  are  both  realists  and  idealists;  Raphael, 
for  example,  though  considered  the  head  of  the  Idealist  School, 
was  a  realist  when  he  painted  the  "Incendio  del  Borgo, "  in  the 
Vatican.  Courbet,  who  prided  himself  on  his  realism,  was  an 
idealist  when  he  said  he  would  paint  stones  "so  as  to  make  them 
think."     RafTaelli  prefers  to  be  called  a   Characterist,  for  it  requires 


41 8  PARTS 

greater  art  to  bring  out  the  character  in  the  face  of  an  old  apple 
woman  on  a  street  corner,  than  to  paint  the  beaut}'  of  a  Venus 
rising  from  the  sea. 

During  the  reign  of  Napoleon  III.,  Paris  was  transformed. 
Hundreds  of  old  buildings  were  torn  down,  that  handsome  boule\-ards 
might  be  laid  out  and  the  streets  made  straighter  and  wider.  The 
Avenue  de  I'Opera  is  one  of  the  finest;  here,  many  of  the  best 
shops  are  to  be  found.  It  extends  from  the  Place  du  Theatre 
Francais  to  the  Place  de  I'Opera. 

At  the  end  of  the  avenue,  and  facing  it,  is  the  gorgeous  Opera 
House,  Iniilt  (1S61-1874)  at  a  cost  of  about  47,000,000  francs,  in- 
cluding the  land.  The  richest  materials  were  used  in  its  construc- 
tion; marbles  from  Italy,  porphyry  from  Finland,  and  granite  from 
Scotland.  The  exterior,  despite  its  magnificence,  is  overdecorated 
and  "heavy,  but  the  grand  staircase  and  foyer  are  unsurpassed. 
The  steps,  upon  which  forty  persons  can  walk  abreast,  are  of  white 
marble;  the  balustrades,  of  rosso  antico*  and  the  hand  rail,  of 
Algerian  onyx. 

We  heard  the  opera  of  "La  Favorite,"  on  the  evening  of  Julv 
13th.  Though  we  bought  low  priced  tickets,  by  paying  a  small 
fee  to  one  of  the  ushers,  who  were  all  women,  we  were  seated  in 
a  box.  Between  the  acts,  one  can  walk  in  the  foyer,  and  there 
have  excellent  opportunities  to  see  the  costumes  of    the  women. 

Many  of  the  small  theaters,  such  as  those  on  the  Chamixs 
Elysees,  advertise  their  performances  by  hiring  four  or  six  men  to 
chant  the  program  for  the  evening,  while  walking  down  the  streets 
in  front  of  the  cafe  tables.  The  two  leaders  start  the  tale,  chant 
a  few  lines,    and  the  next  two    take  it  up. 

On  the  morning  of  the  same  day,  we  rose  at  five  o'clock, 
and  walked  over  to  the  Halles  Centrales,  the  great  market  in  the 
heart  of  Paris.  When  I  tell  you  that  over  66,000,000  lbs.  of  meat 
alone  are  brought  to  this  market  yearly,  to  say  nothing  of  fish, 
oysters,  poultry  and  game,  you  will  realize  the  importance  of  the 
place.  Every  market  woman  is  an  artist  in  her  own  way,  and  takes 
pride  in  the  arrangement  of  her  stock.      The  hsh  were  laid  in  pat- 

*  Antique  red  marble. 


GRAND    STAIRCASE,    OPERA    HOUSE 


420  PARIS 

terns  or  rows,  live  lobsters  placed  s}-mmetrically  on  masses  of  brown 
seaweed,  while  their  boiled  brethren  were  trussed  and  set  up  as 
stiff  as  knights  in  armor.  At  the  vegetable  stalls,  the  same  love 
of  harmony  was  apparent.  The  potatoes,  polished  until  the\-  shone, 
were  lighted  up  by  a  dash  of  color,  such  as  a  pile  of  tomatoes  with 
leaves  attached,  or  a  p3-ramid  of  carrots  or  radishes.  At  the  fruit 
stands,  rosy-cheeked  peaches  lay  in  dewy  grape  leaves,  side  by 
side  with  pale  greengages  and  purple  damson  plums.  Raspberries, 
each  one  with  its  hull  attached,  were  heaped  next  to  a  mound  of 
hazelnuts  in  their  outer  shells.  Pyramids  of  roses,  garden  pinks 
and  lilies  filled  the  morning  air  with  sweet  odors,  but,  prettiest  of 
all  were  the  market  girls  from  the  country,  tresh  and  bright-eyed, 
a  gladsome  relief  from  the  fashionable  dames  with  laced  waists  and 
powdered  faces. 

As  we  were  walking  leisurely  along  between  the  banks  of 
flowers,  I  suddenly  felt  a  light  blow  on  the  back  of  my  head  and 
then  heard  a  merry  laugh.  Turning,  I  met  the  roguish  eyes  of  a 
boy  who  had  struck  me  with  a  bunch  of  ferns.  The  market  girls 
seemed  to  enjoy  our  surprise  and  amusement,  immensely. 

As  we  walked  back  from  the  market,  we  crossed  the  Seine 
and  visited  the  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame.  There  is  something 
mysterious  and  fascinating  about  this  building,  with  its  massive 
towers  and  quaint  sculptures.  The  stone  monsters,  that  perch  on 
the  balustrade  above  the  third  story,  seem  to  grin  and  blink  with 
an  almost  malevolent  air.  Twice  this  renowned  church  has  lieen 
desecrated  by  the  mob  that,  during  \.\\v  Revolution,  was  lost  to  all 
sense  of  decency. 

The  castle-prison  of  the  Bastille  was  destroyed  bv  tlie  people 
on  July  14th,  1789,  at  the  beginning  of  the  Revolution.  W  th  the 
cry,  "Down  with  the  Bastille!"  a  fierce  mob,  bent  on  destruction, 
and  gathering  strength  in  numbers  as  it  swept  through  the  streets, 
incircled  the  moat  and,  notwithstanding  the  defenses  of  a  strong 
wall  and  the  guns,  soon  accomplished  their  object.  Th.e  prison, 
commanded  by  De  Launay,  was  guarded  by  less  than  150  men. 
The  provisions  were  limited,  and  the  supply  of  water  was  soon  cut 
off.  After  a  heroic  defense,  De  Launay  capitulated,  with  the  under- 
standing that  the  garrison  should  be  protected.      But,  as  is  generally 


a.22 


PARIS 


the  case,  the  undisciplined  and  reckless  mob  became  uncontrollable 
and  tl-e  promises  were  not  kept;  although  some  of  the  common 
soldiers  were  saved,    the  officers  were  slain. 

The  celebration  of  the  fall  of  the  Bastille  took  place  as  usual 
on  July  14th.  The  city  was  most  elaborately  decorated  with  flags 
and  buntin'T,  and  even  the  statues  were  huuij  with  wreaths.  All 
the  morning,  people  were  pouring  out  of  the  houses,  and  by  two 
o'clock    in    the    afternoon    the    streets    were    crowded.      About    that 


AVENUE    DU    BOiS    DE    BOULOGNE 

time,  taking  a  cab  with  a  jolly,  red-faced  driver,  who  proved  most 
skillful  m  selecting  points  of  vantage,  and  obliging  about  explaining 
things,  we  started  for  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  where  M.  Felix  Faure, 
the  President  of  the  French  Republic,  was  to  review  the  troops  at 
Longchamp.  In  order  to  see  him  twice,  we  halted  on  the  Champs 
Elysees,  both  going  and  coming,  and  were  well  rewarded  by  the 
sight  of  a  handsome,  middle-aged  man  with  white  hair  and  mus- 
taches, whose  gracious  bearing  and  winning  smile  will  linger  long 
in  our  memory.  He  was  seated  in  a  landau  drawn  by  four 
horses,  with  outriders,  and  escorted  by  a  detachment  of  the  Paris 
Guards,  whose  furious  pace  and  peculiar  red  and  black  uniform 
gave  them  the  appearance  of  a  band  of  Indians  in  war  paint  and 
feathers.  The  maneuvers  of  the  cavalry  were  especially  interest- 
ing, and  the  regiments  made  a  striking  picture  as  they  marched, 
with   their  helmets  glittering  in  the  sun,  and  naked  swords  upright; 


PARIS 


423 


but  I  am  afraid  we  forgot  France  when  our  rubicund  coachman 
franticall)-  assisted  us  to  a  standing  position  on  the  seat  of  our 
carriage,  exclaiming  in  excited  tones,  ''I'oila  Ics  Chinois!"  In  a 
moment,  dt)wn  the  avenue  dashed  a  company  of  Guards,  followed 
1)\-  three  carriages  filled  with  Chinese  in  gorgeous  apparel,  and,  in 
the  first,  who,  but  Li  Hung  Chang,  the  greatest  of  Chinese  states- 
men! He  is  a  fine-looking  man,  apparently  about  sixty  years  old, 
with  long    mustaches    and  a  small   beard. 


When   we    saw  him,    he 


GARDEN    OF    THE    TUILERIES 

was    laughing    heartily    with    his    companion,    evidently,    about    the 
rapid  rate  at  which  they  were  being  whirled  along. 

The  illuminations  in  the  evening  were  beautiful;  all  the  im- 
portant buildings  were  decorated  with  the  sparkling  banner  of  the 
Republic,  and  incircled  with  lights,  like  ropes  of  diamonds.  We 
were  surprised  to  find  that,  instead  of  electricity,  tiny,  colored 
cups,  containing  oil  and  a  lighted  wick,  were  used.  In  every  square 
was  a  band  stand,  whence  floated  the  strains  of  a  waltz  or  two- 
step.  Ever}'body  was  happy;  a  couple  would  be  walking  soberly 
along,  when,  all  at  once,  the  music  would  strike  up  and  they  would 


424  PARIS 

break  into  a  hop,  skip  and  jump  and  away  they  would  go  in  the 
merry  whirl  of  dancers.  They  would  often  occupy  the  entire  street, 
stirring  up  clouds  of  dust;  for  carriages  were  not  allowed  to  circu- 
late through  the  center  of  the  city,  after  eight  o'clock.  We  sat 
down  at  one  of  the  many  hundred  tables  in  front  of  the  Cafe  dc 
la  Paix,  on  the  Place  de  I'Opera,  and  enjoyed  some  delicious  ices, 
while  we  watched  the  crowd  for  a  couple  of  hours.  The  band 
stand  opposite  was  brilliant  with  red  and  yellow  lanterns,  and  the 
Grand  Hotel  behind  us  floated  the  Chinese  flag  from  the  apartments 
occupied  by  Li  Hung  Chang.  There  was  very  little  real  dancing 
here,  on  account  of  the  density  of  the  crowd.  Many  made  des- 
perate efforts,  but  after  a  few  rounds  invariably  ending  in  an  embrace 
and  a  resounding  smack,  they  would  give  it  up  and  await  the  op- 
portunity for  another  turn.  No  one  seemed  in  the  least  shocked 
or  surprised  at  the  open  love-making.  It  appeared  to  be  perfectly 
proper  for  a  well-dressed  woman  to  promenade  the  boulevard  with 
her  escort's  arm  about  her,  and,  if  a  pair  of  lovers  wished  to  ex- 
change a  salute,  no  one  commented  or  smiled,  but  took  it  as  a 
matter  of  celebration,  merely.  Everywhere,  until  after  midnight, 
ladies  in  couples,  many  of  them  foreigners  like  ourselves,  walked 
about  unnoticed.  I  am  told  by  the  condense'"  of  our  hotel  that  it 
is  not  unusual  for  ladies  to  go  about  at  night  without  escorts,  on 
holidays,  and  at  her  suggestion,  we  have  attended  the  Theatre 
Francais,   and  the  Opera  without  the  least  annoyance. 

Now  and  then,  one  becomes  tired  of  mart}Ted  saints  on  walls 
and  tombs,  but  of  the  living  people,  never,  and  nowhere  in  Paris 
can  thev  l-^e  better  studied  and  enjo\-ed  than  in  the  Champs  Elysees. 
On  both  sides  of  the  broad  avenue  leading  to  the  Arc  de  Triomphe, 
are  public  gardens  filled  with  booths,  miniature  theaters.  Punch 
and  Judy  shows  and  merry-go-rounds.  Lovers  sit  side  by  side  on 
the  comfortable  seats  under  the  trees,  and  little  children,  with  their 
white-capped  nurses,  frisk  about  with  hoops  and  balls.  Ever_\\vhere 
are  the  good-natured,  pleasure-loving  people.  It  takes  so  little  to 
make  Paris  content!  I  mean  the  Paris  of  the  blouse  and  cap.  A 
tune  from   the  fiddler,    a    few  feet  of    pavement,    a  con\-enient  wine 

*  Portress. 


426  PARIS 

shop,  and  they  are  dehriously  happv.  Parisian  anger  lasts  but  a 
moment.  I  have  seen  two  cabmen  Hy  at  each  other  as  if  about  to 
indulge  in  hsticufts  over  some  disputed  point;  but,  in  a  moment, 
the  war  of  words  would  be  over,  and  they  would  pass  on  amid 
the  laughter  of  the  bystanders,  who  dearly  love  a  row.  The  people, 
always  impulsive,  jealous  of  their  rights,  yet  have  a  wholesome 
respect  tor  the  law;  a  policeman  does  not  need  to  argue;  his  com- 
mands are  obeyed,  and,  no  matter  how  great  the  crush  of  carriages 
or  pedestrians,  all  are  managed  so  skillfully  and  with  so  little  fuss 
that  one  is  filled  with   admiration. 

One  evening  about  six  o'clock,  as  we  were  going  to  our  hotel, 
we  saw  lour  }'oung  men  and  women  abreast,  skipping  down  the 
center  of  one  of  the  principal  streets,  their  arms  locked  about  each 
other,  kicking  up  their  heels,  and  singing  at  the  top  of  their  lungs. 
We  wondered  what  Chicago  people  would  think,  if  such  a  thing 
should  occur  on  State  Street.  After  all,  is  it  not  refreshing  to  find 
a  place  where  people  who  must  live  in  the  city  can  let  off  some  of 
the  pent-up  steam,  and  not  feel  obliged  to  bottle  up  their  emotions 
for  fear  of  disturbing  the  peace? 

The  Louvre  is  probabh'  the  best-known  ot  all  the  art  galleries 
in  the  world.  The  foundations  of  this  vast  palace,  standing  between 
the  Rue  de  Rivoli  and  the  Seine,  were  laid  by  Francis  I.,  and  the 
building  was  continued  by  subsequent  monarchs.  In  the  Louvre, 
Margaret  of  Valois  was  married  to  the  King  of  Navarre,  afterwards 
Henry  IV.  of  France.  Five  days  later,  August  24th,  1572,  the 
horrible  massacre  of  the  Huguenots,  instigated  by  the  infamous 
Catherine  de  Medicis,  took  place,  the  signal  being  given  from  the 
palace.  The  greater  part  of  the  vast  pile  has  been  used  as  a 
museum,  since  1793,  and  is  open  to  the  public,  free  of  charge. 
Nearly  every  artist  of  note  is  represented  in  this  treasure-house  of 
statuary,    paintings  and  curios. 

Of  all  the  marbles  imbodying  the  beauty,  grace  and  nobility 
of  womanhood,  none  can  surpass  the  Venus  de  Milo.  Discovered 
in  1820  by  a  peasant  on  the  island  of  Melos,  it  was  purchased  by 
the  French,  and  installed  in  a  room  by  itself  in  the  Louvre.  This 
room  is  the  last  of  a  long  suite,  and,  as  one  enters  it,  the  figure 
of  the  goddess  is  seen  standing  out  against  a  crimson  background. 


VENUS    DE    MiLO 


428  PARIS 

Among  the  lar2;e  paintinos  that  hue  the  picture  gallery,  two 
comparatively  small  ones  seem  to  ' '  sing  out, "  as  an  artist  would  say. 
They  are  Leonardo  da  Vinci's  "  Mona  Lisa,"  whose  magnetic  gaze 
seems  to  follow  one  about  the  room,  and  the  ' '  Laughing  Girl, "  bv 
Frans  Hals,  the  Dutch  portrait  painter  (15S4-1666).  Mona  Lisa  was 
the  wife  of  Leonardo's  friend,  Francesco  Giocondo,  and,  in  this  por- 
trait it  is  said  that  the  artist  imbodied  all  he  considered  most  beau- 
tiful in  woman.  He  worked  upon  it  for  four  years,  painting  and 
repainting,  never  feeling  that  it  was  complete.  Very  attractive  also 
is  the  "Broken  Pitcher,"  showing  the  delicate  coloring,  the  tender 
modelling  of  Greuze.  Murillo's  masterpiece,  the  "  Lnmaculate  Con- 
ception," hangs  in  Le  Salon  Carre,*  where  the  chief  treasures  are 
collected. 

No  finer  schools  of  art  exist  at  the  present  day  than  are 
found  in  Paris,  the  most  prominent,  doubtless,  being  the  Ecole  des. 
Beaux  Arts.  Thousands  of  students,  from  all  over  the  world,  come 
here,  annual!)-,  to  avail  themselves  of  its  splendid  opportunities. 
The  greater  number  live  near  the  school,  in  tlie  section  known  as 
the  Latin  Quarter,  which  has  been  so  admirabl\-  described  by  Du 
Maurier,  and  others.  There  is  an  art  atmosplicre  in  Paris,  impos- 
sible elsewhere. 

Of  course,  we  went  to  see  the  Gobelin  tapestries.  Long  ago, 
in  the  15th  century,  Jean  Gobelin,  a  dyer,  set  up  a  modest  estab- 
lishment in  Paris  and  began  to  weave  tapestries.  By  the  17th 
century,  the  manufactory  had  become  so  famous  that  it  was  pur- 
chased and  enlarged  by  the  government.  The  tapestries  are  never 
sold,  but  are  reserved  for  the  decoration  of  public  buildings,  or 
presented  to  foreign  courts  and  persons  of   high   rank. 

We  saw  the  artists  at  work.  The  warp  is  strung  on  upright 
frames,  before  which  the  weaver  stands.  The  design  is  stamped 
on  the  warp,  as  for  embroidery,  and  the  water  color  picture,  which  is 
to  be  copied,  hangs  directly  before  the  weaver.  On  his  right,  he  has 
a  collection  of  hand  shuttles,  long  pieces  of  wood,  round  at  one 
end  where  the  yarn  is  wound,  and  pointed  at  the  otlier.  Glancing 
backward  at  his  design,  he  selects  a  color,  and,  with  an  automatic 

*  Tlie  Square  Hall. 


THE    BROKEN    P  iCHER 


430 


PARIS 


movement  of  the  left  hand,  separates  the  double  threads  of  the 
warp  and  thrusts  the  shuttle  through;  while,  with  the  pointed  end, 
he  presses  the  thread  close  against  the  thread  last  inserted.  It  is 
exceedingly  slow  work.     At    rare    intervals,   silk  threads   are    used, 


^,\   :.l,,i;>^UISE    DE   POMPADOUR 

and  even  gold,  but,  generally,  wool,  as  it  keeps  its  color  longest. 
The  composition  of  the  dyes  is  a  secret  known  only  to  the  manu- 
facturers. 

That  pleasure-loving  monarch,  Louis  XIV.,  having  taken  a  dis- 
like to  the  palace  of  St.  Germain,  decided  to  build  another,  more 
sumptuous,  at  Versailles,  about  ten  miles  from  Paris.  The  labor 
and  expense  involved  in  such  an  undertaking  were  increased  by 
the    fact    that    water    had    to    be    brought    from    a    great    distance. 


DUCHES5E    DE    LA    VALLtkRE 


PARIS  433 

Finally,  however,  he  succeeded  in  carrying  out  his  wishes  and  those 
of  his  favorite,  the  Duchesse  de  la  Valliere. 

During  the  reign  of  his  successor,  Louis  XV.,  Mme.  de  Pom- 
padour was  the  ruling  spirit  at  Versailles,  where  many  extravagant 
improvements  were  made,  that  her  beauty  and  talents  might  have 
an  appropriate  setting.  Guizot  says  that  Mme.  de  Pompadour  was 
fond  of  porcelain,  and  conceived  the  idea  oi  imitating  Dresden 
china  in  France.  She,  therefore,  founded,  first  at  Vmcennes  and 
then  at  Sevres,  a  porcelain  manufactor\',  which  the  king  took  under 
his  protection,  requiring  the  courtiers  to  purchase  the  jiroduct,  at 
high  prices. 

In  the  time  of  Louis  XVI.,  Versailles  was  sacked  by  a  mob, 
and  here,  on  January  i8th,  1S71,  King  William  of  Prussia  was 
hailed  as  the  Emperor  of  Germany.  It  is  now  a  mere  show  place 
and  museum. 

Our  first  impressions  of  the  palace  were  satisfactor}-,  for  the 
general  effect  is  harmonious,  when  seen  from  a  distance;  but  a 
nearer  view  reveals  a  distressing  lack  of  harmony  in  the  architec- 
ture. There  are  five  large  courts,  the  most  interesting  being  the 
"Court  of  Honor,"  which  contains  a  bronze  equestrian  statue  of 
Louis  XIV.,  and  also  statues  of  eminent  men.  Here,  the  cynical 
Cardinal  Richelieu  gazes  at  one  with  an  imperious  air;  vonder,  is  the 
noble  figure  of  the  Chevalier  Ba\'ard,  '' sans peur  et  sans  reproche.^'* 

The  historical  paintings,  which  cover  the  walls  of  endless  suites 
of  rooms,  are  superb;  but  the  other  decorations  are  not  what  we 
expected  to  see.  Even  the  celebrated  Gallery  of  Mirrors  would 
have  been  a  disappointment,  if  it  had  not  been  for  the  elTtective 
ceiling  paintings  by  Charles  Lebrun.  From  the  windows  one  looks 
down  into  the  gardens. 

The  Hall  of  Diana,  though  lined  with  marble,  is  ugly,  and 
the  room  where  Louis  XI V.  breathed  his  last  is  narrow  and  over- 
decorated  with  carving  and  gilding.  From  the  balcony  of  this 
room,  which  overlooks  the  Court  of  Honor,  the  first  chamberlain 
pronounced  the  famous  sentence,   "' Lc  roi  est  niort!"-\  immediately 

*• 'Without  fear  and  without  reproach." 
I  --The  King  is  dead." 


PARIS 


435 


breaking  his  wand  of  office;  then,  taking  a  new  op^,  which  he 
held  aloft,  exclaimed,    "  Vive  Ic  roi/"* 

Of  the  portraits,  we  most  admired  that  ot  Marie  Antoinette, 
bv  her  friend,  Mme.  Lebrun,  and  one  of  Napoleon's  second  wife, 
Marie   Louise,    and  her  babe,  the   King  of   Rome. 

Catching  only  a  glimpse  of  the  park  with  its  fountains,  stat- 
ues and  iine  landscape  gardening,  we  drove  to  the  Grand  Trianon, 


ROOM    OF    LOU.S    XIV.,  VERSAILLES 

a  villa  about  half  a  mile  distant,  erected  by  Louis  XIV.  for  Mme. 
de  Maintenon. 

As  we  traversed  corridor,  salon  and  chamber,  the  history  of 
this  strong  character  filled  our  thoughts.  Ambitious,  determined 
and  imbued  with  a  spirit  of  piety,  she  dominated  the  aging  mon- 
arch as  no  woman  had  been  able  to  do  in  earlier  years.  "Mme. 
de  la  Valliere  had  held  sway  over  the  young  and  romantic  heart 
of  the  prince.  Mme.  de  Maintenon  alone  established  her  empire 
over  the  man  and  king."  "The  date  has  never  been  ascertained  ex- 
actly of  the  king's  private  marriage  with  Mme.  de  Maintenon.  It 
took  place  eighteen  months  or  two    years    after  the  queen's  death. 

*  "Long  live  the  King!" 


MARIE    LOUISE    AND    THE    KING    OF    ROME 


PARIS 


437 


The  king  was  forty-seven,  Alme.  de  Maintenon,  fifty.  She  still 
showed  traces  of  great  beauty,  —  an  air  of  ease,  and  vet  of  restraint 
and  respect;  a  great  deal  of  cleverness,  with  a  speech  that  was  sweet, 
correct,  in  good  terms,  and  naturally  eloquent  and  brief." 

Adjoining  the  villa,  which  is  in  the  shape  ol   a  horseshoe,  and 
only    one    story    in    height,    is    a    museum    of    carriages.      There   is 


DIARY    OF    MARIE    ANTOINETTE 

among  others  a  gilded  and  enamelled  coach  of  Charles  X. ;  the 
coach  in  which  the  Empress  Josephine,  after  her  divorce,  drove  to 
Malmaison;  and  the  one  used  by  Napoleon  and  Marie  Louise  on 
the  occasion  of   their  marriage. 

In  the  garden  of  the  Petit  Trianon,  a  smaller  villa  built  by 
Louis  XV.,  is  the  dair}*  where  Marie  Antoinette  spent  her  happiest 
days.  Here,  with  her  courtiers  and  ladies,  attired  in  becoming 
peasant  costume,    she  played  at  the  simple  life  of  a  country  maid, 


CHURCH    OF    ST,    DENIS 


PARIS 


439 


making  butter  in  golden  bowls  and  skimming  cream  with  a  jewelled 
ladle.  The  neighboring  woods  are  indescribably  beautiful,  and  the 
hamlet  on  the  bank  of  a  winding  stream  is  still  attractive  enough 
for  any  princess.  Visitors  are  not  admitted  to  the  dairy,  but 
through  the  open  window  we  could  look  in.  Upon  a  marble  table 
at  each  end,  a  big  "L, "  standing  for  Louis,  is  carved.  We 
could  imagine  the  delight  of  the  highborn  dames  in  their  pretty 
pastime.       How    delicious    to    the    sated  palate  of    a  gentleman    of 


TOMB    OF   NAPOLEON 


the  Court  must  have  been  a  draught  of  new  milk,  when  presented 
by  the  hand  of  the  beautiful  Queen!  With  the  Kings  of  France, 
Marie  Antoinette  and  her  royal  spouse  sleep  in  the  old  church  of 
St.    Denis,   which  is  literally  a  church  of  tombs. 

As  the  name  of  Napoleon  is  preeminent  in  the  annals  of 
France,  so  his  last  resting-place  is  grand  beyond  all  other  tombs. 
Above  the  entrance,  is  an  inscription  taken  from  the  will  of  the 
Emperor: — ''Jc  desire  que  mes  cendres  reposcnt  stir  les  bords  de 
la   Seine,  ait  milieu  de  ce penple  francais  qtie  j' ai  tant  aime."*     Be- 

*"I  desire  that  my  ashes  repose  on  the  banks  of  the  Seine,  in  the  midst  of 
that  French  people  whom  I  have  so  loved." 


4+0  PARIS 

neath  the  glittering  dome  of  the  Hotel  des  Invalides,  is  an  open, 
circular  crypt  of  marble.  In  the  mosaic  of  the  pavement  is  a  laurel 
wreath  bound  with  purple  ribbons,  and  there,  also,  are  recorded 
the  names  of  battles.  In  the  center  stands  the  sarcophagus,  cut 
from  a  solid  block  of  red  F"innish  granite,  weighing  sixty-seven  tons. 
As  if  on  guard  about  the  crypt,  are  twelve  statues  of  Victory  and 
sixty  battle  flags  recalling  the  triumphs  of  the  Emperor.  The  light, 
tinged  with  blue  by  the  glass  of  the  dome,  sheds  its  dim  ra}-s  over 
the  polished  marble,  enhancing  its  solemn  grandeur.  Opposite  the 
entrance  is  the  high  altar  bathed  in  a  golden  glor}',  which  streams 
throusih  the  orange  glass  of  the  side  windows  in  warm  contrast  to 
the  cold,  blue  shadows  of  the  crypt,  symbolizing,  m  the  language 
of  sublime  color,    Death  and   Immortality. 

When  one  studies  the  life  of  Napoleon,  seriously,  he  finds 
that  it  is  a  difficult  matter  to  avoid  admiring  mtensely  his  courage, 
executive  abilitv  and  tireless  energy;  on  the  other  hand,  how  much 
there   is  to  blame!     Said  Wordsworth:  — 

"I  grieved  for  Buonaparte,  with  a   vain 
And  an  unthinking  grief!   for,  who  aspires 
To  genuine  greatness  but  from  just  desires. 
And  knowledge  such  as  he  could  never  gain? 
'Tis  not  in  battles  that  from  youth  we  train 
The  Governor  who  must  be  wise  and  good, 
And  temper  with  the  sternness  of  tb.e  brain 
Thoughts  motherly,  and  meek  as  womanhood. 
Wisdom  doth  live  with  children  round  her  knees: 
Books,  leisure,  perfect  freedom,  and  the  talk 
Man  holds  with  week-day  man  in  the  hourly  walk 
Of  the  mind's  business:  these  are  the  degrees 
By  which  true  Sway  doth  mount;  this  is  the  stalk 
True  Power  doth  grow  on;  and  her  rights  are  these." 

The  Hotel  des  Invalides  is  a  home  for  wounded  and  disa.bled 
soldiers,  and  it  seems  fitting  that  Napoleon  should  be  surrounded 
by  those  who  have  suffered  for  their  country.  In  the  museum  are 
preserved  the  Emperor's  swords,  camp  bed,  flags  and  many  famous 
documents. 

One    day,    after  a  three    hours'  walk   in   the    cemetery  of    Pere 


.'Ett:.'---j\£    COLUMN 


442 


PARIS 


Lachaise,  we  stopped  at  an  attractive  restaurant  near  the  gates, 
for  our  midday  meal.  On  the  menu,  among  the  vegetables,  I 
saw  petits  pois,  *  and,  thinking  they  would  be  appetizing,  ordered 
some.  They  were  brought  in  smoking  hot,  but,  when  I  lifted  up 
a  spoonful,  there,  in  the  center,  was  a  large  bluebottle  fly,  very 
well  done  indeed.  I  called  the  waiter,  but,  as  he  was  busy,  the 
proprietor  of  the  establishment  came  from  behind  the  counter  to 
see  what  I  wished.  I  pointed  significantly  to  his  flyship,  where- 
upon, mine  host,  rolling  his  eyes  upward  in  a  deprecating  wav  and 
shrugging  his  shoulders,  said  plaintively:  "It  is  not  my  fault, 
Madame;  it  fell  from  heaven!"  Then  taking  up  the  spoon,  he  re- 
moved the  oflender,  and  walked  off  with  an  air  which  implied  that 
I  had  put  him  to  a  great  deal  of  trouble. 

Guidebooks  state  that  one  can  make  the  excursion  to  Fon- 
tainebleau  in  one  day,  but  it  is  difficult.  We  made  the  attempt, 
but  were  obliged  to  return  to  the  city  without  having  seen  anv- 
thing  of  the  Forest,  which  is  regarded  as  the  most  beautiful  in 
France.  The  Palace  of  Fontainebleau  was  founded  in  116:!  by 
Louis  VII.,  but  rebuilt  by  Francis  I.,  in  the  i6th  century.  It  has 
five  great  courts,  and  it  was  in  one  of  these,  sometimes  called  the 
"Court  of  Farewells,"  that  Napoleon,  after  his  abdication,  bade 
farewell  to  his  Grenadiers,  in  the  memorable  words,  ''Adieu,  mes 
cnlauts !  "\  The  interior  of  P\:)ntainebleau  seems  to  me  more  impos- 
ing than  that  of  Versailles.  The  gallery  of  Francis  I.  and  that  of 
Henry  II.  are  the  most  magnificent  of  all  the  salons.  Marie  An- 
toinette's superb,  suite  of  rooms  is  lavishly  decorated  and  hung  with 
Beauvais  tapestries,  the  bed  being  a  marvel  of  elegance  and  luxur\-. 
The  carving  of  some  of  the  ceilings  suggests  the  work  of  the  Japa- 
nese, and  is  exceedingl}'  well  done;  as  are  the  sculptures  in  wood 
and  stucco.  In  the  gallery  of  Diana  the  ceiling  and  side  walls  are 
covered  with  representations  of  hunting  scenes  in  which  Diana, 
goddess  of  the  chase,  is  the  central  figure.  The  initial  letter  of 
Napoleon's  name  is  emblazoned  on  the  crimson  velvet  of  his  chair 
in  the    throne    room,   and  the    chandelier   is  of   rock    cr3'stal.     The 

*  Green  peas. 

f  "Farewell,    my  children!  " 


MARIE    ANTOINETTE 


444 


PARIS 


walls  of  one  apartment  are  of  panelled  wood,  set  with  rows  of 
Sevres  plates,  on  which  are  painted  the  royal  residences.  In  this 
palace  the  sentence  of  divorce  was  pronounced  against  Josephine, 
Napoleon's  wife,  in  1809,  3^"^  here  Pope  Pius  VII.  was  imprisoned 
from    1S12   to   1 8 14. 

Yesterday,  we  had  a  delightful  day  in  the  countrv,  where 
poppies  and  bachelor's  buttons  tumble  over  each  other  in  a  mad 
scramble  for    the  place  which  rightfully  belongs  to  the  wheat    and 


THRONE    AT    FONTAINEBLEAU 

barley.  Starting  at  10:25  ^-  ^^-  '^^'^  reached  Auvers  on  the  Oise 
river,  at  1 1  -.2,0.  A  short  walk  up  the  hill  brought  us  to  the  pretty 
villa  of  the  American  artist,  Charles  Sprague  Pearce,  who  had  in- 
vited us  to  luncheon.  We  found  the  artist  in  a  spacious,  air}'  studio, 
which  had  a  wing  inclosed  in  glass.  He  is  working  on  the  mural 
painting  which  is  to  adorn  one  of  the  walls  of  the  Congressional 
Library  at  Washington.  The  three  sections  are  nearly  completed. 
The  subject  of  the  largest  is  the  "Familv;"of  the  others,  "Study," 
and  "Religion."  The  composition,  th'awing  and  tone  of  each  paint- 
ing is  clean,    strong  and   full  of  deep  feeling. 


LOUIS    XVI 


446 


FAJilS 


We  enjoyed  a  characteristic  and  delicious  luncheon,  presided 
over  by  Mme.  Pearce,  a  charming  Frenchwoman,  and  then,  after  a 
visit  to  the  aviary,  where  a  number  of  fine  birds  testified  to  the 
care  bestowed  upon  them  by  their  mistress,  we  all  went  for  a  stroll 
about  the  town,  passing  the  old  home  of  Daubigny,  the  great  land- 


ST.   ETIENNE   DU   MONT 

scape  painter.  I  lis  widow  still  resides  there.  Near  by  are  low 
thatched  farmhouses  nestling  among  the  very  trees  he  so  loved  to 
paint,  and  from  the  ])row  of  the  hill  we  could  look  down  upon 
Pontoise    in    the    valley.      On    the    banks    of    the    Oise  are  rows  of 


PARIS  447 

acacias  with  openings  in  the  fohage,  which  reminded  us  of  stories 
about  Father  Corot  \\\\a  painted  just  such  trees,  as  he  said,  for 
the  little  birds  to  Hy  through. 

Charles  Sprague  Pearce  is  still  a  young  man,  but  [xxssesses 
many  diplomas  and  awards  ot  merit  which  hang  in  the  entrance 
hall  of  his  home.  We  look  forward  with  great  anticipation  to  his 
future.  Late  in  the  afternoon,  we  said  "Good-bye,"  and,  laden 
with  tiowers,  returned  to  Paris.  It  is  with  deep  regret  that  we 
leave  in  France  this  talented  man  who  belongs  to  our  native  land. 
When  will  Americans  wake  up  to  the  fact  that  many  of  their 
artists  are  living  abroad  ?  When,  b\'  their  patronage  and  svmpa- 
thy  will  they  make  it  not  only  possible,  but  advantageous,  for  them 
to  remain  in  America  and  to  enjoy  life  there  so  much  that  they 
will  not  desire  to   work  in  a  foreign  land? 

These  little  trips  into  the  country  have  been  welcome  changes 
from  the  heat  and  bustle  of  the  city,  and  from  the  nervous  wear 
and  tear  of  the  shopping  in  which  ever}-  woman  indulges  when  in 
Paris. 

The  Bon  Marche  and  the  Louvre  are  the  two  largest  dry- 
goods  stores.  Both  are  inferior  in  nearly  every  respect  to  our  best 
stores  in  Chicago.  I  have  generally  noticed  in  these  establishments 
that  the  clerk  is,  at  first,  all  politeness  and  attention,  but,  let  the 
customer  fail  to  be  suited,  and  the  manner  of  the  salesman  changes 
instantly,  often  to  impertinence.  I  have  also  had  such  experiences 
in  the  shops  where  cooked  meats  are  sold,  and  at  the  fruit  stands. 
The  courtesy  of  the  working  classes  seems  to  be  superficial,  but 
our  experiences  with  other  people,  with  whom  we  have  come  in 
contact,  have  been  delightful.  On  the  journey  through  Normandy 
to  Mont  St.  ]\Iichel,  we  shall  see  something  of  the  peasants 
of  France,  whom  we  hope  to  enjo}'  as  much  as  we  did  those  of 
Italv. 


CHAPTER    XXVII 


MONT  ST.    MICHEL.   GRANVILLE,   AND   JERSEY 

lARLY  on  the  morning;'  of  Jul\'  22nd,  wu  bade  good-bye 
to  Paris  with  mingled  feelings  of  regret  and  relief;  re- 
gret, that  we  could  not  see  all  of  its  beauties  during 
our  short  visit;  relief,  because  we  were  going  away 
from  the  dust  and  heat,  through  the  green  country  to 
the  coast.  Normand\-  is  a  delightful  district  of  France, 
and  our  route  lay  through  woods  and  rich  farm  lands, 
and  past  thatched  cottages.  Sweet-faced  old  women,  in  snow- 
white  caps  with  frilled  borders,  sat  knitting  in  many  doorways,  and 
in  the  fields,  men  and  women  were  toiling  side  by  side,  just  as 
Millet  has  painted  them,  their  wooden  sabots  adding  the  final  touch 
to  the  usual  costume  of  blue  homespun.  Ever\\\  here,  farm  work 
is  performed  in  a  primitive  way.  The  women  cut  the  grain  with 
a  sickle.  As  we  had  to  wait  at  FoUigny  three  hours,  we  took  a 
walk  down  the  road  leading  from  the  station,  in  order  to  obtain  a 
nearer  view  of  some  of  the  houses.  It  was  a  pleasure  to  see  them, 
as  well  as  the  little  gardens,    they  seemed  so  homelike. 

Avranches,  the  next  stop  of  importance,  is  an  old  Norman 
town,  beautifully  situated  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  river  See.  A 
heaj-)  of  stones  marks  the  site  of  a  splendid  cathedral,  where,  it  is 
said,  in  the  12th  centurv  Henry  II.  of  England  did  penance  for 
the  murder  of  Thomas  a  Becket. 

But  I  must  tell  you  of  the  experience  we  hud  at  Pontorson, 
where  we  stopped  for  the  night.  On  coming  out  trom  the  station. 
we  were  literally  mobbed  bv  omnibus  and  cab  drivers,  who  thrust 
their  faces  close  to  ours  and  shouted  the  advantages  of  the  various 
inns.  At  last,  we  gave  our  baggage  to  a  man  who  seemed  more 
modest  than  the  others,  and  told  him  to  K'ad  the  way.  His  hos- 
telry proved  to  l)e  a  second-class  house,  close  to  the  depot,  but 
as    it    appeared    to    be  clean,    and   we  were    tired    and    hungr)-,    we 

44S 


MONT  ST.    MICHEL.  G RA \ \I LLE,  A XD  J ERSRY  449 

decided  to  stav.  All  wont  well  until  we  were  settled  in  our  room 
and  attempted  to  lock  the  door,  wlien  we  found  to  our  consterna- 
tion that  it  only  possessed  an  old-fashioned  latch,  and  no  lock 
w^hatever.  The  same  was  true  of  a  door  leadin<^  into  an  adjoining 
chamber.  While  we  were  debating  what  to  do,  for  we  knew  it 
would  be  useless,  at  that  late  hour,  to  search  for  the  landlady,  we 
heard  a  strange  noise  under  the  window.  Peering  out,  we  saw 
a  man  in  the  garden  very  quietly  placing  a  long  ladder  against 
the  wall,  beneath  the  window  of  the  next  room.  Then  we  were 
scared  indeed!  Visions  of  masked  robbers  with  dark  lanterns,  and 
tramps  in  blue  blouses,  with  thick  bludgeons,  flitted  through  our 
tired  brains,  and  we  held  a  council  of  war.  Although  recalling 
stories  of  the  honesty  and  carelessness  of  the  average  farmer,  who 
sleeps  with  his  doors  open  to  the  world,  we  remembered  the 
treasures  which  we  had  accumulated,  and  thinking  that  discretion 
was  the  better  part  of  trust,  prepared  tor  an  attack.  You  ought 
to  have  seen  our  defenses!  they  put  Sebastopol  in  the  shade!  In 
the  first  place,  we  gathered  all  the  stout  cords  and  strings  from 
the  baggage  and  connected  the  latches  of  the  two  doors;  then,  on 
the  strings,  we  hung  candlesticks,  a  tin  cup,  our  little  frying  pan, 
the  alcohol  lamp,  and  all  the  articles  that  would  make  a  great 
clatter,  if  the  doors  should  be  disturbed.  Finally,  we  stacked  our 
umbrellas  and  canes  so  that  they  would  fall  if  touched,  and  made 
a  barricade  of  the  furniture,  beds  excepted.  It  did  not  occur  to 
us  until  we  awoke  the  next  morning,  after  a  peaceful  rest,  that 
probably  the  next  room  could  only  be  reached  through  ours,  and 
that  the  person  who  was  to  sleep  there  had  been  obliged  to  enter 
through  the  window,  to  avoid  disturbing  us.  I  really  believe  that, 
in  the  end,  we  were  a  trifle  disappointed  at  the  prosaic  ending  of 
the  affair. 

About  nine  o'clock,  we  mounted  to  the  top  of  a  coach  and 
started  on  a  five-mile  drive  to  Mont  St.  Michel,  an  isolated  rock, 
looming  up  out  of  the  ocean,  like  a  monster  ship,  about  half  a 
mile  from  the  coast.  Its  base  is  incircled  by  ramparts,  and  a 
magnificent  Benedictine  Abbey,  partially  hewn  out  of  the  rock 
itself,  crowns  the  height.  In  1880,  a  causeway  was  built  to  connect 
the  island   with  the    mainland.      Below  the  abbey  and  church,  lies 

29 


45° 


MONT  ST.   MICHEL,    GRANVILLE,  AND  JERSEY 


a  little  village  with  one  street.  The  abbey  was  founded  in  709  by 
a  bishop  of  Avranches,  to  whom  the  archangel  Michael  is  said  to 
have  appeared.  It  was  destroyed  in  1203,  but  immediately  rebuilt. 
After  the  Revolution,  it  was  used  for  many  years  as  a  prison,  and 
is  now  the  property  of  the  state.  The  towers  connected  with  the 
ramparts  add  much  to  the  picturesqueness  of  the  rock. 

One  enters  the  abbey  through    the    Donjon,   which  opens  into 
the  Hall  of  the  Guards  and  connects  with  the  grand  staircase.     At 


MONT    SAINT   MICHEU 

the  top  of  the  third  landing,  is  a  broad  platform  with  a  parapet. 
It  is  named  Saut  Gualtier,  because  in  the  16th  century  a  state 
prisoner  of  that  name  attempted  to  escape  from  the  castle  by 
leaping  from  the  stone  parapet  into  the  sea.  The  distance  was  so 
great  that  he  was  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  rocks  below.  From 
this  platform  there  is  an  extensive  view  of  the  sea,  and  the  divid- 
ing line  between  Normandy  and  Brittany. 

The  church,  begun  in  the  Norman  style  in  the  iith  century, 
is  mainly  Gothic.  As  the  interior  is  at  present  undergoing  restora- 
tion,   it  is  impossible  to  get  a  clear  view  of  it. 

The  cloisters  of  the  abbey,  with  their  double  row  of  polished 
granite  columns,    are  beautiful.      Next  to  the  wall  are  stone  ledges 


MOXT  Sr.   MICHEL,    GRANVILLE,   AND  JERSEY 


451 


in  which  holes  are  bored  at  intervals  of  about  six  feet.  Our  guide 
informed  us  that,  after  death,  the  nude  bodies  of  the  monks  were 
placed  on  these  ledges  and  purified  with  holy  water  which  ran  off 
through  the  apertures.  The}'  were  then  wrapped  in  their  \estments 
and  lowered  into  the  charnel  house  in  the  bowels  of  the  rock. 

The  dungeons  are  horrible,  built  one  within  another,  with  only 
a  tiny  opening  to  admit  air  and  food.  We  entered  one,  where  a 
noted  prisoner  by  the  name  of    Barbes  was  incarcerated,   and    saw 


CLOISTERS,    MONT  SAINT   MICHEL 


the  great  ircMi  chain  by  which  he  was  fettered  to  a  ring  in  the  wall. 
It  was  rusted  with  age,  but  still  strong  enough  to  hold  a  giant  in 
check.  There  was  an  iron  cage  where  the  wretched  Duliourg,  a 
Dutch  journalist,   was  eaten  alive  by  rats  in    1 746. 

The  largest  rooms  are  the  refectory,  with  a  huge  chimney  for 
roasting  whole  beeves,  and  the  Hall  of  the  Knights,  so  named 
because  Louis  XI.,  who  in  1469  created  the  order  of  St.  Michael, 
presided  at  the  first  reunion  of  the  knights,   which  was  held  there. 

After  making  the  tour  of  the  abbey,  we  were  almost  famished, 
and  descended  the  stone  steps  with  more  alacrity  than  we  mounted 
them.  Below  the  dining-room  of  the  Hotel  Poulard  Aine,  is  the 
neat  kitchen  with  its  great  fire  of  logs,  where  we  watched  Rime. 
Poulard  make  one  of  the  omelettes  for  which  she  is  famous.  The 
long-handled  pan    reached   over    two    rows  of    chickens,   sputtering 


AND    HER    GUESTS 


MONT  ST.    MICHEL,    GRAXl'lLLE,   AND  JERSEY 


453 


and  sizzlins;'  on  a  s[iit  before  tlic  flames,  and,  believe  me,  the 
dinner  tasted  all  the  belter  because  we  had  seen  it  cooked.  Be- 
sides the  omelette  and  chicken,  we  had  delicious  fried  fish,  bread 
and  fruit;  all  for  two  francs  and  fifty  centimes.  For  such  a  dinner, 
we  would  have  paid  at  least  eight  francs,    in   Paris. 

Afterwards,  we  went  down  on  the  sands  to  watch  the  tide 
come  in, — everybody  does.  Some  venturesome  couples  went  out 
on  the  rocks  and  sat  there  until  the  water  touched  their  feet.  In 
five  ininutes,  the  place  where  they  had  been  was  covered  with  the 


MONT    ORGUEIL    CASTLE 

rushing  water,  curling  up  and  lashing  the  stone  ramparts  above. 
An  old  fishwife  told  me  that  when  tlie  sea  was  highest,  at  certain 
times  of  the  year,    it  even  reached  the  village. 

The  women  of  Normand)'  generally  wear  caps,  which  are  un- 
becoming. In  other  respects,  their  costume  differs  little  from  that 
of  other  French  peasants. 

It  is  onlv  a  short  distance  from  Mont  St.  Michel  to  Granville, 
one  of  the  most  important  fishing  towns  on  the  Norman  coast. 
Cod  is  brought  there  in  large  quantities  from  Nova  Scotia,  and 
sent  with  other  fish  and  oysters  to  Paris.  We  engaged  a  room 
for  the  night  in  one  of  the  old-fashioned  inns  on  the  beach,  so  that 
we  could  walk  along  the  strand,  past  the  homes  of  the  fishermen. 
Some  of    these    humble    folk   were    sitting    out    on    their   doorsteps. 


454 


MOXT  ST.   MICHEL,    GRANVILLE,  AND  JERSEY 


eating  their   evening    meal  of    porridge,    the  women  wearing  a  pic- 
turesque headdress  of  white  Hnen. 

The  following  morning,  we  iml)arkfd  iur  the  island  of  Jersey, 
reaching  St.  Heliers  in  the  afternoon.  Walking  about  the  princi- 
pal squares,  we  saw  the  statue  of  Queen  Victoria,  and  visited  a 
number  of  shops.      The  display  of  metal  work  is  very  fine,  and  old 

Norman  designs  are  copied  in 
bric-a-brac  and  jewelry.  There 
is  a  fort  at  St.  Heliers,  and 
one  sees  nearly  as  many  British 
soldiers  on  the  street  as  at  Gi- 
braltar. The  island  is  indented 
bv  bays,  the  coast  terminating 
in  high  rocks.  We  longed  to 
sta)-  and  wander  about  the  old 
castle  of  Mont  Orgueil  and  take 
a  trip  to  the  Corbiere  light- 
house, but  we  were  compelled 
to  take  the  boat  the  next  morn- 
ing for  Portsmouth. 
Although  the  Channel  Islands  are  productive,  the  chief  export 
of  Jersey  and  Guernsey  is  cattle.  The  breed  of  Jersey  is  that 
commonly  known  as  Alderney,  kept  pure  by  stringent  laws  against 
the  importation  of  foreign  animals.  While  at  St.  Peter-le-Port, 
Guernsey,  the  boat  took  on  five  Guernsey  cows,  a  breed  larger 
than  the  Alderney.  They  were  tan  colored,  with  big,  white 
blotches,  and  great,  soft  eyes.  Here  also  4,000  baskets  of  to- 
matoes were  loaded  for  the  London  markets. 

The  Needles  were  a  fine  sight,  springing  up  from  the  water 
like  marble  monuments  to  shipwrecked  mariners. 

In  the  harbor  at  Cowes  there  were  many  fine  yachts.  The 
Queen  is  expected  at  Osborne  in  a  couple  of  days.  Yesterday  the 
Princess  Maud  of  Wales  was  married  to  Prince  Charles  of  Den- 
mark, and  we  learn  that  the  elite  of  England  are  still  in  London, 
and  that  the  hotels  are  crowded.  However,  we  shall  not  borrow 
trouble,  as  we  have  not  yet  failed  to  find  a  place  to  lay  our 
heads. 


CORBIERE    LIGHTHOUSE 


CHAPTER    XXVIII 
LONDON 

■   O  not    be  surprised    if   this  letter  smacks  of   Anglomania, 
^\     for  we  are    overjoyed    to  find    England    all   that   is  sub- 
stantial  and    delightful.       The    country   is    beautiful,   the 
i     architecture,    dignified,   and    the    people,    well-mannered. 
Even    the    policemen  are  courtesy  personified,  and   have 
the  geography  of  the  city  at  their  tongue's  end.      London 
,/   I  ^     may  be  more  corrupt    than  other   cities,  but   she  seems    to 
have    the    ability  to  conceal  the  fact.      We   have  visited    the 
most    important    places    of    interest,    and    have    been    out    in    the 
evening   to  the  theater,    unescorted,    without    suffering   the  slightest 
annoyance. 

One  is  greatly  impressed  by  the  enormous  amount  of  business 
transacted  in  the  City.  The  principal  thoroughfares  are  so  jammed 
with  vehicles  that  it  is  not  unusual  for  a  blockade  to  occur  several 
times  in  the  course  of   an  hour. 

London  has  had  an  eventful  history,  and  we  are  reminded  of 
it  at  every  turn.  It  became  important  soon  after  the  Romans  set- 
tled in  England,  which  Caesar  was  the  first  to  invade.  Few  years 
pass  without  the  discovery  of  Roman  foundations.  Nothing  definite 
is  known  of  the  population,  until  within  three  centuries.  In  the 
1 6th  century,  London  was  less  than  half  the  size  of  Paris,  but  the 
number  of  inhabitants  has  increased  steadily,  until,  according  to 
the  census  of   1896,  there  are  4,432,271. 

It  is  one  of  the  sights  of  a  lifetime  to  stand  upon  Waterloo, 
Tower,  or  London  bridge,  and  see  the  splendid  buildings  that  rise 
from  the  imbankments.  As  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  there  are 
countless  spires  and  domes,  while  the  strong  walls  and  yawning 
moat  of   the  Tower,    the  slow,  even  current  of  the  river  tvpify  the 

455 


WESTMINSTER    ABBEY 


458 


LONDON 


strength,  tenacity  and  progress  which  has  made  Great  Britain  one 
of  the  powers  of  the  earth. 

Paris  is  a  city  of  cafes,  London  of  signs;    wherever  one  goes, 
he    is    confronted    with    staring    posters    setting  forth  the  merits  of 


MONUMENTS    OF    MALCOLM    AND    BEACONSFiELD 

something, — a  brand  of  chocolate,  or  the  efficacy  of  certain  hver 
pills.  Glaring  bills  plaster  buildings,  fences,  and  omnibuses,  and 
hies  of  men — generally  aged — patrol  the  sti'eets,  sandwiched  be- 
tween iron  frames  upholding  flaming  advertisements.  These  per- 
sons are  called   ' '  sandwich  men. " 

Londoners  are  a  great  contrast  to  Parisians,  and,  although 
there  are  plenty  of  restaurants  and  grill-houses, — in  lieu  of  cafes, — 
there  are  no  tables  on  the  sidewalks,  no  laughing,  chatty  couples  on 


LONDON  459 

the  streets.  Every  one  seems  to  be  full  of  business;  the  men  look 
solid  and  solemn,  and  the  women,  like  good  wives  and  mothers 
who  have  no  intcrrst  in  iripperv.  In  fact,  most  of  them  are  pos- 
itively dowdy.  Their  carriage  is  often  anything  but  graceful,  and 
it  is  the  fashion  to  wear  the  hair  at  the  back  of  the  head  in  a 
hideous  wad,  called  a  "bun,"  while  the  front  locks  are  frizzled  until 
the  owner  looks  like  a  Soudanese.  Yet  English  women,  though 
lacking  in  wliat  we  call  style,  have  fine  complexions,  and  shapely 
shoulders  which  they  are  overfond  of  exhibiting.  Despite  this  fact, 
they  lack  the  air  of  frivolity  that  characterizes  their  sisters  across 
the  Channel.  While  at  the  theaters,  we  have  noticed  that  the 
men  appear  to  be  weighed  down  by  care,  and  sit  most  of  the 
time  lost  in  thought,  quite  indifferent  to  the  fair  sex.  A  French 
writer  has  said,  '  They  amuse  themselves  gloomily,  according  to 
the  fashion  of  their  nation." 

Generally,  the  first  building  visited  by  the  stranger  is  the 
grand  old  pile,  containing  the  ashes  of  so  many  great  men  and 
women, — Westminster  Abbey.  When  in  6i6,  King  Sebert  founded 
a  church  in  honor  of  St.  Peter,  it  was  placed  west  of  a  Cistercian 
Abbey;  hence  the  name,  Westminster.  The  present  abbey  was 
built  in  the  13th  century  by  Henry  III.  and  his  son,  Edward  I. 
Canon  Farrar  has  said  that  Westminster  is  a  "  theology  in  stone, " 
and  that  "the  prevalent  number  is  three;  triple  height,  triple 
length,  triple  breadth,  to  remind  us  of  the  Trinity."  Its  struc- 
ture is  "cruciform  to  signify  the  Atonement."  "Even  the  geo- 
metrical designs,  which  lie  at  the  base  of  its  ground  plan,  are 
combinations  of  the  triangle,  the  circle,  and  the  oval,  the  symbols 
of  the  Trinity,  eternity,  and  the  saintly  aureole."  Its  architecture, 
with  the  exception  of  the  towers  and  one  chapel,  is  Early  English, 
with  a  touch  of   Norman. 

Once  within,  we  forgot  the  beauties  of  the  church  itself  in 
contemplating  the  monuments.  In  the  north  transept,  is  that  of 
Disraeli,  Lord  Beaconsfield,  twice  prime  minister  of  England.  He 
is  represented  in  his  robes  of  office  and  seems  about  to  address 
an  invisible  audience,  so  natural  is  the  attitude,  so  keen  and  shrewd, 
the  expression  of  the  clear-cut  features.  Here,  also,  side  by  side, 
are  Lord  Chatham,  Sir  John  Malcolm,   and  Sir  Robert  Peel. 


460 


LONDON 


III  the  Pot-ts'  Corner  lie  Tennyson  and  Browning,  and,  near 
l)v,  David  Garrick,  the  actor.  Across  the  aisle  is  a  medallion  on 
which   are  the   tolluwing  lines: — 

"  Liff  is  a  jest;   and  all  things  show  it: 
I  thonght  so  once,  but  now  I  know  it." 

Who  could    have  written   them  but  Gay?      He  sleeps    beneath  the 
pavement,    with    Addison    and    Burns,    while    the    marble    hgure    of 

William    Shakespeare   seems  to 


5Safc, 


watch  over  the  precious  remains 
in  this  chapel  of   St.    Faith. 

It  did  our  hi'arts  good  to 
see  the  bust  of  Longfellow  not 
far  from  the  tomb  ot  Chaucer, 
and  a  beautiiul,  memorial  win- 
dow, dedicated  to  the  poets, 
George  Herbert  and  William 
Cow]ier,  the  gift  of  George  W. 
Childs,  of   Philadelphia. 

The  mosaic  shrine  ol  Ed- 
ward the  Confessor,  in  the  old- 
est jiart  of  the  abbey,  is  but  a 
wreck  of  what  it  once  was. 
Henry  HI.,  who  erected  it,  later 
removed  the  jewels  and  gold 
Willi  which  It  was  adorned,  to 
pay  a  war  debt,  and  r(  lie  hunt- 
ers  have  done   the   rest. 

The  most  splendid  jxirt  of 

THE    SHAKESPEARE    MONUMENT  ^]-,g     gdificC     Is    thc    SUpCrb    Chapcl 

of  Henrv  VII.,  founded  in  1502.  The  brazen  gates,  decorated  with 
roses,  symbolize  the  union  of  the  Houses  of  York  and  Lancaster, 
which  ended  the  Wars  of  the  Roses.  The  fretted  stone  ceiling 
is  considerc-d  the  finest  in  the  world.  On  either  side  of  tlu^  nave 
are  the  black  oak  choir  stalls  of  the  Knights  of  the  Order  of  the 
Bath;  they  are  beautifully  carved.  Below  them,  are  seats  for  the 
three  squires  allowed  each    knight.      The  armorial   bearings  on   the 


THE    POETS'    CORNER,    WESTMINSTER    ABBEY 


462 


LONDON 


seats  are  in  brass,  and  above  are  suspended  a  sword  and  banner. 
The  monument  of  Henry  VII.  and  Elizabeth,  his  wife,  is  inclosed 
in  a  chantry  *  of  brass,    the  work  of  the  Italian  artist,  Torriciano, 


THE     TOWER 


the  man,  by  the  way,  who,  in  his  youth,  quarrelled  with  ^Michael 
Angelo  and  broke  his  nose  with  a  mallet. 

Later,  we  stood  by  the  tombs  of  Elizabeth  of  England  and 
her  unhappy  rival,  Mary,  Oucen  of  Scots.  Long  ago,  these  royal 
women  met  in  a  garden,  with  taunts  and  supplications,  and  yet, 
how  near  to  one  another  are  their  marble  effigies!  Gazing,  we 
wondered  if  their  troubled  spirits  were  at  rest. 

The  Tower  is  the  most  interesting  spot  in  London,  from  a  his- 
torical point  of  view.  The  White  Tower,  erected  by  William  the 
Conqueror,  was  first  a  royal  palace  and  fortress,  next,  a  prison, 
and  now,    it   is  a  government   arsenal.      However,   it  could    still  be 

*  Small  chapel,  generally  containing  the  tomb  of  the  founder. 


LONDON  463 

used  as  a  fortress  in  case  of  war,  and  we  are  told  that  the  moat 
could  be  filled  at  any  time.  Surrounding  the  White  Tower  are 
twelve  others,  and  a  strong  wall.  One  enters  by  the  Lion's  Gate, 
where  once  the  royal  menagerie,  now  at  the  Zo5logical  Gardens, 
was  stationed. 

The  warders  in  and  about  the  Tower  are  soldiers  of  merito- 
rious service,  and  wear  quaint  costumes  consisting  of  baggy  trou- 
sers, belted  blouses  and  wide  hats  of  red  and  black.  Thev  are 
nicknamed  "Beef-eaters,"  as,  in  ancient  times,  the  Yeomen  ot  the 
Guard  were  served  with  rations  of  beef,    daily. 

Within  the  gate  is  a  little  chapel,  where  are  buried,  among 
others,  Lady  Jane  Grey  and  the  Countess  of  Salisbury,  Devereux, 
Earl  of  Essex  and  two  of  the  six  queens  of  Henry  VIII., — Anne 
Bole}'n  and  Catharine  Howard;  these  five  were  beheaded  in  the 
courtyard  oi  the  Tower,  and  a  brass  tablet  marks  the  spot  where 
the  block  stood. 

We  walked  up  the  great  stone  stairs  of  the  White  Tower, 
where  the  bodies  of  the  little  princes,  sons  of  Edward  IV.,  were 
once  hidden.  When  Edward  died,  his  brother,  the  Duke  of  Glouces- 
ter, afterwards  Richard  III.,  declared  his  marriage  invalid,  and  his 
sons  illegitimate.  He  had  them  confined  in  the  tower,  and  soon 
after,  it  was  announced  that  they  were  dead.  Though  the  circum- 
stances seemed  suspicious,  evidently  no  one  dared  accuse  Richard, 
then  on  the  throne,  and  it  was  not  until  twenty  years  later  that 
the  bones  of  the  princes  were  found  beneath  the  stairs.  The  fact 
then  became  known  that,  at  Richard's  command,  the  children  had 
been  smothered  in  their  beds. 

The  collection  of  armor  and  relics  in  the  Banqueting  Hall  and 
Council  Chamber  is  very  interesting;  it  includes  equestrian  figures 
fully  equipped  for  the  tournament,  a  mounted  wax  figure  of 
Elizabeth,  and  the  cloak  upon  which  General  Wolfe  died  at  Que- 
bec,  in   1759. 

The  Crown  Jewels  are  kept  in  the  Wakefield  Tower,  in  a 
glass  case  protected  b}-  an  iron  cage,  and  further,  by  a  strong 
metal  lattice.  It  is  difficult  to  see  them  distinctly,  but,  as  there 
have  been  several  attempts  to  steal  them,  precaution  is  necessary. 
With  the  exception  of  Queen  Victoria's  Crown,  which  contains  the 


A    KNIGHT   IN    ARMOR 


LOXDO.y  465 

famous  rubv  owned  bv  the  Black  Prince,  and  worn  bv  Henry  V.  on 
his  helmet  at  the  battle  of  Agincourt,  the  Regalia  did  not  seem  to 
me  as  fine  as  the  Austrian  or  Saxon  display.  The  vessels  of  gold 
are  not  to  be  compared  to  the  exquisite  works  of  Benvenuto  Cel- 
lini, in  Ital\-,  and  ^■et,  those  collections  are  protected  onl\'  by  a 
glass  case,    and  a  guard. 

When  we  came  away,  a  company  of  Grenadiers,  or  Queen's 
Foot  Guards  were  drilling  in  the  courtyard,  headed  by  a  band  dis- 
coursing martial  music.  They  made  a  splendid  appearance  in  their 
scarlet  uniforms.  The  Grenadiers  are  the  First  Regiment,  and  wear 
scarlet  tips  at  the  side  of  their  helmets  and  a  .scarlet  band  on  their 
forage  caps. 

The  Coldstream  Guards  are  the  Second  Regiment,  and  wear  a 
white  tip  and  band,  while  the  Third,  or  Scots  Guard,  wear  a  plaid 
band  in  the  forage  cap,  but  no  tip;  otherwise,  we  are  told,  the 
uniform  of  the  three  regiments  is  the  same. 

That  evening,  we  attended  the  last  performance  of  the  season, 
at  the  Lyceum  Theater.  ]\Ir.  Forbes  Robertson  and  Mrs.  Patrick 
Campbell  were  the  stars.  They  gave  single  acts  from  fi\e  of  their 
principal  plays,  so  that  we  saw  Mrs.  Campbell  in  a  variety  of 
characters,  all  of  which  she  personated  admirably.  She  is  a  lithe, 
delicate -looking  woman,  with  a  beautiful,  riant  face,  and  an  ex- 
tremely sympathetic  manner.  Mr.  Robertson  is  a  talented  and 
finished  actor,  and  bids  fair  to  stand  at  the  head  of  his  profession. 
As  the  guests  invited  to  the  royal  wedding  are  still  in  town,  the 
theater  was  filled  with  fashionable  people,  making  a  gay  and  varied 
scene. 

The  Parthenon  Sculptures,  in  the  British  Museum,  are  nearly 
black,  now,  while  the  Parthenon  itself  is  not  badly  discolored,  and, 
where  the  marble  has  been  recently  broken,  almost  white.  How 
we  wish  we  could  transport  these  marvellous  carvings  to  the  old 
temple  on  the  Acropolis!  They  belong  to  Greece  rather  than  to 
England,  and,  some  dav,  we  trust  they  will  be  replaced  on  the 
structure  that,    without  them,    seems  forsaken  and  desolate. 

England  has  her  faults,  but  she  is  a  splendid  country,  and  I 
bow  in  homage  to  her  thrift,  and,  most  of  all,  to  her  hero-worship. 
It  seems    to  me    that  there  is  no  more    imposing    monument    than 

3ti 


LONDON 


467 


the  one  in  the  center  of  Trafalgar  Square,  erected  to  Lord  Nelson, 
commemorating  his  heroic  death  at  the  battle  of  Trafalgar,  October 
22nd,  1805,  when  the  British  fieet  destroyed  the  armaments  of 
France  and  Spain. 

From  the  British  Museum,  it  is  only  a  short  drive  to  the 
South  Kensington  Museum.  This  great  institution  is  maintained 
by  the  government  at  an 
annual  expense  of  about 
^'600,000.  The  collec- 
tions are  so  extensive  that 
we  could  do  little  more 
than  catch  a  glimpse  of 
the  principal  objects  of 
interest. 

We  have  enjoyed  im- 
mensely the  annual  exhi- 
bition at  the  Royal  Acad- 
emy, which  alwa}'s  at- 
tracts so  many  distin- 
guished people;  now  and 
then,  one  even  rubs  el- 
bows with  roj'alty.  It 
was  amusing  to  see  a 
party  of  tourists,  prob- 
ably '  'Cookies, "  (as  those 
conducted  by  Cook's 
agents  are  often  termed), 

rushing   through     the  Trafalgar  square 

rooms,  barely  glancing  at  the  pictures,  evidently  for  the  sole  purpose 

of  saying,   "I  have  'done'  the  National  Gallery,  in   London." 

Mr.  Orchardson's  portraits  are  magnificent,  and  there  is  a 
wonderful  combination  of  yellows,  called  "Clytie, "  which  bears 
the  name  of  Sir  Frederick  Leighton,  the  late  president  of  the 
Academy. 

I  have  forgotten  to  tell  you  where  we  -are  stopping.  In  the 
first  place,  upon  reaching  London,  we  decided  that,  for  once,  we 
would  go    to    a    fashionable    hotel,   and   thus    have  an    opportunity 


468  LONDON 

to  study  London  styles,  for,  as  I  have  said  before,  tlie  best 
people  are  in  town.  However,  on  entering  the  Hotel  Cecil, 
we  were  dismayed  at  the  sight  of  the  decollete  gowns  worn 
b\'  women  wlio  were  promenading  up  and  down,  after  dinner,  and 
we  concluded  that  it  was  too  fashionable  for  us,  and  that  our  simple 
travelling  dresses  would  be  more  in  keeping  with  a  quieter  place. 
We  are  now  at  a  family  hotel  on  Howard  Street,  near  the  Strand, 
and  within  two  minutes'  walk  of  a  dozen  lines  of  omnibuses,  which 
is  very  convenient.  The  terms  are  low  for  room  and  breakfast, 
and  other  meals  we  take  in  our  room,  or  wherever  we  happen  to 
be.  The  breakfast  is  quite  as  elaborate  as  a  dinner,  and  on  the 
buffet,  at  one  side,  are  cold  joints  trom  which  one  can  order  a 
slice.  The  servants,  like  all  English  domestics,  are  quiet,  attentive 
and  deferential,  a  welcome  change  from  those  in  Paris.  All  about 
our  hotel  are  famous  old  houses  once  occupied  by  noblemen,  but 
now  used  for  business  purposes.  Not  five  minutes'  walk  from  here 
is  Somerset  House,  a  palace  in  itself. 

We  had  a  quiet,  restful  Sunday  morning,  and  in  the  afternoon 
attended  the  song  service  at  St.  Paul's.  Old  St.  Paul's,  begun  in 
1087,  was  probably  the  third  Christian  church  to  occupy  this  site. 
In  1 56 1,  it  was  injured  by  fire  and,  during  the  reign  of  James  I., 
the  dilapidated  nave  became  a  rendezvous.  "Crowds  of  merchants 
with  their  hats  on  transacted  business  in  the  aisles,  and  used  the 
font  as  a  counter  upon  which  to  make  their  payments;  lawyers  re- 
ceived clients  at  their  several  pillars;  and  masterless  serving-men 
waited  to  be  engaged  upon  their  own  particular  bench.  Besides 
those  who  came  on  business  there  were  gallants  dressed  in  fashion- 
able finery,  so  that  it  was  worth  the  tailor's  while  to  stand  behind 
a  pillar  and  fill  his  table-books  with  notes.  When  the  cathedral 
was  being  rebuilt  Sir  Christopher  Wren  made  a  strict  order  against 
an}-  profanation  of  the  sacred  building." 

Near  by,  once  stood  the  famous  Cross  of  St.  Paul,  where  the 
Pope's  condemnation  of  Luther  was  read  in  the  presence  of  Car- 
dinal Wolsey,  and  where  heretics  were  brought  to  recant,  and 
witches  to  confess. 

The  present  St.  Paul's,  liegun  in  1673,  after  designs  by  Sir 
Christopher  Wren,    is  the    third    largest    church   in    the  world,    and 


470  LONDON 

ranks  next  to  the  cathedral  of  Milan.  Its  architecture  is  I'eally 
Gothic,  though  the  details  are  classic.  On  each  side  of  the  fa9ade 
is  a  bell  tower,  222  ft.  high;  one  contains  the  largest  bell  in  Eng- 
land, weighing  sixteen  tons;  the  other,  the  most  delightful  chimes 
I  have  ever  heard, — a  merry  tumbling  of  sweet  sounds,  as  if  each 
bell  were  racing  with  the  others  in  some  mad  play. 

The  interior  is  rich  in  construction,  but  poor  in  decoration. 
Among  the  notable  monuments  are  those  of  the  Duke  of  Welling- 
ton, Lord  Nelson,  and  Alajor  General  Gordon,  who  was  killed  at 
Khartoum  in    1885. 

It  is  going  from  the  sublime  to  the  ridiculous  to  take  )'ou  from 
a  cathedral  to  the  monke}'  cage  at  the  "Zoo,"  but  there  we  went 
on  Monday.  Such  rascals  as  they  were,  from  the  hoary-headed 
grandpa  to  the  babies!  After  walking  about  for  an  hour,  we  seated 
ourselves  on  one  of  the  benches  which  line  the  roadway.  There, 
the  elephants  and  camels  are  led  up  and  down,  laden  with  merry 
boys  and  girls,  and  squealing  babies  in  their  nurses'  arms;  some 
of  the  more  venturesome  lads,  scorning  the  comfortable  howdah,  sit 
astride  on  the  animal's  neck.  I  had  bought  some  sponge  cakes,  on 
my  way  to  the  "Zoo, "for  a  little  lunch,  and  they  lay  in  my  lap 
in  a  paper  bag  that  might  have  contained  milliner}^  for  aught  the 
public  knew;  but  one  elephant  was  not  deceived.  He  "sized  up" 
that  package  from  afar,  with  his  little,  twinkling  eyes,  and  scooped 
it  up  from  my  lap.  By  the  time  I  had  grasped  the  situation,  the 
lunch  was  rapidly  disappearing  down  the  throat  of  the  sneak  thief. 
You  should  have  heard  the  shouts  of  the  people!  On  his  next  trip, 
the  same  elephant  poked  his  trunk  into  the  lap  of  nearly  every 
one  along  his  wav,  in  his  eagerness  to  get  another  tempting  morsel. 
I  only  hope  the  paper  did  not  give  him  indigestion. 

The  Zoological  Gardens  are  said  to  be  the  finest  in  the  world, 
and  occupy  a  large  portion  of  Regent's  Park,  which  was  laid  out 
during  the  reign  of  George  III.  There  are  over  2,000  animals 
and  birds  in  the  collection. 

The  Parliament  Buildings,  or  new  Palace  of  Westminster,  in 
the  richest  Gothic  style,  cover  eight  acres  on  the  banks  of  the 
Thames,  and  are  most  imposing  when  viewed  from  the  river. 

Upon  entering,  we  were  conducted  to  the  Queen's  Robing  Room, 


472 


LOXDO.V 


furnished  with  a  canopied  dais  and  chair,  and  some  laro;e  tables. 
It  is  decorated  with  beautiful  frescoes,  illustrating  the  legends  of 
the  Round  Table.  From  this  room,  the  Queen  passes  through  a 
great  hall  to  her  throne  in  the  House  of  Lords,  to  open  Parlia- 
ment. 

The    House    of   Lords    is    sumptuous    in    the    extreme.      It    is 
lighted    by   twelve    stained    glass    windows,    containing  the  portraits 


THE    HOUSE   OF    LORDS 


of  the  rulers  of  England  since  the  Conquest.  On  the  right  of 
the  Queen's  throne,  is  a  lower  one  for  the  Prince  of  Wales;  that 
intended  for  the  sovereign's  consort  is  on  the  left.  The  woolsack, 
a  kind  of  ottoman  on  which  the  Lord  Chancellor  sits,  is  directly 
in  front  of  the  throne.  There  are  red  leather-covered  seats  on  the 
floor  for  the  550  peers,  and  galleries  for  strangers. 

The  House  of  Commons,  beyond  the  Central  Hall,  is  plainer 
than  the  House  of  Lords.  The  Speaker's  seat  occupies  a  posi- 
tion corresponding  to  that  of  the  woolsack  in  the  House  of  Lords. 
The  benches  on  the  right  of  the  Speaker  are  the  seats  of  the 
Government  party,  those  on  the  left,  of  the  Opposition. 


LOXDON 


473 


Westminster  Hall  is  part  of  the  ancient  Palace  of  Westmin- 
ster, and  now  forms  a  vestibule  to  the  Houses  of  Parliament.  It 
has  a  wonderful  oaken  ceilinc;,  and  contains  several  statues  of  Eng- 
lish monarchs.  Coronation  festivals  were  held  here;  here,  also, 
Charles  I.  was  condemned,  and  here  Cromwell  was  saluted  as  Lord 
Protector.  It  is  said  that,  after  the  removal  of  Cromwell's  body 
from  Westminster  Abbev,  his  head  was  exposed  with  those  of  two 


others  on  the  pinnacles  of  Westminster  Hall,  for  twentv-five 
vears.  A  hi^h  wind  finallv  blew  it  to  the  "round,  where  it  was 
found  by  a  sentry;  it  afterward  came  into  the  possession  of  a  Dr. 
Wilkinson,  one  of  whose  descendants  still  claims  it. 

The  best  shops  are  in  Bond  and  Regent  Streets,  and  Picca- 
dilly; they  seem  quite  as  attractive  as  those  in  Paris,  though  the 
prices  are  higher. 

In  an  elegant  cafe  on  Regent  Street  we  were  able  to  procure 
a  glass  of  ice  cream  soda  water,  the  first  we  have  had  since  leav- 
ing America.  It  was  flat  and  insipid.  Upon  a  counter  in  front  of 
the  fountain,  was  a  row  of  layer  cakes,  from  which  people  cut  their 
own  pieces.      It  was  the  best  cake   I   ever  tasted  ! 

The  Aerated  Bread  Companv  have  a  large  number  of   eating 


474 


LOXDON 


houses  scattered  over  the  business  portion  of  the  city,  and  shop- 
pers find  them  very  convenient,  and  the  prices  reasonable.  One 
can  j2;et  quite  a  respectable  luncheon  for  a  shillinj^. 

The  liveliest  square  in  London  is  that  upon  which  arc  situated 
the  Bank  of  Euf^land,  the  Royal  Excliange,  the  Stock  Exchange 
and  the  Mansion  House,  where  the  Lord  Mayor  resides.  It  is 
dangerous,   and  sometimes  impossible,    to    cross    anv  of   the  streets 


BUCKINGHAM    PALACE 

that  radiate  from  this  square,  without  the  aid  of  a  policeman.  Here, 
the  omnibuses  are  in  a  constant  state  of    intanglement. 

The  Bank,  founded  in  1694,  has  the  exclusive  privilege,  in 
London,  of  issuing  paper  money.  The  vaults  usually  contain 
;^  20, 000, 000.  The  building  is  only  one  story  high,  and  has  no 
outside  windows,  being  lighted  solely  from  interior  courts. 

It  is  verv  interesting  to  view  the  principal  thoroughfares  from 
the  top  of  an  omnibus,  al)out  five  in  the  afternoon,  when  they  are 
filled  with  rushing  streams  of  vehicles  and  pedestrians.  The  con- 
ductors drum  up  passengers  for  the  omnibuses,  whenever  they 
stop,  shouting  out  the  various  points  of   interest  along  the  line. 

One  pleasant  route  leads  to  Hyde  Park,  which  covers  nearly 
400  acres.      Among  the  most  important  of  the  nine  carriage  entran- 


476 


LONDON 


ces  is  Hyde  Park  Corner,  near  which  is  an  equestrian  statue  of  the 
Duke  of  WeUington.  A  track  called  "Rotten  Row"  is  used  ex- 
clusively by  equestrians.  From  the  seats  placed  along  the  sides, 
one  can  see  the  wealth  and  fashion  of  London  enjoying  their 
favorite  exercise. 

North  of  St.  James's  Park  is  St.  James's  Palace,  erected  by 
Henry  VIII.  in  1532.  The  initials  "H.  A. ,"  those  of  Henry  and 
Anne  Boleyn,  are  above  the  mantel  in  the  Presence  Chamber. 
Queen  Victoria  and  Prince  Albert  were  married  in  the  Chapel 
Royal    of    St.     James's,    and    until    the    deatli    of    the     Prince,    the 


DETAIL,  ALBERT    MEMORiAL 

Queen's  Levees,  to  which  only  gentlemen  are  admitted,  and  the 
Drawing  Rooms,  at  which  ladies  are  presented,  were  held  in  this 
palace. 

Buckingham  Palace,  at  the  west  end  of  St.  James's  Park,  is 
the  Queen's  residence,  when  in  town.  Last  week  this  palace  was 
thronged  with  royal  guests  and  members  of  the  Court,  who  were 
there  assembled  for  the  wedding  festivities  of  the  Princess  Maud. 
She  must  be  a  great  favorite,  judging  from  the  expressions  of  ad- 
miration and  affection  that  we  hear  daily. 


478  LOXDON 

In  Kensington  Gardens,  adjacent  to  Hyde  Park,  is  the  archi- 
tectural, memorial  monument  erected  by  the  Queen  and  her  people 
to  Albert,  Prince  Consort.  It  is  of  granite,  bronze  and  marble, 
the  groups  of  figures  at  the  four  corners  of  the  base  being  espe- 
cialh'  fine. 

In  the  earl\-  part  of  the  17th  century,  "the  taverns  of  Lon- 
don held  a  very  important  place.  The  Boar's  Head  in  Great 
Eastcheap  was  an  inn  of  Shakespeare's  own  day,  and  the  char- 
acters he  introduces  into  his  plays  are  really  his  own  contem- 
poraries." At  the  London  Tavern,  formerly  King's  Head,  Oueen 
Elizabeth  took  her  first  meal  after  being  liberated  from  the  Tower. 
On  Bishopgate  Street  Within,  near  its  junction  with  Threadneedle 
Street,  is  a  restaurant,  once  one  of  the  finest  houses  in  the  city  and 
occupied  by  the  Duke  of  Gloucester,  afterward  Richard  III.  It  is 
called  Crosby  Hall  and  is  mentioned  by  Shakespeare.  "At  the 
Mermaid  Ben  Jonson  may  be  supposed  to  have  had  such  rivals  as 
Shakespeare,  Raleigh,  Beaumont,  Fletcher,  Carew,  Donne,  Cotton, 
and  Selden,  but  at  the  Devil  in  Fleet  Street,  where  he  started 
the  Apollo  Club,  he  was  omnipotent." 

Fleet  Street  to-day  is  a  sober  thoroughfare  filled  with  shops, 
but  at  every  turn  in  the  central  part  of  London,  one  is  brought 
face  to  face  with  its  history,  in  which  great  men  long  dead,  and 
the  women  who  influenced  them,  played  such  an  important  part. 
In  our  admiration  of  the  city  of  to-day,  and  in  the  excitement  of 
viewing  strange  scenes  and  customs,  we  must  not  forget  to  honor 
those  to  whom   honor  is  due. 

Early  yesterday  morning,  we  started  for  Waterloo  Station  on 
our  wav  to  Hampton  Court,  the  largest  royal  palace  in  Great 
Britain;  it  is  about  an  hour's  ride  from  London.  While  we  were 
waiting  for  the  train,  a  long  line  of  children  from  six  to  twelve 
years  old,  each  with  a  green  ticket  labelletl  "Fresh  Air  Fund" 
about  the  neck,  began  filing  into  the  waiting  room.  All  were 
dressed  in  what  was  plainly  cast-off  ck)thing;  one  little  girl  had 
on  a  very  long,  black  skirt  and  a  blue  silk  basque,  made  for  a 
woman  of  thirty,  belted  to  her  little  figure  with  a  soiled,  pink  rib- 
bon; a  wide  lace  collar  completed  the  costume.  Others  wore  old 
velvet  or  silk  dresses,  embroidered  stockings  with  holes  in  the  heels, 


LOXDON  479 

and  slippers.  I  asked  onc^  of  the  ladies  in  charge  who  the  chil- 
dren were,  and  she  said  that  they  belonged  to  a  mission  connected 
with  the  Ragged  Schools,  and  were  going  to  Bushy  Park  for  a 
day's  t)uting.  Most  of  them  looked  old  and  careworn  bc_\()nd  their 
years,  but  one  little  creature,  with  big,  ugly  shoes,  had  life  enough 
for  the  whole  company.  She  was  surely  some  waif  from  the  dance 
halls,  for  she  could  not  keep  her  feet  still,  but  amused  the  by- 
standers by  executing  fancy  dances,  and  the  last  we  saw  of  her,  as 
she  entered  a  special  train,  one  leg  was  poised  in  the  air  in  true 
ballet  fashion,  and  her  elhsh  face  was  brimming  over  with  enjoy- 
ment and  anticipation  of    the  day's  delights. 

The  Palace  of  Hampton  Court  was  founded  by  Cardinal  Wol- 
sey  in  15 15,  and  presented  b\-  him  to  King  Henry  VHI.  Later 
on,  the  Stuart  line,  and  also  Crtmiwell,  occupied  it.  The  scene 
represented  in  Pope's  "Rape  of  the  Lock''  occurred  here.  From 
the  Thames  the  palace  is  imposing,  but,  not  occupying  an  elevated 
position,  it  loses  in  dignity  when  viewed  from  other  directions. 

We  entered  by  Anne  Bolevn's  Gateway,  and  ascended  a  stair- 
case leading  up  to  the  Great  Hall,  built  by  Henry  VHI.  It  is  106 
ft.  in  length,  40  ft.  in  breadth,  and  60  ft.  in  height.  Fine  tapes- 
tries adorn  the  walls,  and  the  ceiling  is  in  the  Perpendicular  Gothic 
style. 

The  valuable  collection  of  pictures  fills  about  twenty  rooms. 
Here  is  the  "Triumphal  Procession  of  Caesar"  by  Mantegna, *  a 
wonderful  painting  in  distemper;  also  Sir  Peter  Lely's  ''Beauties 
of  the  Court  of   Charles  H." 

To  the  south  of  the  palace,  in  the  Pond  Garden,  is  a  Black 
Hamburgh  grapevine  128  yrs.  old.  Its  stem  is  thirty-eight  inches 
in  circumference,  and  the  branches  spread  over  2,200  ft.  The 
annual  vield  is  about  1,200  bunches,  each  nearly  a  pound  in  weight; 
most  of    this  fruit  goes  to   Windsor  Castle. 

The  return  from  Hampton  to  London  was  most  delightful. 
Taking  the  front  seat  of  a  double-decked  coach,  we  drove  past 
Diana's  Fountain  and  the  Lion  Gates,  through  Bushy  Park,  on  the 
wa}'  to  Richmond.      Bush\'   Park  is  a  royal  property  of  1,000  acres, 


■Italian  painter,  143 1- 1506. 


LONDON  48 1 

and  contains  more  than  that  number  of  tame  deer  The  roads  are 
lined  with  enormous  horse-clicstnut  trees,  planted,  it  is  said,  liy 
William  III.  Each  season  when  they  are  in  blossom,  thousands 
of  city  folk  come  to  witness  the  sight. 

Bowling  across  "Twickenham  Town,"  we  passed  the  tine  resi- 
dence of  Mr.  Labouchere,  M.  P.,  occupying  the  site  of  the  poet 
Pope's  old  honie,  on  the  banks  of  the  Thames.  Our  hearts  gave  a 
leap  as  we  spied  some  little  boats,  and  recalled  the  refrain  of 
"  Twickenham   Ferr)'." 

Alighting  in  front  of  Talbot's  at  Richmond,  we  immediately 
set  out  for  Billet's  to  secure  some  of  the  celebrated  ' '  Maids  of 
Honor, "  a  dainty  cheese  cake,  the  recipe  for  which  was  furnished 
by  one  of  the  maids  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  These  cakes  are  made 
by  beating  milk  curds  with  sugar,  eggs  and  lemon  juice;  this  mixture 
is  put  into  puff  paste  shells  and  baked. 

Kew  Gardens,  further  on,  with  their  many  hothouses,  are 
among  the  finest  in  England.  Kew  Palace,  where  George  III.  and 
Queen  Charlotte  lived  many  years,  is  an  old  brick  building  with  a 
quaint  chapel  near  hw  containing  an  organ  on  which  Handel  played. 

At  Kew  we  embarked  on  a  Thames  river  boat,  and  for  several 
hours  enjoyed  a  quiet  sail,  passing  many  interesting  places,  includ- 
ing Putney  and  Chelsea.  The  latter  is  called  the  "cradle  of  great 
men,  "as  it  was  the  home  of  Carlyle,  Rossetti,  Leigh  Hunt,  Dean 
Swift  and  other  celebrities.  The  Thames  is  a  beautiful  river,  frinsred 
for  miles  with  low  willows;  the  tasteful  boathouses  and  pleasure 
craft  belonging  to  noblemen,  who  have  villas  near  the  banks,  add 
much   to  its  attractions. 

A  delightful  afternoon  was  spent  in  the  India  and  Ceylon 
Exhibition,  where  the  mosques,  theaters,  bazaars,  bridges,  and 
artificial  lakes  are  reproductions  of  those  in  the  places  men- 
tioned. Afterwards,  we  had  a  genuine  Indian  dinner,  sitting  under 
the  cooling  breeze  of  a  punka,*  the  cord  being  pulled  by  a  coolie 
in  red  and  white,  while  others  served  the  meal.  The  menu  con- 
sisted of  the  following  dishes;  thick  soup  powdered  with  rice,  boiled 
salmon    served  with    boiled    rice  and  red    pepper    dressing,    chicken 

*  A  fan  suspended  from  the  ceiling. 
31 


482  LONDOX 

and  rice  sprinkled  with  curry  powder,    boiled    ginger  pudding,    and 
preserved  fruits. 

This  morning  found  us  at  the  "Old  Curiosity  Shop"  that 
Dickens  has  made  so  dear  to  us;  it  is  back  of  the  Law  Courts, 
on  a  narrow  street,  a  little  building,  looking  as  if  about  to  tip 
over  with  age,    and  now  used  as  a  junk  shop. 

Taking  a  cab  with  a  well  informed  driver,  we  crossed  London 
Bridge  and  made  a  tour  of  the  section  called  Whitechapel,  w^here 
so  many  dreadful  deeds  occurred  not  long  ago.  The  poverty  and 
degradation  of  this  community  of  Jew  brokers,  second-hand  dealers, 
and  roughs  is  appalling. 

Women  and  children  were  lounging  on  the  sidewalks  and  in 
the  doorways,  unkempt,  dishevelled,  and  unclean.  It  is  strange,  as 
well  as  pitiful,  that,  in  a  city  where  industry  seems  to  hold  full 
sway,  there  should  be  so  many  poor  people.  Nowhere  in  America 
have  I  seen  such  abject  misery  as  in  London.  The  people  seem 
infinitely  more  wretched  than  the  beggars  of  Italy  and  Spain. 
There,  we  saw  little  evidence  of  the  liciuor  habit  among  the  poor. 
Here,  on  the  contrar3^  the  faces  of  the  majority  are  bloated  and 
inflamed  by  drink.  No  matter  how  ragged  Southerners  are,  they 
will  generally  smile  when  spoken  to,  and  seem  to  take  some  com- 
fort out  o[  a  bare  existence,  evidentlv  with  taith  in  brtter  times 
to  come,    but  tliese  poor  creatures  seem   to  have  lelt  hojie   behind. 

We  find  upon  incjuiry  that  the  charities  of  London  are  counted 
by  thousands,  and  that  they  are  well  organized,  as  are  the  in- 
numerable societies  for  promoting  industry.  It  is  said  that,  once 
a  year,  on  "Hospital  Sunday,"  hundreds  of  charitable  women  stand 
on  the  street  corners  to  collect  alms  for  the  hospitals,  while  vol- 
untary subscrijitions  to  benevolent  objects  amount  to  more  than 
/^5, 000,000  annually.  Too  much  praise  cannot  be  given  to  the 
aien  and  women  of  London,  who  are  devoting  their  time,  strength, 
and  money  to  the  elevation  of  moral  and  physical  lepers.  May 
these  good  Samaritans  ever  increase  in  number  and  their  "light  so 
shine"  that  the  indifferent  and  the  selfish  mav  be  influenced  by 
their  example,   and  go  and  do  likewise. 


CHAPTER   XXIX 


CASTLES  AND  COLLEGES 


-NE  orazes  at  the  grand  old  Castles  of  England  with 
mingled  feelings  of  admiration  and  regret;  admiration 
for  those  ancient  strongholds,  about  whose  firesides 
.'J  still  gath(.'r  noble  descendants  of  noble  ancestors;  re- 
gret, where  broken  arches  and  shattered  towers  tell  the 
sad  story  of  bitter  dissensions  and  relentless  warfare. 
Windsor,  one  of  the  most  magnificent  of  royal  palaces, 
is  twenty -one  miles  from  London.  The  journey  thither  is  uninter- 
esting, if  one  makes  no  stops;  but,  leaving  the  train  at  the  little 
village  of  Slough,  and  then  walking  along  the  fine,  country  road  to 
Stoke  Pogis,  the  traveller  will  be  well  repaid.  In  the  little  burying 
ground  at  Stoke  Pogis  is  the  tomb  of  the  jioct  Grav,  and  there 
he  composed  his    "Elegy  written  in  a  Countr}-   Churchyard." 


'Beneath  those  rugged  ehns,  that  j'ew  tree's  shade, 
Where  heaves  the  turf  in  many  a  mould'ring  heap, 
Each  in  liis  narrow  cell  forever  laid, 
The  rude  forefathers  of   the  hamlet   sleep. 


'Perhaps  in  this  neglected  spot  is  laid 
Some  heart  once  pregnant  with  celestial  fire; 
Ihiiuls,  that  the  rod  of  empire  might  have  sway'd. 
Or  wak'd  to  ecstacy  the  living  hre. " 


just  before  reaching  Windsor,  we  passed  Eton  College,  an 
English  school  of  wide  renown  founded  by  Henr\-  \'I.,  in  1440. 
Crossing  the  Thames,  the  imposing  proportions  of  Windsor  Castle 
were  in  full  view.  As  early  as  the  period  of  the  Heptarclu',  when 
Entrland  was  divided  into  seven  kingdoms,  a  strouLrhold  existed 
here.      The    Round    Tower  was  built  b}'   Edward   III.,    in   the    14th 

484 


CASTLES  AXD   COLLEGES 


4S5 


centuiy;  its  bell  was  brou.t^ht  from  Sebastopol.  Edward  selected 
the  spot  where,  according-  to  legend,  King  Arthur  used  to  sit, 
surrounded  liy  the  Knights  of  the  Round  Table.  Eacli  succeeding 
sovereign   has  added   to    Windsor. 

The  C)uc-en  occupies  the  rooms  on  the  east  side  of  tlu^  (|uad- 
rangular  court;  they  contain  many  art  treasures,  embracing  a  rare 
collection  of  drawings,    portraits  and  porcelain. 

No  more  magnificent  example  of  English  Gothic  architecture 
exists  than    St.    George's    Chapel.      It    has  a    fan-shaped    vaulting. 


ETON    COLLEGE 

with  hanging  pendants,  and  the  choir  is  incircled  by  the  carved 
stalls  of    the   Knights  of    the   Garter,    with   their  armorial    bearings. 

Adjoining,  is  the  Albert  Memorial  Chapel,  a  perfect  kaleido- 
scope of  colored  marbles,  sculpture,  stained  glass  and  ornate  decora- 
tion, very  rich,  but  overloaded  and  oppressive.  The  tombs  in  the 
center  are  those  of  the  Dukes  of  Albany  and  Clarence ;  the  latter 
was  the  elder  son  of  the  Prince  of  Wales;  there  is,  also,  a  cenotaph 
of  the  Prince  Consort,  who  is  buried  at  Frogmore.  We  saw  the 
gorgeous  mausoleum  through  the  trees  in  the  distance,  as  we  wan- 
dered down  the  long  walk  which  leads  from  the  castle  toward  the 
statue  of  George  IV. 

The  Great  Park  of  Windsor  comprises  1,800  acres,  and  is  well 


CASTLES  AXD  COLLEGES 


487 


Stocked  with  deer.  Some  of  the  oaks  are  of  great  antiquity.  One 
cannot  hclji  remarking  England's  wealth  of  fine  trees.  They  all 
seem  thrifty  and  sturdy;  the  leayes  are  gloss\'  and  hrin,  as  if  the 
soil  were  extremely  fertile. 

From  Windsor  it  is  but  a  few  hours'  ride  to  Oxford,  a  town 
of  Colleges,  celebrated  since  the  13th  centur}'.  It  is,  says  Dean 
Stanley,  "a  mass  of  towers,  pinnacles  and  spires,  rising  in  the  bosom 
of  a  valley,    from   irroyes  which  hide  all  buildings,    but  such  as  are 


f 


THE    QUEEN'S    APARTMENTS,  WINDSOR  CASTLE 

consecrated  to  some  wise  and  holy  purpose."  That  it  is  a  beauti- 
ful spot  calculated  to  inspire  genius,  and  strengthen  noble  purpose, 
none  can  deny.  The  very  atmosphere  of  Oxford  is  exhilarating. 
One  draws  deep  breaths  of  the  sweet,  country  air,  in  the  quiet 
walks  beside  the  river,  and  falls  into  profound  meditation  under 
some  wide-spreading  elm.  The  principal  street,  one  of  the  finest 
in  England,  is  the  High  Street,  which  presents  a  great  variety  of 
architecture. 

The  venerable  appearance  of  many  of  the  college  buildings  is 
caused  not  only  by  time,   but,    we   are  told,    by  the  lawlessness   of 


CASTLES  AND  COLLEGES 


489 


the  students,  who  for  years  have  chipped  off  fragments  of  the 
stone  from  the  casements  of  the  windows  and  doors,  with  their 
sticks,  until  they  look  as  if  they  liad  suffered  in  the  Hundred 
Years'  War.  Howe\'er,  the  Enghsh  ivy  is  gradually  eoyering  the 
walls  with  its  cloak  of  green,  and  soon  the  battered  stone  will  be 
hidden  from  yiew. 

Although   Christ  Church   College,  founded   b)-   Cardmal  Wolsey 
and  reestablished  by   Henry  VIII.,  is  not  the  most  beautiful  of  the 


THE    HALL,  CHRIST    CHURCH    COLLEijE 

colleges,  it  was  the  most  interesting  to  us.  Among  the  students  it 
is  known  as  ' '  The  House. "  We  engaged  a  garrulous  old  man, 
who  had  lived  in  the  ]ilaee  all  his  life,  to  go  about  with  us;  more 
because  we  wished  to  hear  him  talk  than  because  we  really  needed 
a  guide.  The  Great  Quadrangle,  around  which  the  buildings  are 
grouped,  measures  264  by  261  ft.,  and  was  intended  by  Wolsey  to 
be  surrounded  by  cloisters. 

In  the  Towei",  generally  known  as  "Tom  Tower,"  is  a  bell 
called  "Big  Tom."  It  weighs  17,000  pounds;  eyery  night  at  ten 
minutes  past  nine,  it  tolls  one  hundred  and  one  times,  the  signal 
for  closing  the  gates. 

Over  the  entrance  to  the  Hall  is  a  statue  of  Wolsey;  and  the 
escutcheons  of  Henry  VIII.  and  Wolsey  are  carved  on  the  roof 
of  Irish  oak.      This  hall,   115  ft.  long,  is  lined  with  the  portraits  of 


490 


CASTLES  AND  COLLEGES 


eminent  Englishmen.  Here  the  students  dine,  and  here,  on  hard 
wooden  benches.  Sir  Robert  Peel,  Ben  Jonson  and  "  Billy  "  Glad- 
stone (as  our  old  guide  called  him)  ate  their  frugal  meals,  like 
ordinary  mortals,  and  hobnobbed  with  the  "next  boy." 

As  Christ   Church    is    the    official    residence  of    the  sovereign, 
when  in   Oxford,  the  great  Hall   has    been  the  scene  of    many  im- 


THE    BROAD    WALK,   CHR:5T    CHURCH    COLLEGE 


pressive  festivities,  James  I.,  Charles  I.  and  Queen  Elizabeth    hav- 
ing witnessed  plays  enacted   there. 

The  Chapel,  a  part  of  which  formerly  belonged  to  St.  Frides- 
wide's  Priory,  is  unique  in  architecture,  and  one  lingers  long  before 
the  fine  Norman  doorwa)-.  The  vaulted  roof  is  of  Wolsey's  time, 
and,  at  the  left  of  the  choir,  is  the  reputed  shrine  of  St.  Frides- 
wide,   who  died  in  740. 


CASTLES  A\D  COLLEGES 


491 


From  the  dim,  ({uiet  vestibule  we  stepped  out  into  the  glow- 
ing sunshine,  and  crossed  the  meadows  by  a  broad  walk  bordered  by 
venerable  elms.  How  inviting  this  shade  must  be  to  the  students, 
who  can   muse  or  study  on   the  comfortable  seats  beneath! 

Many  quaint  customs  cling  to  Queen's  College,  so  named  after 
its  patroness.  Queen  Philippa,  wife  of  Edward  III.  .At  Christmas 
dinner,  a  boar's  head  is  served.  It  is  brought  intn  the  I  bill  at 
the    head    of    a    procession,    while    the    students  sing  an   old    Latin 


MAGDALEN  COLLEGE,  OXFORD 

song.  "Every  New  Year's  day  the  bursar  offers  his  guests  a 
needle  and  thread,  coloured  red,  yellow  and  blue,  for  the  three 
faculties,  Law,  Physic,  and  Divinity,  with  the  words,  '  Take  this 
and  be  thrifty';  a  custom  which  is  supposed  to  have  originated  in 
the  founder's  name,  Aignillc-fil,  'needle'  and  'thread.'"  In  old(>n 
times,  beggars  were  fed  daily  at  Queen's.  Probably  it  was  safer 
to  have  such  a  custom,  then,  than  now. 

But  it  is  Magdalen*  College    that  we  love  to  remember,  with 


*  Pronounced  "  Maudlin. 


492  CASTLF.S  AXD  COLLEGES 

its  stately  towers  and  splendid  quadrangles,  with  its  walks  l)eside 
the  Cherwell,  where  Addison  loved  to  roam.  Fragrant  shrubs  are 
reflected  in  its  still  waters  and  great  trees  spread  their  roots  be- 
neath its  bed.  The  buildings  cover  nearly  eleven  acres  of  ground. 
Pretty  little  fawns  run  beside  their  soft-eyed  mothers  in  the  deer 
park,  or  l)i)und  timidlv  away,  when  a  stranger  approaches  the  elms 
under  which   they  are  browsing. 

In  one  oi  the  principal  squares  of  the  town  is  the  Martyrs' 
Memorial,  commemorating  the  burning  of  three  English  advocates 
of  the  Reformation,  the  Bishops  Ridley  and  Latimer,  and  Cranmer, 
Archbishop  of  Canterbury.  For  Cranmer,  who  was  instrumental  in 
divorcing  Henry  VIII.  from  several  of  his  wives,  we  cannot  feel  as 
much  sympathy  as  ior  the  brave  and  aged  Latimer,  who,  though 
degraded  by  being  stripjied  of  his  clothing  before  the  fagots  were 
lighted,  still  had  the  fortitude  to  speak  words  of  comlort  to  his 
fellow  sufferer,  Ridley.  These  three  martyrs,  like  many  others,  were 
the  victims  of  the  fanatical  queen,  whose  persecution  of  Protestants 
has  given    her  the  name  of  "Bloody  Mary." 

P'ine  Liljraries,  Museums,  Theaters  and  an  Art  Gallery  add  to 
the  attractions  of  Oxford.  It  is  pliyisant  to  think  that  a  man  with- 
out a  title,  and  with  limited  means,  cm  enjoy  the  privileges  of  this 
famous  University;  that  here,  if  nowhere  else,  the  son  of  a  prince 
meets  the  son  of  a  merchant,  on  an  equal  footing.  We  are  told 
that  there  are  American  boys  studying  in  Oxford,  who  are  among 
the   most  promising  pujiils. 

A  little  to  the  north  of  Oxford  lies  P)lenheim,  the  estate  of 
the  Duke  of  Marlborough.  I)V  order  of  Queen  Anne,  an  act  of 
Parliament  transferred  this  estate  from  the  crown  to  J^hn  Churchill, 
the  first  duke  of  Marlborough,  as  a  reward  for  his  victory  in  the 
battle  of  Blenheim,  Bavaria,  in  the  year  1703,  when  the  English 
forces  concjucred  the   French   under   Marshal  Tallard. 

As  we  alighted  at  the  little  station  of  Woodstock,  one  day 
about  noon,  we  tound  that  we  had  just  tour  hours  in  which  to  get 
our  dinner,  and  visit  the  palace  before  the  train  lett  for  Warwick, 
riu.'re  seemed  to  lie  no  hotel,  but  walking  along  the  one  business 
street  of  the  town,  we  discovered  a  modest  restaurant,  and  entered. 
The    proprietor,    who    was  also   the    waiter,  regaled   us    with    gossip 


CASrLES  AXD  COLLEGES 


493 


about  the  great  people  at  the  palace.  As  the  new  duchess  of 
Marlborough  is  an  American  girl,  we  were  naturally  curious  to 
know  what  was  thought  of  her.  This  man  spoke  in  the  most 
flattering  terms  of  her  beauty,  graciousness  and  generosity,  and 
showed  us  a  picture  of  the  evergreen  arch  with  its  "Welcome 
Home!"  erected  at  the  palace  gate,  in  honor  of  the  bride;  and 
another,  of  the  throng  of  servants  who  stood  bareheaded  to  greet 
her,  upon  her  arrival.  He  told  us  that  she  was  to  give  three  large 
entertainments  this  week;  on  Thursday,  she  would  be  "at  home" 
t()  the  gentrv;  on   Frida\',    the  school  children  were  to  have  a  fete 


BLENHEIM    PALACE 

in  the  park,  and  on  Saturday,  the  tenants,  of  whom  there  are  eiglit 
hundred  on  the  estate. 

Passing  through  the  imposing,  triumphal  gate  erected  b}-  the 
first  duchess  of  Marlborough  to  the  victor  of  Blenheim,  we  entered 
the  lodge  and  procured  tickets  of  admission  at  a  shilling  each,  for 
the  house  and  garden.  The  lodge-keeper  was  dressed  in  old-time 
costume,  and  once,  when  a  carriage  came  down  the  drive,  he  took 
up  a  long  staff  with  a  liall  on  top,  and,  placing  himself  at  the 
gate,  with  staff  upright,  stood  there  straight  and  stiff  until  tlie 
equipage  had  passed. 

As  we  walked  uji  through  the  park,  we  noticed  preparations 
for  the  approaching  festivities.  Gay  tents,  under  which  refresh- 
ments were  to  be  served,  were  pitched  here  and  there,  and  men 
were  dragging  iron  fences  mounted  on  wheels  about  the  grounds, 
to  partition  oft    certain  portions. 


494 


CASTLES  AND  COLLEGES 


The  facade  of  the  palace,  325  ft.  in  length,  is  unlike  anything 
we  have  seen  in  England.  The  architecture  may  be  styled  "/r- 
rcgiilar,  with  classic  details."  A  broad  drive  leads  up  to  the 
entrance,  which  has  a  portico  with  huge  Corinthian  columns.  To 
the  right  and  left,  are  curving  colonnades,  something  like  those 
before  St.  Peter's,  in  Rome;  they  terminate  in  towers.  Between 
the  columns  are  large,  green  tubs  containing  tropical  shrubs  and 
orange  trees. 

When  we  stepped  into  the  hall,  there  came  over  us  a  sense 
nf  emptiness  and  melancholy,  that  the  visit  to  other  parts  o(  the 
palace  only  increased.  The  rooms  are  lofty,  and,  save  now  and 
then  an  antique  piece  of  furniture,  the  appointments  are  modern 
and  unsuitable.  The  only  place  that  seemed  homelike  was  a  small 
music  room,  where  some  servants  were  filling  vases  with  white 
sweet  peas  and  maidenhair  ferns. 

The  library,  183  ft.  in  length,  is  finished  in  white  with  gold 
tracing,  the  walls  being  panelled  in  carved  wood;  on  one  side,  is  a 
magnificent,  new  pipe  organ.  Four  polar  bearskins  are  spread  upon 
the  floor.  At  one  end  stands  a  marble  statue  of  Oueen  Anne; 
at  the  other,  a  bust  of  the  great  duke,  but  the  splendid  room  looks 
o-hostlv  and  unfurnished,  and  the  bookcases,  once  holding  80,000 
volumes,  are  emptv.  It  was  dismantled  by  the  late  duke,  who  sold 
the  books  and   most  of  the  pictures  and  furniture,  to  pay  his  debts. 

While  standing  in  the  grand  drawing-room,  we  saw  the  ducal 
pair  at  luncheon,  in  another  apartment.  The  Duchess  was  attired 
in  a  negligee  of  pale  blue  satin  and  white  lace.  The  servants  in 
attendance  wore  powdered  wigs  and  knee  i)reeches.  Later,  the 
Duke  came  out  into  a  hall,  where  we  liappmcd  to  be,  and  s]-)oke 
to  one  of  the  servants.  He  has  a  ])righl,  shrewd  lace,  and  we 
imagine  that  under  his  care,  Blenheim  will  recover  some  of  its 
lost  prestige. 

In  one  of  the  drawing-rooms,  there  is  a  portrait  of  the  present 
duchess  by  Carolus  Duran,  the  eminent  French  portrait  painter. 
He  has  painted  her  as  a  slip  of  a  girl  in  floating  tulle,  without  a 
single  jewel,  yet  the  poise  of  her  head  and  the  firm  grasp  of  the 
wand  in  her  right  hand,  as  she  descends  a  flight  of  steps,  give  her 
an    air    belonging   onlv    to    those    who    are   to  the    "manner  born." 


CASTLES  AND  COLLEGES 


495 


The  picture  is  worthy  to  be  placed  beside  that  of  Queen  Louise 
of  Prussia,  and  makes  Americans  feel  proud.  Not  a  portrait,  in  all 
the  r^alleries  we  have  visited,  is  more  dignified  and  lovel}'  tlian 
that  of   Consuelo,  Duchess  of  Marlborou.^h. 

The  Italian  gardens  at  Blenheim  are  fine  indeed;  here  are 
kept  many  scarlet  and  green  parrots,  and  the  little  spaniels,  of 
which  her  ladyship  boasts  a  hundred. 

We  arrived  at  Warwick  late  in  the  afternoon,  and  found  that 
the  hotel  accommodations  were  limited,  and  the  prices  higher  than 
we    wished    to    pay;    so    we    cast    about    for    private    lodgings.       A 


WARWICK    CASTLE 

woman,  who  kept  a  bookstand,  told  us  that   we  might  get  a  room 
over  a  neighljoring  fruit    store,  and    it    proved    to  be    just  what  we 

wanted. 

When  a  child,  I  was  deeply  impressed  by  Buhver  Lytton's 
story,  the  "Last  of  the  Barons,"  and  the  first  sight  of  Warwick 
Castle  in  its  stately  beauty  filled  me  with  the  same  sense  of  awe 
that  the  exploits    of    Richard    Nevile   did,    then.     As  we  stood    to- 


496  CASTLES  AXD  COLLEGES 

gether  on  the  bridge  over  the  Avon  and  looked  at  the  grand  old 
towers,  the  embattled  walls  and  the  wide,  deep  moat,  now  grass- 
grown,  we  felt  more  than  ever  before  that  there  is  no  majestv  so 
impressive,  so  soul-stirring,  as  that  of  a  great  monument  of  archi- 
tecture, fraught  with  a  history  like  that  of  Warwick. 

From  the  lodge  the  approach  to  the  castle  is  hewn,  for  more 
than  a  hundred  yards,  through  solid  rock,  now  covered  with  the 
most  wonderful  lichens  and  overhung  with  thick  shrubbery.  When 
one    emerges    from    this    avenue    of    green,    he  finds  himself  at  the 


edge  of  the  moat,  over  which  is  an  arch  where  the  draNvbridge 
formerly  swung  out;  beyond,  is  the  great  gate.  There,  the  huge, 
machicolated  towers  of  the  castle  loom  above  one,  like  giants.  That 
on  the  right  is  called  "Guy's  Tower,  "after  the  champion,  Guv  of 
Warwick,  around  whose  career  many  legends  cluster.  It  was 
erected  in  13  lo,  by  Thomas,  Lord  Beauchamp,  and  is  12S  ft. 
high;  its  walls  are  ten  feet  thick.  Through  the  openings,  the  be- 
sieged could  throw  down  sharp  stones  and  molten  lead  upon  the 
heads  of  the  besiegers  below.  In  the  deep  dungeons  of  Ca?sar's 
Tower,  which  is  older  by  two  centuries,  are  curious  inscriptions 
scratched  on  the  wall  by  prisoners  of  war. 

Entering  the  castle,  we  stood  in  speechless  admiration,  for 
here  was  realized  our  dream  of  a  lordlv  hall.  On  the  walls  amid 
branching  antlers  and  other  trophies  of  the  chase,  were  spears, 
swords  and  guns,  as  well  as  colors  that  had  been  through  the 
Crimean  War.  Along  the  sides  ot  the  hall  stood  figures  clad  in 
the  armor  of  earls  long  dead.  The  oaken  chests,  chairs  and  tables 
looked  as  if  intended  for  a  race  of  giants,  while,  in  a  corner,  was  a 
huge  iron  porridge  pot,  and  the  tilting  pole,  sword  and  armor  of 
Guy  of  Warwick.  That  he  was  nine  feet  high  is  a  tale  one  does 
not  doubt,  u]ion  lifting  his  twenty-pound  sword,  or  gazing  at  the 
flesh  tork,  which  he  is  supposed  to  have  used  in  eating.  We  took 
in  our  hands  the  mace  of  Richard  Nevile,  the  "king-maker"  and 
"king-breaker."  It  lay  on  a  table,  above  which  was  a  curious 
shield,  incircled  by  Scottish  swords.  It  is  wrought  in  silver  and 
was  once  l)orne  by  Charles  Edwartl,  the  Pretender,  whose  tomb  is 
in   St.    Peter's. 

The  state  bedroom,  which  has  been  occupied  bv  Queen  Anne, 


CASTLES  AND  COLLF.GKS  497 

Ouccn  Elizalx'th  ;uid  yucca  \'icloria,  contains  sonic  iinc  jiicturcs, 
and  is  hunj;- with  a  sumptuous  ))iccc  of  17th  centur\-  tapestry  from 
Brussels.  An  odd,  little  leather  trunk  with  Ijrass  niounlinns.  once 
used  by  Queen  Anne,   stands  beside    the  bed. 

In  the  library  we  saw  a  bufTet  car\  ed  from  a  majestic  oak 
which  ,i;rew  near  Kenihvorth  Castle.  It  was  a  wedding'  present 
irom  tlu'  county  to  the  late  earl,  on  the  occasion  of  his  mar- 
riage,   in    1852. 

The  famil}'  are  now  travelling,  so  we  were  permitted  to  enter 
their  private  apartments.  From  the  windows  of  the  exquisite  bou- 
doir of  the  Countess,  where  priceless  mosaic  taljles  and  bric-a-brac 
delight  the  eye,  we  looked  out  ui)on  the  l)anks  of  the  Avon,  sluuU-d 
by  lofty  cedars  of  Lebanon,  and  flower  gardens,  where  peacocks 
were  strutting  up  and  down  the  paths,  or  spreading  their  gorgeous 
tails  to  the  sun,  as  they  sat  upon  the  top  of  the  broad  walls. 

On  a  knoll  stands  the  conservatorv  built  to  receive  that  famous 
work  of  art,  "The  Warwick  Vase."  It  was  discovered  at  the  bottom 
of  a  pool  at  Hadrian's  Villa,  near  Tivoli,  Italy,  and  purchased  at 
once  b}'  one  of  the  earls  of  Warwick,  who  placed  it  here.  It  is 
of  pure  white  marble,  magniiieentlv  carved,  antl  has  a  capacitv  of 
163  gallons.  The  rim  is  incircled  by  a  grapevine,  laden  with  fruit, 
which  also  forms  the  handles.  About  the  bowl  is  the  skin  of  a 
panther  with  head  and  claws  attached,  which,  with  a  vine-wreathed 
thyrsus  and  other  emblems  of  Bacchus,  completes  the  design. 

We  did  not  need  to  glance  over  the  pages  of  a  volume  of 
Felicia  Hemans'  poems,  lying  on  a  table  in  the  boudoir,  to  recall 
her  appropriate  lines  on  the    "Homes  of  England": — 

"The  stately  homes  of  lingland, 
How  beautiful  they  stand, 
.\midst  their  tall  ancestral  trees, 
O'er  all  the  pleasant  land! 
The  deer  across  their  greensward  bound 
Through  shade  and  sunny  gleam. 
And  the  swan  glides  past  them  with  the  sound 
Of  some  rejoicing  stream." 

Kenilworth  is  easily  reached  by  carriage  from  Warwick,  so 
one  afternoon  we  engaged  a  landau  and  Ixiwled  along  the  country 


498 


CASTLES  AND  COLLEGES 


roads  between  farms  bounded  by  thick,  closel}-  trimmed  hedges  and 
past  vine-clad  cottages  with  thatched  roofs.  The  gardens  were 
running  over  with  dahhas,  marigolds,  and  phlox;  but  more  brilliant 
than  all  were  the  coaches,  which,  drawn  by  four,  or  even  six,  horses, 
and  hlled  with  gaily  dressed  ladies  and  their  escorts,  dashed  by 
us,  with  horns  at  full  blast,  on  their  way  from  Coventry  to  Strat- 
ford-on-Avon,  the  village  where  the  cottage  of  Shakespeare  still 
stands. 

There  were  many  cyclers,    for  wheelmen  are  not  slow  to  take 
advantage-  of  the  picturesque,  country  roads  of  England.      The  inns. 


RUINS    OF    KENILWOKTH    CAbTLE 

for  many  years  closed,  owing  to  lack  of  business,  are  now  frequented 
by  these  seekers  after  health  and  pleasure,  and  do  a  thriving  busi- 
ness. We  were  amused  by  the  signs,  so  characteristic  of  the  Eng- 
lish. There  was  the  "Punch  Bowl,"  the  "Green  Man,"  and  "The 
Iron  Key."  At  one  of  these  inns,  we  were  refreshed  with  some 
currant  buns  and  a  cuj)  of  tea,  all  for  a  sixpence.  In  Greece  we 
felt  that  we  had  not  breakfasted,  without  Hymettus  honey,  and  in 


AMY    ROBSART 


500  CASTLES  AND  COLLEGES 

Italy,  that  we  had  not  dined,  without  macaroni;  so  here,  we  never 
tire  of  currant  buns. 

Guy's  Chfie  was  our  hrst  stopping-place.  The  beautiful  manor 
house  is  built  on  the  rocky  cliff,  over  a  cave  where  Guy  of  War- 
wick, returning  from  one  of  his  martial  exploits,  sated  with  victories, 
and  weary  of  the  world,  sought  rest  and  peace  in  the  lite  of  a  re- 
cluse. It  is  said  that  he  repaired  to  the  castle  daily  tor  tln^ee  years, 
to  beg  his  bread,  which  he  received  from  the  hand  of  his  own  wife, 
who  did  not  discover  his  identity.  While  mortally  ill,  he  sent  his 
ring  to  her  by  a  messenger,  but  she  reachetl  his  side  only  in  time 
to  bid  him  a  last  farewell.  IK'  was  buried  in  tlie  ca\'e.  The 
mansion  is  now  inhabited  by  a  nobleman  and  his  tamih",  and  there- 
fore clo.sed  to  the  public.  There  is  a  fine  old  Saxon  Mill  not  far 
away,  the  wooden  wheel  now  unused.  This,  with  the  t(.)aming  cas- 
cade, and  the  trees  overhanging  the  river  below  the  house,  makes 
a  delightful  picture. 

We  came  all  too  soon  to  the  picturescjue  ruins  of  Kenilworth 
Castle,  which,  ivy-grown  and  surrounded  by  holI\-  and  hawthorn 
trees,  is  on  the  site  of  a  fortress  once  occupied  by  a  Saxon  king 
named  Kenulph,  and  his  son  Kenelm.  "Worth"  is  the  Saxon  word 
for  dwelling  place,  and,  combined  with  the  king's  name  or  that  of 
the  prince,  forms    "Kenilworth." 

The  castle  was  Iniilt  in  the  reign  of  Henry  I.  During  the 
Wars  of  the  Roses,  it  belonged  alternately  to  the  difierent  factions, 
and  suffered  accordingly.  When  Queen  Elizabeth  presented  Kenil- 
worth to  her  favorite,  Robert  Dudley,  Eail  of  Leicester,  he  at  once 
began  extensive  improvements  and  his  boundless  wealth  and  tine 
taste  enabled  him   to  transform   the  estate  into  a  dream  of  Ijcauty. 

When  quite  voung,  Dudle\'  had  married  Amy,  the  beautiful 
daughter  of  Sir  John  Robsart,  but  the  marriage  did  not  prove  a 
happy  one.  Unscrupulous  and  with  an  overmastering  ambition,  he 
permitted  no  obstacle  to  lie  in  his  ]iath.  Poor  Amy  stood  in  the 
way  of  his  advancement.  Her  death  occurred,  untler  susiiicious 
circumstances,  in  1560.  It  was  said  that  she  broke  her  ncn-k  In' 
falling  down  stairs,  but  facts  were  afterwards  disclosed  which  led 
to  the   belief  that  she  was  murdered. 

Elizabeth   niade   Dudlev  a    Knight  nf  the   Garter,    and  in    1564, 


CASTLES  AND  COLLEGES  501 

Baron  of  Denbicjh  and  Earl  of  Leicester.  The  latter  title  brouj^ht 
him  man\'  honors,  anion^'  them,  the  Chancellorship  of  the  Uni- 
versity of  Oxford.  He  then  contracted  a  secret  marriage  with  the 
dowager  Baroness  of  Sheffield. 

In    1575,    upon    the    conij^letion  of    the  great    bancpiet    hall    of 
Ivcnilworth,  the  liarl  j^ave  such  a  magniiicent  entertainment  in  honor 


QUEEN    ELIZABETH 

of  Queen  Elizabeth  that  it  has  won  a  place  in  history.  The  tete 
lasted  more  than  two  weeks,  at  an  expense  of  /,' 1,000  per  day. 
A  large  number  of  oxen,  sixteen  hogsheads  of  wine  and  forty  of 
beer  were  consumed  daily. 

From  Mervyn's  Tower,  one  can  look  down  into  the  banquet 
hall,  eighty-six  feet  long,  with  its  immense  windows,  and  picture  to 
himself  what  it  must  have  been  in  the  days  of  Queen  Bess. 

The  tilt-yard,   where  the  tournaments  took  place,   lay  between 


502 


CASTLES  AND  COLLEGES 


two  large  towers,  and  was  the  principal  scene  of  entertainments. 
Imagine  the  haughty  Elizabeth,  in  her  jewelled  stomacher  and 
stiff,  brocaded  robes,  escorted  b}'  the  handsome  Leicester,  making 
a  tour  of  the  grounds!  What  must  have  been  her  discomfiture 
and  rage,  when  later  she  discovered  his  second  secret  marriage,  to 


ROBERT    DUDLEY,   EARL  OF   LEICESTER 

the  widow  of  the  Earl  of  Essex,  who,  by  the  way,  also  died  under 
suspicious  circumstances! 

Just  as  we  were  entering  the  town  of  Warwick  on  our  re- 
turn, we  overtook  three  carriages  containing  a  joyous  wedding  party. 
The  bride,  a  pretty  little  blonde,  wore  a  bunch  of  white  roses  in 
the  belt  of  her  muslin  gown;  a  similar  knot  fastened  the  bridal 
veil  to  her  hair.  The  groom  was  very  lanky  and  awkward,  and, 
as  the  bridesmaids  and  groomsmen  made  rhymes  on  his  name, 
"Tommy,"  and  kept  shouting  them  from  one  of  the  rear  carriages, 


CASTLES  AND  COLLEGES  503 

his  face  was  about  the  ct)lor  of  a  piece  of  red  flannel.  We  jogged 
along  behind,  enjoying  the  fun  immensely,  and,  when  they  drew  up 
in  front  of  a  small  church,  waited  a  moment  until  they  had  dis- 
appeared within  and  then  followed  them,  taking  a  rear  seat.  The 
simple  Church  of  England  ceremony  was  soon  over,  and  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  "Tommy"  walked  down  the  aisle,  while  some  little  girls  strewed 
their  way  with  rose  petals  and  daisies. 

It  was  only  a  short  walk  from  this  place  to  St.  Mary's,  a  vener- 
able edifice  where  the  noble  families  of  Warwick  and  Kenilworth  sleep 
their  last  sleep.  The  curate,  who  happened  to  be  in  the  church, 
showed  us  about  and  explained  the  tombs. 

The  Ladve  Chapelle  is  considered  one  of  the  most  exquisite 
examples  of  Gothic  architecture  in  England,  the  stonework  being 
a  mar\el  of  carving.  In  the  center  is  the  tomb  of  Richard  Beau- 
champ,  Earl  of  Warwick,  whose  brass  gilt  effigy  rests  upon  the  top. 
I  copied  a  part  of  the  inscription,  as  the  old  English  is  so  quaint: — 

' '  Preieth  devoutly  for  the  Sowel  whom  God  assoille  of  one  of 
the  most  worshipful  Knightes  in  his  days  of  monhode  &  conning 
Richard  Beauchamp  late  Earl  of  Warrewik  lord  Despenser  of  Ber- 
gevenny  &  of  mony  other  grete  lordships  whos  body  resteth  here 
under  his  tumbe  in  a  fulfeire  vout  of  Stone  set  on  the  bare  rooch 
thewhuch  visited  with  longe  siknes  in  the  Castel  of  Roan  therinne 
decessed  ful  cristenly  the  last  day  of  April  the  j-ear  of  our  Lord 
God  AMCCCxxxix." 

In  the  17th  century,  the  Hoor  of  the  Ladye  Chapelle  fell  in, 
under  the  weight  of  the  tomb,  and  the  casket  was  broken  open.  The 
body,  which  was  perfect,  returned  to  dust,  on  exposure  to  the  air. 
Some  of  the  hair  was  woven  into  rings  by  the  ladies  of  Warwick. 

To  the  left  of  the  chapel,  against  the  side  wall,  is  the  altar-tomb 
of  the  cruel  and  ambitious  Leicester.  The  sculptured  figures  of 
the  earl  and  his  last  wife  are  lying  upon  the  sarcophagi.  The 
curate  told  us  that  the  tomb  was  erected  to  the  earl  by  this  wife, 
and  related  the  manner  of  his  death.  Finding  that  the  woman  who 
bore  his  name  was,  like  his  former  wives,  in  the  way,  Leicester 
resolved  to  rid  himself  of  her.  He  mixed  a  deadly  poison  in  a 
cup  of  wine  and  awaited  the  Countess  in  their  apartments.  On 
her   appearance,    he    was    suddenly    seized   with    vertigo,    and   she. 


504 


CASTLES  AND  COLLEGES 


alarmed,  snatched  tlie  cup  from  tlie  table  and  <:,ravc  it  to  him  to 
drink.  Being  partially  unconscious,  he  swallowed  the  wine,  un- 
awares,   and  died   soon  alter. 

The  little  tomb  of    the    "Noble  impe, "  a  dwarf,    who   was   the 
only  child  of  this  couple,  was  also  pointed  out.      He  too  ma}-  have 


THE    LADYE    CHAFELLE 

been  murdered  at  the  instigation  of  his  father,  Init,  as  history  does 
not  fully  corroborate  these  tales,  we  should  take  them,  like  the 
legends  of  the  relics,  the  lives  of  the  saints,  and  the  doughty 
deeds  of  chivalrv,    "with  a  grain  of  salt." 

With  all  our  anxietv  to  push  on  toward  Liverpool,  and  the 
steamer  which  is  to  take  us  home,  we  shall  be  sorry  to  leave 
England,  for,  altliough  more  like  our  own  country  than  any  other, 
there  is  much  to  learn  on  English  soil.  The  rural  life  is  charac- 
teristic and  charming.  An  Englishman  is  at  his  b(>st  among  In's 
dogs  and  horses,  at  his  country  seat.  The  fre(|uent  showers  make 
the  turf  like  green  velvet,  and  all  vegetable  life  is  luxuriant.  Every 
rod   of  ground  is  judiciously    tilled,    every  tree    and    slirub,    pruned 


CASTLES  .LVD   CO  I.  I.F.C  ES 


505 


with   care  ami   i;()()(l   taste;    in   fact,    the   Eiii^Iish   liome   is  a  paradise 
on  earth. 

••Waving  wliispering  trees, 
Wluit  do  you  say  to  the  breeze 
And  what  says  the  breeze  to  you? 
'Mid  passing  souls  ill  at  ease, 
Moving  murmuring  trees, 
Would  ye  ever  wave  an  adieu?"* 

*  Dante  Gabriel  Rossetti. 


^ 


yjr^^ 


i^^- 


:^ 


CHAPTER   XXX 

HOMEWARD  BOUND! 

HE  English  railway  system  is  as  near  perfection  as  pos- 
^  ■P^\  sible.  No  better  roadbeds  exist,  and,  as  there  are  no 
jfk  PilS  grade  crossings,  accidents  are  almost  unknown.  The 
**''  ^  only  annoying  feature  is  the  management  of  the  baggage. 
Instead  of  having  a  check,  as  in  America,  and  thus  being 
relieved  of  all  responsibility,  at  each  change  of  cars,  one 
must  scramble  over  piles  of  baggage,  to  identify  his  own, 
and  then  watch  the  porter  until  he  has  deposited  it  in  the  van. 
Of  course,  if  one  has  a  maid,  as  English  ladies  generally  have,  it 
does  not  matter  so  much. 

Liverpool  seems  to  have  "turned  the  cold  shoulder"  to  us, 
for,  ever  since  our  arrival,  we  have  been  shivering.  If  it  is  chilly 
here  in  the  middle  of  August,  what  must  it  be  in  midwinter?  But 
perhaps  the  ocean  is  kinder  than  our  lakes. 

Owing  to  its  proximity  to  the  great  coal  districts,  and  to  its 
marvellous  docks,  Liverpool  is  one  of  the  most  important  seaports 
of  the  world.  Probably  no  other  city  has  such  an  extensive  road- 
stead. Thousands  of  vessels  load  and  unload  there,  and  special 
docks  are  set  apart  for  the  use  of  different  nations. 

While  looking  over  some  embroidered  handkerchiefs  in  the  tiny 
parlor  back  of  a  linen  shop,  kept  by  two  orphan  sisters,  I  noticed 
on  the  wall  a  view  in  the  gardens  of  Nymphenburg,  near  Munich. 
Stepping  up  to  examine  it,  I  saw  the  title,  "Silence."  It  was 
significant.  There  were  green  trees,  a  stretch  of  water,  and,  along 
the  edge,  .some  marble  statues,  cold  and  still;  not  a  sign  of  life. 
Suddenly,  I  was  awakened  from  my  reverie  by  the  voice  of  one  of 
the  sisters,  saying,  "Do  you  know  these  gardens,  Madam?"  Learn- 
ing that  I  had  visited  them,  she  plied  me  with  eager  questions. 
It  seemed  that  the  two  girls  had  been  reared  by  their  grandmother, 
a  native  of  Munich,  who  had  recently  died.     They  had  often  heard 

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HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


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her  describe  the  beautiful  gardens,  and  were  naturally  interested  to 
talk  with  any  one  who  had  lately  been  there. 

Wretchedly  poor  people  seem  to  compose  half  the  population 
of  Liverpool,  where  there  is  little  of  architecture  or  art  to  interest 
the  stranger.  St.  George's  Hall,  in  the  center  of  the  city,  is  an 
attempt  at  the    classic  style,  and,  in  the  midst  of    this  atmosphere 


of  commerce,  seems  out  of  place.  In  front  of  it  are  several  statues, 
chief  of  which  is  that  of  the  Queen,  whose  long  reign  has  been  one 
of  England's  greatest  blessings. 

In  her  marriage,  Victoria  was  more  fortunate  than  the  ma- 
jority of  sovereigns.  Albert,  Prince  Consort,  was  a  thoroughly  good 
man,  firm  but  gentle,  princely  yet  modest,  and  their  union  was  glad- 
dened by  many  children.  The  Queen  has  nothing  to  regret.  She 
will  leave  a  noble  history  behind  her,  when,  some  day,  she  is  laid 
beside  her  beloved  husband, — the  record  of  a  pure  maidenhood, 
a  loyal  wifehood,   a  devoted   motherhood  and  a  distinguished  rule. 


We  are  on  board  the  Cunarder,  Umbria,  dear  friend,  and, 
while  I  sit  watching  the  fast  receding  shores  of  old  England,  I  will 
add  a  few  lines  to  this,    my  last  letter  to  you,   from  foreign  parts. 


■1  C'UH.k.    vUEEN    OF    ENGLAND 


HOMFAVARD  BOUXD  509 

You  will  bo  interested  to  know  what  good  compan)-  we  have 
on  board.  The  Ivij^ht  Honorable  Lord  Russell  and  family,  of  Kil- 
lowen,  and  Sir  Frank  Lockwood  and  Lad\-  Lockwood  are  insconced 
in  their  chairs  within  a  few  rods  of  ours.  It  is  a  pleasure  to  watch 
the  fine  face  of  Lord  Russell  light  up  in  conversation.  A  concert 
is,  as  usual,  to  be  given  by  the  passengers,  for  the  benefit  of  the 
"Seamen's  Charities, "  and  we  are  told  that  both  these  families 
are  to  take  part.  Lord  Russell,  as  you  know,  is  one  of  the  most 
brilliant  judges  in  England,  and  we  anticipate  much  pleasure  at  the 
entertainment  over  which  he  is  to  preside. 

There  are  also  several  members  of  the  Ancient  and  Honorable 
Artillery  Company,  of  Boston,  on  board.  This  company  of  gallant 
Americans  has  been  lavishly  entertained  by  the  English  nobilit\', 
and  the  whole  party  are  going  back  to  America  with  the  warmest 
feelings  of  friendship  for  their  cousins  across  the  water. 

We  have  succeeded  in  carrying  out  our  original  plan  regard- 
ing time,  mode  of  travel  and  expenses,  and  looking  backward  over 
our  long  journey,  I  marvel  at  such  good  fortune.  It  would  be  diffi- 
cult to  determine  where  we  have  enjoyed  ourselves  the  most,  for 
everything  has  been  so  interesting. 

In  our  wanderings,  we  have  admired  the  gallantry  and  courtesy 
of  the  Europeans.  We  are  grateful  for  their  invariable  kindness 
to  two  lone  women.  Nevertheless,  we  are  happy  beyond  measure 
to  know  that  America  is  our  home, — America,  where,  with  abilitv, 
honor  and  true  worth,  a  man  or  woman  ot  humble  origin  may  reacli 
the  highest  position,  and,  moreover,  be  received  into  the  best  society. 
For  years,  Europe  has  sent  her  poor,  her  ignorant,  her  helpless  to 
charitable  America,  not  caring  what  became  of  them,  so  long  as 
she  was  rid  of  the  burden.  F"ew  educated  Europeans  really  know 
anything  about  America,  beyond  the  tact  that  she  has  rich  mines, 
Indians,  title  hunting  heiresses,  and  that  Americans  spend  money 
lavishlv.  However,  each  vessel  bound  for  our  shores  now  carries 
a  few  of  the  better  class,  and  we  may  hope  to  be  better  under- 
stood,   before  man\-  3-ears  have  passed. 

My  companion  is  standing  not  far  away,  straining  her  eyes  in 
the  direction  of  the  coast.  An  audacious  breeze  has  caught  her 
veil  and  torn  it  from   the  little  steamer  cap  that  covers  her  bonny, 


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HOMEWARD  BOUND 


brown  hair.  As  I  watch  her  bright  face,  I  remember  afresh  what  a 
pleasant  time  we  have  had  together  and  how  cheery  and  helpful 
she  has  always  been.  We  are  both  joyfully  anticipating  our  return 
home, — home,  the  most  precious  spot  on  earth,  after  all! 

Your  sincere  friend, 

Adelaide. 

"There  is  a  land,  of  every  land  the  pride, 
Beloved  by  heaven  o'er  all  the  world  beside; 
Where  brighter  suns  dispense  serener  light, 
And  milder  moons  emparadise  the  night; 
A  land  of  beauty,  virtue,  valor,  truth, 
Time-tutor'd  age,  and  love-exalted  youth: 
The  wandering  mariner,  whose  eye  explores 
The  wealthiest  isles,  the  most  enchanting  shores, 
Views  not  a  realm  so  bountiful  and  fair. 
Nor  breathes  the  spirit  of  a  purer  air; 
In  every  clime  the  magnet  of  his  soul, 
Touch'd  by  remembrance,  trembles  to  that  pole; 
For  in  this  land  of  heaven's  peculiar  grace. 
The  heritage  of  nature's  noblest  race, 
There  is  a  spot  of  earth  supremely  blest, 
A  dearer,  sweeter  spot  than  all  the  rest, 
Where  man,  creation's  tyrant,  casts  aside 
His  sword  and  sceptre,  pageantry  and  pride. 
While  in  his  soften' d  looks  benignly  blend 
The  sire,  the  son,  the  husband,  brother,  friend; 
Here  woman  reigns;  the  mother,  daughter,  wife, 
Strew  with  fresh  flowers  the  narrow  way  of  life! 
In  the  clear  heaven  of  her  delightful  eye. 
An  angel-guard  of  loves  and  graces  lie; 
Around  her  knees  domestic  duties  meet, 
And  fireside  pleasures  gambol  at  her  feet. 
Where  shall  that  land,  that  spot  of  earth  be  found? 
Art  thou  a  man? — a  patriot? — look  around; 
O  thou  shalt  find,  howe'er  thy  footsteps  roam. 
That  land  thy  country,  and  that  spot  thy  home!"* 


'James  Montgomery. 


RARE  BOOK 
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